How Italian Home Cooks Make Their Pasta Taste So Good
When the chef Carla Lalli Music recently made pasta with sausage and broccoli rabe for dinner, it came out too salty. Her error? She used oversalted pasta water to finish her sauce. 'Sometimes it's better not to use it,' she said, claiming that a splash of 'regular old water' does the same trick.
Many a recipe writer and Italian cook has espoused the virtues of saving some starchy water before draining pasta to then toss with the noodles and sauce. That starch is said to help thicken a sauce so it can better coat pasta. But does it really make that much of a difference?
Even the renowned cookbook author Marcella Hazan, in 'Marcella Cucina,' writes that cooking with pasta water 'imparts the same tedious, faintly gelatinous texture to what otherwise have been fresh and lively sauces.' Use it 'occasionally,' she advises.
Daniel M. Busiello, a physicist and researcher at the University of Padova, said over a teleconference call that the keys to a silky sauce are the relationships among starch, cheese and water. In April, Mr. Busiello, along with seven other Italian scientists, published the latest version of a paper on cacio e pepe, finding — after months of tests — that the concentration of starch relative to the amount of cheese and water is what directly affects the dish's creaminess.
Here's why: Starch prevents what the scientists coined as the 'Mozzarella Phase,' or what happens when heat causes the proteins in cheese (casein and whey) to clump, creating a sauce that is wet and stringy like mozzarella, rather than smooth, creamy and emulsified. 'The starch screens the interaction between proteins by basically putting itself in the middle,' to prevent that sticking, he said.
Stirring in plain water achieves the same saucy, glossy result as pasta water, so long as there is enough cheese and starch released from stirring the pasta. But you're boiling pasta and already have that water, so why not use it?
In this recipe, pasta water is made more useful as fresh green beans boiled with the pasta season the water with their gentle vegetal umami, while the quick sausage ragù simmers in another. In a dance of sorts between the two pans, the cooked beans and pasta are drained and added to the ragù. As a final step, a spritz of lemon juice and a generous splash of that savory green bean broth are stirred vigorously into the sauced pasta, along with Parmesan, helping to draw out the pasta's starch while letting the cheese melt into the sauce without splitting.
A short pasta shape, such as orecchiette, macaroni or wagon wheels, is the easiest to stir into a silky sauce here — and means that you can eat the dish with a spoon in front of the television. Just be sure not to oversalt your water — you're going to need it.
Follow New York Times Cooking on Instagram , Facebook , YouTube , TikTok and Pinterest . Get regular updates from New York Times Cooking, with recipe suggestions, cooking tips and shopping advice .
Hashtags
Try Our AI Features
Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:
Comments
No comments yet...
Related Articles
Yahoo
2 hours ago
- Yahoo
Miley Cyrus Makes a Silky Blue Lingerie Set Look So Effortless
"Hearst Magazines and Yahoo may earn commission or revenue on some items through these links." As each day passes, nightwear continues to make its way into our daytime wardrobes. From Hailey Bieber slipping into a romantic black transparent top for girls' night to Kim Kardashian in a Dilara Findikoglu deconstructed corset dress in Venice, Italy, opting for a slinky, hot piece of lingerie has never felt more alluring. Miley Cyrus has never shied away from a bold statement, and her latest Gucci Flora campaign is no exception. This week, the singer shared new photos of her partnership with the luxury house on Instagram, captioning the post, '#GucciFlora forever ❤️.' She wore a hazy-blue satin halter top and a matching slip skirt, both edged with delicate transparent lace. The light fabric also featured a tiny belt detail that cinched at her waist and had gold hardware. Cyrus has been rocking the bleached brow trend for quite some time in true rockstar fashion. She kept her highlighted brunette waves falling in loose, bouncy layers. The casual, cool style complemented her cut-crease eye shadow, sharp winged liner, and rosy pink lip color. The new Gucci Flora Gorgeous Gardenia Intense Eau de Parfum is a deeper, woodier take on the classic Flora line. It opens with luminous floral notes such as bright gardenia petals and fresh jasmine before settling into richer layers of creamy sandalwood and warm amber. In another clip for the campaign, Cyrus wore oxblood-red micro leather shorts from the Italian fashion house paired with a matching Gucci belt. The vibrant bottoms were styled with a gray ribbed knit long-sleeve shirt and large sculptural earrings. You Might Also Like 4 Investment-Worthy Skincare Finds From Sephora The 17 Best Retinol Creams Worth Adding to Your Skin Care Routine Solve the daily Crossword
CNET
3 hours ago
- CNET
Here's What You Need to Know About Nonstick Cookware Made With Teflon
