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Forbes
6 days ago
- General
- Forbes
Whiskey Of The Week: I.W. Harper 34 Year Old Bourbon
You won't find many bourbons aged 20 years or longer. 25-year-old bourbons are almost unheard of. And 30-plus year old bourbons are vanishingly rare. The climate in Kentucky, where the vast majority of bourbon is made, is simply not conducive to aging whiskey that long. Unlike Scotland, which basically has cold and crappy weather year-round (and plenty of long-aged whiskies to show for it), Kentucky can have blazingly hot summers and icy winters. Those seasonal variations accelerate barrel aging, pushing the liquid into the wood and pulling it back out. The fact that bourbon must be aged in new charred American oak (Scotch is typically aged in previously used barrels) also means it gets more of the tannins that, when whiskey ages too long, wind up imparting a lot of heat and astringency to the finished product. And yet... many a booze collector mistakenly assumes that older is always better, and is willing to pay a steeper price for a higher number next to the age statement. Which, in general, makes collecting and flipping extra-aged whiskeys more pleasant than drinking them. I still remember the first time I tasted a 30-plus year old bourbon, more than a decade ago. A friend in the industry had a small flask of it and offered me a taste. It was, the saying goes, like licking an oak stave — an oak stave coated with black pepper, no less. 'Yeah, it's pretty terrible,' he admitted. That very bourbon now sells for tens of thousands of dollars on the secondary market, and I wonder if a single one of the (very few) bottles produced has ever been opened and tasted. Say what you will about a bourbon this old, the bottle is gorgeous. Photo courtesy of Diageo When I was recently offered a taste of a 34-year-old I.W. Harper bourbon, distilled in 1989, I didn't say no, but I certainly didn't have high expectations. My skepticism grew when I heard the eleven bottles' worth of whiskey produced were harvested from four damn near completely evaporated barrels. They may have been selected and deemed worthy of bottling by Nicole Austin, longtime distiller/distillery manager and currently Director of American Whiskey Development and Capabilities (DAWDAC for short) for spirits behemoth (and I.W. Harper's parent company) Diageo. But my respect for her didn't change my opinion. I merely wanted to try it for the same reason George Mallory wanted to climb Mount Everest — because it was there. Much to my surprise, I.W. Harper 34 Year Old Bourbon is... drinkable. Not amazing, but better than it has any right to be, given its circumstances. Oaky as hell, yes, but not chewing-tree-bark oaky. I got a ton of menthol and gentian on the palate; my host for the tasting, Zev Glesta of Sotheby's (more on them shortly), tasted 'horseradish and overripe cantaloupe.' At 63.1% ABV, this is no pinky-in-the-air refined sipper — it's more a hold-onto-your-hat, try-to-enjoy-the-ride bourbon. But like I said, it's not bad. And after I left a couple of sips' worth in my glass for an hour or so, it opened up quite a bit. The gentian notes I originally got were more like root beer, and the alcohol's bite was not quite as sharp. The bourbon's provenance is a bit of a mystery — it was aged at the famed Stitzel-Weller distillery, which ceased operations in the early 1990s, but it was not distilled there. Educated guessers think it may be from the Bernheim distillery, but that hasn't been confirmed or denied. The five bottles for sale (I don't know what will become of the other six) were auctioned by Sotheby's — all fetched in excess of $10,000, well above the pre-auction estimates. The project is a collaboration with famed actor/director/philanthropist Colman Domingo, with proceeds going to Native Son, described by Sotheby's as 'a platform dedicated to empowering Black queer excellence through visibility, leadership development and community-building initiatives.' The package, which includes bespoke labels, a silk scarf, and a paper ruff that goes around the neck of the bottle, explores the theme of Black dandyism and is unequivocally stunning. In the end, a 34-year-old bourbon is a curiosity more than a serious sipper. But it's for charity — and for bragging rights, too. Owning one of 11 of damn near anything is pretty cool. Who knows if any of the proud owners of a bottle will ever actually open theirs. But that's what I'm here for — I tasted it so they don't have to. And I'm always happy to provide that sort of assistance.
