Latest news with #Sangiovese
Forbes
4 days ago
- Business
- Forbes
Chianti Classico's Evolution: How Sangiovese Reflects Its Land
Vineyards in the Chianti Classico area are colored under the light of the sunset during the autumn ... More season. Greve in Chianti, Italy. Understanding how a wine region evolves—vintage after vintage—is never simple. Grapes reflect not only weather, but also farming shifts, winemaking choices, and cultural change. For a grape like Sangiovese, whose character is exquisitely tuned to its environment, that evolution can be even more revealing. And in Chianti Classico, one of Italy's most historic regions, we're seeing a quiet but meaningful shift: producers leaning into transparency, elevating quality, and allowing the voice of Sangiovese to speak with more precision than ever before. That's where the experts, and the annual rhythm of major regional tastings, come in. For Chianti Classico, that moment happens every February at Anteprime di Toscana, when an unparalleled range of producers gather to pour newly bottled (and often not-yet-bottled) wines for journalists, sommeliers, importers, and trade professionals. It's one of the rare opportunities to taste hundreds of wines side by side, providing a comprehensive snapshot of both the current vintage and where the region may be heading. It usually takes some time for the dust to settle as critics, writers, and buyers process, synthesize, and publish their assessments. Now, a few months removed from the flurry of initial tasting reports, it feels like the right moment to step back and reflect—not just on the scores and headlines, but on what these early tastings actually reveal for those of us who drink, collect, and follow Chianti Classico. An infinite lineup of Chianti Classico wines for the 2025 Anteprima tasting. Anteprima isn't just about previewing wine, it's about checking the pulse of the region. It's where we see how producers are adapting to new climate challenges, refining their cellar practices, or leaning more into terroir transparency. And while many of the wines are early in their evolution, there's value in tasting youth. Like hearing the first few bars of a symphony, you may not get the full picture, but you'll sense tone, direction, and intent. Annata 2023: In Infancy, But Promising Tasting 2023 Annata wines offered a snapshot of freshness and energy. Still coming together in bottle or barrel, the wines nonetheless hinted at depth of fruit, lifted acidity, and a drink-now appeal that also promises complexity in the near term. For a vintage still unfolding, it offered a fair and encouraging preview of what's to come. Why Riserva Wines Hit the Sweet Spot While Gran Selezione garners the spotlight as Chianti Classico's top tier, Riserva wines quietly overdeliver. With longer aging than Annata and more flexibility than Gran Selezione, Riservas often offer the best of both worlds: complexity and accessibility. At this year's Anteprima, many Riservas struck a chord—wines with structure, soul, and a strong sense of identity that didn't need to shout. The Soul of Sangiovese, in Every Curve of the Road Sangiovese is a grape that mirrors the land around it with remarkable clarity. Sensitive to elevation, exposure, and soil, it can shift character from one hill to the next. In Chianti Classico, where a new ridge or forested slope appears around every turn in the road, this becomes part of the wine's identity. And the best expressions are beginning to showcase that sense of place with precision and pride. Why Tasting Reports Matter After every Anteprima, dozens of tasting reports flood the press. For collectors and sommeliers, they can be a reference point. But for most wine lovers, it's easy to feel overwhelmed. Instead of listing 50+ scores, I want to offer a curated handful of producers and wines that not only impressed technically, but emotionally. These are wines that stayed with me—not just for what was in the glass, but because of the story behind them. And while I'm offering my own perspective here, I'd also point readers to the thoughtful work of others who have long followed this region: Michael Godel of Michaela Morris at Decanter, Kevin Day of Opening a Bottle, Walter Speller at Antonio Galloni of Vinous, and the vintage overview from Club Oenologique. Their writing provides invaluable context and insight for anyone looking to dive deeper into Chianti Classico. Tasting Chianti Classico's Future, One Sangiovese at a Time With extensive expert analysis like these to consider, I felt it appropriate to highlight a few standout wines—bottles from producers I've had the opportunity to visit, and whose vineyards, people, and places offered a deeper connection to the wines themselves. Wines That Resonate I Fabbri (Lamole, Greve in Chianti) – Nestled in the high-altitude village of Lamole, I Fabbri crafts graceful, mineral-driven wines shaped by elevation and light. The 2021 Chianti Classico Riserva showed remarkable purity and lift, with floral aromatics and a savory, lingering finish. Il Molino di