Latest news with #GlennMartens
Vogue
14-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Vogue
Drawing Conclusions: Illustrators Jacky Marshall and Blue Farrier Spill the Ink on the Couture Collections
Blue Farrier and Jacky Marshall drawing the couture for Vogue Runway. At the couture, fashion's ultimate—and most expensive—expression, haute is usually synonymous with perfection, and for the most part that remained true this season. On offer were a multitude of perfectly pretty gowns and seriously sexy embellished pieces destined to dazzle. These reflected a world cushioned from care and chaos, though other designers like Glenn Martens at Maison Margiela and Viktor Hosting and Rolf Snoeren didn't shy away from, while still striving for beauty. Personality is often to be found in imperfection and in gesture. The latter defines the work of fashion illustrators Jacky Marshall and Blue Farrier, who drew the couture, in ink, pastel, and pen for Vogue Runway. Both deeply embedded in the fashion system, they share their informed view on the season below. For starters, what do you make of this designer round-robin—what does it say about the state of things? Blue Farrier: The musical chairs of creative directors, all hugely talented, doesn't seem to be that surprising to me, and reflective of the markets…. Talking from a woman's perspective, I would have liked to have seen more of a championing of women creative directors, more diversity, as well seeing more move up from younger designers. I hope in the future years this will be more the case. Jacky Marshall: I find it hard to keep track of who is moving where. A fashion merry-go-round of creative directors. I'm very interested to see the new collections coming up. What debuts are you most excited about and why? BF: I'm genuinely excited about the new hiring of Matthieu Blazy at Chanel, and what universe he will create. JM: Demna for Gucci. What will it look like? I can't wait to see what he does. When you are drawing the collections, how do you choose what to draw? BF: I gravitate towards a strong silhouette and something that would suit my love of painting with ink. It's usually a look of something strong yet simple. Occasionally I feel inspired to paint a closeup portrait of the model too. JM: When I look at a collection I am usually drawn to a strong silhouette and color. I draw fast, so if I can't get a drawing to work, I move on quickly to another look until I am happy.
CNN
11-07-2025
- Entertainment
- CNN
Designing for the 1%: Here's what happened at the Paris couture shows
After a week's pause following the men's fashion shows, celebrities, editors and influencers were back in Paris for Haute Couture — where bespoke collections are shown and eventually sold to the world's wealthiest customers. The official fall 2025 schedule felt lighter than usual, with absences from major labels like Valentino (the brand only stages a couture show once a year) and Dior (whose new creative director, Jonathan Anderson, was only appointed a month ago). Many houses are also awaiting official runway debuts from their new designers in September — among these include Chanel, Gucci, Balenciaga, Loewe, and Bottega Veneta. However, there were some bright spots. Glenn Martens' first outing as the creative director of Maison Margiela was a formidable debut. True to Margiela's love for upcycling and reinvention, repurposed materials were given new life, including leather jackets distressed to a cracked, decaying finish. A bodycon dress was stitched from prints of moulding and wallpapers, with raw, fraying edges and paired with a papier-mâché–style mask. Several silhouettes were encased in rigid, transparent plastic shells, and veiled, sometimes with bejeweled faces. Chanel presented its last collection designed by its in-house studio, which has been responsible for the French luxury house's designs following the departure of its creative director Virginie Viard in June 2024 and ahead of her successor Mathieu Blazy's arrival (he will present his first collection this fall). Traditionally held under the glass nave of the Grand Palais, this season, guests were requested to enter through a side entrance into a quieter wing of the building. Here, the brand recreated founder Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel's original couture salons, featuring plush cream carpeting, quilted seating, mirrored walls, and softly lit interiors. A golden wheat stalk and a name tag were placed on each seat — including one for Lorde, who was seated alongside Gracie Abrams, Naomi Campbell, and Caroline de Monaco. The collection drew from Coco Chanel's lifelong affair with British culture — especially the Scottish Highlands, where she first discovered tweed during her decade-long romance with Hugh Grosvenor, the second Duke of Westminster. Standout looks included a chartreuse tweed blouson paired with a baby-blue satin draped skirt; a black satin halter-neck gown cinched with a utility belt complete with flap pockets; and a double-breasted tweed coat layered over a tiered pleated skirt trimmed with lace. 'There was something incredibly graceful and airy… like a fairy tale… coupled with very structured shoulders,' Caroline de Maigret, a model and longtime muse of the brand, told CNN after the show. 'It was a powerful yet graceful woman — and it was almost goth sometimes.' Designer Demna (who only goes by his first name) staged his final collection for Balenciaga, ahead of his departure for Gucci. To mark the end of his ten-year tenure at the house, a plethora of famous faces turned up to show their support. That included Naomi Watts, Nicole Kidman, Alexis Stone (channeling Morticia Addams, complete with 'Thing' on their shoulder), Patrick Schwarzenegger, Katy Perry, recently wedded Lauren Sánchez Bezos — even Demna's successor, Pierpaolo Piccioli. On the runway, Kim Kardashian appeared in a white silk gown inspired by the one worn by Elizabeth Taylor in the 1958 film 'Cat on a Hot Tin Roof,' and paired with earrings once owned by Taylor herself. Also walking the show was French actress Isabelle Huppert, a longtime ambassador of the brand. Inspired by the 'dress codes of 'La Bourgeoisie', as Demna stated in the show notes, the collection featured polka-dot coat dresses with exaggerated satin lapels; a sculpted black leather gown with an hourglass silhouette; and a houndstooth ensemble referencing founder Cristóbal Balenciaga's 1967 design, which was worn by his muse Danielle Slavik. Waxed floral prints — a nod to Demna's grandmother's tablecloths as well as his early work at Vetements, the edgy label he co-founded — reappeared in the form of a belted, floor-length skirt-suit. Italian fashion designer Giambattista Valli combined two milestones in one day: After being named Officier de l'Ordre des Arts et des Lettres at a medal ceremony held at his headquarters, he presented his latest couture collection featuring voluminous sorbet dresses with intricately embroidered flowers and 'colors you want to smell and eat,' the designer told CNN during the presentation, which he opted for this season instead of a runway show. France's Minister of Culture, Rachida Dati, was in attendance. Of the award, Valli said: 'It's an extraordinary recognition.' He added: 'It's beautiful to be honored by a country that is half my life — a country that gave me a volume to my voice, that taught me so much.'