Forbes
09-07-2025
- Business
- Forbes
Designing Luxury Whisky: Inside Macallan's Five-Year Creative Process
How long do you think it takes to redesign the world's most iconic whisky range? For Macallan, the answer was seven years. Mark Littler LTD How long does it take to create the world's most luxurious spirit? Macallan's heritage dates back over two hundred years. It is the world's most collected whisky by both value, and is part of Scotland's most valuable exports, which means there is a lot resting on each bottle of Macallan whisky that leaves the bottling plant. Personally, I love the new core range redesign. But rebranding your core range and releasing ultra-premium bottles like the £1,100 Time:Space Mastery and the £800 Art is the Flower limited edition would be a bold move even in the best of times. Right now, it feels particularly risky. Many whisky drinkers are facing tighter budgets, secondary market prices have softened, and even Macallan's parent company, Edrington, reported a 10% slump in core revenue to £912 million in the year to March 2025. Released in late 2024 with a £1,100 price tag, Macallan's Time:Space Mastery pushed the boundaries of whisky as luxury art, timed just as the market began to cool. Macallan Yet despite the headwinds, Macallan continues to invest in bold, long-term creative work. I sat down with Jaume Ferràs, Macallan's Global Creative Director, to find out more about the first luxury whisky, Macallan's creative process, and why the best designers might not be designers at all. I have been part of the whiskey industry for over 10 years now. I've lost count of the number of times I have said to a customer who has been waiting over six months for a cask to be moved from Islay, 'nothing moves quickly in whisky.' I've said it, I understand it, and yet we become blind to it too. Macallan x Nike? Creative Director Jaume Ferràs is a true sneakerhead and told me in our interview, 'If you know someone at Nike who wants to work with Macallan let me know!' Macallan All luxury markets are slow and involved. When you add maturation periods of the whiskey itself on top of the layers of influence and teams of designers, cask masters, marketers—everything takes a long time. Macallan's early stories in the 1980s may have centered around small teams finding fifty and sixty year old casks of whisky tucked away at the back of a warehouse and deciding to release them. But for Ferràs and his team the stories are different ones. 'We work at least five years ahead,' Ferràs said to me over a zoom call earlier this month. 'Product development, cask management, and creative direction all operate on a long-term roadmap.' The redesign of the core range dates back longer than that even. Triggered by the new distillery and the way Ferràs explains it, it is almost like the distillery and the branding weren't speaking the same language, and the redesign aims to address that. Design legend David Carson brought his signature style to Macallan's new core range, crafting bold visuals and ad campaigns rooted in the brand's heritage. Macallan 'The conversation about our identity really started around seven years ago, triggered by the opening of the new distillery in 2018. We realized that while the distillery had become a permanent, highly visible part of the landscape, the brand identity wasn't reflecting that. At the same time, we weren't fully communicating our commitment to Sherry cask maturation, or the fact that we were approaching 200 years of history. Those three factors combined made us step back and reassess the identity of the brand.' Creating Worlds Of Whisky The result of seven years of work is a striking core range. It also speaks the same design language as the travel retail set and of the flowing loops of the distillery itself. It also strongly features the rich red that has been part of Macallan's heritage language since those early days. I wondered if working for a brand as large as Macallan, defined as it is by its history and years of planning, could be frustrating. But Ferràs said no, that there is 'surprising freedom' at Macallan. 'The Macallan is very good at creating worlds. Each collection—Time & Space, Harmony, Home—has its own internal story and ecosystem,' said Ferràs. 