Grace (Panzano in Chianti) – Combining traditional methods with sustainability, this historic estate captures the bold yet refined character of Panzano. The 2023 Chianti Classico displayed beautiful freshness and elegance, offering pure fruit and immediate charm. Querciabella (Greve, Radda, Gaiole) – With organic and biodynamic vineyards across multiple UGAs, Querciabella champions purity and transparency in every bottle. The 2021 Chianti Classico Riserva displayed clarity and freshness with a layered, energetic finish. Ricasoli (Gaiole in Chianti) – One of Italy's most historic estates, Ricasoli helped define the Chianti Classico style and continues to innovate across its expansive vineyards. Their 2022 Gran Selezione 'Castello di Brolio' was elegant and tightly wound, with graphite and red fruit depth. Fattoria Tregole (Castellina in Chianti) – A charming hilltop estate in Castellina that delivers wines with a warm, balanced expression of Sangiovese. Their 2020 Riserva was inviting, with ripe cherry, dusty tannins, and soft spice. Istine (Radda and Gaiole) – Focused on site-specific wines, Istine lets its vineyards speak for themselves through minimal intervention and clarity of fruit. The 2021 Radda bottling offered vivid acidity and crushed-stone minerality. Castello di Ama (Gaiole in Chianti) – Known for its combination of contemporary art and traditional winemaking, Ama's wines are layered, elegant, and expressive of altitude. Their 2021 Gran Selezione 'San Lorenzo' was tightly knit, dark-toned, and incredibly polished. Fontodi (Panzano in Chianti) – Set in the famed Conca d'Oro, Fontodi is a benchmark producer for bold yet polished Sangiovese, all organically grown. The 2021 Vigna del Sorbo Gran Selezione was powerful and age-worthy, bursting with dark fruit and velvety structure. Castello di Volpaia (Radda in Chianti) – High in Radda's cooler hills, Volpaia combines historic charm with precision farming and organic certification. The 2021 Gran Selezione Il Puro Casanova offered bright red fruit, fine tannins, and lovely lift—an elegant snapshot of high-elevation Sangiovese. Nardi Viticoltori (Radda in Chianti) – Based in Radda, Nardi Viticoltori continues to impress with its elegant, structured style. The 2022 Chianti Classico Riserva showed beautiful structure and depth, with finely integrated tannins and a long, graceful finish. Final Thoughts If Chianti Classico once lived in the shadow of its own stereotypes—rustic or simple, a table wine for casual occasions—its best wines today reflect something far more compelling. What these recent tastings reveal is a region steadily evolving, not through radical reinvention, but through refinement and renewed focus on what makes Sangiovese shine: place, purity, and personality. The future of Chianti Classico lies in this quiet evolution—one that rewards close attention, vintage after vintage.
Forbes
16-04-2025
- Business
- Forbes
Need Easter Wine Tips? 5 Chicago Somms Offer Suggestions
Looking for an Easter wine to serve or share? These experts from Chicago's dining scene—long celebrated for its drinks and culinary innovation and excellence—have it covered. Hear from the city's distinguished sommeliers and beverage directors, who bring exceptional wine knowledge and thoughtful pairing expertise to the Easter table. From Michelin-starred establishments to beloved neighborhood spots, Chicago's wine professionals are renowned for their ability to discover remarkable bottles and create memorable, friendly dining experiences. Pro guidance is particularly valuable during holiday seasons when hosts and guests alike seek to elevate gatherings with the perfect wine selections. Discover expert insights from Chicago's leading sommeliers on selecting the ideal wines to complement your Easter feast. Kyle Davidson, beverage director at Rose Mary and il Carciofo, suggests starting Easter celebrations with sparkling wine. "At il Carciofo, we recommend Franciacorta—an Italian sparkling wine crafted using the same grapes and techniques as champagne," he notes. This versatile choice can be enjoyed on its own or softened with freshly squeezed juice for brunch pairings. Davidson's recommended bottle is Ricci Curbastro Extra Brut. Davidson offers thoughtful guidance for the whole of the Easter meal. "As the meal progresses and richer dishes are served, transition to a light, vibrant red," he advises. "Served slightly chilled, this wine effortlessly bridges the gap between canapés—such as deviled eggs—and proteins like poultry, ham, or lamb." To fit this bill, he suggests M. & C. Lapierre Morgon 2022 for a Beaujolais or Alois Lageder Schiava 2023 from Italy's stunning Alto Adige region. For a table set with bolder reds, Davidson recommends a Super Tuscan—a blend of Sangiovese and Bordeaux varietals, which he says "offers the depth of dark fruit and tannins associated with Bordeaux grapes, balanced by Sangiovese's bright acidity, red fruit and herbal undertones." Antinori 'Tignanello' Sangiovese 2021—a blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc—is one of the classic and coveted Super Tuscans, and it's on the menu at il Carciofo. For brunch occasions, Scott Stroemer, beverage director at Galit and Cafe Yaya, endorses a sparkling option from an unexpected region: Keush, 'Ultra' Blanc de Noir Brut Nature from Vayots Dzor in Armenia. 