Latest news with #PEF
GMA Network
5 days ago
- General
- GMA Network
Male Philippine eagle caught hunting a civet after release into wild
The foundation said that the sight of Kalatungan I making its hunt shows its 'successful integration into the wild' as an apex predator. A male Philippine eagle in Leyte was spotted hunting an Asian Palm Civet after its recent release into the wild, the Philippine Eagle Foundation said on Friday. The foundation said that the sight of Kalatungan I making its hunt shows its 'successful integration into the wild' as an apex predator. The sight was caught by one of the foundation's forest guards in Barangay Kagbana in Burauen, Leyte. 'It reflects the role he now plays as an apex predator of the complex food web of the Anonang-lobi forest ecosystem,' said PEF in a statement. 'With fewer than 400 pairs left, every successful hunt is a win for the species,' the organization added. The Philippine eagle (or the Monkey-eating eagle), which is also the national bird of the country, is classified as critically endangered by the International Union for Conservation of Nature, with only about 400 pairs remaining in the wild. The Philippine eagle is also considered as the top carnivore animal in the country. They are only found in Luzon, in the provinces of Leyte and Samar, and in Mindanao, the PEF said. –NB, GMA Integrated News
Fibre2Fashion
13-06-2025
- Business
- Fibre2Fashion
Is Sugar the New Black for Sustainable Fashion?
Sustainability is no longer just a buzzword in the fashion industry—it is a necessity driven by environmental concerns, consumer awareness, and regulatory pressures. The traditional textile industry has long been criticised for its excessive water consumption, pollution, and dependence on non-renewable resources like petroleum-based fibres. With climate change and resource depletion becoming urgent global issues, brands, manufacturers, and researchers are actively seeking innovative solutions to reduce fashion's ecological footprint. As the demand for eco-friendly alternatives rises, unconventional raw materials are making their way into the textile sector. Beyond organic cotton, hemp, and bamboo, new-age materials derived from food waste, algae, fungi, and agricultural byproducts are gaining traction. Among these emerging innovations, sugar-based fibres and bioplastics derived from sugarcane and other natural sources are showing immense potential in reshaping sustainable fashion. These materials not only offer biodegradable and renewable alternatives to synthetic fibres like polyester but also present opportunities for reducing greenhouse gas emissions and fossil fuel dependency. The Science Behind Sugar- Based Textiles Sugar-based textiles are primarily derived from sugarcane, corn, and other carbohydrate-rich crops that offer a renewable alternative to traditional petroleum-based materials. These crops serve as a raw material for biofabrication, where the sugars are extracted and processed into bio-based polymers. The process typically involves fermenting the sugar into bioethanol, which is then converted into lactic acid and polymerised into polylactic acid (PLA). PLA is a biodegradable and compostable polymer that can be spun into fibres or moulded into fabrics, making it an eco-friendly alternative to conventional synthetic fibres like polyester and nylon. Compared to traditional polyester, which can take hundreds of years to degrade, PLA textiles break down much faster under industrial composting conditions, reducing the burden of textile waste in landfills. Another significant breakthrough in sugar-derived textiles is polyethylene furanoate (PEF), a next-generation bio-based polymer that has gained attention for its superior properties. PEF is synthesised from sugar-based 2,5-furandicarboxylic acid (FDCA), offering an alternative to polyethylene terephthalate (PET), the most used plastic in textiles and packaging. What makes PEF particularly promising is its higher mechanical strength, improved gas barrier properties, and enhanced recyclability compared to PET. These attributes make it a strong contender for use in fashion, especially in performance wear, outerwear, and eco-conscious packaging for textile products. Beyond sustainability, sugar-based textiles offer a range of functional benefits that make them a desirable choice for modern fashion. These materials can be engineered to be moisture-wicking, breathable, lightweight, and durable, making them suitable for various applications, from everyday casual wear to high-performance