Taste of resilience: Gaza's beloved ice cream shop reopens

The National

16-02-2025

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In the heart of Gaza city, surrounded by apocalyptic destruction, the renowned Kazem Ice Cream Cafe has opened its doors once more to Gazans – eager for a taste of their favourite frozen treats and beloved traditional cold lemon drink barad.
At a time of growing fear that the fragile ceasefire between Israel and Hamas will collapse, and inflammatory comments by US President Donald Trump about taking over the war-battered enclave, Gazans are finding solace in small signs of normal life returning.
The ice cream shop is a cornerstone of Gaza's culinary culture and has been serving generations for more than half a century. What began as a small shop has grown into a symbol of Palestinian tradition and resilience.
'I was so eager to reopen the shop after I returned from the south,' Iyad Abu Shaban, 33, one of Kazem's owners, told The National.
The cafe had closed when the Israel-Gaza war began on October 7, 2023. A Hamas-led attack on Israeli communities killed about 1,200 people, with 250 abducted. Israel's subsequent strikes and ground offensive have killed more than 48,200 Palestinians and laid waste to much of Gaza.
Reopening was not an easy task. 'It took about 10 days to prepare the shop again. We faced major issues like sanitation problems, electricity shortages, water disruptions and removing rubble from the partially destroyed areas of the shop,' Mr Abu Shaban explained.
The rising cost of operations pose another challenge. 'Running the shop requires 500 shekels ($135) per hour just for solar power. The price of ingredients has skyrocketed. I used to sell a cup of barad for one shekel, but now it costs three shekels,' he added.
For many in Gaza, the return of Kazem is more than just a business reopening, it is a testament to the city's resilience. Located in the heart of Gaza's famed Al Rimal neighbourhood, the shop became a landmark over time, visited by people from other parts of Gaza and from outside of the enclave. Other popular items on its menu include sahlab – a creamy drink flavoured with cinnamon – and waffles.
'When I heard Kazem had reopened, I rushed to come. I was so happy that I could finally drink my favourite barad again,' said Ruba Abed Al Raheem, who like most Palestinians had been displaced by the fighting, seeking shelter with her family in the south.
She returned to Gaza city to find her home destroyed but takes some comfort in the familiar flavour of the iced lemon drink the ice cream shop invented.
'Kazem is a foundation of Gaza's essentials, and its reopening is a sign that Gaza, too, will come back. This is more than just a shop; it's a symbol of hope that the rubble will not define us. From this destruction, we will rebuild our city again,' said Ms Al Raheem.
Fellow resident Soad Ibrahim said she was amazed to find Kazem was actually open. She had walked for 20 minutes from Al Nasr neighbourhood where she lives, to see for herself that the shop was indeed back in business.
'When I got here, I was surprised – it was really open! The place was full of people, all eager to taste their favourite drink after 15 months of war,' she told The National.
Ms Ibrahim admitted that she had been sceptical when her cousin told her Kazem had reopened. 'I had to come see it with my own eyes,' she said.
But walking through Al Rimal was a sad experience too for Ms Ibrahim, as she couldn't help but compare the now-ruined neighbourhood to the vibrant, bustling centre it had been before the war.
'Everything is different now. We used to come here to enjoy our time. During Eid and Ramadan, this place was always full of people, laughter and life,' she said.
Ms Ibrahim never left the north, choosing to stay on, despite the destruction around her. She previously avoided walking through the streets to escape the painful sight of ruins where life once thrived. But Kazem's reopening was different, it was a reason to step outside, she said.
Ms Al Raheem vowed to remain in Gaza city, whatever the future may hold. 'No matter what happens now, I won't leave the north. I'll stay here because those who stayed and never left the city have taught us the true meaning of steadfastness,' she said.
One scoop of ice cream or one sip of barad at a time, Gazans say hope is returning. 'I am so happy that Gaza is waking up again. No external force can erase our city. We will stay here, and we will not leave,' Ms Ibrahim said.