'It comes from the most interesting winemaker I know, Vahe Keushguerian,' he adds. Stroemer says this is his favorite sparkling wine from the Middle East, describing it as "dry as a bone, with a nose of wildflowers, tart green strawberry and green apple on the palate." He suggests that this bottle pairs wonderfully with seafood and fried foods. For a bright and structured California red, Stroemer suggests Terah Wine Co. Sangiovese Mokelumne River 2023 for heavier Easter meats like lamb, roast poultry and ham. 'Sangiovese in California has a quirky history as of recently, with a young generation of California winemakers who are embracing the California-ness of California Sangiovese,' says Stroemer. He praises this bottle as one of his favorites, offering "delicate, pretty red fruit, great acid and soft tannic backbone." Chicago wine pros share their expertise to help you create a memorable Easter experience, blending tradition with the sophistication of perfectly matched wines. Jake Bennie, wine director at Sepia, recommends white wines to pair with seasonal ingredients transitioning from winter to spring. For a winter citrus salad with endive, he suggests whites made from thick-skinned grapes that offer both bitterness and acidity. The first bottle he goes to is Eido da Salgosa Albariño 2022 from the vibrant Rías Baixas region. He says it is highly aromatic with elevated acidity and "a touch of salinity coming from the coast of northwest Spain, showing a lot of citrus fruit like tangerine, orange blossom, grapefruit and lime." Bennie also suggests Domaine Sigalas Assyrtiko 2022 from Santorini, Greece. This bottle is packed with "powerful minerality" with "beautiful lemon zest, fresh apricot, ginger, radish and pronounced acidity," according to Bennie. Spring marks a perfect time for rosé wines. Bennie recommends Domaine du Gros Noré Rosé 2023 from Bandol in Provence, calling it a "dynamite pairing" with spring crudité. 'Honoré Pascal used to give the family's fruit to other powerhouse producers in the area like Domaine Ott and Château de Pibarnon and only made wine for the family until his son Alain took over in 1997 and created Domaine du Gros Noré,' shares Bennie. He says this rosé, made primarily from Mourvèdre with Cinsault, Grenache and Clairette, "shows tart berry fruit, fleshy stone fruits and wild herbs that pair wonderfully with spring vegetables.' Louis Fabbrini, sommelier at Smyth + The Loyalist, provides several thoughtful pairings for traditional Easter main courses. For classic ham with brown sugar glaze, Fabbrini suggests Domaine de Bichery 'Les Fontaines' NV, made by Raphaël and Hannah Piconnet who farm six parcels slopes above Neuville-sur-Seine, vines originally planted by Raphaël's grandfather. This is a beautiful rosé Champagne, which Fabbrini deliciously describes as bursting with "bright acidity and sappy red fruit [that] play off the ham's brown-sugar glaze, complicating and expanding its sweetness, pulling forward flavors like wildflower honey and orange peel." For roast lamb with herbs, Fabbrini offers two options. The first is Chavost Coteaux Champenois Rouge 2022, a still wine from Champagne blending Pinot Noir with Pinot Meunier. This bottle delivers "spice, twitchy acidity and subtle herbal quality that complement the lamb's savory depth, peppery crust and gentle gaminess,' says Fabbrini. He offers a bit of the wine's backstory: 'Fabian Daviaux convinced a cautious Champagne co-op in Chavot-Courcourt to farm organically, nudging tradition forward and championing wines made without sulfur or additives.' He also suggests Hiyu Wine Farm 'Columba' 2022 from Hood River Valley, Oregon, a field blend mostly of Tempranillo with other Spanish and Portuguese varieties. 'China Tresemer and Nate Ready practice regenerative agriculture on their mixed farm in Oregon's Hood River Valley, cultivating vines alongside livestock, orchards, and gardens,' says Fabbrini. The somm describes this as an intriguing wine "caught between a lightly extracted red and a deeply structured rosé" with "savory depth and earthy complexity [that] echo the lamb's gaminess and herbal crust." Ted Rink, sommelier at BLVD Steakhouse, believes that Pinot Noir can beautifully complement Easter dinner. He notes that "Pinot Noir can straddle a line with lighter elements and deeper, more complex flavors." He suggests that the fresh herbal profile of Pinot Noir are a solid reminder of warmer spring weather ahead as things start to take off in the garden. His recommendations include Whitcraft Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir 2022 and Brewer-Clifton Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir 2023, which he describes as "even a touch snappier" out of the two Easter wine recommendations.