activewear. Some PLA fibres have even been developed to mimic the softness of silk, making them an attractive option for luxury and sustainable fashion brands. Additionally, due to their low environmental impact and biodegradability, they align with the growing shift towards circular fashion, where materials are designed to return to nature at the end of their lifecycle. As research and innovation in biofabrication continue to advance, sugar-derived textiles are becoming more refined, scalable, and cost-effective. With ongoing improvements in blending techniques, dyeing compatibility, and enhanced fibre performance, sugar-based fabrics could soon become a mainstream alternative, reducing the industry's reliance on fossil fuel-derived materials and paving the way for a greener future in fashion. Advantages of Sugar-Based Fabrics Biodegradability : One of the most significant advantages of sugar-based fabrics is their ability to decompose naturally, unlike conventional synthetic fibres such as polyester and nylon, which can persist in landfills and oceans for hundreds of years. Sugar-derived materials like PLA and PEF break down much faster under industrial composting conditions, contributing to waste reduction and supporting a circular economy. This property makes them an attractive solution for reducing textile pollution, a growing concern in the fashion industry. Renewable Source : Sugar-based fabrics are derived from carbohydrate-rich crops such as sugarcane and corn, both of which are rapidly renewable resources. Unlike fossil fuel-derived fabrics that rely on non-renewable petroleum, sugarcane and corn can be replanted and harvested annually, ensuring a continuous supply. Additionally, advancements in bioengineering and agricultural practices are improving the efficiency of crop yields, further enhancing the sustainability of these fibres. Lower Carbon Footprint : The production process of sugar-derived fibres generates significantly fewer greenhouse gas emissions compared to traditional synthetic fibre production. The cultivation of sugarcane, for instance, acts as a carbon sink, absorbing carbon dioxide from the atmosphere. Furthermore, bio-based polymers such as PLA and PEF require less energy to produce than petroleum-based plastics, reducing overall industrial carbon footprints. Some manufacturers are even integrating closed-loop production systems that utilise byproducts from sugar processing, further minimising environmental impact. Versatility : Sugar-based textiles are highly adaptable and can be blended with natural fibres such as cotton, wool, or hemp to enhance their properties while maintaining their eco-friendliness. This blending can improve durability, breathability, and softness, making the fabrics suitable for a wide range of applications, from casual wear to high-performance sportswear and even luxury fashion. Additionally, sugar-derived fibres can be engineered to mimic the texture and performance of traditional synthetics, allowing for innovation in fabric functionality while staying environmentally conscious. As technological advancements continue to refine the production and application of sugar-based fabrics, these materials have the potential to revolutionise sustainable fashion by offering a viable, scalable, and environmentally responsible alternative to conventional textiles. Challenges of Sugar-Based Textiles While sugar-based textiles present a promising step towards sustainability, several challenges must be addressed before they can become a mainstream alternative to conventional fabrics. Competition with Food Supply : One of the primary concerns surrounding sugar-derived textiles is the potential conflict with global food production. Sugarcane and corn, the primary sources for bio-based polymers, are also essential food crops. Large-scale cultivation of these crops for textile manufacturing may lead to land-use competition, potentially driving up food prices and contributing to food insecurity in certain regions. Additionally, intensive farming of these crops can lead to deforestation, loss of biodiversity, and increased water consumption, counteracting some of the environmental benefits of sugar-based fabrics. To mitigate these concerns, researchers and manufacturers are exploring the use of agricultural waste and non-edible plant sources as alternative feedstocks. Cost and Scalability : Despite their environmental benefits, sugar-derived textiles remain more expensive to produce than petroleum-based synthetics. The processes involved in