This Vermont college town has grown-up taste

Boston Globe

09-05-2025

Cindi Kozak, owner of Frankie's, an award-winning restaurant in Burlington, agrees that Burlington's culinary offerings are diverse, plentiful, and top-notch. 'I think a lot of it has to do with the passion people bring and the access we have to such incredible products,' she says. 'Also being such a small state, we can establish strong connections with our farmers, brewers, distillers, cheesemakers, etc. There are a lot of world-class products being made right at our doorstep, and we get to choose the best of what's out there.'
Get Starting Point
A guide through the most important stories of the morning, delivered Monday through Friday.
Enter Email
Sign Up
Granted, you can find a good college town cheeseburger, but it's likely to be smothered in a local, award-winning cheddar, served with an exceptional artisan-crafted pint of beer.
Advertisement
'The underlying theme of locally sourced ingredients is still alive and well, and the driving force behind a lot of menus around Burlington,' says Cara Tobin, chef/co-owner of Honey Road and The Grey Jay.
Advertisement
The Farmhouse Tap & Grill is a farm-to-table gastro pub and outdoor beer garden, serving fresh, tasty food, like this specialty burger and side salad.
Pamela Wright
That goes for Burlington's beer scene, too. According to the National Brewers Association, Vermont leads the country in the number of craft breweries per capita, and Greater Burlington has the highest concentration, with more than 25 breweries, microbreweries, and brewpubs. If you're a beer lover, you probably already know this and have visited some of Burlington's highly regarded breweries, serving some of the country's most sought-after beers. But we mentioned a few here, like the
You could spend a lot of time checking out Burlington's breweries and pubs (the
Advertisement
Blind Tiger, a Lark Hotel property, is located just outside of Burlington's bustling downtown and a few blocks from the waterfront.
Pamela Wright
First, we checked into
In the end, it's tough choosing the best restaurant hit list, but after much sleuthing and eating, here are some of our favorites in Burly.
Dishes at Frankie's are well-crafted and creative, spotlighting fresh, in-season ingredients, like this Lebanese cucumber dish.
Pamela Wright
'We're hoping to do something a little different but still honor our desire to focus on what Vermont and New England food means to us,' says Kozak. This stylish restaurant, one of only 14 restaurants in the country named to Eater's 2024 Best New Restaurants list, is helmed by Kozak and Chef Jordan Ware. It's an unpretentious space, with low ceilings, whitewashed walls, and simple, light wood tables, flourished with a large marble bar with dramatic black, white, and gray swirls. The genuinely warm and friendly staff keeps it homey.
Advertisement
The dishes are well-crafted and creative, spotlighting fresh, in-season ingredients and showcasing Kozak and Ware's love of all things New England. We tried the fluffy, almost creamy fried oysters with pickled celery root and capers, and the grilled turnips with blue crab and crème fraiche, followed by a tasty pork schnitzel with lemon vinaigrette, and an herb fazzoletti with zucchini and red Russian kale. We couldn't resist a side of their sourdough bread with Vermont honey and sea salt.
A favorite among locals and visitors alike since it opened in 2013, it's the sister to its original restaurant in Waterbury, Vt. The bustling outpost has a dark, rich sports club feel, with beams and wooden ceiling trusses, stacks of firewood, burning fireplaces, leather chairs, and a cozy bar. There's also a chef's counter with front row views into the kitchen. The food is well-sourced and well-crafted, consistently good. The menu changes frequently with the seasons and available products, including small plates like scallop crudo with green garlic and pickled turnips, braised rabbit tart, and beef tongue with shitake mushrooms, and large plates like black cod with hen of the woods mushrooms and tagliatelle with grilled zucchini and crispy garlic. You can also count on an extensive cheese menu (you're in Vermont!) and their famed Parker House rolls (yes, you should order them with local honey).
Try the ever-changing flatbread choice at May Day; this one features whipped ricotta and an abundance of spring veggies.
Pamela Wright
This friendly neighborhood bistro tucked in Burlington's Old North End is not-so-slowly being discovered, thanks to rapid word-of-mouth. And it's helmed by Chef Avery Buck, who's been named a James Beard 2025 finalist for Best Chef: Northeast. The space is small, with about 20 tables or so, a bar counter, and an open kitchen. The menu is selective and focused on local in-season preparations. This is the place to go with a handful of friends to sample several plates. On our recent visit, we shared beer-battered skate cheeks with hot pepper mayo (thumbs up), duck liver parfait (so-so), and chunks of crunchy Lebanese cucumbers in a pool of tangy ramp yogurt (delightful!). But the standouts were the baby bok choy grilled to a nice char, doused with a sweet miso vinaigrette and topped with crispy sunchokes, and the house flatbread, with a layer of creamy whipped ricotta, spring vegetables, and hot honey. There are larger plates, also, like chicken schnitzel with a homemade green goddess dressing, steelhead trout with spring alliums and sorrel, and a ricotta gnocchi with baby spinach, pea shoot pesto, and oyster mushrooms. We'll be back to check out the next in-season menu. (P.S. They have a nice wine and cocktail list, too.)
Advertisement
The Grey Jay features Eastern Mediterranean cuisine, like this nicely seasoned shawarma wrap.
Pamela Wright
&
Both manager/co-owner Allison Gibson and chef/co-owner Cara Tobin of Honey Road and The Grey Jay are finalists for the James Beard 2025 Outstanding Restaurateur, a national honor. That's quite a recognition, and their talents show at these Mediterranean-style restaurants in downtown Burlington.
They opened Honey Road in 2017, serving Eastern Mediterranean small plates. Consider their 4 p.m. to 5 p.m. HoneyTime small plates: tahini hummus, baba ganoush, house-made pita, spiced fried chickpeas, braised lamb, kale salad, and more. Or go later for dinner; you'll find some of these same items on the menu, along with other mezze-style dishes.
Advertisement
Head to The Grey Jay for breakfast or lunch. This small, first-come, first-served eatery has great pastries and breakfast items, including a nicely flavored shakshuka topped with creamy feta cheese. Come lunch, go for the kale salad, one of their most popular signature dishes, served in a large bowl with crispy quinoa and flavored with a tahini vinaigrette, or the nicely seasoned chicken shawarma wrap. The Tunisian deviled eggs with harissa and fried capers are a nice munch, too.
The potato gruyere tart at Majestic is a sure winner.
Pamela Wright
One of Burlington's newest arrivals is this little gem in the South End. A couple of warnings first: They're not open on Saturday or Sunday, and they don't accept reservations. During prime dinner hours, you may have to wait (albeit with a drink in hand), but it's worth it. The open kitchen restaurant, with about 25 seats, has a fun, convivial vibe, with creative cocktails and a smart wine list. And the food, mostly small plates, is worth going back for again and again. In fact, we noticed that many diners were past guests, and the staff greeted them by name. The menu changes frequently, but you can expect a handful of cheese platters, in-season vegetable-centered plates, like a white bean salad with garlicky kale, sweet potato, and herb pesto, or roasted mushrooms and barley with pea shoots. We also enjoyed the signature meatballs, swimming in a bright tomato fennel sauce, and the layered potato gruyere tart.
Special mentions
Diane Bair and Pamela Wright can be reached at