Chianti Classico's Evolution: How Sangiovese Reflects Its Land

Forbes

31-05-2025

Vineyards in the Chianti Classico area are colored under the light of the sunset during the autumn ... More season. Greve in Chianti, Italy.
Understanding how a wine region evolves—vintage after vintage—is never simple. Grapes reflect not only weather, but also farming shifts, winemaking choices, and cultural change. For a grape like Sangiovese, whose character is exquisitely tuned to its environment, that evolution can be even more revealing. And in Chianti Classico, one of Italy's most historic regions, we're seeing a quiet but meaningful shift: producers leaning into transparency, elevating quality, and allowing the voice of Sangiovese to speak with more precision than ever before.
That's where the experts, and the annual rhythm of major regional tastings, come in. For Chianti Classico, that moment happens every February at Anteprime di Toscana, when an unparalleled range of producers gather to pour newly bottled (and often not-yet-bottled) wines for journalists, sommeliers, importers, and trade professionals. It's one of the rare opportunities to taste hundreds of wines side by side, providing a comprehensive snapshot of both the current vintage and where the region may be heading.
It usually takes some time for the dust to settle as critics, writers, and buyers process, synthesize, and publish their assessments. Now, a few months removed from the flurry of initial tasting reports, it feels like the right moment to step back and reflect—not just on the scores and headlines, but on what these early tastings actually reveal for those of us who drink, collect, and follow Chianti Classico.
An infinite lineup of Chianti Classico wines for the 2025 Anteprima tasting.
Anteprima isn't just about previewing wine, it's about checking the pulse of the region. It's where we see how producers are adapting to new climate challenges, refining their cellar practices, or leaning more into terroir transparency. And while many of the wines are early in their evolution, there's value in tasting youth. Like hearing the first few bars of a symphony, you may not get the full picture, but you'll sense tone, direction, and intent.
Annata 2023: In Infancy, But Promising
Tasting 2023 Annata wines offered a snapshot of freshness and energy. Still coming together in bottle or barrel, the wines nonetheless hinted at depth of fruit, lifted acidity, and a drink-now appeal that also promises complexity in the near term. For a vintage still unfolding, it offered a fair and encouraging preview of what's to come.
Why Riserva Wines Hit the Sweet Spot
While Gran Selezione garners the spotlight as Chianti Classico's top tier, Riserva wines quietly overdeliver. With longer aging than Annata and more flexibility than Gran Selezione, Riservas often offer the best of both worlds: complexity and accessibility. At this year's Anteprima, many Riservas struck a chord—wines with structure, soul, and a strong sense of identity that didn't need to shout.
The Soul of Sangiovese, in Every Curve of the Road
Sangiovese is a grape that mirrors the land around it with remarkable clarity. Sensitive to elevation, exposure, and soil, it can shift character from one hill to the next. In Chianti Classico, where a new ridge or forested slope appears around every turn in the road, this becomes part of the wine's identity. And the best expressions are beginning to showcase that sense of place with precision and pride.
Why Tasting Reports Matter
After every Anteprima, dozens of tasting reports flood the press. For collectors and sommeliers, they can be a reference point. But for most wine lovers, it's easy to feel overwhelmed. Instead of listing 50+ scores, I want to offer a curated handful of producers and wines that not only impressed technically, but emotionally. These are wines that stayed with me—not just for what was in the glass, but because of the story behind them.
And while I'm offering my own perspective here, I'd also point readers to the thoughtful work of others who have long followed this region: Michael Godel of Godello.ca, Michaela Morris at Decanter, Kevin Day of Opening a Bottle, Walter Speller at JancisRobinson.com, Antonio Galloni of Vinous, and the vintage overview from Club Oenologique. Their writing provides invaluable context and insight for anyone looking to dive deeper into Chianti Classico.
Tasting Chianti Classico's Future, One Sangiovese at a Time
With extensive expert analysis like these to consider, I felt it appropriate to highlight a few standout wines—bottles from producers I've had the opportunity to visit, and whose vineyards, people, and places offered a deeper connection to the wines themselves.
Wines That Resonate
I Fabbri (Lamole, Greve in Chianti) – Nestled in the high-altitude village of Lamole, I Fabbri crafts graceful, mineral-driven wines shaped by elevation and light. The 2021 Chianti Classico Riserva showed remarkable purity and lift, with floral aromatics and a savory, lingering finish.
Il Molino di Grace (Panzano in Chianti) – Combining traditional methods with sustainability, this historic estate captures the bold yet refined character of Panzano. The 2023 Chianti Classico displayed beautiful freshness and elegance, offering pure fruit and immediate charm.
Querciabella (Greve, Radda, Gaiole) – With organic and biodynamic vineyards across multiple UGAs, Querciabella champions purity and transparency in every bottle. The 2021 Chianti Classico Riserva displayed clarity and freshness with a layered, energetic finish.
Ricasoli (Gaiole in Chianti) – One of Italy's most historic estates, Ricasoli helped define the Chianti Classico style and continues to innovate across its expansive vineyards. Their 2022 Gran Selezione 'Castello di Brolio' was elegant and tightly wound, with graphite and red fruit depth.
Fattoria Tregole (Castellina in Chianti) – A charming hilltop estate in Castellina that delivers wines with a warm, balanced expression of Sangiovese. Their 2020 Riserva was inviting, with ripe cherry, dusty tannins, and soft spice.
Istine (Radda and Gaiole) – Focused on site-specific wines, Istine lets its vineyards speak for themselves through minimal intervention and clarity of fruit. The 2021 Radda bottling offered vivid acidity and crushed-stone minerality.
Castello di Ama (Gaiole in Chianti) – Known for its combination of contemporary art and traditional winemaking, Ama's wines are layered, elegant, and expressive of altitude. Their 2021 Gran Selezione 'San Lorenzo' was tightly knit, dark-toned, and incredibly polished.
Fontodi (Panzano in Chianti) – Set in the famed Conca d'Oro, Fontodi is a benchmark producer for bold yet polished Sangiovese, all organically grown. The 2021 Vigna del Sorbo Gran Selezione was powerful and age-worthy, bursting with dark fruit and velvety structure.
Castello di Volpaia (Radda in Chianti) – High in Radda's cooler hills, Volpaia combines historic charm with precision farming and organic certification. The 2021 Gran Selezione Il Puro Casanova offered bright red fruit, fine tannins, and lovely lift—an elegant snapshot of high-elevation Sangiovese.
Nardi Viticoltori (Radda in Chianti) – Based in Radda, Nardi Viticoltori continues to impress with its elegant, structured style. The 2022 Chianti Classico Riserva showed beautiful structure and depth, with finely integrated tannins and a long, graceful finish.
Final Thoughts
If Chianti Classico once lived in the shadow of its own stereotypes—rustic or simple, a table wine for casual occasions—its best wines today reflect something far more compelling. What these recent tastings reveal is a region steadily evolving, not through radical reinvention, but through refinement and renewed focus on what makes Sangiovese shine: place, purity, and personality. The future of Chianti Classico lies in this quiet evolution—one that rewards close attention, vintage after vintage.