CNN
11-07-2025
- Entertainment
- CNN
Designing for the 1%: Here's what happened at the Paris couture shows
After a week's pause following the men's fashion shows, celebrities, editors and influencers were back in Paris for Haute Couture — where bespoke collections are shown and eventually sold to the world's wealthiest customers. The official fall 2025 schedule felt lighter than usual, with absences from major labels like Valentino (the brand only stages a couture show once a year) and Dior (whose new creative director, Jonathan Anderson, was only appointed a month ago). Many houses are also awaiting official runway debuts from their new designers in September — among these include Chanel, Gucci, Balenciaga, Loewe, and Bottega Veneta. However, there were some bright spots. Glenn Martens' first outing as the creative director of Maison Margiela was a formidable debut. True to Margiela's love for upcycling and reinvention, repurposed materials were given new life, including leather jackets distressed to a cracked, decaying finish. A bodycon dress was stitched from prints of moulding and wallpapers, with raw, fraying edges and paired with a papier-mâché–style mask. Several silhouettes were encased in rigid, transparent plastic shells, and veiled, sometimes with bejeweled faces. Chanel presented its last collection designed by its in-house studio, which has been responsible for the French luxury house's designs following the departure of its creative director Virginie Viard in June 2024 and ahead of her successor Mathieu Blazy's arrival (he will present his first collection this fall). Traditionally held under the glass nave of the Grand Palais, this season, guests were requested to enter through a side entrance into a quieter wing of the building. Here, the brand recreated founder Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel's original couture salons, featuring plush cream carpeting, quilted seating, mirrored walls, and softly lit interiors. A golden wheat stalk and a name tag were placed on each seat — including one for Lorde, who was seated alongside Gracie Abrams, Naomi Campbell, and Caroline de Monaco. The collection drew from Coco Chanel's lifelong affair with British culture — especially the Scottish Highlands, where she first discovered tweed during her decade-long romance with Hugh Grosvenor, the second Duke of Westminster. Standout looks included a chartreuse tweed blouson paired with a baby-blue satin draped skirt; a black satin halter-neck gown cinched with a utility belt complete with flap pockets; and a double-breasted tweed coat layered over a tiered pleated skirt trimmed with lace. 'There was something incredibly graceful and airy… like a fairy tale… coupled with very structured shoulders,' Caroline de Maigret, a model and longtime muse of the brand, told CNN after the show. 'It was a powerful yet graceful woman — and it was almost goth sometimes.' Designer Demna (who only goes by his first name) staged his final collection for Balenciaga, ahead of his departure for Gucci. To mark the end of his ten-year tenure at the house, a plethora of famous faces turned up to show their support. That included Naomi Watts, Nicole Kidman, Alexis Stone (channeling Morticia Addams, complete with 'Thing' on their shoulder), Patrick Schwarzenegger, Katy Perry, recently wedded Lauren Sánchez Bezos — even Demna's successor, Pierpaolo Piccioli. On the runway, Kim Kardashian appeared in a white silk gown inspired by the one worn by Elizabeth Taylor in the 1958 film 'Cat on a Hot Tin Roof,' and paired with earrings once owned by Taylor herself. Also walking the show was French actress Isabelle Huppert, a longtime ambassador of the brand. Inspired by the 'dress codes of 'La Bourgeoisie', as Demna stated in the show notes, the collection featured polka-dot coat dresses with exaggerated satin lapels; a sculpted black leather gown with an hourglass silhouette; and a houndstooth ensemble referencing founder Cristóbal Balenciaga's 1967 design, which was worn by his muse Danielle Slavik. Waxed floral prints — a nod to Demna's grandmother's tablecloths as well as his early work at Vetements, the edgy label he co-founded — reappeared in the form of a belted, floor-length skirt-suit. Italian fashion designer Giambattista Valli combined two milestones in one day: After being named Officier de l'Ordre des Arts et des Lettres at a medal ceremony held at his headquarters, he presented his latest couture collection featuring voluminous sorbet dresses with intricately embroidered flowers and 'colors you want to smell and eat,' the designer told CNN during the presentation, which he opted for this season instead of a runway show. France's Minister of Culture, Rachida Dati, was in attendance. Of the award, Valli said: 'It's an extraordinary recognition.' He added: 'It's beautiful to be honored by a country that is half my life — a country that gave me a volume to my voice, that taught me so much.'
