logo
What I learned about the future of restaurants from Rene Redzepi's chef conference

What I learned about the future of restaurants from Rene Redzepi's chef conference

Fast Companya day ago

The best part of last month's MAD Symposium in Copenhagen wasn't chef Thomas Keller telling young chefs in the audience to stop chasing Michelin stars—though he did say that. It wasn't chef and World Central Kitchen founder José Andrés breaking down in tears as he described his organization's work cooking in Gaza. And it wasn't chef-turned-actor Matty Matheson describing his rise to fame on FX's industry hit, The Bear.
Instead, under a giant red circus tent in Copenhagen, the star power dulled as the next generation stood up. The brightest spot came as four young Icelandic fishing guides stood onstage and presented a compelling and heartfelt argument against sea-farmed salmon. The seventh-generation guides, two sets of sisters in their late teens and early twenties, are among the first female guides in their country, helping visitors find and catch wild Atlantic salmon on the Laxá river in northern Iceland. I found their story interesting, unexpected, and inspiring—which, MAD's leadership says, is the entire point.
For chefs, by chefs
The MAD Symposium, named after the Danish word for 'food,' started 15 years ago. It's put on by a Copenhagen-based nonprofit, also called MAD, started by chef René Redzepi. Redzepi runs Noma, a restaurant consistently ranked among the best and most influential restaurants in the world. The Symposium is a kind of for-chefs, by-chefs event that also welcomes bartenders, servers, farmers, food producers, writers, and, this year for the first time, corporate sponsors. Attendees arrive by boat, gather under tents in variable Danish weather conditions, and eat a lot of exceptional food—this year including recipes from Los Angeles hot spot Anajak Thai, Copenhagen's Sanchez, and London's revered St. John, cooked and served by a tirelessly hospitable team, including Noma's chefs.
'I'm in the middle of a 14-day shift,' I heard one chef say during meal prep, though the people in the tented kitchen were (mostly) smiling.
Industry challenges
This year's event, MAD7, returned after a seven-year hiatus, during which COVID-19 ransacked the restaurant business, grappling with a big question: Is it possible to build to last in this industry?
If you follow industry news, at least in America, it might not seem like it. In the last two years, dozens of major restaurant companies have shuttered locations, filed for bankruptcy, or closed outright. McDonald's recently experienced its worst sales decline since the pandemic.
Those are just the corporate chains. Independent restaurants, always a tough business, are facing challenges that include rising costs and wage pressures, inflation, changes in consumer spending, and disruptions and uncertainty caused by natural disasters, economic constraints, and political leadership. In the years since MAD began, the tone around chefs and restaurants has shifted dramatically. An industry-wide reckoning sent plenty of top names packing and caused others— Redzepi included —to reexamine and adjust the way they treat workers and run kitchens. There's a sense that maybe it's time for the ' gods of food,' as Time magazine once called them in a feature that also included past MAD speakers David Chang and Brazilian chef Alex Atala (who once killed a chicken on the MAD stage) to step aside.
Keller controversy
The event itself was largely successful in its efforts to inspire important conversations about what should come next, even if it got off to a sleepy start. 'Legacy' was the theme of the first day, but some speakers missed the opportunity to reflect honestly on reality.
The biggest example of this was a conversation between chefs Redzepi and Keller that completely ignored the bombshell story, published a week earlier, by San Francisco Chronicle restaurant critic MacKenzie Chung Fegan. In it, she reveals Keller pulled her aside during a visit to the French Laundry, his Napa Valley fine-dining restaurant, for a lecture about the merits of restaurant critics before asking her to leave. (Spoiler: She stays.) Might one of the world's greatest chefs address a bit of reasonable, if high-profile criticism in front of a friendly industry audience, we all wondered? Unfortunately, he did not.
From supper clubs to pop-ups
Thankfully, MAD managed to redeem itself the following day as talks turned to the future. Asma Khan, chef of London Darjeeling Express explained her business's evolution from supper club to pop-up to permanent restaurant employing—and empowering—immigrant women. Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard spoke of his 2023 decision to, in his words, 'give away the company,' transferring its ownership to a nonprofit foundation. And Emilie Qvist, a young Danish chef, talked about her own future in restaurants: a series of short-term projects that included revitalizing a coastal fish restaurant in northern Denmark before closing it to travel and later sign on as chef for a six-month project—short-term stints are still excellent vectors for change and creativity, she explained.
While the room was filled with bold-faced names of the restaurant world (even Keller stayed for the full program) the most impact came from those working more anonymously to create a better restaurant industry, a better legacy. As we filed out of the tent on Monday evening, first into a boat and then to a happy hour full of natural wine and caviar under a bridge beside a canal—this business has its perks!—I again considered the fishing guides' wild salmon pitch.
A few years ago, they faced a catastrophic disaster when thousands of farmed salmon escaped from a nearby offshore farm. The escape threatened the country's wild fish with disease, parasites, and reproductive challenges. If the practice of sea farming continues, the young women said, the country's entire population of wild salmon is at risk of dying. That's bad news for anyone who cares about fishing practices, but it's worse news for the guides. Threatened also is their families' legacy—an outcome that loomed larger in a tent full of restaurant people than the fate of the fish.

