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Hindustan Times
2 days ago
- Entertainment
- Hindustan Times
Celebrating 550 years of modern chess
The air in the grand hall of Valencia's La Nau cultural space is abuzz with excitement. Chess pieces — from ornate artefacts to contemporary competition sets — line the exhibition cases. It's May 15 and I'm 7,000 kilometres from home attending this landmark celebration: the 550th anniversary of modern chess. The venue is adorned with banners depicting the queen chess piece and the number '550' in elegant typography. For chess enthusiasts, this Spanish coastal city is hallowed ground. It was here, in 1475, that the queen piece was first granted her sweeping powers, transforming what was once a plodding medieval game into the dynamic strategic battle we recognise today. 'This is not just a Spanish celebration, but a global one,' says Maria Ángeles Vidal Ruiz, Managing Director of the Municipal Sports Foundation of Valencia. 'When the queen gained her power to move any number of squares in any direction, chess accelerated. Strategy fundamentally changed. The game became more aggressive, more beautiful.' The transformation was immortalized in the poem Scachs d'amor (Chess of Love), written by three Valencian nobles, Francesc de Castellví, Narcís Vinyoles, and Bernat Fenollar. 'Written in 1475, the poem was printed here because some of the first printing machines in Spain were in Valencia,' says Miguel Angel Perez Alba, Brand & Markets Director at Visit Valencia, who adds some crucial historical context. During my visit to the first floor of La Nau, a historic structure built in 1497 and remodelled in 1830 that was declared an Asset of Cultural Interest in 1981, I discover the library that houses treasures of chess history. Among them is a volume from 1561 that discusses chess strategy and rules. Vidal explains its significance: 'This book is very important for us because it's a part of Spanish history. But for Anand and other global chess players, it's very important because they have played a lot of matches with these rules.' In the 15th-century, chess flourished in the city's aristocratic circles. The most likely venue for royal games was the Royal Palace of Valencia (Palau Reial de València), the primary residence of the Aragonese monarchs. Demolished in the 19th century, the site now houses the Jardines del Real (Royal Gardens). Noble families like the Borjas (Borgias) also hosted chess games in their private palaces, which served as hubs for humanist discussion and intellectual pursuits. The centrepiece of my visit is an exclusive conversation with five-time World Chess Champion Viswanathan Anand. Meeting him in the quiet courtyard of a restored medieval building, I'm struck by his unassuming demeanour. When I ask about Valencia's gift to chess — the powerful queen — and whether the game would be as captivating without it, his response is immediate: 'Definitely, the game became more dynamic because we suddenly had a very, very powerful piece in the form of the queen.' On the east-to-west journey of chess from India's chaturanga to Valencia's modern version, he offers a perspective that bridges cultures: 'You know, India invents chess and the idea slowly spreads elsewhere. And in a nice twist, the title comes back to India...' His eyes light up when I ask him which opening he would choose if he were to challenge Francesc Vicent, the Valencian author who wrote the first treatise about chess using the present-day moves for the queen and the bishop. The now lost text was printed in Valencia on May 15, 1495. 'What's interesting about someone like Vicent is that he seems almost like a pioneer, experimenting with ideas much like an artist writing a poem. Of course, the theoretical understanding back then was still quite rudimentary, but that's part of the charm. Their curiosity was boundless, even with limited tools.' Our conversation turns to women in chess and the symbolism of the queen's power. 'Hopefully it parallels the fact that women play an equal role more and more,' he says. In response to a question about playing blindfolded against Spanish chess player and author of unknown identity, Rey Enigma, while narrating his thought process in poetry, he laughs. 