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Sour power: how to use tamarind pods, pulp and paste
Sour power: how to use tamarind pods, pulp and paste

The Guardian

time5 days ago

  • Lifestyle
  • The Guardian

Sour power: how to use tamarind pods, pulp and paste

Can you please explain tamarind? Pods, pulp, paste, concentrate … I can't keep up with them all. David, via emailHow does Chaya Maya, development chef at Ottolenghi Test Kitchen, love tamarind? Let her count the ways: 'It's delicious, plus you can use it in sweet and savoury dishes, or to make lemonade, which we do in Mauritius; it has that sour sharpness that makes your mouth tingle. Actually, we need a tamarind movement.' Also in favour of the pucker fruit is Melissa Thompson, author of Motherland, namely for its 'lovely consistency' and ability to 'coat things nicely' while adding 'depth'. The Guardian's journalism is independent. We will earn a commission if you buy something through an affiliate link. Learn more. As David says, tamarind comes in various forms, but let's start at the very beginning with those peanut-shaped pods, which Thompson likes to snack on – just crack open the shell and eat the flesh. 'When I started cheffing, I wanted to do all the processes myself, so I'd buy a box of pods, peel them, soak them and mash them, which took so long!' Perhaps unsurprisingly, these days she prefers a compressed block, which also happens to be Maya's go-to: 'You have to hydrate it, then make a paste, but the blocks last longer, plus the manufacturer will have waited until the tamarind is ripe, so it's sweet and caramelly.' Perfect, then, for Thompson's barbecue sauce, which involves breaking off 50g pulp, steeping it in water and combining with apple molasses, but the possibilities are (almost) endless: 'A block is the most versatile option, but only for someone who gets through a lot.' Perhaps easier is a jar of paste, which is readily available in supermarkets, or tamarind concentrate. 'Depending on where it's from [predominantly Thailand and India], it tastes quite different, which can cause confusion,' says Feast's own Helen Goh, whose first solo book, Baking and the Meaning of Life, is out in September. 'I only ever use Thai or Malaysian tamarind, which is fruity, bright, smooth, liquidy and brown; Indian tamarind, by contrast, is darker, almost black, and far more concentrated and intense.' Add a spoonful for instant oomph in soups, stews, meat marinades or anywhere you might otherwise turn to citrus. 'It's not quite the same as a block, but it's still pretty delicious,' Maya says. 'Just watch out when seasoning, because the jarred stuff is often already salted.' She suggests adding lime juice to loosen, then flavouring with crushed garlic, chopped spring onion and fresh chilli, plus salt and sugar to taste. 'Roast some fish, pour on the tamarind mix and it's the best. If you've got crispy onions, pile them on top as well.' Thompson, meanwhile, would use her noodle: 'Make a dressing by watering down tamarind paste, add vinegar, honey, chopped shallot, garlic, lime juice and zest, and pour over a cold noodle salad.' Pineapple and tamarind are synonymous with Malaysia, where Goh grew up, and she says that duo are particularly welcome in an upside-down cake: 'Tamarind concentrate goes into the caramel,which is poured into a cake tin. Lay pineapple on top, pour in the cake batter, then bake – it melts into a gooey, syrupy thing that I love.' There's also tamarind extract, but Thompson would be inclined to leave that well alone: 'People tend to come unstuck with that because it is so concentrated.' That said, it works a dream in vegan fish sauce, which is yet more proof that sweet-sour tamarind really does make everything better. Got a culinary dilemma? Email feast@

Sour power: how to use tamarind pods, pulp and paste
Sour power: how to use tamarind pods, pulp and paste

