
Audemars Piguet unveils groundbreaking perpetual calendar movement on its 150th anniversary
As it celebrates its 150th anniversary, Audemars Piguet has just announced one of the most significant innovations in the world of watch complications: a new generation of self-winding, perpetual calendar movement. Named the Calibre 7138, it allows for the first time access to all the functionality of a perpetual calendar watch through an all-in-one crown. A perpetual calendar watch – also referred to in watch circles as QP, from the initials for the French term quantieme perpetuel – is a mechanical timepiece that tracks and displays an array of calendar information on its dial. This typically includes the day of the week, date of the month, leap years and moon phases. They are some of the most complicated pieces in horology, making them also some of the most expensive. In these new watches from Audemars Piguet, the perpetual calendar, which mechanically reproduces the movement of celestial bodies, has been entirely rethought. 'Astronomy is the mother of watchmaking,' says Sebastian Vivas, heritage and museum director for Audemars Piguet. 'Calendar watches have evolved over time to capture the cycles of celestial bodies with a combination of small cams and gears. Among them, the perpetual calendar, one of the most complex in this category, is like a small mechanical computer on the wrist, capable of keeping the date correct for an entire century.' The brand has some pedigree in this area of watchmaking, creating what are referred to as complicated movements since its founding in Le Brassus, Switzerland, in 1875. The new movement makes its debut on a 41mm Code 11.59 in 18-carat white gold, and on two 41mm Royal Oak models in stainless steel or 18-carat sand gold. Those models are also being offered in anniversary editions limited to 150 pieces each. While at first glance the anniversary versions may look similar to the other pieces being released, they carry a few subtle design cues that mark them apart. Most notably, besides being numbered, they carry a vintage Audemars Piguet signature inspired by archival documents. These are particularly striking on the Royal Oak variations, as the cursive heritage logo contrasts nicely with the legendary model's 1970s octagonal aesthetics. To the uninitiated, it might seem that making control of a few dials through a single crown on the side of a watch is a simple enough task. They would be wrong. The development process took five years to perfect and is protected by five patents. Traditional perpetual calendar watches are usually equipped with correctors inserted in the side of the case, which are activated by using a small tool to adjust the various subdials. This is an age-old system that is pretty cumbersome and fiddly. Watch owners have been known to damage their timepieces by trying to make these adjustments. Most end up taking them to their nearest dealership for maintenance. When the announcement was made on stage in the media preview that all the dials would now be adjustable from a single crown, excited celebratory noises rippled in the auditorium. The watch press – and watch collectors – take things like this very seriously. The new crown incorporates four different positions. The first enables the wearer to wind the watch clockwise. Pulling the crown out one step further allows you to set the date clockwise and to adjust the month and the leap year in the opposite direction. By pulling the crown out again to a third position, the user can set the time bidirectionally. The last position is reached by pushing the crown back one step to set the day and week clockwise and the moon phases counter-clockwise. Again, it sounds simple, but it took five years for the best minds in horology to figure out the mechanism. In 1978, at the height of the quartz crisis, the brand broke a record with the world's thinnest self-winding, perpetual calendar wristwatch of its time, Calibre 2120/2800. Quartz threatened the very survival of watchmaking, as it eliminated the need for complicated mechanics. Hundreds of watchmakers packed up their tools for good during this era in the area surrounding Le Brassus. But Audemars Piguet endured, insisting on making its watches even more mechanical and more complicated. It is easy to think that mechanical watches serve no purpose – after all you can just stare at your phone for an accurate time – but they undeniably serve a deeper meaning. To witness the launch of these watches and be walked through the intricate mechanisms that make up their components, we were invited to spend two nights in the Vallee de Joux. We spent them at Audemars Piguet's own hotel, Hotel des Horlogers, which is alongside its museum and a few steps away from its new factory. Going out for an evening stroll and looking up at the sky, you get a sense of why generation after generation of watchmakers in this area became fascinated with the movement of celestial bodies. On a clear night as you look up you can see what seems like every star in the universe. Living out here 150 years ago, the thought of taming that sky and the eternity it represents through the intricate mechanisms of a watch must have been too much to resist.

