5 days ago
The Australian Wine Club: Classic cabernet sauvignon from Claymore, Hungerford Hill, Allinda and Byron & Harold
If there's one thing Carissa Major has learnt in a lifelong career in wine, it's the need to seize the moment when an opportunity – or a life-threatening challenge – pops into view.
You make certain wines and become known for it, you build a reputation for a particular style, but then the chance to do something quite different comes along – or a piece of personal news you really weren't expecting (more on that shortly).
Either way, you go for it and hope that fortune ends up favouring your side of the equation.
It's why almost a decade ago Carissa walked into the office of Claymore Wines owner Anura Nitchingham – her boss now for almost 20 years – and told him they just had to buy a couple of tonnes of top-notch sangiovese and tempranillo grapes she had come across and branch out into completely different styles. 'It was meant to be a one-off,' Carissa says, laughing.
Except she did the same thing when a similarly small batch of reserve cabernet sauvignon grapes became available unexpectedly.
That was also meant to be a single iteration but has become Claymore's Black Magic Woman Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon that's made in years when the fruit practically demands it.
The 2022 iteration (with a usual retail price of $50) is part of this week's special offer case from The Australian Wine Club, a mix of cabernets spanning Australia from coast to coast – including the gold medal-winning 2022 Hungerford Hill Hilltops Cabernet Malbec.
Add to that the 95-point rated Allinda Yarra Valley Cabernet blend and the 2021 Byron & Harold Rags to Riches Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon, and the temptation to seize this particular opportunity is obvious.
Claymore winemaker Carissa Major (centre) with friends in Clare Valley
'Often it's about a parcel of wine almost telling us we have to make a wine to reflect the beauty of the site,' Carissa tells us. 'With the cabernet now, it's really small batch, we're talking about 2500 to maximum 3500 litres.
'It has to have that extra depth of flavour that we're chasing in the vine, an extra level of richness and complexity in that primary fruit profile.'
You can hear her pride in what those cabernet sauvignon grapes have come to produce.
There's pride also when she talks about the unexpected business relationship she helped Nitchingham build with his beloved Liverpool FC, thanks to a chance meeting arranged by an Adelaide United fan.
Unexpected situations arise, in other words, and you have to pivot – even when things are not positive.
Like the phone call Carissa got in 2022 to receive a diagnosis of breast cancer.
Her ultimate response was gratitude – for the advances made in our understanding of and treatment for that disease.
'My former mother-in-law, who I was very close to, ended up passing away from exactly the same breast cancer I had but 20 years earlier, and her outcomes were so poor compared to what mine were because of the funding of research in that space.'
The irony is that Carissa had helped fundraise for breast cancer research through Claymore before discovering she had it.
'The incidence of re-occurrence in my mother in law's day were so high, I watched the anxiety that brought on,' she says.
'I've only had one review, my next is in October. But I'm like, if it's negative news I know what we need to do, I'll just jump back on the horse and we go again.
'And if I can use my little platform here or my personal connections to put a bit of extra money in those (research) coffers, I will absolutely do it.'
Claymore Wines Black Magic Woman Clare Valley Reserve Cabernet 2022
The dark ruby that glints in the glass is a perfect primer for the mulberry, plum and blackcurrant that dominate the nose along with hints of chocolate and aniseed. From the first sip it's imbued with Clare Valley elegance, with more mulberry, cassis and chocolate in a velvety-soft palate and lingering finish. 14.5 per cent alc, RRP $50 a bottle.
SPECIALS $41.99 in any dozen, $21.99 in our cabernet sauvignon dozen.
Hungerford Hill Hilltops Cabernet Malbec 2022
What a pairing this is, delivering an intense nose full of menthol freshness, capsicum and bay leaf, some blackcurrant and blackberry, even a sprinkle of spice. The palate is soft, juicy and fruity with blueberry, cassis and vanilla notes amid a vibrant acidity. With structure from the cabernet and a roundedness from the malbec, there's even a touch of dark chocolate. 93 points, James Halliday. 13.5 per cent alc, RRP $50 a bottle.
SPECIALS $39.99 in any dozen, $21.99 in our cabernet sauvignon dozen.
Allinda Yarra Valley Cabernets 2018
The ruby hue and the hints of dried fruit on the nose underline the years this has spent maturing – certainly there's much to savour on the nose immediately, with blackberry, chocolate, leather and pencil shavings coming through. More blackcurrant on the palate segues to a juicy acidity, splashed with sour cherry, and on to a long, fresh finish. 95 points, Wine Orbit. 13 per cent alc, RRP $30 a bottle.
SPECIALS $24.99 in any dozen, $21.99 in our cabernet sauvignon dozen.
Byron & Harold Rags to Riches Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2021
This is why these cases are intriguing – a more savoury profile than the others, with herby, earthy notes and spice as well as red and black fruits. The palate delivers beautiful fruit and a medium weight with soft tannins, perfectly bookended with a final savoury edge of leather and pan juices in a long finish. 92 points, Wine Orbit. 13.8 per cent alc, RRP $32 a bottle.
SPECIALS $25.99 in any dozen, $21.99 in our cabernet sauvignon dozen.
CABERNET SAUVIGNON DOZEN Three bottles of each wine above for $21.99 a bottle. SAVE $222.
Order online or phone 1300 765 359 Monday to Friday, 9am to 5pm AEST and quote 'ACCJ'. Deals are available only while stocks last. The Australian Wine Club is a commercial partnership with Laithwaites Wine, LIQP770016550.
