Prada's 'Kolhapuri chappals' make their runway debut; but this is just another Scandi scarf controversy in the making
The Kolhapuri chappal is now global. Prada's 'Kolhapuri chappals' make their runway debut — but people aren't the least bit happy(Photos: X, Korakari)
But that's where the irony lies — for something so deeply desi, and hence expansive, to be considered 'global', contingent on (and only) an unassumingly entitled nod from a luxury stronghold.
Prada showcased its Men's Spring Summer 2026 collection yesterday at the Deposito of the Fondazione Prada, Milan. Introduced by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, the Italian luxury house's lineup was whimsical, softly futuristic and as it goes, not for the mango crowd. But that's the whole point.
The rhetoric and debate over this however, took a back seat in the face of the detail that became the inevitable showstopper — Prada's very own Kolhapuri chappals (although we're pretty sure they won't be calling it that).
The slim build, the ring-ed toe and the skeletal frame — referring to these pairs of tan exoticism (sadly), as anything but Kolhapuri chappals, would make for yet another chapter in the growing volume of rooted Indian fashion, being colonised sans a sliver of acknowledgement.
Oops...they did it again
There's inspiration, and then there's unacknowledged duplication. There's a third strain to this too — a continued and problematic denial of there having been any appropriation. From the looks of it, Prada was absolutely anticipating the Kolhapuri chappals to land as chic-ly as they did. Each show invite was literally packed with a "leather ring" as a token takeaway for all the attendees. Now need we remind you that the Kolhapuri's USP sits with that toe ring.
Magnifying this to broader global narratives, the disapproving reception of Prada's Kolhapuri chappals feels like a Scandi scarf scandal 3.0.
We say 3.0, in acknowledgement of the infuriating back-and-forth when it came to asserting the true inspiration behind the viral-for-the-summer 'Ibiza' aesthetic as desi applique work and embroidery. What is the Scandinavian scarf but a dupatta? What are the Ibiza-core minis and skirts but saturated texture on western silhouettes? And what are the earthy Prada 'sandals' but literally Kolhapuri chappals?
Wake up babe, we're literally living through colonisation...of fashion.
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