Meet the Irish chefs making waves in top London restaurants

Irish Examiner

2 days ago

We all know London is a culinary powerhouse and one to watch when it comes to what's hot in food.
Do you know what's hot there right now? Ireland. Irish food, Irish pubs, Irish cooking. And it's no wonder when there has always been a constant stream of chefs making the pilgrimage over the water to sharpen their skills.
Some chefs do their time and head home and we're all the better for it. Kevin Burke returned and opened Library Street; Niall Davidson came back and launched Allta; and, more recently, Adam Nevin returned to his home town of Maynooth, earning the first Michelin star for Carton House.
Then there are the chefs who put down roots in London and become an intrinsic part of the food scene, led by the formidable Richard Corrigan, who's been the flag bearer for Irish cuisine in his restaurants and on British TV screens for decades. There are plenty following in his footsteps, most notably Anna Haugh, who runs Myrtle, a contemporary Irish restaurant in Chelsea, and has become a familiar face on the BBC, and Dubliner Robin Gill, with his expanding group of brilliant restaurants across the city.
Anna Haugh of Myrtle
In fact, there are so many significant Irish names in the hospitality game that each year one of London's top restaurant websites, Hot Dinners, publishes the Murphia list, highlighting the 50 most influential Irish people in the food scene in the city.
Corrigan, Haugh, and Gill are always in the mix along with other stalwarts such as Antrim-born Clare Smyth, one of the most accomplished chefs in Britain, Kerry man Kenneth Culhane, the head chef at Michelin-starred The Dysart Petersham, Corkonian Dee Rettali, of Fortitude Bakehouse, and Dubliner Nick Fitzgerald, chef-owner of Tacos Padre in the famous Borough Market.
Newer additions include Tipperary native Christine Walsh, who's now the head chef at Chishuru, a West African Michelin-starred restaurant, and Paddy Maher, who's cooking at the Pearly Queen in east London, where his mashed potato with Guinness and seaweed gravy has been getting rave reviews.
Robin Gill at Darby's
Speaking of Guinness, the whole of London's Soho seems to have a pint of Guinness in hand since The Devonshire opened its doors in late 2023 under the watchful eye of pub landlord and Sligo man Oisín Rogers. It joins a long list of Irish hospitality stories making noise in London.
In 2021, chef Max Rocha opened Café Cecilia in east London and quickly garnered a cult following, becoming the darling of the fashion and foodie crowds. Then there's the Yellow Bittern on Caledonian Rd, a restaurant from Belfast-born Hugh Corcoran and his partner Frances Armstrong-Jones that got every food critic scribbling an opinion on their purposefully anachronistic approach to doing things, only taking bookings by phone and only accepting cash payments.
At the other end of the spectrum is the upscale Marylebone bistro Lita, which made headlines partly because of its pricey menu but more recently because they gained a Michelin star within a year of opening. Guess where head chef Luke Ahearne is from? Tipperary.
Gone are the days, it seems, when finding something Irish in London meant a grotty pub and a pack of Tayto.
Christine Walsh
Christine Walsh of Chishuru
Christine, originally from Tipperary, gained recognition while cooking in Galway at Loam and then Éan. She moved to London three years ago and is now the head chef at Chishuru, a modern West African, one-star Michelin restaurant in Fitzrovia.
Irish ingredients: We use a lot of Irish protein — lamb and beef. Not intentional but we source the best fish at the most sustainable time for fishing it, and it often comes from the Irish Sea, which I love.
Irish spots in London: Brendan The Navigator in Highgate. They host huge trad sessions on Sundays. For a pint, The Winchester on Archway Rd (my local), The Lamb on Holloway Rd, or The George in Fitzrovia.
Favourite thing about London: The diversity of food and culture. Middle Eastern food and hospitality are beyond some of the best you'll find and so, so reasonably priced. For Turkish, I go to an ocakbasi grill in Green Lanes called Hala. For Palestinian, I love Akub in Notting Hill.
Homesick for: The sausages in my local butcher, O'Dwyer's in Killenaule, Tipperary. My dad has them stocked in the fridge when I come home.
Luke Ahearne
Luke Ahearne of Lita
Luke is the head chef at Michelin-starred Lita in Marylebone. He grew up in Clonmel, Co Tipperary, and moved to London at 23, honing his skills at The Clove Club, Luca, and later as head chef at Corrigan's Mayfair.
Irish ingredients: My menu is very much south Mediterranean focused but my cooking is very seasonal and produce-driven so prime Irish produce does make an appearance on the menu. At the moment, I use Irish beef and Irish butter.
