
‘People have stood next to my cab and ordered an Uber': The black cabbies fighting to survive
There are about 25,000 streets within a six-mile radius of Charing Cross Station, the traditional centre of London. Some are vast, Monopoly-board avenues that form part of A-roads. Others are tiny medieval passages barely wide enough for a portly mare. A rare few are Roman straight; the odd one makes some sense; but the vast majority, in a city as old and gloriously unplanned as London, are tarmacked scribbles.
To know them all would be near-impossible, but black-cab drivers do. That's the theory, anyway. The Knowledge of London, the legendarily difficult test all black cabbies must pass, takes three or four years to study for, largely because it requires memorising every route and point of interest in that circle.
The result is that a passenger can ask to be taken almost anywhere in the capital and the driver needs only the two seconds it takes for their customer to open the door and slump into the back seat to figure out the journey.
'The Knowledge really is as hard as they say,' Shane Gardner says, crawling up the rank at Waterloo Station. She's driven a black cab for nine years. 'People have talked about making it easier. But that's what makes us different, isn't it? That level of quality. We've still got to be that good or what have we got?'
Gardner's diesel TX4 is one of 28 black cabs on the rank this Monday lunchtime. A few years ago, she says, 'the queue would have gone all the way round the station, down the ramp, and back down onto York Road. We kept moving because the fares kept coming. There's so few of us now.'
These are lean times for black cabs. Recent figures show the number licensed by Transport for London (TfL) dropped from 22,810 in 2013-14 to just 14,470 in 2023-24, while only 104 new drivers were licensed last year – 10 per cent of the figure in 2016. If those numbers continue at this rate, there will be no black cabs on the road at all in 2045.
The reasons for this are manifold, everything from the rise of Uber and other private hire companies to cycle lanes, the threat of driverless cars, and the difficulty of The Knowledge. Drivers invariably mention the soaring cost of zero-emission capable taxis. Now the only model able to be licensed, their price has risen 40 per cent to £75,000 in the last eight years.
'They're too expensive. Fellas my age, we own our cabs. But I'll never get one of the electrics. The young blokes you see driving them work for the finance company, because they'll never own it,' says Phil, another cabbie on the Waterloo rank. He's 64, and has been in the trade since 1981.
'In my day you could take out a loan, work like the clappers for three years, then own it. I planned on being in this till I retire, and we used to be able to keep our cabs for 15 years, after that you can't relicense them. Well, our lovely mayor, Sadiq – sorry, * Sir * Sadiq Khan – brought that down to 12. Who's going to take a massive loan right at the end of their career? It's that or rent one for £3-400 per week. Maybe it's OK for young fellas but look up and down this rank. It's not young fellas.'
He's correct. TfL statistics show that 62 per cent of cabbies are aged over 53, and given every driver I speak to during a day riding black cabs around the city has to be crowbarred away from extolling the negatives, the applications probably aren't pouring in.
Traditionally, cabbies call the lean, early months of the year 'kipper season' (as it's all they could afford to eat), but that season's now longer and longer. 'Takings are down,' Gardner says. 'You're waiting longer at stations, the hands aren't going up… It's not pretty for people coming into the trade.'
Still, when nudged towards positives, Gardner, whose cab bears the sticker 'Mama's Taxi', can still find them. 'I like being my own boss, sorting my own hours,' she says. 'You meet so many interesting people, all sorts, and if you want time out to do up your house or go to your kids' schools or whatever, you can. Besides I like driving, I enjoy it.'
At Waterloo, I ask Gardner to take the photographer, Geoff, and me to Russell Square. It's a straightforward one – Waterloo Bridge, Strand Underpass, Southampton Row, it's on your left, if you pass the old Hotel Russell, now the Kimpton, you've gone too far – but when she took The Knowledge, examiners could have thrown any of thousands of possible 'runs' at her.
During the process, candidates at 'Knowledge College' are summoned for 'appearances', potentially dozens of them, at which an examiner tests them on multiple A-B routes. These won't just be streets but also 'places of interest' like hospitals, prominent offices, transport hubs, sights, consulates, green spaces and possibly even pieces of public art.