'We don't want a new whisky that's just slightly different—we want it to be part of a whole new world.' That does give freedom. With each release designed to be more than just a whisky; it is a story. And one that has been crafted to be told long after the bottle itself is empty. 'The bottle sits on the table long after the whisky is poured—it's the design that continues the conversation.' This then is a train of thought that speaks to my sensibilities too. There are few people in the world who would sit and dissect a painting by discussing the shades of pigment within each brush stroke, instead we sit and we see the stories told by paintings, and in turn the stories of ourselves that they echo. This grounds the experience in memory, making it something we turn back to. So too, we don't remember the precise flavours within each sip of whisky. But we do remember the place we drank it, who we were with , the reason it was opened, the weight of a bottle as we poured, or the drip of 'wasted' spirit we laughed with a friend over. These are the parts of the story that are stored in our mind alongside our love of a drink. The Genius of Outsiders Storytelling through collaboration is another big thing in whisky at the moment. It is everywhere you look, and at times it can feel like a gimmick. But Ferras explains that it is anything but. 'We want to work with designers who are not designers. Actual bottle designers bring the physics with them—gravity, bottling lines, pouring mechanisms. But sometimes that limits creativity before it starts. That's where naive creativity comes in… and that naivety can become a breakthrough. 'Bentley helped us design Horizon—a horizontal bottle. A traditional designer would never have proposed that.' Jaume Ferràs, Macallan's Global Creative Director This I understand completely. However, I also feel it is where the disconnect comes in. From a design perspective it makes sense; good design is supposed to push boundaries. From a luxury product side, it is no different than having a $20,000 designer handbag too small to hold your keys or phone, or a $45,000 mechanical watch that loses 2 seconds a day if you don't remember to wind it properly. Whisky is not quite either of these things. Not yet. For now it is still a drink, a luxurious drink, but without the complete trappings of haute couture luxury that mean you can charge anything and do anything. Luxury whisky is still a young product. Drinkers and fans of Macallan still remember when it was on an optic, and those consumers are still clinging to that old image. The timing of the updates has not helped. Of course, Macallan could not help when they turned 200, anymore than they could help the global changes that have seen secondary market demand plummet. But perhaps this is a good thing, perhaps it will bring the space to embrace the new designs and the ethos that it encapsulates. A Dream Collab A pair of 1985 Air Jordan 1 Chicagos, Ferràs's dream sneaker, were recently estimated at $18,000–$24,000 at Sotheby's. Sotheby's Finally I couldn't help but ask who Ferras himself as a designer would love to work with 'I love sneaker design. My dream would be a collaboration with Nike—Air Jordan 1985 Chicagos are my all-time favourite.' 'If you know someone at Nike who wants to work with Macallan, let me know!' Now that would be a collaboration I'd love to see!
Forbes
17-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Forbes
Best Tennessee Whiskey Named By SF World Spirits Competition
The three finalists for World's Best Tennessee Whiskey at the 2025 SFWSC Three Tennessee whiskeys are finalists in their category at the 2025 San Francisco World Spirits Competition. The SFWSC is the world's largest and most prestigious judging of American whiskey. Below are brief backgrounds and tasting notes on the finalists. The Top Shelf 2025 Awards Gala, a highly anticipated whiskey industry event, will announce the winner on November 9 at Hotel Nikko in San Francisco. Roaming Man is a premium, small-batch, no-age-statement whiskey produced by Sugarlands Distilling Company in Gatlinburg, Tennessee. It follows the traditional Lincoln County Process of filtering the whiskey through maple wood charcoal. Unlike