I'm a dermatologist — 3 anti-aging 'universal' skincare products I always recommend
So many skincare products, anti-aging and otherwise, are "not backed by science," Ahluwalia tells Yahoo Canada. There is "no evidence" that they work. If you're going to spend the money on skincare, "invest in things that are backed by science and are good quality."
Instead of "doing 100 different things" and over-complicating your routine, Ahluwalia recommends three products that are "universal to everyone:" Sunscreen, vitamin C serum and retinol.
"I'm always surprised when [dermatology patients] want to try different treatments, but they're not wearing sunscreen every day." Forgoing daily sunscreen is a "very poor return" on your beauty investments, Ahluwalia says. The majority of photoaging comes from sun damage and exposure, so sunscreen is a "non-negotiable."
The average woman spends nearly $1,000 on beauty each year. But if you're not applying daily sunscreen, "you're not going to get the results" you want.
Skipping sunscreen and lying in tanning beds are some of the biggest skincare mistakes people make, Ahluwalia warns. If you want healthy skin, never leave your home without applying "at least an SPF 30."
"If you have issues with pigmentation in your skin, which a lot of us do, especially as we get older, I usually like a mineral-tinted sunscreen because the tint contains iron oxide, which is a visible light filter," she says.
La Roche-Posay's Anthelios Mineral One SPF 50+ Tinted Face Sunscreen has a 100 per cent mineral filter for high UVA-UVB broad-spectrum daily protection. It provides light-medium coverage and is enriched with hyaluronic acid and antioxidant vitamin E.
This 100 per cent reef-safe mineral sunscreen has a clean formula with 15 per cent non-nano zinc oxide that contains no chemical sunscreen actives.
Another staple in your skincare routine should be a "really good" vitamin C serum. A well-formulated vitamin C serum "can really improve your skin's ability to neutralize free radicals, so it boosts your sunscreen and protects your skin, kind of like an environmental shield," Ahluwalia says.
If you're in the market for a vitamin C serum, Ahluwalia suggests looking for those that have undergone the most studies and meet a threshold called the "Duke Parameters."
The Duke Parameters dictate that a vitamin C serum should contain pure L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C), have an acidic pH between 2.0 and 3.5, and be at a concentration of 10 to 20 per cent. Why? These parameters mean the serum will be the "most effective" and penetrate the skin the best.
Ahluwalia recommends: Vichy LiftActiv 15% Vitamin C Serum
Ahluwalia recommends: La Roche-Posay Pure Vitamin C12 Serum
Vichy's vitamin C serum is a great mid-priced option.
This dermatologist-approved serum is suitable for sensitive skin.
"I always recommend a retinol or something in the retinoid family, whether it's prescription grade or cosmeceutical," Ahluwalia tells Yahoo Canada.
"Something that suits a patient's skin type to maximize results because retinols are one of the most studied ingredients in dermatology; they do a lot of different things. They help increase cell turnover. They help with collagen stimulation. They help with fine lines and wrinkles. They can help with pigmentation."
Many medical-grade retinol products are covered by prescription drug plans, which, if you can tolerate them, is a great, more affordable option than a lot of in-store alternatives. However, if you want to avoid prescriptions, Ahluwalia recommends steering clear of derivatives and opting for "pure" retinol formulations instead.
"Neutrogena has some nice options," she says. "They have capsules and they have an overnight cream."
Ahluwalia recommends: Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle Repair Retinol Serum Capsules
Ahluwalia recommends: Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle Repair 0.3% Retinol Pro+ Night Cream
Each fragrance-free capsule contains a precise dose of pure retinol.
This retinol night cream targets the look of deep wrinkles and stubborn dark spots.
One of the most common blunders Ahluwalia sees in her practice is overcomplicated skincare routines.
"You want to use products that are tailored toward your skin type," she says. "Going with trends is not the right thing to do. Invest in good quality products that work and invest in procedures that work because that's going to give you long-term benefits for the skin."
