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Found! Melbourne's best vanilla slice is at a suburban bakery in the north-west

Found! Melbourne's best vanilla slice is at a suburban bakery in the north-west

There are three styles of croissants. The Uruguayan horn-shaped cuernito, made with a filo-like lard pastry, is sweet, flaky and sturdy. Plump, buttery, dense Argentinian croissants are made with honey and vanilla-laced dough – have them plain or stuffed with quince jam or custard. The classic French croissant stands up to Melbourne's best with its shatter-crisp shell and whorled interior.
Meanwhile, the marraqueta is a Chilean yeasted white roll with a crunchy crust and soft centre. Formed in a long, pull-apart loop shape, it's like a hot dog roll given a schmick makeover, great for sandwiches and dunking into dips, soups or stews. They're baked all day, too – if you're hanging about at one of a handful of outside perches, you may see (and smell) them carried straight from the oven to the shelf.
You must also try the empanadas. I love the beef version, with braised, paprika-spiced topside wrapped in lard pastry, along with the quirky and satisfying Chilean-style inclusions of one black olive, two sultanas, and a slice of boiled egg. In an effort to look after halal customers, Dulce will soon swap pork lard for beef – just one example of local community outweighing recipe lore.
There's often a queue, and it can be intense when you get to the front of the line with so much to choose from, many items unknown in mainstream Melbourne baking, and staff not always equipped for a detailed rundown. If it helps, I've eaten most of the offerings and haven't struck any duds.
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