'I don't feel my thought process in poetry while playing a game. But he was probably a decent player, so it's not going to be that easy.' Later, a panel discussion featuring Anand, art historian Ester Alba, and author José Antonio Garzón focuses on the deeper cultural significance of Valencia's chess heritage. Anand answers a question on what innovation he himself might gift to chess in a characteristically thoughtful way: 'At the moment, I feel that what I wanted to give, what I wanted to contribute was to leave the game in a better place than I found it, in a sense, and I think in India, I'm working for that.' In response to a question on what today's chess styles reveal about society, he stated that chess probably reflected the complexity of life and of the universe. 'Every time we come close to solving the game one way, unexpectedly, it turns out to be deeper and more profound,' he said. On India's chess boom and Valencia's celebration creating a full-circle moment, Anand becomes reflective: 'I think it's wonderful that India is emerging as a powerful country in chess. And I think we need to build on that. We need to make it just more popular everywhere in India. But I'm certainly very happy with the development.' Valencia hasn't rested on its historical laurels. The celebrations featured over 20 events, including the exhibitions 'Valencia, Cradle of Modern Chess 1475' and 'The Route of Modern Chess'. The city's La Lonja de la Seda, a UNESCO World Heritage site, hosted presentations highlighting the chess revolution. The annual Open International Valencia Cuna del Ajedrez attracts grandmasters worldwide, with the 2025 edition offering €19,000 in prizes. Educational programmes included the Blindfold Challenge, often featuring prominent players. Between official events, I explore Valencia's chess connections. In the medieval quarter, locals still play with i ntense focus in cafés. 'Chess permeates our cultural identity here,' shares Eduardo Aracil, a representative of Visit Valencia. 'For centuries, we didn't even realize what we had given to the world. This anniversary is as much about reclaiming our heritage as celebrating it.' Strangely, though Valencia holds a significant place in the history of chess, the city's museums, including the Museo de Belles Arts de València, do not prominently feature chess-themed paintings. Instead, Valencia celebrates its chess heritage through various cultural events. For a game that began in ancient India, was transformed into Shatranj in Persia and the Arab world, and found its modern form in Valencia, this grand event represents more than an anniversary. It is a recognition of how ideas travel, evolve, and unite us across time and space. As Anand puts it in his closing address: 'Chess doesn't just connect players across a board — it connects civilizations across history. From India to Valencia to the digital realm where millions play today, we are all moves in a beautiful game that began centuries ago.' Veidehi Gite is an independent journalist.
LeMonde
3 days ago
- Politics
- LeMonde
Aragon and Catalonia battle over the 'Sistine Chapel of Romanesque art'
Letter from Madrid After 11 years of complaints, appeals and back-and-forth between various courts, on May 28, Spain's Supreme Court finally ruled in the case of the mural paintings from the Romanesque Monastery of Santa María de Sijena. The dispute has pitted the regions of Aragon and Catalonia against each other since 2015. Unsurprisingly, but not without controversy, the court upheld, as a final ruling, the sentence imposed on the Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya (MNAC) in Barcelona: It must return the monastery's frescoes, located in the town of Villanueva de Sijena in the province of Huesca, within 20 days. Dating from 1196 to 1208, the works were removed in 1936 to protect them from the Spanish Civil War, before being purchased by the MNAC from nuns who were not the rightful owners. For the Catalan museum officials who have displayed the works since 1961, and who in recent years have called on numerous experts to bolster their case against the transfer, the decision puts extremely fragile works at risk. For the Aragonese government, which invested nearly €1.2 million in restoration work at the monastery, including the installation of a sophisticated climate control system to accommodate the paintings, it is time for the "Sistine Chapel of Romanesque art" to return to its original home. "The monastery is now able to store these works in perfect safety and, very soon, to exhibit them," said Jorge Azcon, president of the government of Aragon and of the right-wing People's Party of Aragon.