fermenting sugar, polymerising it into bioplastics, and spinning it into fibres require specialised technology, which is still in the early stages of widespread industrial adoption. Additionally, economies of scale currently favour traditional synthetic textiles, as fossil-fuel-based fibre production has been optimised for decades. The higher cost of sugar-based materials makes them less accessible for fast fashion brands, limiting their presence in the mass market. However, as advancements in biofabrication technology improve efficiency and production capacities expand, costs are expected to decrease over time, making these fabrics more commercially viable. Durability Issues : While sugar-based fabrics like PLA and PEF offer biodegradability and a reduced environmental footprint, some of these materials may not yet match the strength and longevity of conventional synthetic fibres such as polyester or nylon. This raises concerns about product lifespan, as biodegradable textiles may degrade faster than their petroleum-based counterparts, leading to potential issues with durability in certain applications. For example, while sugar-based fibres work well for casual wear and sustainable fashion lines, they may not yet be ideal for high-performance sportswear or industrial textiles that require long-term wear resistance. Research is ongoing to enhance the mechanical properties of bio-based polymers through blending techniques and chemical modifications, aiming to strike a balance between sustainability and durability. Addressing these challenges will be key to the widespread adoption of sugar-based textiles. By developing more sustainable cultivation methods, improving production efficiency, and enhancing material performance, the industry can work towards making sugar-derived fabrics a practical and scalable solution for the future of sustainable fashion. The Future of Sugar in Fashion Despite the challenges, sugar-based textiles are gaining traction in the fashion industry as brands and researchers continue to explore their potential. Leading biofabrication companies such as DuPont and NatureWorks are at the forefront of developing bio-based polymers like Sorona, a partially plant-based fibre, and Ingeo, a PLA-based fibre, which offer sustainable alternatives to conventional synthetic materials. These innovations are paving the way for greater adoption of sugar-derived fabrics across various segments of the fashion industry. Several major fashion brands are also experimenting with sugar-based textiles in their sustainable collections. High-end and eco-conscious brands are incorporating PLA and PEF fibres into their product lines, ranging from everyday wear to luxury fashion. As consumer demand for sustainable and biodegradable clothing grows, brands are under increasing pressure to reduce their reliance on petroleum-based materials, making sugar-derived fabrics an attractive alternative. Companies committed to circular fashion are particularly interested in these textiles, as they align with principles of biodegradability and reduced waste. Beyond clothing, sugar-based materials are also making their way into sustainable accessories, footwear, and packaging solutions. Some sportswear brands are developing bio-based sneakers that incorporate PLA and PEF in their uppers and midsoles, reducing their carbon footprint while maintaining performance. In the realm of sustainable packaging, fashion retailers are exploring the use of bioplastic garment bags and compostable shopping bags derived from sugarcane as a replacement for traditional plastic packaging. With continuous advancements in biofabrication and material engineering, the efficiency and durability of sugar-based textiles are expected to improve significantly in the coming years. Researchers are actively working on enhanced fibre blends, chemical modifications, and closed-loop recycling systems to ensure that these materials meet industry standards for strength, longevity, and performance. As production costs decrease, and large-scale manufacturing becomes more feasible, sugar-derived fabrics could shift from being a niche innovation to a mainstream choice in the global fashion market. Ultimately, the integration of sugar-based textiles into fashion represents a step forward in reducing the industry's environmental footprint. While challenges remain, the growing interest in bio-based alternatives signals a promising future—one where sugar could become a key ingredient in shaping a more sustainable and responsible fashion industry.