Afterwards, they could make fairly light work of the following: 'Grafton Square to the Myddleton Arms, please, stopping at the Gabon Embassy, then the Traveller's Club where my guest will jump in, but we also need to pick some things up from the Cabinet Office and the CBRE headquarters en route. Oh and it'd be good to pass the 'Boadicea' statue if there's time?'
Studies have suggested a black-cab driver's hippocampus enlarges due to the sheer amount of names, places and routes they come to know. It is, Gardner says, a skill that never leaves you. Her father drove a black cab for 22 years. He has Alzheimer's disease now, but while many of his most important memories have slipped, he still retains his in-built GPS.
She smiles. 'I can say to him, 'What can you tell me about the Strand, Dad?' And he'll come to life and go, 'Well you've got the Savoy Hotel, then Somerset House, then Waterloo Bridge or down to Fleet Street and St Paul's…' It's amazing. Some stuff is embedded so deeply, I guess, it just never leaves.'
Gardner bases herself on the rank at Waterloo as it was her father's patch, too. 'Some days you can sit there for two hours waiting for a fare, then someone asks for Tommy's [St Thomas's Hospital, about a 2 minute walk away]. You just have to laugh.'
The furthest she's gone is Oxford – a £300 fixed fare in a snowstorm. Other trips she'll willingly give for free. The generosity of drivers can vary, but there are unwritten credos in the trade. 'I did a Great Ormond Street run earlier, so I did that for free.'
That's typical. It's also tradition for drivers to not charge for their very first and very last runs, and many will give free trips to veterans on Remembrance Day. Unlike a lot of taxi companies, black cabs never refuse a woman in labour, either. And some might look kindly on damsels in distress.
'I picked up a young lady on the Aldwych to go towards Canary Wharf once,' says Gardner. 'I kept chatting to her and she was quite worse for wear. Then she got very aggressive so I stopped and called the police and an ambulance. I still wanted to take care of her.
'The police proceeded to take her to the most expensive hotel in Canary Wharf to sleep it off. So I guess she learnt her lesson when she woke up...'
Like every cabbie I meet today, Gardner isn't a fan of the current mayor. 'I don't think he's on our side at all.' This isn't necessarily party political, she simply feels that under Khan's management, London has become a worse place to be a driver.
'I've lost the love of it a bit, I'm staying out longer and longer. I've had enough of the traffic. They're trying to bring down emission levels but how is that happening when you've got a load of stationary traffic with their engines running?'
Well, I guess the idea is that you go electric. 'There used to be all these enticements – no road tax, Congestion Charge exemption, the cost of charging was low. Now those are gone, or [in the case of the Congestion Charge, which will include electric vehicles from December this year] about to go.'
There has been an organised taxi service in London since at least 1654, when the government of Oliver Cromwell ordained that hackney coachmen and carriages in and around the cities of London and Westminster should be regulated by the Court of Alderman of the City of London. The name 'hackney carriage', incidentally, has nothing to do with the now trendy borough to the east, but instead the Norman French word hacquenée, which refers to a horse suitable for hiring.
The drivers are rightly proud of their culture. 'We're a good laugh, on the whole. Quite funny people. And we look after each other,' Gardner says. When Uber arrived, around a decade ago, she found 'they were quite aggressive to women drivers, blocking me in, but we had WhatsApp groups, so I'd get back up…'
At Russell Square is a green cabman's shelter. In Victorian and Edwardian Britain, 61 such wooden huts – the shape of a shipping container, and originally built to be no wider than a horse and cart, per city regulations – were built near taxi ranks to offer drivers a place to rest and get a hot drink or meal during their shift.
Today there are 13 left. Inside each is an attendant, a small kitchen, room for about a dozen cabbies to sit on a U-shaped bench, and a hatch at the other end for passing trade. A strict 'no alcohol or gambling' rule operates, and non-cabbies are prohibited from going inside.
There are no drivers at the Russell Square shelter when I arrive, so I hail another black cab, this time driven by Zoe Flint, 51, who's normally based at King's Cross but sometimes cruises, looking for a raised hand in Holborn and Covent Garden.
