Hikes, motorbikes and beekeeping: Julia Bradbury on the outdoor wonders of Normandy

The Guardian

16-07-2025

Over the years, nature has been my best friend, my adventure playground and my therapist. Spending time in nature is incredibly powerful, which is why trying to build it into our lives is so important, whether that's going to a local park, walking along your favourite tree-lined street or starting your day perched on a windowsill and feeling the sunshine on your face.
I call these everyday, mood-boosting moments 'nature snacks' – and by comparison, going on an outdoorsy holiday to somewhere gloriously green could be considered 'a nature feast'.
Julia Bradbury en route from Portsmouth to Caen with Brittany Ferries
Recently, I was lucky enough to spend a few days in Normandy to explore some of the uncommon sights and adventures that this gorgeous part of the world has to offer. Although I travel for a living, this was my first time exploring this patch of northern France in any depth – and I was looking forward to discovering it more fully. So in keeping with this sense of slowing down and taking time to enjoy the journey, I set off from Portsmouth with Brittany Ferries on one of its new hybrid-LNG ships. There's something quite nostalgic about journeying by sea. All the stresses of travelling by plane disappear: you can move about freely, get some fresh air and enjoy some peace, which is perfect for easing yourself into a holiday.
After arriving in port at Caen, my Gallic adventure kicked off with a retro sidecar motorbike tour along the coastline, which turned out to be one of the most exciting history tours I've ever experienced.
A German gun emplacement near Longues-sur-Mer; the British Normandy Memorial in Ver-sur-Mer; with Philippe on a motorbike tour of the Normandy coastline
A wonderful guy called Philippe, who was very knowledgable and entertaining, was my 'pilot'. Our key destination was the British Normandy Memorial in Ver-sur-Mer. A permanent monument, called Standing with Giants, features 1,475 metal silhouettes of servicemen, each one representing a life lost in 1944 on D-day. The statues are accompanied by beautifully heartfelt messages from family members, thanking the men for their sacrifice, some sharing personal anecdotes about their lost loved ones. Seeing those hundreds of lives laid out was deeply touching, I found myself crying.
During my decades spent soaking in the great outdoors, I've learned that walking through a landscape is one of the best ways to really get a feel for a place, whether it's a town, a rural setting or a woodland. You see, feel and experience more when you're on your feet, so I was looking forward to embarking on a barefoot guided 'quicksand' walk in beautiful Mont-Saint-Michel. (Well, partially barefoot. I was told to bring some shorts and neoprene booties as well. You'll see why when you read on.)
The walk at low tide to Mont-Saint-Michel Abbey
The beach, which is set against the stunning backdrop of Mont-Saint-Michel Abbey, is wide open when the tide is out. You can see for miles with no sea in sight. If you jump on certain parts of the sand, it starts to wobble, which is a sign that there's quicksand underneath you. It's possible to wiggle yourself right down to your hips, which is quite an experience – once you get over that feeling of: 'Am I going to get out of here?' Walking in quicksand was a first for me, and doing something so unique felt good. I can see why the boots are advised, but next time my feet will be fully naked in the quicksand!
I also got to sample some local produce at a pick-your-own farm, Cueillette de Cagny, near Caen, which grows luscious cherries, asparagus, apples and huge leaves of chard, or blettes. Picking your own is a lovely way of connecting with the earth and your food – anyone who's harvested or foraged and enjoyed eating their spoils will know how special that feels.
Local produce at a pick-your-own farm, Cueillette de Cagny
I met some bees, including the queen bee (complete with her beautiful neon-pink crown), when I was allowed to get up close to the hives at a local bee farm. It was lovely to be safely ensconced in a beekeeper's outfit with the bees buzzing around me. And of course, I got to leave with some of the freshest local honey.
My last experience on this unique trip was a hike through the rugged Suisse Normande region, navigating narrow paths on steep cliffs that offered sweeping views of the valley and river down below. The sky was full of paragliders, like giant multicoloured butterflies, which was a real sight to behold. When you get to the top of a mountain, or you're in a woodland and you look up through a canopy of trees that are living and growing in unison with each other, it's incredibly powerful.
Collecting honey at a bee farm near Caen; hiking the Suisse Normande
At the end of my time in Normandy, I made the return journey back across the Channel with Brittany Ferries. Having the extra time and space to relax after the trip – and being able to treat myself to one more delicious French meal onboard, showcasing wonderful, locally sourced ingredients – was a lovely way to finish off my French adventure.
When you spend time looking at trees bending with the wind, listening to birdsong or watching waves from the deck of a ship, you're engaged in what's called 'soft fascination'. It's a state of mind where you're not thinking about what you need to do next, you're just engaged with that movement in front of you.
The return journey: sunset over the Channel from Caen to Portsmouth
Mentally, that's a good place to be – and it was the ideal way to end a holiday that gave me the opportunity to move my body, get some fresh air and immerse myself in nature. As the French say, qui vivra verra. She who lives, shall see.
Where to stayBrittany Ferries offers a range of accommodation from charming gites and chic hotels to villas with their own pool. For a unique and memorable stay close to Mont-Saint-Michel, Le Moulin de Ducey is a wonderfully tranquil restored watermill. Not far from Bayeux, Ferme de la Rançonnière is a former 15th-century farm that makes a great base for exploring Normandy's landing beaches.Sail into holiday mode before you even arrive. Book a Brittany Ferries Holiday with ferry and accommodation and save up to 30% on your sailing. To find your perfect French escape, just visit: brittany-ferries.co.uk/holidays