mass-market Tennessee whiskey, Roaming Man is bottled as a cask-strength, limited-edition release, typically between 110 and 120 proof, offering a unique and intriguing twist on the classic Tennessee whiskey. Pronounced aromas of charred oak, caramelized banana, vanilla bean, and fresh-baked cornbread are featured on the nose. It's robust and creamy on the palate, showcasing intense molasses, honeycomb, toasted almonds, toffee, and cold smoke flavors, underscored by a subtle peppery spice. The finish is long and sweet, with lingering oak, dark caramel, vanilla, and smoky notes. Roaming Man is a powerful, full-bodied Tennessee whiskey, offering a more concentrated and flavorful expression of the style. The SFWSC Judging Panel described the whiskey as expressing 'aromas of vanilla and tobacco leaves, along with maple candy and corn pudding. The palate features similar flavors and red Thai chili, kumquat, and molasses notes. The finish is long, slightly sweet, with lingering pepper and oak wood notes.' Uncle Nearest 1856 Premium Aged Whiskey pays tribute to Nathan "Nearest" Green, the formerly enslaved master distiller who taught Jack Daniel the art of whiskey-making. This whiskey, sourced, blended, and bottled in Tennessee, with a future goal of transitioning entirely to estate-distilled whiskey, is a testament to Tennessee's rich whiskey heritage. The source of the whiskey has not been disclosed, but it has long been rumored to be George Dickel. 1856 is a premium offering, bottled at 100 proof and typically aged around 8 years. It's rich and aromatic on the nose, featuring ripe apples, brown sugar, and cinnamon notes surrounded by the cold charcoal smoke of the Lincoln County Process. 1856 is smooth and flavorful on the palate, showcasing caramel cream, toasted oak, nutmeg, and baked apricot flavors, around a well-integrated, structured oak backbone. The finish is long, slightly smoky, sweet, and spicy, with lingering vanilla bean, clove, and brown butter notes. Uncle Nearest 1856 is an elegant, meditative whiskey, honoring Tennessee heritage, offering a smooth, flavorful dram. The SFWSC Judging Panel described the whiskey as featuring 'peppery aromas with caramel and vanilla notes, some anise/licorice, and maple candy. It's robust on the palate, with caramel, toasted oak, candied citrus, and rawhide leather notes. The finish is long and sweet with lingering spice, vanilla, and oak wood notes.' A glass of Tennessee whiskey on ice Old Dominick Bonded Tennessee Whiskey, produced at the Old Dominick Distillery in Memphis, Tennessee, is a historic brand reborn in 2017 after nearly a century's dormancy. The whiskey, part of the distillery's Bottled-in-Bond series, meets the bottled-in-bond standards: distilled at a single distillery, in a single season, aged at least four years, and bottled at precisely 100 proof. Old Dominick uses a high-rye mash bill and the traditional Tennessee charcoal filtration process, ensuring a robust and flavorful whiskey. The nose opens with aromas of rye toast, caramel, cinnamon, clove, charred oak, and a hint of baked pear. The palate presents nuanced layers of caramelized sugar, spiced baked pear, cracked black pepper, roasted nuts, and rye spices. The rye spice notes complement the Tennessee whiskey sweetness, creating a sweet and spicy character. The finish is medium-long and sweet, with lingering notes of oak, vanilla, and a subtle herbal note. Old Dominick Bonded is a robust, flavorful Tennessee whiskey, balancing sweetness and spice. The SFWSC Judging Panel described the whiskey as featuring 'aromas of milk chocolate, rye bread toast, cinnamon, and caramel. The palate is sweet and spicy, with baked apple and pear, roasted nuts, cinnamon, clove, and a hint of nutmeg. The finish is long, sweet, and spicy with lingering notes of vanilla and caramel.' These three Tennessee whiskeys from the 2025 SFWSC are all over proof, presenting a more intensely flavored, concentrated version of the typical Tennessee whiskey profile. The results are exceptionally intense, smooth, flavorful, easy-drinking whiskeys, expanding Tennessee whiskey's aroma and flavor profile. These expressions are outstanding and well worth trying if you are a fan of Tennessee whiskey.
