Celebrating 550 years of modern chess

Hindustan Times

a day ago

The air in the grand hall of Valencia's La Nau cultural space is abuzz with excitement. Chess pieces — from ornate artefacts to contemporary competition sets — line the exhibition cases. It's May 15 and I'm 7,000 kilometres from home attending this landmark celebration: the 550th anniversary of modern chess. The venue is adorned with banners depicting the queen chess piece and the number '550' in elegant typography. For chess enthusiasts, this Spanish coastal city is hallowed ground. It was here, in 1475, that the queen piece was first granted her sweeping powers, transforming what was once a plodding medieval game into the dynamic strategic battle we recognise today.
'This is not just a Spanish celebration, but a global one,' says Maria Ángeles Vidal Ruiz, Managing Director of the Municipal Sports Foundation of Valencia. 'When the queen gained her power to move any number of squares in any direction, chess accelerated. Strategy fundamentally changed. The game became more aggressive, more beautiful.' The transformation was immortalized in the poem Scachs d'amor (Chess of Love), written by three Valencian nobles, Francesc de Castellví, Narcís Vinyoles, and Bernat Fenollar. 'Written in 1475, the poem was printed here because some of the first printing machines in Spain were in Valencia,' says Miguel Angel Perez Alba, Brand & Markets Director at Visit Valencia, who adds some crucial historical context.
During my visit to the first floor of La Nau, a historic structure built in 1497 and remodelled in 1830 that was declared an Asset of Cultural Interest in 1981, I discover the library that houses treasures of chess history. Among them is a volume from 1561 that discusses chess strategy and rules. Vidal explains its significance: 'This book is very important for us because it's a part of Spanish history. But for Anand and other global chess players, it's very important because they have played a lot of matches with these rules.'
In the 15th-century, chess flourished in the city's aristocratic circles. The most likely venue for royal games was the Royal Palace of Valencia (Palau Reial de València), the primary residence of the Aragonese monarchs. Demolished in the 19th century, the site now houses the Jardines del Real (Royal Gardens). Noble families like the Borjas (Borgias) also hosted chess games in their private palaces, which served as hubs for humanist discussion and intellectual pursuits.
The centrepiece of my visit is an exclusive conversation with five-time World Chess Champion Viswanathan Anand. Meeting him in the quiet courtyard of a restored medieval building, I'm struck by his unassuming demeanour. When I ask about Valencia's gift to chess — the powerful queen — and whether the game would be as captivating without it, his response is immediate: 'Definitely, the game became more dynamic because we suddenly had a very, very powerful piece in the form of the queen.' On the east-to-west journey of chess from India's chaturanga to Valencia's modern version, he offers a perspective that bridges cultures: 'You know, India invents chess and the idea slowly spreads elsewhere. And in a nice twist, the title comes back to India...'
His eyes light up when I ask him which opening he would choose if he were to challenge Francesc Vicent, the Valencian author who wrote the first treatise about chess using the present-day moves for the queen and the bishop. The now lost text was printed in Valencia on May 15, 1495. 'What's interesting about someone like Vicent is that he seems almost like a pioneer, experimenting with ideas much like an artist writing a poem. Of course, the theoretical understanding back then was still quite rudimentary, but that's part of the charm. Their curiosity was boundless, even with limited tools.'
Our conversation turns to women in chess and the symbolism of the queen's power. 'Hopefully it parallels the fact that women play an equal role more and more,' he says.
In response to a question about playing blindfolded against Spanish chess player and author of unknown identity, Rey Enigma, while narrating his thought process in poetry, he laughs. 'I don't feel my thought process in poetry while playing a game. But he was probably a decent player, so it's not going to be that easy.'
Later, a panel discussion featuring Anand, art historian Ester Alba, and author José Antonio Garzón focuses on the deeper cultural significance of Valencia's chess heritage. Anand answers a question on what innovation he himself might gift to chess in a characteristically thoughtful way: 'At the moment, I feel that what I wanted to give, what I wanted to contribute was to leave the game in a better place than I found it, in a sense, and I think in India, I'm working for that.'
In response to a question on what today's chess styles reveal about society, he stated that chess probably reflected the complexity of life and of the universe. 'Every time we come close to solving the game one way, unexpectedly, it turns out to be deeper and more profound,' he said.
On India's chess boom and Valencia's celebration creating a full-circle moment, Anand becomes reflective: 'I think it's wonderful that India is emerging as a powerful country in chess. And I think we need to build on that. We need to make it just more popular everywhere in India. But I'm certainly very happy with the development.'
Valencia hasn't rested on its historical laurels. The celebrations featured over 20 events, including the exhibitions 'Valencia, Cradle of Modern Chess 1475' and 'The Route of Modern Chess'. The city's La Lonja de la Seda, a UNESCO World Heritage site, hosted presentations highlighting the chess revolution. The annual Open International Valencia Cuna del Ajedrez attracts grandmasters worldwide, with the 2025 edition offering €19,000 in prizes. Educational programmes included the Blindfold Challenge, often featuring prominent players.
Between official events, I explore Valencia's chess connections. In the medieval quarter, locals still play with i
ntense focus in cafés. 'Chess permeates our cultural identity here,' shares Eduardo Aracil, a representative of Visit Valencia. 'For centuries, we didn't even realize what we had given to the world. This anniversary is as much about reclaiming our heritage as celebrating it.'
Strangely, though Valencia holds a significant place in the history of chess, the city's museums, including the Museo de Belles Arts de València, do not prominently feature chess-themed paintings. Instead, Valencia celebrates its chess heritage through various cultural events.
For a game that began in ancient India, was transformed into Shatranj in Persia and the Arab world, and found its modern form in Valencia, this grand event represents more than an anniversary. It is a recognition of how ideas travel, evolve, and unite us across time and space.
As Anand puts it in his closing address: 'Chess doesn't just connect players across a board — it connects civilizations across history. From India to Valencia to the digital realm where millions play today, we are all moves in a beautiful game that began centuries ago.'
Veidehi Gite is an independent journalist.