In addition to skipping sunscreen and using tanning beds, Ahluwalia recommends avoiding manicures that are cured with UV light. "They're very damaging to the skin," she says.
Instead of skipping your manicure entirely, she recommends manicures that are "cured with LED light or just a regular manicure or dip nails."
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However, Dr. Modi reassured me that the online interface is always being updated, and that the patient-facing side doesn't always align perfectly with the clinical interpretation. In my case, it may have been caused by head injuries I sustained during my time as a cheerleader. I had no signs of white matter disease, aneurysm, growths, or masses, and overall, my brain volume was very healthy. Scoliosis. I knew about this 'minor finding' previously from a recent X-ray. I have 'mild' scoliosis in my lumbar spine. Spondyloarthropathy of the cervical and thoracic spine. These are two 'minor findings' I was also aware of from previous imaging. Spondyloarthropathy is the medical term for degenerative arthritis. I have long struggled with neck and upper back pain, and have been undergoing treatment (mainly physical therapy) for a few months now. Discussing these findings with Dr. Modi reassured me that I'm doing everything right in my current treatment plan. Hemorrhagic ovarian cysts. This was my only 'moderate finding;' one that I was not previously aware of. While I'm not experiencing any symptoms due to these benign, fluid-filled ovarian cysts, I'm glad I know about them now in case they ever do rupture or cause any complications. While Dr. Modi didn't officially diagnose me, he suggested these may be a sign of polycystic ovary syndrome (PCOS) due to my semi-irregular menstrual cycle, history of acne, and recent struggle to lose weight. He suggested some supplements I might consider taking and made me aware of the typical treatment and medications doctors usually prescribe, should I ever seek that. Dense breast tissue. The scan also revealed that I have dense breast tissue, which means I have more glandular tissue (as opposed to fat tissue) in my breasts, which may make it more difficult to screen for breast cancer with a typical mammogram. I was already aware of this, as I have a history of breast cysts, which is why I get regular ultrasounds. I was a little surprised the Prenuvo MRI did not pick these up, but Dr. Modi explained that the threshold for breast cysts at Prenuvo is around five millimeters. So, anything smaller than that (which my cysts likely are) would not be picked up by the MRI. 'It's a see-a-lot test, not a see-everything test,' Dr. Modi said. Following my bloodwork and MRI scan, Dr. Modi went over my brain health assessment, which measured the volume of every structure within the brain. Thankfully, all of those structures in my brain fell into normal ranges. Finally, we discussed my body composition analysis, which showed data for total muscle mass, subcutaneous fat, and visceral fat. This test is very useful, says Dr. Berry. 'Knowing visceral fat and muscle mass is much better than just looking at Body Mass Index (BMI),' he explains. (Note: Prevention no longer uses BMI as a measurement of health.) Again, thankfully, Dr. Modi ensured that for the most part, my analysis falls into 'normal' ranges for my age and sex, except that I actually have a bit more muscle mass than average, which is a good thing. This test was really interesting to look at because it included a very detailed analysis of hip and lower body muscle volume, as well as a symmetry analysis. None of this was major, but it did confirm a few things I suspected about the way my body works and moves. Are whole-body MRIs the future of preventative healthcare? It's difficult to say. 'The essence of what Prenuvo does, and I think it's poorly understood, is that we don't by ourselves prevent anything. But, we can absolutely help a patient choose their own destiny and pursue the right preventative strategies, because we can show them what's going on in them, as opposed to just general advice,' Dr. Durand explains. However, as Dr. Durand and the Prenuvo website state, there are limitations. I asked Dr. Berry, an unaffiliated family physician, whether whole-body MRIs can meaningfully replace or reduce the need for standard individualized screenings based on modern-day recommendations. He said, not right now. It doesn't replace guideline-based screening. 'It can't do what a colonoscopy or mammogram does, and it doesn't offer the same level of detail. It's a supplemental tool, not a substitute,' Dr. Berry explained. 