Forbes
10-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Forbes
The World's Best Single Barrel Bourbon, According To The SF World Spirits Competition
The Finalists in the Single Barrel Bourbon Category from the 2025 SFWSC Seven whiskeys are finalists in the Single-Barrel Bourbon section of the 2025 San Francisco World Spirits Competition. Five expressions are in the Up To 10 Years category, and two are in the 11 Years and Older category. Below are brief backgrounds and tasting notes on the finalists. The Top Shelf 2025 Awards Gala, a highly anticipated whiskey industry event, will announce the winner on November 9 at Hotel Nikko in San Francisco. This bourbon is a premium offering from Garrison Brothers Distillery in Hye, Texas — one of the pioneers of authentic Texas bourbon. Each barrel is hand-selected for full-strength bottling, typically between 120–140 proof. The extreme Texas heat and marked diurnal and seasonal temperature variations accelerate maturation, producing an intensely flavorful bourbon even at relatively younger ages. The whiskey is powerful on the nose, with bold aromas of dark brown sugar, mesquite smoke, saddle leather, and vanilla bean. The palate is robust and textured, featuring rich waves of toffee, black cherry, burnt orange peel, and seasoned oak. The finish is long, powerful, and lingering with charred caramel, spice, and smoky warmth. This powerhouse bourbon is massive, intense, and packed with Texas terroir. The SFWSC Judging panel described the whiskey as expressing 'explosive aromas of brown sugar/molasses, caramel, leather, and vanilla on the nose. The bourbon is oily and viscous, with a noticeable palate weight showcasing orange zest, cherry syrup, caramel, vanilla, and seasoned oak. The finish is long, fiery, and powerful.' Blackout Bourbon is a boutique bottling project focused on finding rare, full-proof single barrels, typically sourced from Kentucky or Indiana distilleries. Each barrel is selected for its boldness and complexity, usually bottled unfiltered and cask strength. On the nose, Blackout Bourbon offers deep aromas of toasted marshmallow, dark chocolate, molasses, and smoky oak. The palate is thick and mouth-coating, bringing flavors of caramelized sugar, roasted peanuts, espresso, and a burst of peppery spice. The finish is bold and lengthy, trailing off with bittersweet cocoa and warm spice. Blackout Bourbon lives up to its name — a whiskey of raw, unfiltered strength that pulls no punches. The SFWSC Judging Panel described the whiskey as 'powerful and intense on the nose and palate, featuring a candied sweetness, bittersweet chocolate, coffee, roasted nuts, and a persistent smoky note. The finish is long and flavorful, with lingering dark chocolate and spicy notes.' Safai is a private label bourbon from Safai Coffee Company in Louisville, Kentucky. Their 8-year-old bourbon is sourced from top Kentucky stocks and bottled as a single barrel selection, typically around 110–115 proof. It features vanilla bean, subtle leather, honeyed oak, and sweet corn pudding on the nose. The palate is smooth and flavorful, featuring butterscotch, caramel apple, roasted almonds, and cinnamon spice notes. The finish is medium-long and sweet, with lingering baking spice and a touch of aged oak. Safai's bourbon is a polished, approachable single barrel, ideal for those who appreciate classic Kentucky flavor. The SFWSC described the whiskey as featuring 'classic Kentucky bourbon aromas express a balanced combination of caramel, vanilla, orchard fruit, and seasoned oak that is smooth and creamy on the palate with a long, sweet finish.' This Hirsch limited-release single-barrel bourbon emphasizes an extra aging step in a second new charred oak barrel to deepen the flavor profile. Typically bottled at cask strength, varying between 120–125 proof, this expression begins with traditional bourbon maturation before re-barreling for additional richness. The nose is complex and aromatic, brimming with notes of dark caramel, toasted coconut, baking spices, and heavy oak. It is rich and mouth-filling on the palate, offering spiced toffee, dark chocolate, cinnamon bark, and a surge of charred vanilla. The finish is bold, lengthy, and structured, with lingering smoky oak and hints of leather. Hirsch