A taste of Palestine in the UAE as Gaza's classic barrad drink finds a new market
Icy, zesty and sweet. These were the flavours I picked up on one afternoon when trying barrad, a refreshing slushy ice cream and staple of Gaza street food culture that is now available to try in the UAE. I was at Cinema Akil in Dubai where its director, Khalid Al Sabi, was soft launching his concept at Quoz Arts Fest one weekend. 'I tried it, loved it and after a few months decided to go for it,' Al Sabi tells The National, explaining the inspiration behind bringing the authentic flavours of the drink to the UAE. 'I wanted to celebrate and preserve something authentically Palestinian, giving wider access to a part of our history. 'It's exactly the same recipe. I've had people from Gaza verify it personally – some even cried, as if tasting a cherished memory. It means so much to people.' Barrad, a lemon-flavoured slushy drink, is sold across Gaza and enjoyed on hot summer days, on the beach or at restaurants, alone or with a falafel sandwich. It's been a staple of the enclave's street food culture for decades, though its origins are unclear and disputed. Since at least the 1950s, barrad has been a quintessential aspect of life in Gaza. With the strip known for its warm and humid summers, the barrad came from a need to provide a refreshing beverage, while in the process becoming an essential aspect of social life from north to south. 'The most famous place to get barrad is Kazem Ice Cream Cafe as well as a few others around Gaza,' Al Sabi explains, noting that stores like Kazem Ice Cream Cafe would usually source their barrad ingredients from street vendors and other shops around the enclave. Kazem Ice Cream Cafe recently reopened to joyous crowds after 15 months of war in the northern Gaza neighbourhood of Rimal. Made from lemon, banana essence, sugar, water, crushed ice and what Al Sabi calls 'a secret ingredient', the entrepreneur was careful in his pursuit to bring the right taste of the slushy drink to customers in the UAE. 'I worked with several people and vendors to source the right ingredients from abroad. It was crucial to be as authentic as possible because of how important this treat is for so many people,' he explains. The drink comes in different variations – most offering more of a slushy consistency. All present the same neon yellow colour that the drink is famous for. Al Sabi's version has more of an ice cream consistency to it, thick and creamy, but as rich and refreshing as promised. 'I introduced the concept in October at a small event in Dubai, with a few other pop-ups last year,' says Al Sabi. 'Now we're selling off-counter in Cinema Akil, and I'm hoping to sell off-counter at other locations soon.' Pop-ups will continue across Dubai and beyond, and recently came to an event at 421 Arts Campus in Abu Dhabi last month. Al Sabi is expecting a very busy few months, continuing to sell his barrad at Alserkal Avenue throughout the month of Ramadan. He has also just confirmed a collaboration with dessert shop Omar Odali in Dubai, and will be participating at the upcoming Bred Festival Abu Dhabi in April. In the future, he aims to open a full ice cream shop or permanent location and has plans to expand even further if all goes well, affirming that 'the sky is the limit'. 'More so, I want people to buy barrad because they genuinely enjoy it, not just because it is from Gaza,' he says. 'I have this very high sensitivity to commercialising suffering, which I want to avoid here. I'd like barrad to eventually become a top of mind Palestinian or Arabic sweet for its taste, and its taste alone.' Alongside barrad, Al Sabi is pursuing a research project into the history of the chilled treat, including its origins, original vendors and archival images by hiring researchers on the ground in Gaza. 'There is very little documentation about barrad. You would even struggle trying to find a picture of Kazem Ice Cream Cafe from 50 years ago. That's what I'm trying to find – it'll be an ongoing programme,' he explains, as he aims to bring his project full circle from past to present. Alongside barrad, he's also launching Dukkaneh, a website and ecosystem that brings together Palestinian businesses and vendors all in one place. 'This is something I've been working on for quite some time – a retail concept that will bring together brands, small business, SMEs, artists and artisans, selling everything from groceries and posters, to fashion and accessories, on one online platform,' he says. All products on Dukkaneh will be made by Palestinians, as well as the broader diaspora, specifically from across the camps in Lebanon, Jordan and Egypt. 'I want people to feel the impact of their work, to open new markets for Palestinians, and to create thriving channels to sustain and innovate,' he says.
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