Latest news with #KazemIceCreamCafe
The National
07-03-2025
- Entertainment
- The National
A taste of Palestine in the UAE as Gaza's classic barrad drink finds a new market
Icy, zesty and sweet. These were the flavours I picked up on one afternoon when trying barrad, a refreshing slushy ice cream and staple of Gaza street food culture that is now available to try in the UAE. I was at Cinema Akil in Dubai where its director, Khalid Al Sabi, was soft launching his concept at Quoz Arts Fest one weekend. 'I tried it, loved it and after a few months decided to go for it,' Al Sabi tells The National, explaining the inspiration behind bringing the authentic flavours of the drink to the UAE. 'I wanted to celebrate and preserve something authentically Palestinian, giving wider access to a part of our history. 'It's exactly the same recipe. I've had people from Gaza verify it personally – some even cried, as if tasting a cherished memory. It means so much to people.' Barrad, a lemon-flavoured slushy drink, is sold across Gaza and enjoyed on hot summer days, on the beach or at restaurants, alone or with a falafel sandwich. It's been a staple of the enclave's street food culture for decades, though its origins are unclear and disputed. Since at least the 1950s, barrad has been a quintessential aspect of life in Gaza. With the strip known for its warm and humid summers, the barrad came from a need to provide a refreshing beverage, while in the process becoming an essential aspect of social life from north to south. 'The most famous place to get barrad is Kazem Ice Cream Cafe as well as a few others around Gaza,' Al Sabi explains, noting that stores like Kazem Ice Cream Cafe would usually source their barrad ingredients from street vendors and other shops around the enclave. Kazem Ice Cream Cafe recently reopened to joyous crowds after 15 months of war in the northern Gaza neighbourhood of Rimal. Made from lemon, banana essence, sugar, water, crushed ice and what Al Sabi calls 'a secret ingredient', the entrepreneur was careful in his pursuit to bring the right taste of the slushy drink to customers in the UAE. 'I worked with several people and vendors to source the right ingredients from abroad. It was crucial to be as authentic as possible because of how important this treat is for so many people,' he explains. The drink comes in different variations – most offering more of a slushy consistency. All present the same neon yellow colour that the drink is famous for. Al Sabi's version has more of an ice cream consistency to it, thick and creamy, but as rich and refreshing as promised. 'I introduced the concept in October at a small event in Dubai, with a few other pop-ups last year,' says Al Sabi. 'Now we're selling off-counter in Cinema Akil, and I'm hoping to sell off-counter at other locations soon.' Pop-ups will continue across Dubai and beyond, and recently came to an event at 421 Arts Campus in Abu Dhabi last month. Al Sabi is expecting a very busy few months, continuing to sell his barrad at Alserkal Avenue throughout the month of Ramadan. He has also just confirmed a collaboration with dessert shop Omar Odali in Dubai, and will be participating at the upcoming Bred Festival Abu Dhabi in April. In the future, he aims to open a full ice cream shop or permanent location and has plans to expand even further if all goes well, affirming that 'the sky is the limit'. 'More so, I want people to buy barrad because they genuinely enjoy it, not just because it is from Gaza,' he says. 'I have this very high sensitivity to commercialising suffering, which I want to avoid here. I'd like barrad to eventually become a top of mind Palestinian or Arabic sweet for its taste, and its taste alone.' Alongside barrad, Al Sabi is pursuing a research project into the history of the chilled treat, including its origins, original vendors and archival images by hiring researchers on the ground in Gaza. 'There is very little documentation about barrad. You would even struggle trying to find a picture of Kazem Ice Cream Cafe from 50 years ago. That's what I'm trying to find – it'll be an ongoing programme,' he explains, as he aims to bring his project full circle from past to present. Alongside barrad, he's also launching Dukkaneh, a website and ecosystem that brings together Palestinian businesses and vendors all in one place. 'This is something I've been working on for quite some time – a retail concept that will bring together brands, small business, SMEs, artists and artisans, selling everything from groceries and posters, to fashion and accessories, on one online platform,' he says. All products on Dukkaneh will be made by Palestinians, as well as the broader diaspora, specifically from across the camps in Lebanon, Jordan and Egypt. 'I want people to feel the impact of their work, to open new markets for Palestinians, and to create thriving channels to sustain and innovate,' he says.