Forbes
28-03-2025
- Climate
- Forbes
How An Obsession With Wine Leads To Innovation Using Ancient Grapes In This Part Of Tuscany
The San Felice vineyard Borgo San Felice This past fall when the Montalcino province of Tuscany was hit by heavy rains and flooding, the agricultural area risked its most important, lucrative and storied product: it's grape vines. Climate change's impact on wine has become a more frequent phenomenon, preying on grapevines. The violent changes in weather patterns and more frequent catastrophic events like unseasonal frosts, drought, hail, and fire all pose a threat to the existence of small growers and producers. And then there is another element, sales are down for wine, perhaps because of the new sober curious movement, or perhaps because a new generation of possible drinkers just have not soaked in just all the layers of wine. Perhaps, it is the earthy beauty and history of wine that has not been properly told to transfer just how significant wine really is. Imbibing, an ancient ritual that has been loved for centuries tells a story not only about people but of the land where those grapes come from. Since the medieval era, Chianti has been produced in the Tuscan hills. The original recipe was created by Bettino Ricasoli, the then Grand Duke of Tuscany. Remembered as a real Renaissance man, a political leader known for being the country's second prime minister and a lover of alchemy. But after withdrawing from politics, he retired back to his family's vineyards around the Castello di Brolio, between Siena and Arezzo. It was during this new phase, he became obsessed with creating a wine with universal appeal developing the original formula for Chianti. His original concoction championed the use of Tuscany's native grape varieties, a blend that was composed mostly of Sangiovese, Canaiolo, and a touch of Malvasia Bianca. The exact formula he created then is not known, but this formula created the groundwork for the version of Chianti Classico synonymous with this mystical land. Borgo San Felice Borgo San Felice That is the same philosophy that embodies the sense of experimentation and drive to uphold the terroir at the San Felice estate conceived and protected by oenologist Leonardo Bellaccini. The intention of the research done at San Felice is, 'at its core, to enhance the value of Sangiovese,' explains Bellaccini. The painstaking work has also been supported by the universities of Pisa and Florence leading to the rediscovery of native grapes. Among the groves, Bellaccini explains, is where he too grew up, nourished by the same elements as the sangiovese grapes, its all quite romantic really. There is a sense of pride and wonder at his own story of how he began his career years ago before it was as glamorous, lucrative, and exciting as it has become known in the world of wine afficionados. At the time, it was seen as agrarian work more than artistry. 'You know, quality is born in the vineyard. But even before that, it is born in the mind of an entrepreneur. If an entrepreneur doesn't think of the long term, you can't even enter the luxury wine sector.' It is the quiet work, the humble work of the land, the pruning, and the protection of these plants year after year that creates a sip in a glass that can move you, and bring you somewhere. To think how crowded the wine and spirit space has become also means that knowing the story of a wine producer, the ethics they uphold is even more paramount in choosing to purchase a bottle. 'You have to be obsessed with wine and you have to also believe in it. If you want to enter this environment and create something unusual, you have to do something that is a step ahead of others and think outside of the box,' Bellaccini says. Part of the estates' pride is the fact that they continue to make Vigorello, which was the first super Tuscan in the world. A super Tuscan is a term coined in the 70s and 80s to define a red wine from Tuscany that is not bound by the restrains of indigenous Italian grape varieties alone but rather embraces international grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot that create a single-varietal. In order to maintain this identity rooted in honoring the native grapes and the longevity of the land. The grapes are vinified using unique methods that respect the type of grape and final flavor Bellaccini is trying to achieve. Using the native varieties and harkening historic flavors is an exciting process to capture the flavor of this land. The sorting process is painstaking, grape by grape is hand-selected based on color. Even an optical sorter is used. This more precise and laborious process of first-choice grapes is used for producing fine wines, while the second-choice grapes are used for young wines. In entering the cellar where the wine is pressed, a waft of unctuous freshly pressed grapes permeates your nose, the stone walls absorb the years of wine production. 'The musts are transferred to stainless steel tanks where vinification takes place.' To walk through the rows and rows of vats where this alchemy begins is mystical. The scent is intoxicating. But what is more enthralling is to think how the objective Ricasoli set out to achieve has not changed, the methods though, have drastically evolved. Besides the wine offer, a tradition literally from the roots of these lands, Borgo San Felice offers more than a hotel experience. It is literally a medieval village repurposing the rooms as rooms where guests can sleep, shops, and restaurants. A sort of 'scattered hotel' allowing guests unique and storied rooms for people to enjoy. Risotto made with chianti is one of the signature dishes you can devour here. There is a kitchen garden with hens that supply the hotel's Michelin-starred Poggio Rosso restaurant and the less formal Osteria del Grigio that draws locals for aperitivo and al fresco dining under grape leaves. But what is even more beautiful, is that local differently abled men and women take part in the harvesting and maintenance of this garden. 'We want to be a place that is not only a destination for foreigners, but also a place for the locals to be part of maintaining this unique identity in the Tuscan hills.'
