Meet the Indigenous chef stirring change in Australia's $80 million native food industry

SBS Australia

6 hours ago

Standing at a small outdoor grill in Brisbane, Koori chef Chris Jordan is showing a group of trainees how to smoke sea mullet. It's all part of his broader purpose 'Really important to pass down this knowledge to a younger generation, especially working in the food industry as there isn't much of a representation of First Nations chefs using First Nations food.' Watching on, 19-year-old apprentice Kaylee Rose Tsoumbris Davies 'It makes me feel connected. It is just a really nice feeling to get to know something that I didn't know my whole life growing up, that was a big struggle for me.' For Mr Jordan, passing on knowledge is very personal. Growing up in Northern NSW, he learned little about his Aboriginal heritage or his connections to Kamilaroi country. 'Speaking to my grandmother, they were told if anyone asks 'tell someone that you're Italian'. And there was a lot of shame in the family. It is amazing in my lifetime to see that shift and my family, my extended family, um be proud of who they are.' Family means a lot to Mr Jordan, who named his catering business in memory of his father Joseph … a refugee from former-Yugoslavia, who died when he was a baby. 'I don't have any memories of him at all. And that's part of the reason why I named my business Three Little Birds was his favourite song by Bob Marley as a message of positivity in our family.' After a stint in London, Mr Jordan returned to Australia in 2017, determined to learn about his heritage. And he found an Aboriginal mentor who changed his life forever. 'The biggest part for me getting sober was meeting Auntie Dale. She has been in the bush food industry for 35 years now. She's an amazing chef, an amazing educator.' Born at Dirranbandi (Deer-an-bandy) in south-west Queensland Aunty Dale Chapman is well known for cooking with native foods. She is pleased to have supported Mr Jordan's progress. 'I'm extremely proud! He's taken Australian native ingredients to another level, and being able to share it with the young people is so important because they are ultimately our future.' For Mr Jordan, securing the future also means sourcing sustainable bush foods and supporting Indigenous growers. Australia's bush food industry is valued at more than 80 million dollars annually, according to Sydney University research. Yet few of the profits go back to Indigenous growers. 'Less than 3% of the Bush food industry is Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander owned, and I think that really needs to shift. Making sure that the money goes back to community and we've collaborated with a lot of different restaurants and cafes.' One supplier is the Food Connect Shed in Brisbane -a community-owned hub focusing on sustainable food systems. Its CEO is Robert Pekin ( PRON Peekin). 'it's owned by 540 odd people. Most of them are locals. One of our big long-term objectives is we need to get First Nations food into our diets in a mainstream way.' Teaching respect for native ingredients and their traditional uses is also a growing focus at universities across the country. Dr Frances Wyld teaches Aboriginal Studies at the University of South Australia. 'They are the foods that have sustained Aboriginal people for 60,000 years. They also require less care, such as more water, more pesticides, because they belong here, they grow here.' It's information that Mr Jordan shares in school classrooms and at cooking workshops in juvenile detention. He also supports young people who've had contact with the justice system. 'A huge percentage of our First Nations youth are incarcerated. It's really important to have that connection to culture and have the opportunity for employment. For me personally, leaving home at a young age and going down a path where I ended up having to get sober and really clean my life up, introducing native ingredients really helped me. Yeah it's really, really powerful.' Whether showcasing bush foods to the public or teaching young trainees, for Mr Jordan it's about inspiring change beyond the plate. 'So, passing it down through food and sharing my experience and how it saved my life, I think it's a really strong message.'