'If it could fully replace traditional tests, I'd be on board, but the evidence just isn't there yet.' Dr. Kazanjian adds that whole-body MRI 'tends to be more effective at detecting lesions in the kidneys, pancreas, lymph nodes, and bones, among some others,' but that the screening's ability to characterize them as benign or malignant may be limited. She adds that whole-body MRI does not effectively screen for some of the most common cancers, including skin cancer, breast cancer, colon cancer, lung cancer, and cervical cancer. And while there will certainly be 'findings of import on these exams,' including brain aneurysms, evidence of autoimmune diseases, metabolic syndromes, and small cancers, among others, Dr. Kazanjian explains, it's impossible to say whether whole-body MRI truly leads to improved health outcomes or whether those results would be uncovered via traditional screening methods. There's also the aspect of incidental or benign findings, which are clinically insignificant (meaning they cause no harm), but create a type of 'scanxiety,' or anxiety felt by patients pre- and post-scan, Dr. Kazanjian says. The cost and impact My Enhanced Screening at the Manhattan location has a cost of $4,500, but it varies based on the exact scan you choose, and sometimes, the location. There are less costly options, like the regular whole-body MRI ($2,500) or the torso-only MRI ($999). Prenuvo also offers its Warriors Program, which offers discounted services to first responders, military members, and veterans. While some doctors, like Dr. Kazanjian, do recommend whole-body MRI for high-risk individuals (like those with a strong family history of cancer and/or genetic mutations) and for patients with cancers such as multiple myeloma and lymphoma, it is generally not recommended for the general population, she explains. 'I do not think this is cost-effective for the population, particularly given the large percentage of false positives with the necessity for costly follow-ups,' says Dr. Kazanjian. 'I say this even if the initial service were cost-free.' Dr. Durand also acknowledges that not everybody can afford the Prenuvo model of healthcare today. That's why he says Prenuvo is working every day to harness the powers of artificial intelligence to become more efficient, which will allow them to bring prices down long-term. In terms of side effects, MRI, including whole-body MRI, is mostly safe. The 'scanxiety' and inconsequential benign findings that Dr. Kazanjian points out are the main downsides. As with any MRI, it's important to tell your doctor and radiologist if you have any metal or electrical implants in your body (such as pacemakers and infusion pumps), as the magnetic field generated by the MRI machine can pose a hazard to patients in these cases. The detailed questionnaire sent over by the Prenuvo team before your appointment covers these in length, and your radiologist will also inquire about any metal in or on your body before your scan. The bottom line 'These scans have potential and may help in the future, but right now they're best for people with high risk or specific concerns or a lot of disposable income,' Dr. Berry explains. 'For the average person, they often create more questions than answers. Too much testing can lead to fear, cost, and harm, especially when there's no clear benefit. Prevention and early detection are very important, but it has to be reasonable and relevant, not just expensive.' Reflecting on my experience with the whole-body MRI at Prenuvo, I feel fortunate to have had access to such advanced technology. The scan provided valuable insights into my body's health that I wouldn't have otherwise had. However, while I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it to those who have the resources and are curious about their health, I do believe it's important to approach it with a balanced perspective. From a cost-benefit standpoint, it's not yet a universally essential tool in healthcare, and its value largely depends on individual circumstances and priorities. 'The best advice I can give to the people reading this is the advice I live by and the advice I give my patients. This is the same advice I give my mother—and I love my mother. It's to live a healthy life—keep a healthy weight, eat whole grains and vegetables and lean protein, exercise regularly, sleep seven hours a night, avoid tobacco and alcohol, and get annual checkups, recommended screenings, and vaccines with your doctor,' Dr. Kazanjian says. 'Prevention is the best medicine.' You Might Also Like Can Apple Cider Vinegar Lead to Weight Loss? Bobbi Brown Shares Her Top Face-Transforming Makeup Tips for Women Over 50