Irish spots: The Devonshire and Homeboy in Islington, for sure. Any Richard Corrigan restaurant is always a good bet. Darby's by Robin Gill. In East London, Molly Bloom's for a pint.
Favourite London food: There are great, diverse food markets. I love eating Turkish food in Dalston and, for pizza, Gordos Pizzeria, and also Crisp W6 at The Chancellors.
Homesick for: I miss Tayto crisps — they always come back in the suitcase with me.
Patrick Powell
Patrick Powell of The Knave of Clubs
Hailing from Killala, Co Mayo, Patrick has been cooking in some of London's top restaurants for over 14 years, having previously worked in Ireland and Australia. He is culinary director for East End pub The Knave of Clubs and adjoining restaurant One Club Row.
Irish ingredients: I use a lot of Irish oysters, brought in by Simon Lamont. They are exceptional.
Irish influence: I like to cook stuff that's quite comforting and generous and I think a lot of that stems from Irish hospitality.
Irish pubs: Nancy Spains, a new pub done up like an old pub. Doesn't serve Guinness, only Murphy's, which is interesting. I like the Auld Shillelagh. We were hoping to get Beamish into our new pub but I'm not sure we can get it.
Homesick for: My big one is always Hunky Dorys. I get my mum or sisters to bring them over. The Irish Dairy Milks are better too. You don't get Golden Crisp or Mint Crisp here.
Beth O'Brien
Beth O'Brien
Dublin-born Beth has been in London for nine months working on a new opening in west London called The Fat Badger, where she will be the sous chef. In Ireland, she worked at Ballymaloe House and made a name for herself by sharing recipe tests on her Instagram page @bethcooksthings.
Irish influence: I make soda bread quite regularly, which is quite similar to my mum's brown bread. I also incorporate some elements in the dessert menu that are inspired by my childhood, like the marmalade steamed pudding.
Irish spots: Cafe Cecilia in Hackney and Fortitude Bakery in Bloomsbury. My local, Angie's in Westbourne Park, is my favourite place (and the cheapest I've found) for a pint.
Favourite food in London: The bacon maple pastry at Pophams, pain au choc at Layla, morning bun at Fortitude, bacon sandwich at The Devonshire, tortilla txistorra at Sabor, and pasta at Canteen.
Homesick for: I miss a good, consistent pint of Guinness. I can get most of the Irish food I love in London, so the only thing I bring back regularly is stoneground wholemeal flour, which is quite difficult to find in the UK.
Diarmuid Goodwin
Diarmuid Goodwin
Diarmuid grew up just outside Belfast and has been cooking in London for well over a decade, training with Angela Hartnett and then heading up some of the city's favourite restaurants. He's currently freelancing and focusing on pop-up events and residencies.
Irish influence: I've been leaning more into this recently, which I'm finding incredibly fulfilling. Roast skate wing with smoked eel peppercorn sauce and colcannon has become a bit of a signature dish for me.
Irish pub: You can't beat the Auld Shillelagh, one of my favourite Irish bars in London — they've a very good pint of Guinness.
Favourite thing about London: The endless food and drink places. Every week, a new place opens. London is full of incredibly talented and creative people. It's a melting pot of so many different people and cultures, especially restaurants, and it's really beautiful to be immersed in this.
Homesick for: Veda bread, with mountains of butter, and Harp Ice on draught.
Five signature Irish dishes to try in London
Chicken fillet roll at Inis
Chicken fillet roll at Inis
13 Rookwood Way, Fish Island, E3 2XT, inisfishisland.com
This East London restaurant has plenty of Irish influence on its modern, seasonal menu and the lunchtime chicken fillet roll has become a fast favourite for locals.
Guinness and oysters at Darby's
3 Viaduct Gardens, Nine Elms, SW11 7AY, darbys-london.com
Darby's may be Robin Gill's New York-inspired spot but this pairing is purely Irish. Don't miss their great value oyster happy hour.
Shpuds n' butter at Shankey's
221 Well St, E9 6RG. instagram.com/shankeys.hackney
At this Irish-Indian restaurant and bar, there is lots to love including an epic cocktail list featuring the unique Shpuds n' Butter made with Kerrygold washed Ban Poitín.
Guinness bread at Café Cecilia
32 Andrews Road, Hackney, E8 4FX, cafececilia.com
Chef Max Rocha cites his Guinness bread as the backbone of Café Cecilia. Every meal begins and ends with it from the bread plate when you first sit to the Guinness bread ice cream for dessert.
Beef stuffed boxty at Myrtle
1a Langton Street, Chelsea. SW10 0JL myrtlerestaurant.com
The menu at Anna Haugh's contemporary Irish restaurant changes seasonally but you'll always find a version of her famous boxty stuffed with braised Irish beef.