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Japan Times
31-05-2025
- Lifestyle
- Japan Times
Waves of umami: Awaji Island's culinary trove
Lifting the lid off a large ceramic pot with a flourish to reveal his aged shoyu, chef Nobuaki Fushiki tells me that with soy sauce, 'taste is born with time.' As the distinctive aroma of umami wafts into the air at Zenbo Seinei — a Zen wellness retreat designed by Shigeru Ban and located in the north of Awaji Island, Hyogo Prefecture — I'm instructed to place a dash of the rich brown liquid on a small plate. Most of the 20 members of my group, who hail from North America, Europe and Oceania, are joining a soy sauce tasting for the first time, inspired by their introduction to Japanese cuisine onboard the Silver Nova, one of the newest ships from luxury cruise line Silversea Cruises. The Silver Nova, which has a passenger capacity of 728 guests, made its debut voyage in the Asia-Pacific region last September. After sailing from Hokkaido, the ship undertook two voyages in Asia before heading southwards to Australia and New Zealand. It returned to Japan last month. The vessel held its inaugural Sea and Land Taste (SALT) — an immersive culinary program that lets guests experience a destination's cultural identity — in the Asia-Pacific region, which included SALT shore excursions in Japan for the first time. The Silver Nova is one of the newest vessels from Silversea Cruises. | SILVERSEA CRUISES Launched in Greece in 2021, SALT has proved immensely popular among passengers, prompting its expansion from the Mediterranean to voyages that include the Caribbean and South America, before its launch in Japan. Gourmet programs from cruises are, of course, not new. Most international cruises to Japan tend to feature onboard themed dinners featuring regional produce or work with local tour operators to bring passengers for short gourmet jaunts onshore. With the increasing demand globally for more immersive gourmet experiences in travel, a few cruises are now offering culinary tours that take on a more authentic vibe. Princess Cruises, for example, offers a visit to the Yamada miso and soy sauce brewery in Niigata Prefecture. Silversea's SALT program places a heightened emphasis on regional food and its ties to local identity, as well as hands-on experiences for its guests. Its onshore SALT Excursions are designed to offer insights into traditional cooking methods and local ingredients. For example, in Tasmania, passengers had the opportunity to forage local produce with renowned chef Analiese Gregory followed by a lunch with Tasmanian wines. In Napier, New Zealand, guests were taken to the award-winning Craggy Range winery for a private tour, wine-tasting and a five-course meal at the winery's restaurant. On Greece's Mykonos island, turophiles got the opportunity to make Kopanisti at cheese producer Mykonos Farmers. 'The nature of SALT is that it's constantly evolving,' says Adam Sachs, the program's director. 'We're passionate about food and drink and created SALT to share the best of food culture with like-minded guests hungry for truly authentic and memorable culinary experiences.' A staff member at Zenbo Seinei prepares condiments made from soy sauce for lunch. | KATHRYN WORTLEY From Osaka, where the Silver Nova is docked, our shore excursion takes us by bus to Awaji Island, the largest island of the Seto Inland Sea. It includes a fermentation workshop and an eight-course lunch led by Zenbo Seinei's Fushiki, as well as a farm-to-table experience. Bert Hernandez, president of Silversea, says the tour lets guests discover 'the soul of a place through its food and culture.' In this case, the focus is on learning about the building blocks of umami. Umami is a key flavor component in fermented food, which is central to Japanese cooking. For Fushiki, an expert in fermented cuisine, fermented foods not only enhance a meal's flavor and nutritional value but also play an integral role in Japan's culinary identity. At the fermentation workshop, we are introduced to the role of fermentation in a wide range of Japanese condiments, such as soy sauce, miso, mirin and rice vinegar, as well as items like nattō (fermented soybeans) and tsukemono (pickled vegetables). 'Some soy sauces in the supermarket today have been made within months, but my variety has taken me more than six years to brew,' says Fushiki, who uses traditional techniques such as using kōji mold and brine fermentation in the moromi (fermentation mash) to create a soy sauce with depth and complexity. Chef Nobuaki Fushiki of Zenbo Seinei is an expert in fermented cuisine. | KATHRYN WORTLEY Fushiki's six-year-aged soy sauce is served with his Taste of Awaji menu, which takes his team of chefs at Zenbo Seinei a week to prepare. Showcasing the best of the island's produce, from the mountains, sea and farmland, the menu is a fitting introduction to Japanese cuisine as Awaji is recognized in mythology as the birthplace of Japan, he says. According to Japan's earliest written works, the 'Kojiki' ('Records of Ancient Matters') and 'Nihon Shoki' ('The Chronicles of Japan'), the island was the first landmass to be formed during a ceremony carried out by the deities Izanagi and Izanami. Awaji is also known as one of only three miketsukuni (provinces of royal provisions) that supplied food to the imperial court in Kyoto during the Heian