Master Perfumer Francis Kurkdjian On His Newest Scent, Kurky

Forbes

5 days ago

Francis Kurkdjian
Kurky is the latest release from the famed French-Armenian perfumer, Francis Kurkdjian, who's also the nose behind cult classics like Baccarat Rouge 540 and of course, founder of his namesake fragrance house, Maison Francis Kurkdjian. Since launching the brand in 2009, now part of the LVMH family, Kurkdjian has built a reputation for offering elegant scents, and creating what he calls a 'fragrance wardrobe' to suit every mood and occasion.
Kurky by Maison Francis Kurkdjian
The latest fragrance to join the family, Kurky is a playful, color-splashed scent that pays homage to his childhood (short for Kurkdjian), channeling the freedom and fun of one's inner child, tapping into the whimsical side of the Maison — the master perfumer tells us more.
Francis Kurkdjian: Inspiration is the hidden part of creation. It is also the most difficult creative stage to explain for me as creative inputs may come from diverse sources. Kurky comes during a moment of my creative life when I want to introduce the idea of letting go. I wanted something that would make people smile, a scent that contrasts with the overbearing seriousness of an industry dominated by pompous adjectives. Kurky is beautifully simple, fun, lighthearted, and there to awaken one's inner child. 'All grown-ups were once children, but only few of them remember it,' said Saint-Exupéry's Little Prince; it's an antidote to grey days, to pessimism. Instead, Kurky is an invitation to experience life through a rainbow of colors, and for grown-ups who dare to dream like kids. Maison Francis Kurkdjian carries this part of childhood within it, and has done since its earliest days; in 2009, Les bulles d'Agathe (Agathe's bubbles), was a5 nod to the olfactory education of the youngest children with scented soap bubbles. It's about the pleasure of simple things; there's nothing more chic.
Francis Kurkdjian as a child
FK: I always start with the name when I develop a fragrance. It gives me direction; it frames all the ideas I may have in mind. It works for me as a mood board. Since I can remember, people always had a hard time pronouncing my Armenian family name. So Kurky is a friendly nickname given to me by my very close friends, it's short for Kurkdjian, and some of them still call me that since I was little. I like the fact it resonates well with quirky and kooky, and sounds friendly. The name was born spontaneously, without too much deliberation, out of creativity and freedom. Like a sudden smile or a burst of laughter.
FK: When creating Kurky, my vision was a mouthwatering scent that would feel juicy, fun and quirky, a little addictive but far from traditional gourmand accords. It needed to be sweet enough to make your mouth water like a sweet treat, but still maintain a light, freshness to it. Imagine a large bubble of musk, to which I attached a tutti-frutti accord with facets of peach and raspberry, with a subtle hint of creamy vanilla. Like a sweet, tangy candy.
Kurky by Maison Francis Kurkdjian
FK: In my mind, the Maison Francis Kurkdjian customer is typically someone who values quality, sophistication, and emotional connection through scent. I guess they follow my interest and my love for aesthetically driven ideas and/or products, appreciating art, design, and craftsmanship. I am emotionally intuitive, so fragrance is for me as a form of self-expression. I believe my wearers of my scents are curious and seek uniqueness beyond mainstream trends. I do not believe in a fragrance being perfect for only one type of person. To me, a fragrance, like how you dress yourself from day to day, should reflect your mood, your personality, or who you want to be in that moment. This philosophy is what I called the 'Fragrance Wardrobe'. Finally, I hope Kurky will touch all those who feel that insatiable desire for freedom, those who see life unconventionally, while bringing out a smile on their face.
FK: All my creations are special and dear to me, and I treasure theirs behind the scenes stories. Kurky isn't about the past or nostalgia at all. On the contrary, it is resolutely contemporary. It reflects a form of surprise, that wonder that can be lost once we enter adulthood. Kurky is about awakening the child you once were, to break away from all the rules imposed on grown-ups. It means jumping into a puddle, allowing yourself to love candy…even when you're a grown-up!
FK: Later this year, we will have an amazing brand-new activation for our iconic scent Baccarat Rouge 540, and this fall, we'll be hosting in Paris a very special celebration of my 30th career anniversary. Stay tuned!