Yahoo
11-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
Here's Exactly What to Look Forward to During Haute Couture Paris Fashion Week Fall 2025
On the heels of Menswear Paris Fashion Week, the Fall 2025 season of Haute Couture Paris Fashion Week is upon us – and we've got the rundown of the schedule. Running July 7-10, the official calendar released by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode might feel somewhat more subdued compared to past seasons. As usual, Daniel Roseberry from Schiaparelli will commence the couture festivities on Monday at 10:00AM. Notably absent from Monday's lineup is Christian Dior. Back in May, then-creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri presented 32 couture looks alongside the Cruise 2026 collection in Rome. Given the fact Jonathan Anderson is now installed as Dior creative director, the next couture collection from the fabled French fashion house will not be presented until January 2026. Opening up Tuesday's lineup of back-to-back shows and presentations will be Chanel (because #ChanelTuesday, right?). The Fall 2025 Chanel Haute Couture showcase will mark the last before Matthieu Blazy stages his highly anticipated first outing as creative director in October. Couture regulars Stéphane Rolland, Ronald van der Kemp, and Ashi Studio are also scheduled to present on Tuesday while Giorgio Armani Privé will no doubt close out the day with pure unapologetic glamour and style. The spotlight on Wednesday will no doubt be on Glenn Martens. Back in January, the OTB-owned Paris-based fashion house announced Martens was the successor to John Galliano as creative director. Also taking place on Wednesday July 9th will be Demna's final collection at Balenciaga. You might not need reminding that back in March, the Georgian designer became creative director of Gucci. Also taking up Wednesday's slot will be Frank Sorbier, Elie Saab, Viktor & Rolf, and Zuhair Murad. Concluding the carousel of couture shows on Thursday, the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode will depend on Aelis, Peet Dullaert, Rami Al Ali, and Germanier to draw the schedule to a close. Needless to say, theFashionSpot has you covered during Haute Couture Paris Fashion Week and it's the ONLY place to be. Check out the Haute Couture Paris Fashion Week Fall 2025 schedule in its entirety, here. The post Here's Exactly What to Look Forward to During Haute Couture Paris Fashion Week Fall 2025 appeared first on theFashionSpot.
Grazia USA
11-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Grazia USA
Cardi B Continues Her Paris Style Streak With The Most Parisian Look Of All
Cardi B attends the Maison Margiela Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2025/2026 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on July 09, 2025 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal) Cardi B has been making Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week squarely her own. Throughout the event, the singer and rapper has showed off many head turning looks, each showcasing a different facet of the style chameleon. This time, she has opted to emulate a chic Parisian feel, which references yet never feels too on the nose. On Wednesday, Cardi attended new creative director Glenn Martens' Maison Margiela Haute Couture Fall 2025 show. For the occasion she wore an oversized trench coat with an uneven wax finish, belted tightly at the waist. Black leather Tabi boots served as the bottom half of the look. To accessorise, the rapper opted for chunky gold hoops, oval glasses, and a tilted black beret. A sleek low bun allowed the bold accessories to stand front and centre. Cardi B outside Margiela, during Paris Fashion Week – Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2025/2026, on July 09, 2025 in Paris, France (Photo by) Earlier the same day, Cardi attended the Balenciaga Couture Fall 2025 show, emulating the other end of the film noir aesthetic spectrum. In a look which would not be out of place on a retro heroine, the singer wore a sheer lace floor-length gown featuring a thigh-high slit. The shimmering dress was paired with sheer tights and pointed pumps. However, the voluminous waves and glamourous old-Hollywood makeup where what truly sold the look. Apt for a show which called upon Elizabeth Taylor as a muse. Her other appearances throughout the week included a head turning arrival at the Schiaparelli show featuring a live crow, a jaw dropping sculptural gown featuring 3D roses at the Rahul Mishra show, and even a chase through the streets of Paris by paparazzi. With the week drawing to a close, that should be it for this style streak. Though, we're undoubtedly sure to see more from Cardi in the future in this sphere. Cardi B attends the Balenciaga Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2025/2026 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on July 09, 2025 in Paris, France. (Photo by Marc Piasecki/WireImage) topics: cardi b, Paris Fashion Week, paris couture week, Paris, celebrity, celebrity style, celebrity fashion, celebrity news, fashion, Fashion news, entertainment, Trending