A great nonstick pan can do wonders for your cooking and cleanup, whether you're frying an egg or searing a steak. However, some nonstick cookware is coated in Teflon. While there is a wide variety of nonstick cookware sets on the market, Teflon has been around since the 1930s, and some consumers question the safety of the chemical-coated pans, especially in recent years. CNET Last year, the US saw an increase in reported cases of "Teflon flu." If that raises questions in your mind, you're not alone. Several Reddit users expressed the same concerns, with some wondering whether inhaling Teflon fumes while cooking is dangerous. The good news is that if your cookware was made after a certain year and you use it properly, you should be in the clear. But there's also a bit more to the story. Here's what you need to know about Teflon flu and using your nonstick kitchenware without health worries. Read more: Never Raise Your Air Fryer Above This Temperature What is Teflon flu? Air fryer baskets are often made with a synthetic nonstick coating. David Watsky/CNET The chemical polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), found in Teflon and similar nonstick surfaces, is common in air fryers, pots and pans and other kitchen appliances. When these materials overheat, they can release synthetic compounds that pose health risks. Polymer fume fever, or Teflon flu, has reignited a debate about nonstick cookware safety. The illness occurs when fumes from an overheated Teflon or nonstick pan are inhaled. Nonstick pans are made with polytetrafluoroethylene (also known as PTFE). PTFEs are known as "forever chemicals" because they take decades or sometimes even hundreds of years to break down. Read more: I Upgraded to This PFAS-Free Glass Fryer and You Should, Too Under normal use, PTFEs aren't thought to cause a health risk, but when heated to above 500 degrees Fahrenheit, there are increased emissions and the resulting polymer fume fever. Polymer fume fever causes a range of reported symptoms including fever, chills, muscle tension and headache. Symptoms of Teflon flu are temporary and generally start within 12 hours of exposure but can take up to 24 hours to take hold. How to avoid Teflon flu Teflon and nonstick cookware are easy to use, clean and maintain, but it should be used only for low to medium heat cooking. Never heat your nonstick cookware over high heat or medium heat for long periods of time. Try to keep the surface temperature at or below 450 degrees Fahrenheit, or emissions from the PTFE coating are likely to increase. What is Teflon and does it cause cancer? Nonstick or Teflon is a popular choice for home cooks. The biggest advantage is that food won't stick to pots and pans coated with Teflon the way it does to other metal materials, so it's easy to flip a pancake or remove a cooked egg. Nonstick is also very easy to clean, generally taking no more than a few seconds to wash by hand. Teflon is a brand name for a synthetic chemical called polytetrafluoroethylene that's used in many household products, from wire coatings to fabric protectors and kitchen cookware. The knock on Teflon is that it's unsafe if consumed or absorbed into the body and can increase the chances of cancer and other diseases. Studies have shown some connections (more on that below), but Teflon still exists and is used to make cookware, and the safety concerns around Teflon are mostly a thing of the past. I stress mostly. Here's why… The brand Teflon may be associated with a risk of cancer, but it's actually a chemical formerly used in the making of Teflon called PFOA that's to blame. According to the US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, perfluorooctanoic acid is a manufactured perfluorochemical developed in the 1930s and used to make fluoropolymer coatings and products that resist heat, oil, stains, grease and water. Thanks to a federal ban, all Teflon and nonstick cookware made after 2013 should be free of harmful PFOA. Europe enacted the same ban in 2008. All-Clad What are the negative effects of PFOA? In some studies, PFOA has been linked to cancer, immune deficiency and a host of other medical problems. It has also been shown to affect growth and development and injure the liver in laboratory animals. As recently as 2017, chemical giant Dupont settled a lawsuit for more than $670 million for its role in contaminating drinking water with PFOA (also referred to as C-8) in the mid-Ohio Valley. A previous class-action suit from 2004 in the same area led to a study that found PFOA was linked to cancer and compromised immune function, even in small doses. Teflon cookware made before 2013 may be toxic All that was enough for most manufacturers to halt the production of nonstick coatings using PFOA around 2002. Teflon using PFOA wasn't officially banned in the United States until 2014. Europe banned it in 2008. That means if you own Teflon nonstick cookware from 2013 or earlier, there's a chance it contains PFOA. Nine years is typically longer than the average lifespan of a nonstick pan, but if you're not sure, it's probably best to replace any Teflon-coated pots or pans. If you're concerned, look for PFOA-free cookware Because of the ban, all nonstick cookware made in the US should be PFOA-free, but you'd be wise to make sure. Be extra cautious about buying cheap or off-brand cookware, especially if it's not produced in a country with an active PFOA ban. PFOA is still produced elsewhere, largely in China, and used to make consumer products. The good news is that PFOA-free nonstick cookware is cheap, so there's no reason