Fashion Network
10-06-2025
- Business
- Fashion Network
The Woolmark Company's Damien Pommeret: 'It's up to industries to share their environmental impact data'
A few weeks before being announced as Jean Paul Gaultier 's new creative director, Duran Lantink was awarded the Woolmark Prize 2025. The whimsical and talented Dutch designer had applied his expertise and vision of disproportionately swollen volumes to a wool creation. Each year, this event organized by The Woolmark Company - the representative body of the Australian wool industry - rewards contemporary design, with an endowment of 300,000 Australian dollars (around 172,000 euros). It's also an opportunity to promote the properties of this natural fiber, at the heart of a broader commitment. In addition to its promotional activities in the premium and luxury fashion sectors, The Woolmark Company is also working to protect an entire industry, which provides a livelihood for many family farms across the continent. This involves applied research projects, such as the recent development of its "denim lab", as well as a major effort to organize the industry and raise its profile. In this respect, assessing the CSR impact of the material is a major challenge. Damien Pommeret, the organization's representative in Western Europe, reviews the initiatives undertaken by The Woolmark Company and its innovation center. In particular, he details its involvement in the 'Make the Label Count' initiative, launched in 2021 with other players in the textile sector. As Europe moves forward with the validation of new environmental assessment tools - in particular the PEF (Product Environmental Footprint) and the French method - this approach is taking on strategic weight today. After years of consultation, Europe has just validated advances in methodologies for assessing the environmental cost of textiles. However, with certain approaches, the calculation could favor materials derived from the petrochemical industry to the detriment of natural materials. Was this an issue for you? Damien Pommeret: We started sounding the alarm over three years ago. We took part in the creation of 'Make the Label Count' to defend the advantages of using renewable and biodegradable fibers and to highlight the harmful effects of microplastic pollution. At first, we were pretty much alone, but the cotton and other natural materials sectors realized that there were aligned messages. Above all, there was a realization that we were small in comparison with other lobbies. FNW: And now? DP: Natural materials are starting to connect. Initially, brands and supply chains saw this as a pure risk, thinking that the issues were different. The collaborative aspect was complex. Especially as working on the technical details requires a lot of time and dedicated people. But now it's more concrete. The fact that we created "Make the LabelCount", which wasn't linked to a specific material, allows us to get involved. The cotton industry contributes funds. The 64-member coalition is gaining in weight with the authorities, particularly in Europe. FNW: In concrete terms, what does this mean for an industry like wool, represented by Woolmark? DP: It already carries weight with the Australian government and the wool industry. To change approaches, we have to share data with the French government. This data had not been consolidated for sharing and gives very detailed information on the Australian wool industry. We had to overcome legal and political fears about sharing it with Ecobalyse. But it's up to the industries to share their data. Because in reality, the French government will never be able to know the progress made on coffee, avocados or natural textiles when it comes to establishing its results. FNW: But how important is this sharing of data? DP: It's very important. In fact, petroleum-based materials have more data than natural materials, which adds value to the results in assessment systems. Strategic impact assessment tools were created to evaluate products produced by industries using calibrated resources. So it's not adapted to agriculture and livestock farming, even if we're trying to adapt it... The difficulty is that there are lots of different types of operation. We have to create the measurement tools and collect the data, which is much more complex. With Woolmark, we invest in these tools and follow technologies developed by start-ups to improve the situation. Because the biggest impact is on the farms. But that's also where all the potential lies in protecting water resources and biodiversity. FNW: In concrete terms, has this sharing of information improved the ratings of wool products via Ecobalyse? DP: Yes, clearly. As they didn't have any data, they worked with the information they did have: an impact study on sheep in the United States which served as the basis for calculating all wool products. But for textiles, 85% of Merino wool comes from Australia. In Australia, sheep farming is extensive, with 6 to 8 animals per hectare in semi-freedom. So the impact is not at all the same. With our data, this reduced the impact in the final results. The challenge now is to finance regular data collection and to go into more detail. Because this commits the sector to improvement and can be promoted to customers. FNW: Can this be applied to other natural materials? DP: Each sector can have its own elements. For example, American cotton has all these data. The key point is that it's not just a matter of collecting data. It has to commit the industry, breeders, farmers and polyester producers to doing better, and consumers to consuming better. Otherwise, it's pointless transparency. It's necessarily a political issue. The aim is not to point the finger at industries and see people lose their jobs. The aim is to have a tool that enables us to optimize, to be more intelligent in manufacturing and consumption. FNW: Except that, despite the improvement, wool is still not rated as highly as polyester... DP: Admittedly, even if the result is better, we're far from having won. For our part, we have to be transparent about the real impact of wool. But then, the criteria will have to include a projection onto a new way of consuming. The life and impact of a product after its manufacture are not the same for a natural product as for those made from petrochemicals. And this is not yet taken into account at European level. It's a battle that needs to be fought. The other aspect is that we're going to have to consume less to meet our environmental commitments. FNW: What do you mean by this? DP: Let's be clear: natural materials are not the ones that have the least impact, and are often intended for premium products. We're not going to sell a 50-euro cotton t-shirt to every Indian. Each fiber has its own purpose. The aim is to be able to use fibers and products for their performance at the right level of consumption. While we obviously need to keep fashion affordable, the problem is volume. There's a difference between accessible fashion and an industry that's unbridled on environmental and social issues. We're going to have to find a way of ensuring that Europe's affluent classes don't over-consume low-priced products. Which is the case today."