Period (794–1185). The island was chosen for its exceptional bounty of agricultural and marine products, which established it as a center for Japanese culinary excellence, a reputation that continues to this day. Fushiki's eight courses reflect this long and rich heritage. The Power of Awaji features Awaji beef fermented with maitake and kōji and finished on a charcoal grill, while 'The History of Japan' comprises Awaji swordfish served on a savory egg custard made with 10 kinds of local vegetables and dashi infused with bonito and kelp. The Ocean of Awaji is a nod to the rich variety of seafood found around the island's rocky and sandy shores. Small parcels of fresh spring green vegetables are wrapped in various kinds of fermented and dried fish alongside green tiger prawn boiled in local sea water. A fine bed of crushed pine nuts, white sesame and shio-kōji (salted kōji) embodies a beach, while an accompaniment of a dashi foam represents ocean waves. Chef Fushiki's The Ocean of Awaji dish is a homage to the rich seafood found around the island. | KATHRYN WORTLEY Great care is also taken to introduce drink pairings with complementary Japanese flavors. The Awaji beef is accompanied with a choice of a Japanese wine made from yamabudō, a wild Japanese grape variety known for its acidity and dark hue, or a mocktail featuring grapes and beetroot, milk-washed or clarified with lemon. The swordfish is served with tea made from herbs and dried shiso (perilla), a popular ingredient in Japanese cuisine, while the ocean course is paired with a tea made from Japanese butterbur, a perennial herb native to East Asia. The alcohol option for both fish dishes is sake, including Regulus, a brew from the award-winning Niigata Prefecture-based Abe Shuzo. After a dessert that includes sweet miso-marinated strawberries with sanshō pepper-infused cream and matcha served with mochi, I visit one of the sources of Zenbo Seinei's fruits and vegetables: Awaji Nature Lab & Resort. Located nearby, the 38,000-square-meter facility grows some 30 crops annually using circular farming, a sustainable practice that minimizes waste by treating byproducts as resources. Farmers make compost using leaf litter, rice bran and manure, changing the composition throughout the seasons to maximize the quality of the fruits and vegetables produced. Such a rare look into a sustainable agricultural practice offers guests a greater appreciation of Awaji's rich bounty. Silver Nova returns to Japan in March 2026, with SALT excursions to Zenbo Seinei and Aomori Prefecture; Silver Moon, another vessel, will arrive in Japan in October 2025, with SALT excursions to Zenbo Seinei and Fukuoka Prefecture.
The Guardian
24-05-2025
- General
- The Guardian
Meera Sodha's vegan recipe for soy, sake and sesame oil-braised aubergines
Here are two things about aubergines that you may not know: first, they are giant berries (!) and, second, they're roughly 92% water. The latter is important, because to get this mighty berry to reach its delicious potential, we need to dehydrate it (that is, remove as much water as possible and then hit it with lots of flavour). You could fry it, but, when the weather is lovely, I prefer hands-free cooking, which means roasting it. In this recipe, after roasting, I've used one of my favourite braising liquids – a mix of soy sauce, sake and sesame – to bring the aubergine back to life. Cooking sake can be bought in larger supermarkets and Chinese grocery stores (if you can't find it, use a nice drinking sake that will go nicely with the meal instead). Cook the rice before starting on the aubergines and cover it with a lid – it will stay warm for an hour. Prep 10 min Cook 35 min Serves 43 large or 4 medium aubergines (1.1kg)4 tbsp sunflower oil, or rapeseed oil5 tbsp light soy sauce¼ tsp fine sea salt6 tbsp cooking sake2 tsp light brown sugar2 tsp seasoned rice vinegar5 tbsp toasted sesame oil3cm x 3cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely grated4 garlic cloves, peeled and minced1 red bird's eye chilli, slit lengthways100g spring onions, halved across the belly, then cut lengthways into long, thin strips (and rinsed, if need be)Toasted sesame seeds, to finishCooked plain rice, to serve Heat the oven to 220C (200C fan)/425F/gas 7, and line two large trays with baking paper. Trim the tops off the aubergines, then cut each one into eight long wedges. Put these in a bowl with the sunflower oil, toss with your hands to coat, then lay the wedges side by side on the oven trays. Bake for 25 minutes, until soft. Meanwhile, make the braising liquid. In a small bowl, combine the soy sauce, a quarter-teaspoon of salt, the sake, brown sugar, rice vinegar and three tablespoons of toasted sesame oil. Put the remaining two tablespoons of sesame oil in a small frying pan on a medium to low heat and, once hot, add the ginger, garlic and chilli, and fry for two minutes, until pale golden. Add the spring onions, stir for a minute, then add the soy and sake mixture, take off the heat and mix well. When the aubergines have had their 25 minutes, transfer them to a smaller, lipped baking tray, laying the wedges on top of each other. Stir the braising liquid again, then pour it all over the aubergines and shake the tin to make sure all the aubergines are covered. Roast for a further 10 minutes, sprinkle with sesame seeds and serve with rice alongside.