Orange background

Try Our AI Features

Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:

Comments

No comments yet...

Related Articles

Miami's Newest Restaurant Openings, June 2025
Miami's Newest Restaurant Openings, June 2025

Eater

time3 hours ago

  • Eater

Miami's Newest Restaurant Openings, June 2025

Having trouble keeping up with all the new establishments popping up? Here are some noteworthy restaurants opening around Miami this June. Located inside the Orcidea Hotel, Donatella offers classic Italian fare such as polipo al Insalata, carpaccio gambero rosso, rigatoni nduja, and black truffle cacio e pepe. Dishes are made with fresh ingredients and feature artisanal pastas. The Empanadas, founded in Key Biscayne, opened its sixth location in South Miami. Choose from 25 different empanadas ranging from standards like beef and chicken to sweet varieties filled with apple pie or Nutella and brownie. There are also vegan choices, so everyone can enjoy empanadas. Celebrity chef and humanitarian, José Andrés, opened Aguasal and Bar Centro at the Andaz Miami Beach Hotel. Aguasal, named for agua salada, the Spanish term for saltwater, is a restaurant celebrating coastal Mediterranean fare. Dishes include mussels saganaki with feta and chives; roasted cauliflower with tahini, sesame seeds, ground coriander, pomegranate, and puffed quinoa; and a whole snapper. Fans of chef Andrés will be familiar with Bar Centro, an indoor-outdoor bar with ocean views. Enjoy a key lime pie daiquiri and snack on Spanish tapas and sandwiches. Macchialina's Michael Pirolo, along with managing partners Jennifer Chaefsky and Jacqueline Pirolo, have opened Fluke, a combination cocktail lounge and seafood spot inside the former Macchialina space. As the name implies, martinis are the house drink, paired with seafood selections from a rotating menu of raw and fried items and crudos. There's also a great burger, rosemary-dusted, hand-cut fries, and a selection of natural, biodynamic wines. Stop in for the Lucky $7 Martini Happy Hour from 5 p.m. to 7 p.m., featuring a selection of martinis for seven bucks. Francesco, a Coral Gables favorite for Peruvian cuisine, has reopened after a seven-year hiatus. The restaurant, which attracted celebrities such as Gloria Estefan and Pitbull, recently reopened at a new location on Miracle Mile. Dishes include a cannelloni stuffed with chicken stew, a New York strip with gnocchi, and a catch of the day. If you're seeking romance, 'Wednesdate' nights offer live music, starting at 7 p.m. Located inside a former Lutheran church, Jay's may be one of Fort Lauderdale's most unique venues. With stained glass windows, arched windows, and vaulted ceilings, you might just exclaim, 'holy cow' (pun intended) when your steak arrives. Expect seafood towers, steaks, and sides – plus a prime rib trolley, where your meat gets wheeled to you and serviced tableside. Jay's trades its restaurant persona after hours for a late-night speakeasy. If that's not swanky enough, Jay's offers a membership club with exclusive benefits for $800 per quarter. Mai Sushi & Tapas Bar, a Japanese-Vietnamese sushi and tapas bar located in Coral Gables, offers a diverse selection of sushi, sashimi, and hot and cold tapas in a modern, funky setting. Find a large choice of rolls, including the Crunchy Coral Gables with tuna, white fish, salmon, avocado, fried garlic, eel sauce, spicy mayo, and tempura flakes. Also, take a look at the skewers and dumplings. Buenos Aires-based Niño Gordo has opened a branch in Wynwood, offering Asian fusion cuisine that melds Japanese, Korean, and Southeast Asian flavors with Argentine grilling techniques. Award-winning bar consultant Christine Wiseman heads the cocktail program. The flagship location has earned the #34 spot in Latin America's 50 Best list. St. Augustine's Odd Birds Cocktail Lounge and Kitchen pops up in Little Havana for an open-ended run inside Pocho's Express. The lounge offers cocktails made with Latin American spirits and fresh fruits. Inter Miami fans should check out the Don't Mess with Messi, made with Fernet Branca and pineberry sage syrup. Food is provided in-house by Colombian restaurant Sanpocho. Direct from Guadalajara, Sala de Despecho ('Heartbreak Room' in English) knows that bad dates are a universal experience. The restaurant invites you to eat tacos, drink mezcal, and sing your heart out — literally — with a version of drunken karaoke. If you're looking for a place guaranteed not to be filled with bridal shower parties on a Saturday night, this is the right place. New York City's Serafina expands its Florida outreach with a new location at Miami Worldcenter. The restaurant at Aventura Mall offers wood-fired pizzas, pastas, and standard Italian red sauce fare. Skinny Louie won the 2025 South Beach Wine & Food Festival's Burger Bash for its 100% Angus beef smash burgers. The concise menu offers those burgers in a few iterations (and an Impossible version), fries, and shakes. This simple strategy has proven effective, with Skinny Louie branching out into Coral Gables, and expanding to Danie Beach, Aventura, South Miami, West Palm Beach, and New York City soon. Japanese cuisine and American smokehouse barbecue marry at Ukiah. Chef Michael Lewis brings his Asheville restaurant to Fort Lauderdale, where diners can enjoy sushi, sashimi, dumplings, and more, with a river view. The star of the show is Lewis's smoked platters. Diners can choose from a smoked half chicken, Carolina pork shoulder, brisket, or pastrami short rib — each served with pickled vegetables, kimchi, and toasted rye bread — and large enough for sharing. This much-loved Italian restaurant closed last year, only to reopen recently across the street from its original location in the Farinelli space, which Strada owner Javier Uribe also owns. The new Strada in the Grove effectively merges both spots, offering classic Italian dishes with Farinelli's wood-fired pizzas. See More:

Royal Dog Steals the Show—and Makes History—in Adorable First Balcony Appearance
Royal Dog Steals the Show—and Makes History—in Adorable First Balcony Appearance

Yahoo

time13 hours ago

  • Yahoo

Royal Dog Steals the Show—and Makes History—in Adorable First Balcony Appearance

When you buy through links on our articles, Future and its syndication partners may earn a commission. Royal dogs have been having quite a moment this year. Queen Camilla and King Charles both welcomed new puppies after The Queen's beloved Jack Russell terrier died, and last week, Prince William and Princess Kate's cocker spaniel, Orla, gave birth to four puppies. But on Monday, May 26, a European dog stepped into the spotlight when the Danish royal family celebrated King Frederik's birthday with a special balcony appearance. Queen Mary and King Frederik—along with their twins, Prince Vincent and Princess Josephine, 14, eldest daughter Princess Isabella, 18, and Frederik's mother, Queen Margrethe—appeared on the balcony of Frederik VIII's Palace to mark the occasion. Crown Prince Christian is currently undergoing military training and was unable to attend—but another family member happily filled in for the 19-year-old heir to the throne. One of Mary and Frederik's lookalike border collies trotted out on the balcony, much to the delight of the royal family. Princess Isabella and Prince Vincent are both seen bending down to pet the dog in the sweet photos from the event, while in one shot, Vincent gets the pup to shake hands. This is the first time one of the royal dogs has ever made a balcony appearance. While it's unclear which dog it was who joined them, the family owns two female border collies named Grace and Coco. The Danish royals welcomed Grace—who is related to their late dog, Ziggy—into their family in 2017, and she gave birth to two puppies in 2021. Coco, meanwhile, is Grace's daughter, and Queen Mary noted that it was hard to tell them apart. After meeting Coco's father on a royal engagement last August, she wrote on Instagram, "Last week I met Coco's father Eagle during our visit to Assens. It was a lovely surprise and great to notice how much father and daughter resemble each other." She added, "In the second picture, Grace is in the front and a curious Coco is seen behind. It can be difficult for some to tell the difference 🤔."