Fashion Network
10-06-2025
- Business
- Fashion Network
The Woolmark Company's Damien Pommeret: 'It's up to industries to share their environmental impact data'
A few weeks before being announced as Jean Paul Gaultier 's new creative director, Duran Lantink was awarded the Woolmark Prize 2025. The whimsical and talented Dutch designer had applied his expertise and vision of disproportionately swollen volumes to a wool creation. Each year, this event organized by The Woolmark Company - the representative body of the Australian wool industry - rewards contemporary design, with an endowment of 300,000 Australian dollars (around 172,000 euros). It's also an opportunity to promote the properties of this natural fiber, at the heart of a broader commitment. In addition to its promotional activities in the premium and luxury fashion sectors, The Woolmark Company is also working to protect an entire industry, which provides a livelihood for many family farms across the continent. This involves applied research projects, such as the recent development of its "denim lab", as well as a major effort to organize the industry and raise its profile. In this respect, assessing the CSR impact of the material is a major challenge. Damien Pommeret, the organization's representative in Western Europe, reviews the initiatives undertaken by The Woolmark Company and its innovation center. In particular, he details its involvement in the 'Make the Label Count' initiative, launched in 2021 with other players in the textile sector. As Europe moves forward with the validation of new environmental assessment tools - in particular the PEF (Product Environmental Footprint) and the French method - this approach is taking on strategic weight today. After years of consultation, Europe has just validated advances in methodologies for assessing the environmental cost of textiles. However, with certain approaches, the calculation could favor materials derived from the petrochemical industry to the detriment of natural materials. Was this an issue for you? Damien Pommeret: We started sounding the alarm over three years ago. We took part in the creation of 'Make the Label Count' to defend the advantages of using renewable and biodegradable fibers and to highlight the harmful effects of microplastic pollution. At first, we were pretty much alone, but the cotton and other natural materials sectors realized that there were aligned messages. Above all, there was a realization that we were small in comparison with other lobbies. FNW: And now? DP: Natural materials are starting to connect. Initially, brands and supply chains saw this as a pure risk, thinking that the issues were different. The collaborative aspect was complex. Especially as working on the technical details requires a lot of time and dedicated people. But now it's more concrete. The fact that we created "Make the LabelCount", which wasn't linked to a specific material, allows us to get involved. The cotton industry contributes funds. The 64-member coalition is gaining in weight with the authorities, particularly in Europe. FNW: In concrete terms, what does this mean for an industry like wool, represented by Woolmark? DP: It already carries weight with the Australian government and the wool industry. To change approaches, we have to share data with the French government. This data had not been consolidated for sharing and gives very detailed information on the Australian wool industry. We had to overcome legal and political fears about sharing it with Ecobalyse. But it's up to the industries to share their data. Because in reality, the French government will never be able to know the progress made on coffee, avocados or natural textiles when it comes to establishing its results. FNW: But how important is this sharing of data? DP: It's very important. In fact, petroleum-based materials have more data than natural materials, which adds value to the results in assessment systems. Strategic impact assessment tools were created to evaluate products produced by industries using calibrated resources. So it's not adapted to agriculture and livestock farming, even if we're trying to adapt it... The difficulty is that there are lots of different types of operation. We have to create the measurement tools and collect the data, which is much more complex. With Woolmark, we invest in these tools and follow technologies developed by start-ups to improve the situation. Because the biggest impact is on the farms. But that's also where all the potential lies in protecting water resources and biodiversity. FNW: In concrete terms, has this sharing of information improved the ratings of wool products via Ecobalyse? DP: Yes, clearly. As they didn't have any data, they worked with the information they did have: an impact study on sheep in the United States which