The National
16-02-2025
- Business
- The National
Taste of resilience: Gaza's beloved ice cream shop reopens
Live updates: Follow the latest on Israel-Gaza In the heart of Gaza city, surrounded by apocalyptic destruction, the renowned Kazem Ice Cream Cafe has opened its doors once more to Gazans – eager for a taste of their favourite frozen treats and beloved traditional cold lemon drink barad. At a time of growing fear that the fragile ceasefire between Israel and Hamas will collapse, and inflammatory comments by US President Donald Trump about taking over the war-battered enclave, Gazans are finding solace in small signs of normal life returning. The ice cream shop is a cornerstone of Gaza's culinary culture and has been serving generations for more than half a century. What began as a small shop has grown into a symbol of Palestinian tradition and resilience. 'I was so eager to reopen the shop after I returned from the south,' Iyad Abu Shaban, 33, one of Kazem's owners, told The National. The cafe had closed when the Israel-Gaza war began on October 7, 2023. A Hamas-led attack on Israeli communities killed about 1,200 people, with 250 abducted. Israel's subsequent strikes and ground offensive have killed more than 48,200 Palestinians and laid waste to much of Gaza. Reopening was not an easy task. 'It took about 10 days to prepare the shop again. We faced major issues like sanitation problems, electricity shortages, water disruptions and removing rubble from the partially destroyed areas of the shop,' Mr Abu Shaban explained. The rising cost of operations pose another challenge. 'Running the shop requires 500 shekels ($135) per hour just for solar power. The price of ingredients has skyrocketed. I used to sell a cup of barad for one shekel, but now it costs three shekels,' he added. For many in Gaza, the return of Kazem is more than just a business reopening, it is a testament to the city's resilience. Located in the heart of Gaza's famed Al Rimal neighbourhood, the shop became a landmark over time, visited by people from other parts of Gaza and from outside of the enclave. Other popular items on its menu include sahlab – a creamy drink flavoured with cinnamon – and waffles. 'When I heard Kazem had reopened, I rushed to come. I was so happy that I could finally drink my favourite barad again,' said Ruba Abed Al Raheem, who like most Palestinians had been displaced by the fighting, seeking shelter with her family in the south. She returned to Gaza city to find her home destroyed but takes some comfort in the familiar flavour of the iced lemon drink the ice cream shop invented. 'Kazem is a foundation of Gaza's essentials, and its reopening is a sign that Gaza, too, will come back. This is more than just a shop; it's a symbol of hope that the rubble will not define us. From this destruction, we will rebuild our city again,' said Ms Al Raheem. Fellow resident Soad Ibrahim said she was amazed to find Kazem was actually open. She had walked for 20 minutes from Al Nasr neighbourhood where she lives, to see for herself that the shop was indeed back in business. 'When I got here, I was surprised – it was really open! The place was full of people, all eager to taste their favourite drink after 15 months of war,' she told The National. Ms Ibrahim admitted that she had been sceptical when her cousin told her Kazem had reopened. 'I had to come see it with my own eyes,' she said. But walking through Al Rimal was a sad experience too for Ms Ibrahim, as she couldn't help but compare the now-ruined neighbourhood to the vibrant, bustling centre it had been before the war. 'Everything is different now. We used to come here to enjoy our time. During Eid and Ramadan, this place was always full of people, laughter and life,' she said. Ms Ibrahim never left the north, choosing to stay on, despite the destruction around her. She previously avoided walking through the streets to escape the painful sight of ruins where life once thrived. But Kazem's reopening was different, it was a reason to step outside, she said. Ms Al Raheem vowed to remain in Gaza city, whatever the future may hold. 'No matter what happens now, I won't leave the north. I'll stay here because those who stayed and never left the city have taught us the true meaning of steadfastness,' she said. One scoop of ice cream or one sip of barad at a time, Gazans say hope is returning. 'I am so happy that Gaza is waking up again. No external force can erase our city. We will stay here, and we will not leave,' Ms Ibrahim said.