'We can't just blame Uber for the situation we're in,' she says, pulling back onto Southampton Row. 'There's too many vehicles on the road full stop. We're all competing for the same bit of tarmac. It's frustrating for me and frustrating for the passenger, seeing that meter go up.'
Hers is an electric cab rented from Sherbet, the leading eco black cab company. 'Sherbet Dip-Dab, cab,' Flint says. 'The tourists like that one, if they even know what cockney rhyming slang is…'
A decade ago, she says, Uber, Bolt and other app-based private hire companies were muscling in on the patch and stealing fares. 'I don't know if that's quite the case now, they were just new kids on the block. We're actually very competitive, price-wise.'
It's true: you hear people remark more and more that Uber – with all its algorithmic surge-pricing – has become more expensive than a metered cab in London these days. Add to that the fact you can pre-order a black cab on multiple apps, plus the quality of the service, and you realise it's not the product that's the problem.
Flint comes to a stop. 'The sad thing is, we probably will die out. We may be competitive, but if you don't use it, you lose it.' A few days after we meet, TfL, which sets black cab meter prices, announced fares would increase in April by double the rate of inflation in an effort to address rising costs for drivers and to ensure that a career as a cabbie remained viable.
We've made it to Grosvenor Gardens in Belgravia, and another green cabman's shelter. At the tiny hatch, the attendant, Fliss, leans out and scrutinises me, then invites me in through the side door to meet the cabbies. You'd never know it from the outside, but a cackle of six drivers huddle in the back, joking and gossiping.
A few scatter with my arrival. Between them, they might well have driven all the roads in London. 'Between us,' Paul Warby says, looking around the room and weighing the likelihood up, 'yeah, it's possible.' Warby, 59, has been driving for 19 years. Sitting opposite him, Judith Elliot, 57, has done 26 years. Next to her, 62 year-old Marion Margetson is on 27.
'So I'm just a rookie, a junior one,' Warby says, smiling. 'A butter boy.'
A what?
'But-a-boy. A new driver. We call them butter boys. People say it's because they'd be taking the bread and butter from the mouths of older drivers and their families, but really it's but-a-boy, as in, you are but a boy.' Later I look this up; opinions vary.
Tossing the question of why so many drivers have disappeared, they each give a different reason at once. 'Khan!' says one driver on his way out. 'Want to know what we call him? Khanage. Man couldn't run a bath…'
'Uber!' comes another cry, this time from Elliot. 'It is, look at the numbers.' She takes out her phone to check TfL figures for the end of March. 'There's 16,000 black-cab drivers and 106,000 private licences. That's why there's so much traffic.'
Margetson blames road closures, low-traffic neighbourhoods, cycle lanes and the like meaning black cabs cannot offer a door-to-door service anymore – once a point of difference.
'There's a massive recession coming, and we can see it because who are always the first people to tighten their belts? The wealthy. We've started to be seen as a luxury item, and we can see they're taking cabs less,' Elliot says.
'Can I ask you a question?' she continues, 'when did you last hail a cab?' To my shame, I cannot remember. Whenever it was, I probably put it on expenses. 'People don't look up and hail, they look down and at their phones if they need a cab. I've had people stand next to my cab and order an Uber.'
It's a sentiment Phil, back at Waterloo, was keen to make. 'Talk to a 20-year-old and they do not give a toss about us, they didn't grow up with black cabs, they don't know the value of it. That's why this rank will be owned by Uber or some other tech company one day,' was his frank estimation.
Outside the shelter, Elliot cleans a speck of London plane tree bark from the roof of her taxi. 'What people don't realise is that if we lose black cabs, it's not just the cabs. It's the mechanics, the garages, these shelters, all those jobs too,' she says.
Famously, London's black cabs must have a turning circle of 25ft, allowing them to perform the nimblest u-turns in a city of preposterously narrow streets. No need to pause, no need to reverse. Over the decades, this has come to form the cabbie character. They don't like to sit still, and they hate going backwards.
'It's not in our nature to sit in traffic. We just want another fare, we don't like the meter running up, we like to keep moving,' Elliot says. 'A to B, A to B.' She looks to Warby for agreement, who nods. Then she unlocks her cab. 'That's it really.'