served as the basis for calculating all wool products. But for textiles, 85% of Merino wool comes from Australia. In Australia, sheep farming is extensive, with 6 to 8 animals per hectare in semi-freedom. So the impact is not at all the same. With our data, this reduced the impact in the final results. The challenge now is to finance regular data collection and to go into more detail. Because this commits the sector to improvement and can be promoted to customers. FNW: Can this be applied to other natural materials? DP: Each sector can have its own elements. For example, American cotton has all these data. The key point is that it's not just a matter of collecting data. It has to commit the industry, breeders, farmers and polyester producers to doing better, and consumers to consuming better. Otherwise, it's pointless transparency. It's necessarily a political issue. The aim is not to point the finger at industries and see people lose their jobs. The aim is to have a tool that enables us to optimize, to be more intelligent in manufacturing and consumption. FNW: Except that, despite the improvement, wool is still not rated as highly as polyester... DP: Admittedly, even if the result is better, we're far from having won. For our part, we have to be transparent about the real impact of wool. But then, the criteria will have to include a projection onto a new way of consuming. The life and impact of a product after its manufacture are not the same for a natural product as for those made from petrochemicals. And this is not yet taken into account at European level. It's a battle that needs to be fought. The other aspect is that we're going to have to consume less to meet our environmental commitments. FNW: What do you mean by this? DP: Let's be clear: natural materials are not the ones that have the least impact, and are often intended for premium products. We're not going to sell a 50-euro cotton t-shirt to every Indian. Each fiber has its own purpose. The aim is to be able to use fibers and products for their performance at the right level of consumption. While we obviously need to keep fashion affordable, the problem is volume. There's a difference between accessible fashion and an industry that's unbridled on environmental and social issues. We're going to have to find a way of ensuring that Europe's affluent classes don't over-consume low-priced products. Which is the case today."
Fashion Network
10-06-2025
- Business
- Fashion Network
The Woolmark Company's Damien Pommeret: 'It's up to industries to share their environmental impact data'
A few weeks before being announced as Jean Paul Gaultier 's new creative director, Duran Lantink was awarded the Woolmark Prize 2025. The whimsical and talented Dutch designer had applied his expertise and vision of disproportionately swollen volumes to a wool creation. Each year, this event organized by The Woolmark Company - the representative body of the Australian wool industry - rewards contemporary design, with an endowment of 300,000 Australian dollars (around 172,000 euros). It's also an opportunity to promote the properties of this natural fiber, at the heart of a broader commitment. In addition to its promotional activities in the premium and luxury fashion sectors, The Woolmark Company is also working to protect an entire industry, which provides a livelihood for many family farms across the continent. This involves applied research projects, such as the recent development of its "denim lab", as well as a major effort to organize the industry and raise its profile. In this respect, assessing the CSR impact of the material is a major challenge. Damien Pommeret, the organization's representative in Western Europe, reviews the initiatives undertaken by The Woolmark Company and its innovation center. In particular, he details its involvement in the 'Make the Label Count' initiative, launched in 2021 with other players in the textile sector. As Europe moves forward with the validation of new environmental assessment tools - in particular the PEF (Product Environmental Footprint) and the French method - this approach is taking on strategic weight today. After years of consultation, Europe has just validated advances in methodologies for assessing the environmental cost of textiles. However, with certain approaches, the calculation could favor materials derived from the petrochemical industry to the detriment of natural materials. Was this an issue for you? Damien Pommeret: We started sounding the alarm over three years ago. We took part in the creation of 'Make the Label Count' to defend the advantages of using renewable and biodegradable fibers and to highlight the harmful effects of microplastic pollution. At first, we were pretty much alone, but the cotton and other natural materials sectors realized that there were