Times
02-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Times
Manolo el del Bombo obituary: Spanish football superfan
Following the Spain national football team meant everything to Manolo el del Bombo and nearly cost him everything — even his famous bass drum. For some four decades, no game featuring 'La Roja' home or abroad was complete without el del Bombo lending a rhythm to Spain's intricate short-passing game with a persistent beat on the drum that was as round as its owner. A self-professed 'old-fashioned Spanish male', el del Bombo was a good-natured figure, unmistakable with his wide-brimmed Basque black beret jammed on his head, Aragonese cachirulo headscarf around his neck and Spain shirt bulging from his pork stew-fortified barrel chest. The shirt bore the legend 'Manolo 12' on the back. He was, after all, La Roja's 12th man. El del Bombo (meaning 'he of the bass drum') followed the Spanish team all over the world, attending ten World Cups and seven European Championships. Wherever he went he was embraced by the 'football family' of all persuasions, stopped in the street and asked to pose for pictures. 'The owner of a restaurant once gave me a stuffed parrot,' he recalled. After more than 20 painful years watching Spain fail to win international tournaments, he was rewarded when the revitalised La Roja, orchestrated by the 'tiki-taka' passing mastery of Xavi Hernández and Andrés Iniesta in midfield, won the European Championship in Austria and Switzerland in 2008. He therefore flew to South Africa in 2010 fully expecting Spain to win the World Cup for the first time. Yet as La Roja edged their way towards the final in Johannesburg, el del Bombo was taken ill and forced to fly home. He recovered in time to take his place in the stands for the showpiece match. And as his meaty arms pounded away at the base drum, Spain did not let him down; Iniesta scored a late goal against the Netherlands in extra time to confirm what everybody already knew: el del Bombo's beloved Spain were the best in the world. 'I thought I was going to die without seeing us being world champions,' he recalled. 'And now I can die.' Manuel Cáceres Artesero was born in 1949 in the village of San Carlos del Valle and grew up in the city of Huesca in the northeast, which, he said, 'has a tradition of drums'. He learnt to play as a young man and perfected what he called his 'happy' technique in support of his local team, Huesca, in Spain's third division. He attended his first Spain match in 1976 and began following La Roja abroad three years later. In the early days travelling support was sparse. 'The way Spain play now has mobilised people. I look back 25 years and I would be in a stadium with 20 supporters or even up in the stands on my own. I banged the drum for no one. Except the players.' ALAMY The 1982 World Cup hosted by Spain was when el del Bombo secured his brand, albeit in a losing cause after Spain crashed out in the second group phase after a 0-0 draw with England. In watching all five of Spain's matches he hitchhiked 10,000 miles. Thereafter he became a Spanish national treasure, but in 1987 returned to Valencia after a Spain match to find that his wife had left him and taken their four children. 'Why? Because I had pretty much abandoned them. Because I was always with Spain.' El del Bombo ran a bar next to Valencia 's home stadium that he turned into a shrine to his footballing passion and memories. The business suffered owing to his regular absences and faced closure after the pandemic, until it was bought on the condition that el del Bombo would be present with his drum on match days. In later years he became part of the national team's entourage. The Royal Spanish Football Federation paid for his travel, hotel and tickets to games. Before matches el del Bombo would show a surprising turn of speed as he ran on to the pitch like a toreador to take the acclaim of the crowd. He even appeared in adverts but drew the line at many offers to stick advertising on his sacred drum. 'I would be able to charge a lot, but I won't do it,' he said. ' El del bombo no se mancha. The drum doesn't stain.' In 2017 he was 'devastated' when his drum was stolen before Spain played a friendly against Colombia in Murcia. After a national outcry, the drum was handed in a day later. At the 2018 World Cup in Russia he was blocked from entering stadiums with his drum because of new Fifa regulations. A tearful el del Bombo appeared on news bulletins and proclaimed: 'Putin, friend, help a friend.' Whether the Kremlin intervened is unknown, but after his appeal el del Bombo was allowed in with his drum. It would be his final tournament. Thereafter, he was no longer well enough to travel to games. With his health failing, he watched from his old bar as Spain broke English hearts in the final to win the 2024 European Championship. 'La Roja has given us great moments in history. It has made us vibrate, cry, scream and, in my case, hit the drum as if there were no tomorrow,' he said. 'This is to thank all of you for sharing with me the passion for La Roja and, above all, the support and affection that you constantly show me. Because without you there would be no national team, there would be no football, there would be no Manolo el del Bombo.'