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2 days ago
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The Sun
2 days ago
- The Sun
I took a ride in AI-powered robotaxis set to hit UK – they have more gadgets than James Bond but I missed key element
AS my odd-looking taxi pulled up, it was comforting to know that the driver couldn't have downed a skinful the night before. And I was certain this cabbie wouldn't spend the journey telling me why my football team, Crystal Palace, aren't as good as I think they are. 6 6 6 That's because there wasn't a human behind the steering wheel. I was about to take a ride in an AI-powered robotaxi. They are coming to Britain next year after driverless vehicles were given the go-ahead. Ride-hailing app Uber will be allowed to put passengers' lives in the hands of artificial intelligence in London. For someone who has struggled to comprehend tech since the invention of the SodaStream, this ride was a frightening prospect. Well, would you get on an airliner without a pilot? Gazing out on to the busy freeway in Phoenix, Arizona, with giant SUVs motoring past, I had a similar pang of nerves about riding in the driverless contraption that had come to pick me up. More gadgets than Bond I had read some horror stories about robotaxies going rogue. In 2021, a self-driving car in the sunbelt city became confused by traffic cones then drove away from a technician sent to rescue it. Eventually the Waymo motor had to be disabled so a human driver could get behind the wheel. The passenger filmed the 33-minute debacle and plastered it on YouTube. Last year a General Motors-owned Cruise robotaxi struck and dragged a pedestrian 20 feet in San Francisco. The woman — who was injured — survived the ordeal. And in 2018 a cyclist was killed by an Uber cyber car with a safety driver in Phoenix. Watch moment passenger left TRAPPED in driverless car 'going round in circles' after robot taxi malfunctions The back-up driver had been looking down to watch The Voice TV show which he was streaming when Elaine Herzberg, 49, crossed a darkened road in front of her. It was the first fatal collision involving a fully autonomous vehicle. Nevertheless, with self-driving cars being touted as the future of motoring, it was time for a test run. Booking my ride was simple. I downloaded the app of Waymo One — a self-drive firm owned by Google's parent company Alphabet — and punched in my details along with where I wanted to go. With the thermometer hitting 39C in this desert city, I was on the hunt for a nice, cool pint of Guinness and was told Casey Moore's Oyster House was the place to go. At least there would be no argument about designated drivers. Soon I was tracking the Waymo on my phone as it surged to my hotel through the early rush-hour traffic. And then the gleaming white Jaguar I-PACE came into view — with no one at the wheel. On the roof was something that looked like a giant police blue light with my initials displayed on it. Unlocking its door with the app, I sat in the back (no one is allowed in the driver's seat) as the Waymo played calming elevator music. 6 6 I pressed a screen between the front seats saying 'start ride'. Then, a bit like KITT, the car from Eighties TV series Knight Rider, Waymo began talking. As we pulled smoothly away from the hotel forecourt, the robotaxi told me to buckle up. And then, with the steering wheel spinning as if by some invisible force, we eased into the Phoenix traffic as I let out an involuntary 'whoaa!' On the opposite side of the road cars were whizzing towards us but all-electric Waymo deftly navigated the right path before pulling up at a red light. How did it know it was red? That's one for the brainiacs. Swinging left into East Apache Boulevard, I caught sight of a couple of pedestrians ahead. How would the cyber motor react? My Waymo One slowed and made sure to give them a wide berth. That's because it is bristling with more gadgets than a James Bond car. Its sensors include cameras, radars and something called lidars which use lasers to create a 3D image of the vehicle's surroundings. The in-car computer then makes sense of all the data that Waymo is gathering. And, learning to trust the tech, I was soon beginning to relax. All speed limits were observed and driving rules obeyed. The ride was smooth and felt safe. Perhaps I was better off without a driver after all. Wayve's technology operates more like a human driver would learning to drive in one city and then applying that knowledge to drive in new places. Bill Gates Britain's Department for Transport estimates that 88 per cent of road accidents are caused by human error. Soon we were pulling up outside the pub. Keeping the rear door open a little too long, an actual human called Brian came through on Waymo's intercom to check I was OK. He was certainly more