Latest news with #springcollection


Vogue
6 days ago
- Entertainment
- Vogue
By Malene Birger Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear Collection
Emilie Martinsen-Kønigsfeldt, new to the creative directorship of By Malene Birger, might say that she feels like everything is a 'work in progress,' but the brand's spring collection is a sophisticated and polished one. In part that's because she and the team are, for now, hewing closely to the soft minimalist codes put in place by Maja Dixdotter. Martinsen-Kønigsfeldt wanted this season's clothes to deliver 'holiday vibes,' which they do. There is a cooling airiness to a crisp striped shirting set styled with a bikini, and to an attractive all-white ensemble consisting of a dress with broderie anglaise at the neck and down its open sides, worn over pants with the same detail at the hem. For more dressed-up evenings, there are form-fitting popcorn dresses. Elsewhere, the team revisited a past technique of using a voluminous material of many threads to create movement. This look is offered in blue, a nod, perhaps, to Martinsen-Kønigsfeldt's personal preference for color. 'My vision is to make BMB easier, more wearable, with a little bit more fun to it, because that's me. My personality is that I feel like I'll probably never grow up,' she said. There is undeniable charm to a scallop-edged camel robe coat. And the creative director was excited about adding a print to the mix, however subtle. The decision to make changes at the company at a steady pace rather than a gallop was a wise one. 'I was a professional horse rider before, so I'm used to performing in front of a lot of people and winning, but also losing, falling off, and getting back on,' said Martinsen-Kønigsfeldt. 'I learn every day, but I am very optimistic about where we are going.'


Vogue
02-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Vogue
Nehera Spring 2026 Menswear Collection
'We are really shaken,' said Nehera CEO Ladislav Zdút of the political situation four months ago. While the world continues to careen towards an uncertain future, Zdút and team, embracing the hope inherent in spring, landed on the theme of 'playful rebellion' for the new men's and yet-to-be-released women's collections. The starting point for each was a 1966 Czech new wave movie called Daisies. 'The main characters realize that the world is going bad and society is corrupted by power and money, and they come to the conclusion that they have no obligation to behave properly either. They go on an anarchic spree… they stay all the day in their pajamas and they respond to the broken society, not with hopelessness and desperation, but with playful defiance,' summarized Zdút. 'The result is messy and unapologetic and the collection channels the same energy.' A scribble/collage print was the most literal interpretation of that disorder. The pajama theme referred back to the movie, but it also slid into bed with the sleepwear crossover trend that was one of the season's big stories. This was the brand's third men's collection, and the well-edited offering was succinct, desirable, and went a long way towards establishing that this line is about a youthful relaxed elegance, enlivened with unexpected details. For spring, pajamas were cut from a linen viscose, which gave them a sheen associated with activewear, and a slouchy double-breasted pantsuit was shown in a vibrant melon pink. Rather than cosign the tendency for skinny-legged looks, Nehera went all in for fullness; note the 'pantajupe' (look 10) and the generous proportioned unisex trousers with a button detail at the bottom that draws the fullness in and to the front to create a more structured fit.


Vogue
25-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Vogue
Mfpen Spring 2026 Menswear Collection
To be clear, Sigurd Bank was never into goth; he says he likes his music more 'energetic.' Yet when trawling through his youthful memories in advance of designing Mfpen's spring collection, the designer was drawn to the DIY aesthetic of mall goths of the '90s. Their post-grunge look, he observed, took the come-as-you-are vibe 'in a much more clowny [direction]—if you can say that—with the stripes and with the layering…. I think that style is quite amazing, how everything was somehow gender fluid with spikes and ripped clothing. Even though it was off and dark, there was a lot of playfulness, and so I imagined people who were like that grown up. Now they are dressing corporate, but then they try to bend the rules of corporate attire.' Disrupting the stuffiness and traditions of tailoring is Mfpen's mission, even as it marks its first decade in business with a finalist nod from the 2025 LVMH Prize. Spring 2026 finds Bank tweaking his successful formula. He does this by adding an unexpected touch of sex via lace hosiery popping out of the top of trousers, instead of boxers, and slashing leggings. The team also played more with his/her dichotomies. In look 19, a woman's shirt becomes a crop top on a male model. He wears this with a pair of carpenter pants that feature floral rivets, 'to make them more romantic.' (Silver floral jewelry complements this hardware.) The fit of the jacket in look 29 is created by taking in and creating a waist on a man-sized blazer using inverted darts. For women there's a sort-of wrap vest top (look 24) that opens in the back 'like a leaf,' and shorts and skirts with exposed linings. A cotton canvas topper with a wide placket iterated on firemen's gear. The 'wash' on khakis and denim was achieved by using a laser. From Bank's perspective it's a win-win situation, not only is the laser technique more responsible than using water (in addition, Mfpen collections are made using deadstock materials), but it allows him to achieve 'the used look that we like, because we don't want things to look too new.' To his credit, no one would ever think these were mall-bought pieces.


Vogue
25-06-2025
- Business
- Vogue
Tiger of Sweden Spring 2026 Menswear Collection
This spring collection is the second to be designed by Tiger of Sweden's internal team since Bryan Conway left the company. The brand MO seems to be to carry on the template the Burberry alum set, right down to choosing a Swedish creative as the starting point for the season: Cue Carl Nyrén a modernist architect who played with shapes and light; his work informed the palette—neutrals enlivened with blues and butter yellow—and an apple blossom print that referenced the fruit tree at his own home. The color harmonies and use of two-tones, as on a coat with an ivory body and rust lining, cuff, and pocket details were highlights here. Yet overall, the backstory seems more relevant internally than for the customer. The way the collection was photographed underlines the fact that product, rather than narrative, is the focus here. CMO Laura Frisk said on a call that the team was aiming to build upon Tiger of Sweden's 'heritage of precision tailoring, what we call Swedish tailoring—while embracing this broader idea of modern style.' What is Swedish tailoring? Functional and sharp, said the CMO, who offered as an example a straight-waisted jacket with a soft shoulder. If parsing tailoring in a Swedish style feels a bit slippery, as it does to this editor, another of the 120-year-old company's legacies is easier to grasp. The founders, Frisk explained, helped 'democratize the suit.' Elevating a work-to-weekend offering—for men and women—while maintaining an accessible price point, is the task at hand. Womenswear is a relatively new category for the brand that has yet to fully land. The most convincing looks were a tailored coat dress that can be worn open with a neat vest and pants, and a butter-yellow pantsuit with a nipped waist and pointed hem and lapels. A fitted black dress with a swish at the hem was a step forward while a draped turquoise slip dress felt like an outlier. One of the brand's signatures is two buttonholes on the lapel; translating that to two buttons near the neck on a men's nappa leather jacket showed nice attention to detail, but as a whole the collection felt generic.

Yahoo
22-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
Simon Cracker designers call latest Milan collection a "Big Evolution" for the label.
Simon Cracker designers, Filippo Biraghi and Simone Botte, say latest collection signifies a "big evolution" for the brand, which showcased its spring summer collection at Milan Fashion Week. (June 22)