Euronews
16-02-2025
- Euronews
Europe's former railway stations have become the darling of the luxury hotel scene
In the past year, I've lost count of the number of friends who've regaled me with stories about stays in former train stations that have been lovingly converted into hotels or self-catering holiday homes. I was initially confused – my perfect hotel certainly didn't involve bedding down near rusting train tracks or in offices once used by train conductors, no matter how innovative the transformation of the railway station in question might be. But as a fan of both railway travel and gorgeous hotels, I couldn't help but delve a little deeper. Jaunts on luxurious sleeper trains often come with eye-watering price tags after all, so a night in a former train station, especially one filled with reminders of its past, seemed like the potential next best thing. And, dear reader, I struck gold. So, without further ado, here are my top recommendations for hotels in former railway stations, ranging from five-star retreats that allow guests to sleep in former (very swanky) conductors' offices to boutique hotels where you can toast your love of trains on former station platforms. The best bit? You can drift off to the land of nod without worrying about missing a spectacular view – or, much worse, your stop. Spain's Canfranc Estación was opened by a former French president This Pyrenees hotel, close to the French border, is a lovingly preserved explosion of art deco fabulousness, with vast expanses of gold leaf and a backdrop of snowcapped mountains. Canfranc Estación opened as a train station in 1928 when Gaston Doumergue, the former president of France, cut the silk ribbon at its entrance. The railway was built to connect Spain with France, and the buildings that inspired its architecture include Paris's Musée d'Orsay. The most spectacular hotel areas are the spa, with its sculpture-like chandeliers and teal-hued ceramic tiles, and the Canfranc Express, a Michelin-starred restaurant tucked inside a former railway carriage. Don't leave without trying the fragrant Aragonese cheese board! A station hotel that housed servicemen during the Second World War Full disclosure: The Clermont London is one of the UK's oldest still-functioning railway hotels, with a history spanning 150 years – but I feel its rich history justifies its inclusion. The hotel residence is housed in the same building as London's historic Charing Cross train station. In fact, the bedrooms are located directly above it. Reminders of its fascinating heritage include some exhibits on the first floor, where visitors can check out handwritten letters from former guests, including US servicemen who stayed here during the Second World War. 'The grand staircase in the lobby is such a showstopper,' says former guest Penny Broomfield. 'I love how the owners have managed to preserve the original features, such as the gold leaf, from when the hotel first opened.' Dine on a disused railway platform in the Isle of Wight Years ago, Whitwell Station Holiday Homes was a railway station on the Isle of Wight's Newport, Godshill & St Lawrence Railway line. Now, it's been transformed into two gorgeous self-catering holiday cottages that incorporate the former ticket office, porter's office, and the ladies' waiting room. 'I loved seeing the memorabilia,' says Simon Clark, who stayed at Whitwell recently. 'For a railway fan like me, seeing the old station clock on the wall, the antique lamp hanging in the corner, and the railway truck plaques added to the fun.' Guests are also free to enjoy gorgeous views over the island's southern downs. I suggest opting for Primrose Cottage, as you'll be able to sip sundowners on what was once the platform – all in the shadow of Whitwell's original station sign. Slumber in Britain's beautifully restored nineteenth-century carriages Stay at The Old Station, and you'll get to doze off in a vintage Pullman carriage outside what was once the grandest station on the Mid Sussex Railway Company. Inaugurated in 1859 and closed in the 1950s, this former train station-turned-cosy hotel is just a short walk from the beautiful market town of Petworth in West Sussex. There are 10 rooms in total, including the sought-after King Pullman Carriage rooms, filled with faded photos from the station's heyday. 'Our latest addition, Pullman Princess Ena, is my favourite part of the hotel,' says owner Jennie Hudson, referring to the vintage carriage that is now the restaurant. 'We spent three years restoring her, and she's one of the last three Pullman carriages transported to the UK from America in 1906.' A French boutique hotel for railway buffs and beach lovers alike Another property inside a former rural train station (in this case dating back to 1870) is Hotel Estelou in Sommières, France. This lemon-yellow boutique hotel has 24 rooms surrounded by a beautiful Mediterranean garden. Despite being in the centre of the pretty town of Sommières in France, it's a wonderfully tranquil base and perfect for families keen to check out the gorgeous beaches between Montpellier and Nîmes. I recommend one of the hotel's 'cosy suites', which overlook the property's gardens. Party in a Pullman carriage near the Jurassic Coast Say hello to what might just be one of England's quaintest inns. The Avon Causeway Inn is a Dorset gem that dates back to the 1800s and was once the Hurn railway station. Stay here, and you'll discover countless reminders of its past, along with a beautiful beer garden. Don't pass up the chance to try one of the ales from the award-winning brewery Butcombe! And if you're planning an event, you can consider booking the restored Pullman train carriage next to the hotel. 