Try Our AI Features
Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:
Comments
No comments yet...
Related Articles


Al Etihad
an hour ago
- Al Etihad
EU, Britain reach post-Brexit deal on Gibraltar Border
12 June 2025 00:14 BRUSSELS (WAM)The European Union (EU) and Britain have agreed on the status of the overseas territory of Gibraltar, facilitating border crossings and resolving years of political territory has had its border arrangements with Spain as a significant point of contention since the United Kingdom's decision to withdraw from the EU in Wednesday's agreement, arrivals at Gibraltar Airport will present their passports to both Gibraltarian and Spanish border British Foreign Office stated that this system mirrors the model used by French police at London's St. Pancras station, the terminus for the Eurostar service connecting Britain with mainland Europe. "We have reached an agreement which protects British sovereignty, supports Gibraltar's economy and allows businesses to plan for the long-term once again," British Foreign Minister David Lammy said.


Campaign ME
13 hours ago
- Campaign ME
Advisory firm CAP.G Ventures launches in the UAE
CAP.G Ventures has opened shop in the UAE, offering services which aim to help small and medium enterprises achieve sustainable growth without the overhead and inefficiencies of traditional agency or executive models. With the introduction of its flagship consulting arm, CAP.G Consult, the firm aims to bring a forward-thinking approach to marketing leadership designed for speed, agility, and measurable impact with its Fractional CMO model to the region 'We're entering an era where agility trumps size, and clarity drives scale,' said Ghayath Sioufi, Founder & CEO of CAP.G Ventures. 'CAP.G was built to bridge the gap between bold ideas and real-world execution. We partner with visionary founders, CEOs, and boards to eliminate bottlenecks, accelerate go-to-market strategies, and build scalable brand engines – without the burden of a full-time CMO.' With more than 25 years of experience across agency and client-side leadership roles, Sioufi has long been at the intersection of marketing, commercial strategy, and digital innovation. His journey spans industries from telecom and FMCG to banking, aesthetics, and education – consistently leading transformative growth strategies and building high-performance teams. After two decades driving impact within large organisations, he recognised a growing need among startups and SMEs for access to seasoned marketing leadership without the overhead of a full-time CMO. Certified by institutions like London Business School, INSEAD, and The Knowledge Academy, Sioufi claims his influence extends beyond the boardroom. He has served on international judging panels, contributed to industry thought leadership, and played an active role within the International Advertising Association – UAE Chapter. Fluent in Arabic, English, and French, and based in the UAE for more than 20 years, Sioufi said he continues to blend strategic insight with human-centric leadership. Built with a clear eye on the future, CAP.G Ventures is positioned to expand from its UAE base into broader GCC markets, offering businesses a new, leaner path to strategic clarity and accelerated growth.


Web Release
13 hours ago
- Web Release
PAUL Opens First Spanish Bakery in Barcelona's Iconic Rambla de Catalunya
Scope Investment proudly announces the opening of the first PAUL bakery and café in Spain, bringing the charm and craftsmanship of the iconic French brand to the heart of Barcelona. Located at Rambla de Catalunya 29, the new venue sits just steps away from Gaudí landmarks such as Casa Batlló and La Pedrera, and moments from the elegance of Passeig de Gràcia—Barcelona's most prestigious shopping avenue. Spanning 80 square metres, the light-filled café features a one-floor interior and a welcoming outdoor terrace with seating for 40 guests. Designed as a cosy neighbourhood spot and an urban escape for locals, professionals and tourists alike, the new PAUL store blends heritage baking with contemporary flair in one of the city's most vibrant districts. The menu celebrates French culinary traditions with a selection of freshly baked baguettes, buttery croissants, and an indulgent variety of pastries, from almond-chocolate croissants to caramel madeleines. Guests can also enjoy savoury classics such as jambon-beurre sandwiches and quiche Lorraine, along with colourful mini macarons and elegant tartlets. 'This opening marks a new chapter for Scope Investment as we expand into Spain's culinary scene with a brand so deeply rooted in authenticity and artisanal excellence,' said Kieran Mallon the CEO of Scope Investment. 'Barcelona is a city that celebrates food, art and culture, and we're thrilled to be contributing to that spirit through PAUL.' With its central location, the store is easily accessible for university students, tourists exploring the Gothic Quarter, and professionals working in the nearby business district. The new opening is part of a broader growth plan that includes upcoming PAUL locations across Barcelona and Madrid, with stores set to launch on Diagonal Avenue, Plaza del Perú, and Serrano Street later this year.