The Guardian

time6 days ago

  • Lifestyle
  • The Guardian

Sour power: how to use tamarind pods, pulp and paste

Can you please explain tamarind? Pods, pulp, paste, concentrate … I can't keep up with them all. David, via emailHow does Chaya Maya, development chef at Ottolenghi Test Kitchen, love tamarind? Let her count the ways: 'It's delicious, plus you can use it in sweet and savoury dishes, or to make lemonade, which we do in Mauritius; it has that sour sharpness that makes your mouth tingle. Actually, we need a tamarind movement.' Also in favour of the pucker fruit is Melissa Thompson, author of Motherland, namely for its 'lovely consistency' and ability to 'coat things nicely' while adding 'depth'. The Guardian's journalism is independent. We will earn a commission if you buy something through an affiliate link. Learn more. As David says, tamarind comes in various forms, but let's start at the very beginning with those peanut-shaped pods, which Thompson likes to snack on – just crack open the shell and eat the flesh. 'When I started cheffing, I wanted to do all the processes myself, so I'd buy a box of pods, peel them, soak them and mash them, which took so long!' Perhaps unsurprisingly, these days she prefers a compressed block, which also happens to be Maya's go-to: 'You have to hydrate it, then make a paste, but the blocks last longer, plus the manufacturer will have waited until the tamarind is ripe, so it's sweet and caramelly.' Perfect, then, for Thompson's barbecue sauce, which involves breaking off 50g pulp, steeping it in water and combining with apple molasses, but the possibilities are (almost) endless: 'A block is the most versatile option, but only for someone who gets through a lot.' Perhaps easier is a jar of paste, which is readily available in supermarkets, or tamarind concentrate. 'Depending on where it's from [predominantly Thailand and India], it tastes quite different, which can cause confusion,' says Feast's own Helen Goh, whose first solo book, Baking and the Meaning of Life, is out in September. 'I only ever use Thai or Malaysian tamarind, which is fruity, bright, smooth, liquidy and brown; Indian tamarind, by contrast, is darker, almost black, and far more concentrated and intense.' Add a spoonful for instant oomph in soups, stews, meat marinades or anywhere you might otherwise turn to citrus. 'It's not quite the same as a block, but it's still pretty delicious,' Maya says. 'Just watch out when seasoning, because the jarred stuff is often already salted.' She suggests adding lime juice to loosen, then flavouring with crushed garlic, chopped spring onion and fresh chilli, plus salt and sugar to taste. 'Roast some fish, pour on the tamarind mix and it's the best. If you've got crispy onions, pile them on top as well.' Thompson, meanwhile, would use her noodle: 'Make a dressing by watering down tamarind paste, add vinegar, honey, chopped shallot, garlic, lime juice and zest, and pour over a cold noodle salad.' Pineapple and tamarind are synonymous with Malaysia, where Goh grew up, and she says that duo are particularly welcome in an upside-down cake: 'Tamarind concentrate goes into the caramel,which is poured into a cake tin. Lay pineapple on top, pour in the cake batter, then bake – it melts into a gooey, syrupy thing that I love.' There's also tamarind extract, but Thompson would be inclined to leave that well alone: 'People tend to come unstuck with that because it is so concentrated.' That said, it works a dream in vegan fish sauce, which is yet more proof that sweet-sour tamarind really does make everything better. Got a culinary dilemma? Email feast@

Cook This: 3 smoked and grilled recipes from Barbecue, including a juicy Florentine steak
Cook This: 3 smoked and grilled recipes from Barbecue, including a juicy Florentine steak

National Post

time25-07-2025

  • General
  • National Post

Cook This: 3 smoked and grilled recipes from Barbecue, including a juicy Florentine steak

Article content Step 2 Article content Preheat a grill to 500F (260C). Article content Step 3 Article content Bring the steak to room temperature. Rub 2 tablespoons of salt over the steak, then place it on the grill and cook for 7-10 minutes. Article content Step 4 Article content While the steak cooks, place the lemon halves cut-side down on the grill and cook for 2-3 minutes or until lightly charred. Article content Flip the steak, then cook for another 10 minutes, until the internal temperature reaches 125F (52C) for medium-rare. Set aside to rest for 5-10 minutes, then transfer to a serving dish. Sprinkle with 1 teaspoon of salt and the pepper, then drizzle with oil. Article content Article content Serves: 6-8 Article content For the ribs: 1/2 cup (100 g) brown sugar 3 tbsp berbere 1 1/2 tbsp salt 1 tbsp smoked paprika 1 tbsp garlic powder 1 tbsp onion powder 2 tsp dried thyme 4 racks baby back ribs or 2 racks St. Louis-style pork spareribs Article content For the sauce: 2 tbsp olive oil 1 onion, chopped 5 tomatoes, seeded and chopped, or 2 1/2 cups (1 lb 4 oz/560 g) canned chopped tomatoes 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 (2-inch/5-cm) piece of ginger, peeled and grated 1 serrano chili, seeded, deveined and finely chopped 1 tbsp tamarind paste 2 tsp berbere 1/4 tsp ground cumin 1/4 tsp coriander seeds, coarsely crushed 4 tbsp strong coffee 4 tbsp honey Article content Article content Step 1 Article content For the ribs: In a small bowl, combine all the ingredients except the ribs. Place the ribs on a baking sheet and sprinkle evenly with the rub, covering both sides of the ribs. Cover and refrigerate for 12 hours. Article content Step 2 Article content Make the sauce: Heat the oil in a large saucepan over high heat. Add the onion and sauté for 5 minutes, or until softened. Add the tomatoes, garlic and ginger. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium- low and simmer. Stir in the chili, tamarind paste, berbere, cumin and coriander seeds. Pour in the coffee and 2 cups (475 mL) of water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for 40 minutes. Stir in the honey, then simmer for another 10 minutes, until the sauce has thickened. Set aside to cool. Article content Step 3 Article content Preheat an oven to 225F (107C). Article content Step 4 Article content Place a wire rack in a roasting pan, then lay the ribs on top. Brush half of the sauce over the ribs, then pour 1 cup (240 mL) of water into the pan. Tightly cover with aluminum foil and roast for 5 hours, or until tender. Set aside to rest for 10 minutes. Article content Article content Step 5 Article content Article content Serves: 4 Article content For the marinated chicken: 1/2 cup (120 mL) soy sauce 4 tbsp dark soy sauce 4 tbsp oyster sauce 2 tbsp sesame oil 2 tbsp dried basil 1 tbsp garlic powder 1 tsp onion powder 1 tsp black pepper 24 whole chicken wings Article content For the hot sauce: 6 red bird's eye chilies 2 cloves garlic 2 tbsp grated fresh ginger 1 tsp sugar 1/4 tsp salt 1/2 cup (120 mL) hot chicken stock 1 tsp calamansi (Filipino lime) juice or lime juice Article content Step 1 Article content Marinate the chicken: In a large bowl, combine all the ingredients except the chicken. Add the chicken and mix well to coat. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Article content Step 2 Article content Make the hot sauce: In a food processor, combine the chilies, garlic, ginger, sugar and salt. Blend until it forms a paste, then transfer the paste to a medium bowl. Stir in the hot stock, then add the juice.