'I love the fact that it's so close to the amazing Jurassic Coast but also that it still feels very much like an old railway station,' says former guest Neil Whitehead. 'The Pullman carriage is beautiful – it will transport you straight back to the elegance of the 1920s.' England's Alton Station is packed to the brim with original features Craving a more intimate getaway? Consider this beautiful four-bedroom self-catering property, a former train station in a leafy Churnet Valley, Staffordshire. There's an abundance of original features. My favourite spaces include the beautiful kitchen that's tucked inside what was once the ladies' waiting room, and the library, which is located in the former station master's house. 'Our conservation work included preservation of the original Minton geometric floor tiles,' says Fiona Bullock, property manager at the Landmark Trust. 'A team of specialists surveyed, repaired and – only as necessary – replaced tiles throughout the waiting room. The replacement tiles were manufactured in what's likely to be the same factory that produced the original ones from the 1800s.' Wish to travel further afield and get the same train stay vibes? In the late 1800s and early 1900s, railways played a crucial role in connecting the wider world, so it's hardly surprising that there's no shortage of beautiful hotels in former railways beyond Europe, too. Why not hover over Kruger National Park in South Africa? Trust us – all safari lodges will seem rather plain after a stay at Kruger Shalati, where the luxurious rooms are beautifully restored train carriages perched on a historic railway bridge high above Kruger National Park. In the early 1900s, this is where trains would pause overnight before entering the park. Make sure you squeeze in a dip in the hotel's pool, which you'll find in the centre of the bridge. 'The floor-to-ceiling glass windows in the train carriage rooms allow you to feel completely immersed in the natural environment while still enjoying five-star comfort,' says former guest Adele Cutler. 'Staying here gave me a real feeling of nostalgia for the heyday of rail travel - albeit with a wonderfully contemporary take on 1920s glamour.' Meet me in St. Louis – in one of the USA's national historic landmarks St. Louis's Union Station in Missouri first flung open its doors in 1894, but it's now the home of St. Louis Union Station Hotel. Its most spectacular architectural features include the Grand Hall, with a design inspired by France's medieval castles, and comes with vast expanses of gold leafing, stained glass, and Indiana limestone. By the 1960s, the station had fallen into disrepair, although salvation came in 1985 when design firm HOK spent €143 million transforming the site into one of America's most luxurious hotels. 'One of my personal highlights is the mesmerising 3D lights show, which takes place in the Grand Hall, designed to blend the station's magnificent past with the future,' says general manager Tim Cooper. 'I also love the stained glass next to the main staircase – it's truly a sight to behold.' Fancy a high-altitude station hotel? Head to Colorado, USA Crawford Hotel Denver lies in the city's old Beaux-Arts Union Station. The arrival of the Transcontinental Railway in the 1800s called for a bigger, more beautiful railway hub, which was unveiled in 1914. One hundred years later, the station became a public space that included Denver's most luxurious hotel, perched atop the building. An extensive renovation last year has still retained reminders of the building's past. You'll find vintage trunks turned into coffee tables and framed train tickets from the early 1900s, although my favourite perk is the complimentary tipple you can enjoy at the Terminal Bar, once the station's ticket booth. Rock out in a former baggage room in Nova Scotia, Canada Fancy sleeping in restored boxcar carriages outside a rural 19th-century train station? Head on over to the quaint Train Station Inn in Nova Scotia, which is a great base for ramblers wishing to walk along the former railway route, now the popular Trans Canada Trail hiking and cycling route. In terms of which carriage to choose, I recommend Jimmie, which sleeps three people and has a cosy loft space perfect for teenagers. Don't forget to check out the inn's café in the main train station, and the Baggage Room Bar for live music. Another fun fact: this inn doesn't just look like the former train station but also smells like it, too. 'It truly feels like you're in a railway yard – we've used creosote sleepers, so as you're walking down the platform, you get a whiff of that railway smell,' says general manager Ryan Duggan. Look up to the Roman god of travellers in Tennessee's luxury train hotel, USA The Union Station Nashville Yards was once Tennessee's main railway hub – but is now one of the city's most luxurious hotels. It's packed with original features, including a spectacular 65-foot barrel-vaulted stained-glass ceiling, marble floors and limestone fireplaces. Try to bag the Conductor's Suite, with its original ornate pillars and views of what was once the station's grand hall. For general manager Esther White, the pièce de résistance is the feature found on the hotel's exterior. 'I love the 17-foot statue of Mercury which crowns our clocktower,' she says. 'Mercury is the Roman God of travellers, and it's a nod to both the rich history of this former train station and the legacy of those who once passed through this station.'