amenable than Johnny, the robot driver of the taxi in 1990 sci-fi flick Total Recall, who Arnold Schwarzenegger ripped out of the cab in frustration be- cause he was not listening to his in- structions. My 14-minute journey over 1.6 miles had cost $9.33 (just over £7). And, unlike most things in America, there was no need to add a tip. Waymo One serves 180 square miles of Arizona's capital — that makes Phoenix the largest fully autonomous ride-hail service zone in the world. After a couple of pints, I decided to summon another Waymo. Not arriving at the front of the pub as I had imagined, it headed to- wards a park- ing lot at the back. Would the robotaxi be able to navigate this manoeuvre? In May this year another empty Waymo trying to pick up its ride collided with a telephone pole in a Phoenix alleyway. No one was injured but pictures show a fire crew attending the scene with the robotaxi suffering a crumpled front grill. Hunk of metal Waymo voluntarily recalled its 672-car fleet for a software update in what the company called a 'safety-first approach'. The crash was put down to the robotaxi's software having 'assigned a low damage score' to the pole. It had misjudged the danger because there was no kerb or clear road edge. My Waymo pulled into the parking lot smoothly and confidently. But, unlike many humans, could it parallel park? Indeed it could and reversing is no problem either. And — despite having sampled some local beverages — there was no barked warning: 'Mate, you're not going to be sick in my cab, are you?' Soon this taxi was traversing the two miles to Society restaurant like a London cabbie with The Knowledge. The 11-minute ride cost $13.31 (£10.25). Again, no tip required by the computer chip and its hunk of metal. With millions employed as drivers across the globe, tech titans are investing billions in robo vehicle technology for what they see as a lucrative driverless future. 6 Last year Elon Musk unveiled Tesla's Cybercab at the Warner Bros studio lot in Hollywood. The world's richest man insisted that the sleek, golden two-seater car without a steering wheel or pedals will be on sale 'before 2027'. Meanwhile Amazon-owned Zoox's self-driving cars will soon be available to the public in Las Vegas. In Scotland a robobus with a back-up driver plies a route over the Forth Road Bridge. Wuhan in China — where Covid was first detected — has more than 400 self-driving Apollo Go cars taking passengers. Tech giant Baidu delayed increasing the fleet to a thousand after complaints by human taxi drivers. A cab firm in the city accused the robotaxis of 'taking jobs from the grass roots'. It will be far from the last time humans protest about losing their jobs to AI-powered robots. Self-driving cars could bring jobs, investment, and the opportunity for the UK to be among the world leaders in new technology. Transport Secretary Heidi Alexander Over here, the UK start-up Wayve will be teaming up with Uber for its taxi service next spring. If all goes well, the plan is to roll out these services across the country in the second half of 2027 when last year's Automated Vehicles Act comes fully into force. Founded in 2017 by New Zealand-born Alex Kendall, Wayve believes it can produce robocars that are safer and cheaper than anyone else by giving the car 'its own brain.' Its AI-driven software can be used to make any car self-driving using cameras. The live images are used to train itself to drive by visual observation. Microsoft founder Bill Gates went for a ride to get fish and chips in a Wayve-powered motor — with a back-up driver — while in London. The tech giant said: 'Other self-driving technologies work only on specific mapped streets. 'Wayve's technology operates more like a human driver would learning to drive in one city and then applying that knowledge to drive in new places.' In May, Wayve raised $1.05billion (£840million) in funding, with Microsoft and Nvidia, a leading chip-maker, among investors. It is the largest known investment in an AI company in Europe to date. According to the Department for Transport, the UK cybercar industry could be worth £42billion and create 38,000 jobs by 2035. This week, Transport Secretary Heidi Alexander said: 'The future of transport is arriving. 'Self-driving cars could bring jobs, investment, and the opportunity for the UK to be among the world leaders in new technology.' Back in Phoenix, I summoned another Waymo for a ride back to my hotel. By now I was relaxed enough to enjoy the experience of being driven through the night-time streets by a machine seemingly with a mind of its own. Yet, as the journey progressed, I realised I was missing something. There was no round-up of the Champions League scores and no chat about the most famous person to ride in the cab. Waymos don't do banter. You still need a human driver for that.