Tencent Games Joins the Playing for the Planet Alliance to Champion Green Gaming
Tencent Games Joins the Playing for the Planet Alliance to Champion Green Gaming

Associated Press

timea day ago

  • Associated Press

Tencent Games Joins the Playing for the Planet Alliance to Champion Green Gaming

HONG KONG, June 9, 2025 /PRNewswire/ -- Tencent Games, a leading global platform for game development, publishing and operations, today announced that it has joined Playing for the Planet as a member. Playing for the Planet is an Alliance of studios, publishers, and games organizations, supported by the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP) and led by the industry to reduce the environmental impact of gaming and inspire climate action through play. This collaboration reflects Tencent Games' commitment to sustainable innovation and environmental responsibility, aligning with Tencent's goal of achieving carbon neutrality across its operations and supply chain, by 2030. More importantly, it underscores Tencent's support of the gaming community and commitment to driving positive change in the industry. 'Tencent Games encompasses a diverse global ecosystem — from our homegrown studios to our global studio network — united by a shared commitment to building a sustainable video games business and future for all,' said Brent Irvin, Corporate Vice President of Tencent. 'Joining the Alliance underscores our belief that video games can be a force for good and a powerful platform for paving the way to a greener future. We look forward to close collaboration with partners across the industry to drive climate awareness and action through engaging, innovative gameplay experiences.' Tencent Games, along with its network of global studios, has already been working closely with the Alliance on its flagship initiative, the Green Game Jam, in which game developers create in-game activations that encourage players to take actions for the planet. As a committed advocate for sustainability in gaming, Tencent Games and its network studios will continue to champion green action through the Green Game Jam, while collaborating with industry partners and experts to explore new programs that inspire positive environmental awareness among younger players. As part of the commitment, Tencent Games will support the Alliance and gaming industry in its sustainability endeavors by developing training programs that empower game developers to integrate sustainability principles in their development practices, from energy-efficient operations to eco-conscious game design. Tencent Games is also collaborating with the Alliance to explore the development of an environmental awareness initiative for university students. 'The video games industry has the ability to engage, inspire and captivate the imaginations of billions of people across the world. This makes them a really important partner in addressing the nature and climate emergencies,' said Sam Barratt, Chief of Youth, Education, and Advocacy at the UN Environment Programme (UNEP). 'We are delighted that Tencent Games is committing to take further action on this agenda. Working with the video games industry to strengthen a collaborative and collective approach to reduce carbon emissions and build a more sustainable world is a mission more urgent than ever.' Tencent Games has been recognized for its sustainability initiatives. The company was awarded the Sustainability Award at Gamescom 2024, for its action-oriented commitments to operating its business sustainability. About Tencent Games Tencent Games was launched in 2003, and has since grown into a leading global platform for game development, publishing and operation, as well as the operator of the largest online game community in China. It is dedicated to offering engaging and high quality interactive entertainment experiences for players around the world. Tencent Games now offers more than 170 in-house developed and licensed games across 200 countries and regions, which provides hundreds of millions of users with cross-platform interactive entertainment experiences. Honor of Kings, PUBG MOBILE, League of Legends, Call of Duty: Mobile and Brawl Stars are some of our most popular titles around the world. About the Playing for the Planet Alliance The Playing For The Planet Alliance was launched during the Climate Summit at UN Headquarters in New York. In total, the members of the Alliance have the ability to reach more than 1 billion video game players. In joining the Alliance, members have made commitments ranging from integrating green activations in games, reducing their emissions, and supporting the global environmental agenda through initiatives ranging from planting millions of trees to reducing plastic in their products. About the UN Environment Programme (UNEP) The UN Environment Programme is the leading global voice on the environment. It provides leadership and encourages partnership in caring for the environment by inspiring, informing, and enabling nations and peoples to improve their quality of life without compromising that of future generations. For further information on the Playing for the Planet Alliance, contact [email protected] Media Enquires: Edelman for Tencent Games June Wong +852 6986 5822 [email protected] View original content to download multimedia: SOURCE Tencent Games

DOWNLOAD THE APP

Get Started Now: Download the App

Ready to dive into the world of global news and events? Download our app today from your preferred app store and start exploring.
app-storeplay-store