to risk it with anything that might contain the chemical. You can nab a 10-inch skillet from a trusted cookware brand like Misen for $99 or Tramontina for about $30. Luxury cookware brand All-Clad makes a two-piece nonstick cookware set for $80. The Always Pan is a nonstick ceramic alternative to Teflon cookware. Our Place The best natural nonstick cookware alternatives If you're ready to ditch Teflon and chemical-based nonstick pots and pans, there are plenty of more natural nonstick alternatives. The most nonstick of the bunch is ceramic cookware, which has seen a boom in popularity since concerns about Teflon first surfaced. A few popular ceramic cookware options include The Always Pan (read my full review here), Caraway and Greenpan. Cast iron is another cookware material that develops a natural nonstick coating over time, especially if you season it well and care for it properly. It won't likely ever become as nonstick as Teflon, but cast iron has loads of other culinary benefits that are worthy of a few extra seconds of scrubbing in the sink after use. Lodge is a tried-and-true cast-iron cookware producer: You can scoop up a 10-inch skillet for as little as $25. Cast iron develops a nonstick patina over time and is a natural alternative to Teflon. Angela Lang/CNET Carbon steel is yet another option and functions similarly to cast-iron cookware, although it's not quite as heavy, slightly more sensitive to corrosion, and typically more expensive. Carbon steel hasn't really popped off here in the US but is a favorite of professional chefs, as well as yours truly. Cookware startup Made In produces some excellent carbon steel cookware with prices starting around $99, but there are cheaper options out there. FAQs Should I worry about buying Teflon nonstick cookware? The Teflon brand stopped using PFOA, the offending chemical behind Teflon flu, in 2013. That means that it should be safe to use new Teflon cookware any way you see fit -- although it couldn't hurt to continue being cautious when using new nonstick cookware. Can I only catch Teflon flu from Teflon products? No. The name Teflon flu originates from the Teflon brand because they famously used PFOA chemicals in the process of creating its cookware before 2013. However, that doesn't mean your cookware is PFOA-free. If your cookware is created in the US, it should be free of harmful chemicals. But cheap companies and off-brands that create cookware in countries without PFOA bans often still use the chemical in their products, and those might still wind up in your hands.
Fox News
4 hours ago
- Fox News
Minnie Driver posts beach bikini photos from sizzling solo trip to Rome
Minnie Driver is enjoying some solo time at the beach. The 55-year-old "Good Will Hunting" actress posted a series of photos on Instagram Sunday from her solo vacation to Rome. In one of the photos, Driver lay on a lounge chair in a black bikini with high-waisted bottoms, which she paired with black sunglasses. In the next photo, Driver smiled into the camera as she took a selfie on the beach, this time adding an Armani sunhat to the mix to protect her skin. "Slightly ambivalent about being alone for this long , but the lady next to me took the very nice overhead shot showing off my @leftonfriday swimsuit and I swam for 1.5 miles until a lifeguard in a pedalo (❗️🫶🏼) arrived to ask me if I was ok," she wrote in the caption. "Something seemed to make sense to him when I told him I was British. I love my work and I miss my family, I suppose these things must just live side by side . #sunday #roma #seaside #isleybrothers." Many fans flooded the comments section with compliments for the actress, while others were impressed by her dedication to her work and fitness. "That swimsuit looks amazing on you, what a beautiful shot! Your dedication to swimming is inspiring, keep up the great work! It's tough being away from loved ones, but your work is impressive," one fan wrote in the comments section. A second fan wrote, "Another gorgeous swim suit 😍 you look amazing 🤩," while a third added, "Was just thinking of buying one of those swimsuits and now I absolutely will because you look so damn good!!! Hope you're well ❤️." This isn't the first time Driver has posted a swimsuit photo on social media. In August 2024, the actress shared a photo of herself in a black one-piece, posing in front of a green screen to make it seem as if she was at the beach, writing in the caption that the scenario had her questioning her sanity. Earlier that year, the actress opened up to The Sunday Times about the mistakes she made in her life, particularly with relationships. "If I look at my history, what it did was make me want to be married so much and then choose men who were so not the right men to be married to," Driver told The Sunday Times. "So, I would carry on longing to be married and to have that conservative version [of a relationship], find men who had no interest in that, and then if one did, run a mile. "The one time I was engaged it would have been, I think, the biggest mistake of my life." Driver was engaged to actor Josh Brolin from April 2001 to October of that year. Driver has never been married but has been in a relationship with writer and director Addison O'Dea since 2019, telling People in July 2024, "I could see what an amazing person he was from the minute I met him."