Double Oak delivers a double hit of wood influence while maintaining balance and depth. The SFWSC Judging Panel described the whiskey as expressing 'aromas of plums, seasoned oak, mineral water, and lemon zest. It's spicy on the palate, featuring caramel, vanilla, and a pronounced cinnamon red hots flavor. The finish is long with lingering vanilla and cinnamon notes.' This bourbon is an incredibly unique expression made entirely from Jimmy Red corn, a rare heirloom variety revived by High Wire in Charleston, South Carolina. The Jimmy Red corn, known for its rich and sweet flavor profile, is the sole ingredient in this bourbon, bottled as a single barrel bourbon and typically landing around 110 proof, showcasing the true character of this rare corn. The nose is unusually rich and earthy, with notes of sweet cornbread, maple syrup, vanilla custard, and roasted nuts. It is velvety and flavorful on the palate, displaying waves of honeycomb, pecan pie, toasted grain, and herbal spice. The finish is smooth, warming, and carries hints of caramelized sugars and seasoned oak. Jimmy Red is a singular bourbon experience — earthy, sweet, and deeply tied to its agricultural roots. The SFWSC Judging Panel described the whiskey as exhibiting 'aromas of black cherries, oak, and cinnamon oatmeal. The palate features cherry syrup with crème de cassis, black pepper, oak, and vanilla. The finish is medium length with pronounced and lingering black cherry notes.' The finalists in the Single Barrel Bourbon Category from the 2025 SFWSC This is a scarce single-barrel offering from the revived O.K.I. label, once famous for its beautifully aged MGP stock inventory. This 16-year-old Kentucky bourbon is sourced from high-end Kentucky warehouses and is typically bottled between 110–115 proof. The nose is aromatic, featuring powerful aromas of aged oak, burnt caramel, dried cherries, and pipe tobacco. The palate is deep, rich, contemplative, layered with blackstrap molasses, old leather, roasted hazelnuts, and bittersweet dark chocolate flavors. The finish is incredibly long and nuanced, with lingering aged oak, spice, and espresso notes. This O.K.I. 16 Year Single Barrel is a showstopper — a celebration of well-aged bourbon at its peak maturity. The SFWSC described the whiskey as featuring 'aromas of fruit and honey intertwined with caramel and vanilla notes. The bourbon is rich and robust on the palate with notes of molasses, roasted hazelnuts, vanilla, caramel, and dried cherries. The finish is long and slightly sweet, with lingering spice and oak notes.' This bourbon is a standout ultra-aged single-barrel release from Augusta Distillery in Kentucky. Augusta's bourbons have been perennial medalists in spirit competitions. Named after Revolutionary War hero Simon Buckner, this bourbon is bottled at barrel strength, often exceeding 120 proof, from meticulously selected barrels. The nose is vibrant, offering a bouquet of dark maple syrup, worn leather, rich vanilla bean, and old oak. The palate is lush and luxurious, bursting with deep flavors of toffee, fig jam, spiced plum, dark roasted coffee, and layers of charred wood. The finish is extraordinarily long, evolving from sweet to smoky to slightly dry, with lingering cocoa powder and aged wood notes. Buckner's 15-Year Single Barrel is a profound, complex whiskey — a classic example of bourbon reaching a noble old age with grace and strength. The SFWSC Judging Panel described the bourbon as expressing 'powerful aromas of maple candy, dried cherry, dried orchard, and stone fruit. The palate is robust with a pronounced mouth weight and satiny texture, featuring caramel, prune, coffee, fig jam, and charred wood. The finish is long, with lingering dried fruit, chocolate, and seasoned oak notes.' The 2025 SFWSC showcased seven outstanding single-barrel bourbons from all over the US. They represent a broad array of styles and proofs reflecting a variety of terroirs and maturation environments. They underscore the wide range of aroma and flavorful profiles that characterize single-barrel bourbons and showcase how barrel selection and blending allow specialty bottlers to release exceptional expressions. These seven expressions are among the world's best single-barrel bourbons. All are worth trying.