Daily Mail
16-05-2025
- General
- Daily Mail
You've been storing your soy sauce all wrong! Experts reveal the common mistake that makes the condiment lose flavour
It's a popular condiment that most people will have in their kitchen. However, it turns out that countless UK households might be storing their soy sauce incorrectly. While many people are likely to keep their soy sauce in the cupboard with other kitchen essentials, an expert from Cookology has warned that this could spoil the sauce. The experts said, 'Condiments tend to reside in cupboards; however, most should be stored in the fridge once opened. 'Soy sauce is often [seen as] a cupboard staple. Surprisingly, it should be stored in the fridge to keep its flavour once opened.' The experts added that while soy sauce should belong in the fridge for flavour retention, mayonnaise and pesto should also be kept refrigerated, but for a different reason. 'Mayonnaise should be stored in the fridge after it's opened to stop bacterial growth, alongside opened pesto, pickles and jam, the experts said. Elsewhere, the experts weighed in on the debate of whether chocolate should be stored in the cupboard or fridge. The experts said, 'There's an argument to say that when you go shopping that chocolate is stored on the shelves, but there's more to it than that. 'Hot weather can make it difficult to store chocolate as there's a risk of it melting, however, storing it in the fridge can impact taste due to something called sugar bloom which is when the sugar recrystalises causing condensation on the surface. 'This in turn causes the sugar to absorb moisture, which then evaporates and can leave a dusty layer.' The outcome might not make refrigerated chocolate desirable for some, but ultimately, it's down to choice, they said. Andrew Wright, appliance expert from Cookology, added, 'There's conflicting advice around what you should and shouldn't store in a fridge available everywhere, but often it can come down to personal preference, especially with chocolate. 'However, the science shows that things that aren't stored in the fridge don't have as long a shelf-life as their countertop counterparts, and due to them often being perishable goods, [they] can be at risk of bacterial growth if not stored correctly. 'It's easy to say read the manufacturers instruction, but when it comes to produce that isn't necessarily labelled, such as fresh vegetables, then a fridge tends to be the best option to ensure longevity.' It comes after experts from W hich? revealed the best method to store a staple kitchen item - olive oil. While many people like to keep their olive oil next to the hob for easy access, the experts warned that this could make the liquid go rancid more quickly. Instead, they advise storing it in a cool, dark place. 'Keeping your olive oil in a cupboard away from light, heat and oxygen will help to prolong its life and prevent it going off too quickly,' Which? explained. Unlike wine, olive oil does not get better with age - so you shouldn't let it hang around for years. 'Once the bottle is opened it's exposed to oxygen, which causes the oil to deteriorate,' the experts added. 'For maximum taste and health benefits, use within a couple of months.' While Which? advises keeping your olive oil away from any heat sources, it's also best to avoid the fridge. 'Don't store it in the fridge,' the experts cautioned. 'You might have heard that keeping your olive oil in the fridge will help it last longer, but our experts don't recommend this. 'Keeping it in a cool, dark cupboard is best.' The experts also encourage you to pay close attention to the packaging. 'Our experts recommend avoiding oil sold in clear plastic bottles, which can negatively impact the flavour of the oil,' it explained. 'Ideally, opt for a tin or a dark-coloured glass bottle rather than a clear one. 'This helps to block out light and prevent the oil from deteriorating, both on the shop shelves and when you get it home.' Which?'s advice comes shortly after furious shoppers branded the cost of olive oil 'disgusting' after prices almost tripled in three years. In January 2021, the average price of a bottle of olive oil was £3.54. But in April 2024, research by MailOnline found the average is £9.49, an increase of more than 168 per cent. The most expensive bottle of olive oil is £22 for 500ml from Waitrose. It's almost double the price of a 750ml bottle of Whispering Angel Provence Rosé, which is just £11.49 from the same supermarket. The cheapest place to buy a 500ml bottle of olive oil is Aldi, where you can get your hands on one for just £4.59. Iceland had the cheapest bottle on average at £5.50, although it only offered a single type. Comparing all the cheapest 500ml bottles from each shop, the Co-Op came out with the most expensive, of £7.35.