aligned messages. Above all, there was a realization that we were small in comparison with other lobbies. FNW: And now? DP: Natural materials are starting to connect. Initially, brands and supply chains saw this as a pure risk, thinking that the issues were different. The collaborative aspect was complex. Especially as working on the technical details requires a lot of time and dedicated people. But now it's more concrete. The fact that we created "Make the LabelCount", which wasn't linked to a specific material, allows us to get involved. The cotton industry contributes funds. The 64-member coalition is gaining in weight with the authorities, particularly in Europe. FNW: In concrete terms, what does this mean for an industry like wool, represented by Woolmark? DP: It already carries weight with the Australian government and the wool industry. To change approaches, we have to share data with the French government. This data had not been consolidated for sharing and gives very detailed information on the Australian wool industry. We had to overcome legal and political fears about sharing it with Ecobalyse. But it's up to the industries to share their data. Because in reality, the French government will never be able to know the progress made on coffee, avocados or natural textiles when it comes to establishing its results. FNW: But how important is this sharing of data? DP: It's very important. In fact, petroleum-based materials have more data than natural materials, which adds value to the results in assessment systems. Strategic impact assessment tools were created to evaluate products produced by industries using calibrated resources. So it's not adapted to agriculture and livestock farming, even if we're trying to adapt it... The difficulty is that there are lots of different types of operation. We have to create the measurement tools and collect the data, which is much more complex. With Woolmark, we invest in these tools and follow technologies developed by start-ups to improve the situation. Because the biggest impact is on the farms. But that's also where all the potential lies in protecting water resources and biodiversity. FNW: In concrete terms, has this sharing of information improved the ratings of wool products via Ecobalyse? DP: Yes, clearly. As they didn't have any data, they worked with the information they did have: an impact study on sheep in the United States which served as the basis for calculating all wool products. But for textiles, 85% of Merino wool comes from Australia. In Australia, sheep farming is extensive, with 6 to 8 animals per hectare in semi-freedom. So the impact is not at all the same. With our data, this reduced the impact in the final results. The challenge now is to finance regular data collection and to go into more detail. Because this commits the sector to improvement and can be promoted to customers. FNW: Can this be applied to other natural materials? DP: Each sector can have its own elements. For example, American cotton has all these data. The key point is that it's not just a matter of collecting data. It has to commit the industry, breeders, farmers and polyester producers to doing better, and consumers to consuming better. Otherwise, it's pointless transparency. It's necessarily a political issue. The aim is not to point the finger at industries and see people lose their jobs. The aim is to have a tool that enables us to optimize, to be more intelligent in manufacturing and consumption. FNW: Except that, despite the improvement, wool is still not rated as highly as polyester... DP: Admittedly, even if the result is better, we're far from having won. For our part, we have to be transparent about the real impact of wool. But then, the criteria will have to include a projection onto a new way of consuming. The life and impact of a product after its manufacture are not the same for a natural product as for those made from petrochemicals. And this is not yet taken into account at European level. It's a battle that needs to be fought. The other aspect is that we're going to have to consume less to meet our environmental commitments. FNW: What do you mean by this? DP: Let's be clear: natural materials are not the ones that have the least impact, and are often intended for premium products. We're not going to sell a 50-euro cotton t-shirt to every Indian. Each fiber has its own purpose. The aim is to be able to use fibers and products for their performance at the right level of consumption. While we obviously need to keep fashion affordable, the problem is volume. There's a difference between accessible fashion and an industry that's unbridled on environmental and social issues. We're going to have to find a way of ensuring that Europe's affluent classes don't over-consume low-priced products. Which is the case today."