The Caribbean, Filtered Through One Chef's Imagination
The Caribbean, Filtered Through One Chef's Imagination

New York Times

time08-07-2025

  • Entertainment
  • New York Times

The Caribbean, Filtered Through One Chef's Imagination

The tamarind pod is dusky brown, light and rough to the touch. Press it with your thumbs or give it a twist. When it cracks, peel off the shell, pull out the veins and free the pulp — sticky as figs and more sweet than sour, because the fruit's so ripe. Still you'll pucker a little, working your tongue around the seeds. Presented at Kabawa before dessert, this might be the loveliest palate cleanser in town. It's all the lovelier for being a little messy, in keeping with the restaurant's ethos: fine dining, but without the pomp. Kabawa opened in late March in the space once home to the half-bonkers, half-sublime Momofuku Ko, on a dead-end alley off East First Street named, as if with a shrug, Extra Place. In 1977, the address was sufficiently down-and-out to be the backdrop for a Ramones album cover; if you sneaked out the back of the punk club CBGB, this was where you wound up. The chef, Paul Carmichael, grew up in Barbados and worked his way through New York City kitchens before taking the lead at Momofuku Seiobo in Sydney, Australia, the farthest-flung outpost of the Momofuku empire. It closed in 2021 — luckily for New Yorkers, for now Mr. Carmichael's superlative cooking and ambitious vision of Caribbean cuisine have been returned to us. Want all of The Times? Subscribe.

Rojak
Rojak

Telegraph

time20-05-2025

  • Lifestyle
  • Telegraph

Rojak

A word that translates as 'mixture' in Malay, rojak is so much more than just a salad; it's a medley of tastes and textures, of sweet fruits and salty shrimp. It's divine. Growing up, rojak was a refreshing, cooling treat that we would eagerly await. Requires cooling time. Overview Prep time 15 mins Cook time 20 mins Serves 3 to 4 Ingredients For the dressing 3 tbsp tamarind paste 3 tbsp gula melaka palm sugar (or soft dark brown sugar) 1 tbsp light soy sauce, or to taste 1 tbsp traditional Malaysian cooking caramel (available to order online, or use 1 tbsp kecap manis with 1 tbsp palm sugar) 1 small red chilli, finely chopped 1 red bird's eye chilli, finely chopped 1 tsp belacan (fermented shrimp paste), toasted (optional), alternatively miso or fermented bean paste work well too 1 tsp lime juice, or to taste For the salad 1 small celeriac, peeled 1 cucumber, peeled and deseeded 1 ripe mango, peeled and stoned 1 pineapple, peeled and cored 200g firm tofu, cubed and fried 2 tbsp salted roasted peanuts, chopped, to serve Method Step First, make the dressing. Combine 3 tbsp tamarind paste, 3 tbsp gula melaka palm sugar (or soft dark brown sugar), 1 tbsp light soy sauce and 1 tbsp traditional Malaysian cooking caramel in a small saucepan over a low heat. Cook, stirring continuously, until all the sugar crystals have dissolved, about 5 minutes. Step Mix through 1 small red chilli and 1 red bird's eye chilli, both finely chopped, then stir in 1 tsp toasted belacan, if using. Step Continue to heat, stirring continuously, until the dressing thickens to a sticky consistency. Step Remove the pan from the heat and add 1 tsp lime juice. Taste and adjust the balance of flavours with more soy sauce and lime juice as needed. Leave the dressing to cool.

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