How the high street is faring in South Wales town of Usk

South Wales Argus

11 hours ago

This picturesque town blends historic charm with entrepreneurial grit, drawing in countless visitors each year to its castle ruins, riverside walks, and vibrant community events like the Usk Show.
Yet behind the postcard-perfect scenery lies a more complex economic story. As Stephanie Pearson, of Hair by Stephanie Pearson, puts it: 'Anyone offering a service is thriving, but retail is struggling.'
Her sentiment is echoed across town, where service providers, from hairdressers to hospitality venues, report being 'maxed out' with loyal customers, relying solely on reputation and word of mouth. Advertising and social media? Not necessary.
However, retail is different. Outside of the town's dominant Co-op supermarket, Usk is dotted with independent shops, many of which operate on limited footfall.
A photo of a 'closed for business sign' and inset another closed sign and a deserted main square. (Image: NQ)
One shop in particular captures the spirit of Usk's retail eccentricity: a nameless bric-a-brac store run by a man few could name, until someone finally did. His name is Emrys, and his shop is a local legend.
Overflowing with vintage oddities, this unnamed curiosity shop spills onto the pavement, its interior so densely packed that entry is nearly impossible.
If it's closed, just ring the bell and Emrys will appear. No website, no signage, no schedule. Just Emrys, and a shop that has long been there.
Mystery shop on Bridge Street. This shop does not play by the rules, it's pure Usk - only more so. (Image: NQ)
Directly opposite sits Number 49, a three-storey powerhouse of creativity and commerce run by Martin Sholl. 'We work hard and provide many things,' Martin says, 'and we are doing well. We'll be opening a venture in Monmouth this year.'
Number 49 is a café, dress agency, and interior design showroom all rolled into one. It's easier to list the things Number 49 doesn't do.
Locals rave about its afternoon tea, and nearly everything inside, from the chairs to the crockery, is for sale.
It's a business built on hard work, dedication, and a touch of eccentricity, much like Usk itself. Still, Martin acknowledges the challenges: 'Retailers find footfall is poor. People often point to a lack of parking.'
On the day he spoke, every retailer in Usk was closed, except the Co-op.
Across town, Christos Kyriakidis of The Mad Platter echoed Martin's concerns, albeit more bluntly: 'We have to attract more people to Usk. If you want to make anything work, you have to stay open.'
Christos Kyriakidis of the Mad Platter, a bustling service business. He wants more people to visit Usk and action on issues like parking availability. (Image: NQ)
However, Usk remains a hub of independent spirit. Shops like Sassy's, Parsons Bakery, The Copper Tree, and Gardenia Bridal offer everything from artisan breads and fashion to Welsh crafts and home décor.
Outside town, Craft Renaissance supports over 50 local designer-makers with a gallery and café that draw steady crowds.
Adding a dash of intellectual quirk to the hospitality scene is the Alfred Russel Wallace Restaurant, opened in 2024. It's named after Usk's own co-discoverer of natural selection.
It's a tribute to Victorian science and culinary innovation and a symbol of Usk's ability to reinvent itself while honouring its past.
Barstaff busy in the Wallace restaurant, Bridge Street, yet more confirmation that the town's economy is skewed to its thriving service sector. (Image: NQ)
With a local employment rate of 76.1 percent, low unemployment, and high self-employment, Usk is quietly thriving. Weekly earnings average £620, slightly below the national average, but offset by a lower cost of living and an enviable quality of life.
Challenges remain: limited public transport, an aging population, and rising costs for small businesses, but opportunities abound.
Usk is well-positioned to expand eco-tourism, support rural enterprise, and improve digital infrastructure to attract younger residents and remote workers.
Usk is a high trust town. Walk into a business and you will often find freedom to do and go as you please. Security and anxiety are not apparent.
The town also has a strong sense of community, with groups like Usk in Bloom and the Women's Institute having a real presence.
Ethel, of Usk in Bloom, asks us to remember how important free civil associations are and the role they play in our shared lives. Quality of life is good because of its culture, she reminds us. (Image: NQ)
Ethel Wynard-Nadzo, of Usk in Bloom, said communal gardening helped her adjust when she first came to Usk: 'There's a strong sense of community. You don't have to be alone in Usk. There's always someone to talk to.
'Things can get tense here when it comes to judging gardens, but the rest of the time, the town is relaxed,' she said.
In a world of rapid change, Usk's blend of tradition, innovation, and community makes it a model for sustainable rural growth.