The nonnos proudly dishing up nostalgic Italian cuisine in their Aussie kitchens

Sydney Morning Herald

2 days ago

Every Italian family knows nonna reigns supreme in the kitchen, a domain dominated and fiercely protected by women. But a mother of three from Sydney's south-west has uncovered a culinary secret: Italian grandfathers can also be masters in the kitchen.
Jessica Timpano is the brains behind Nonno in the Kitchen, a heartwarming celebration of grandfathers who share their love of cooking through YouTube and social media.
The passion project began in 2023, when Timpano decided to start a YouTube channel. 'When my mum didn't want to be on camera, I went for my dad, who shared traditional recipes and some gardening tips, too.'
With little fuss or fanfare, Timpano's father, Bart Nicoliello, took centre stage and has now featured in dozens of videos.
'I wasn't nervous, I don't care about the camera,' says the 80-year-old, who declares Italian cooking 'the best in the world'.
'I cook the dishes I grew up eating, the ones my mum used to cook,' says Nonno Bart.
Since then, Timpano has documented many other nonnos as they take over the kitchen to prepare their favourite dishes.
'I started off visiting people I knew: my dad, my father-in-law, my uncle, and then my parents' friends, friends of friends, and my friends' dads. There aren't many nonnos out there who can cook, but I wanted to put the spotlight on those who could,' says Timpano.
The recipes they share are simple but special; some invented, others passed down through generations.
'There's so much nostalgia in these recipes,' she says. 'It reminds them of home.'
But when Timpano began uploading her videos to Instagram, her project took off.
'People began reaching out to me,' she says. 'I have travelled to Melbourne for some filming, and I hope to line up some nonni in Adelaide, then probably Perth and beyond.'
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The Instagram channel now has more than 18,000 followers, and Timpano has even been invited onto Nine's Today program.
Once the camera is packed away, Timpano sits down to enjoy the meal with each nonno and their family.
'It is not just about their recipes,' she says. 'In a way, I allow them to reminisce on the past. They share their stories of when they migrated to Australia, and the difficulties they confronted.'
'There's so much nostalgia in these recipes. It reminds them of home.'
Nonnos in the Kitchen founder Jessica Timpano
For Timpano, the project is an important way to connect nonnos to their childhood and homeland as each dish unlocks a trove of memories, bridging past and present.
If you're looking for cooking inspiration, these recipes are humble and hearty. But best of all, they're nonno-approved.
Nonno Bart's crocche' di patate
These simple potato croquettes make a perfect starter or snack.
INGREDIENTS
4 brushed potatoes (peel on)
2 eggs, separated
70g grated parmesan cheese
1 tbsp chopped parsley
salt and pepper
1 cup breadcrumbs
canola oil for frying
METHOD
Wash the potatoes well, place them in a saucepan, cover with water and boil until fork-tender.
Drain and set them aside until they are cool enough to peel.
While they are still warm, pass the potatoes through a potato ricer or mash with a potato masher until smooth.
Place the mashed potatoes in a large bowl, add the egg yolks (reserve the whites for later), parmesan cheese, parsley, and salt and pepper to taste.
Using your hands, mix the potato until a dough is formed. If it is too dry, add a dash of milk; if too soft, add more grated cheese or some breadcrumbs.
Place the reserved egg whites in a shallow bowl and whisk lightly. Place the breadcrumbs on a separate plate.
Grab some of the mixture and roll it into a ball, then shape it into a cylinder.
Dip the potato into the egg whites, then coat with the breadcrumbs. Set aside on another plate and continue shaping and dipping the rest of the mixture.
Heat about 2-3cm of canola oil in a small saucepan over medium-high heat.
Once oil is hot, gently place the crocche' one by one into the hot oil, frying on all sides until golden. Place on a paper towel to drain excess oil. Serve hot.
Makes 18-20
Nonno Peter's octopus salad
Peter Colosimo, distantly related to Jessica Timpano, was born in Martirano Vecchio, Calabria. He arrived at Circular Quay in 1962, aged 11, to start a new life in Sydney with his family. He still remembers waving goodbye to his nonna at the wharf in Italy and had little idea what the future would bring in Australia. He says this recipe results in the most tender octopus ever.
I NGREDIENTS
1 large octopus, cleaned
1 red onion, cut into quarters
1 lemon, cut into quarters
1 orange, cut into quarters
1 garlic clove, whole
4 parsley stems
pinch of oregano
1 tbsp salt
olive oil
1 or 2 wine corks (see note)
For the marinade
¼ cup olive oil
1 tbsp red wine vinegar
1 tbsp balsamic vinegar
lemon juice and zest, to taste
¼ bunch parsley, chopped
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
salt and pepper
capers (optional)
METHOD
Place a pot of water large enough to fit the octopus over medium-high heat and add the onion, lemon, orange, garlic, parsley, oregano, salt, a dash of oil and the corks. Bring to a boil.
Once boiling, pick up the octopus by the head and dip the tentacles only into the water three times and you will see them curl up. After the third dip, drop the whole octopus into the boiling water.
Place the lid on the pot, reduce to a simmer and cook for 45 minutes to an hour. After 45 minutes, test if the octopus is tender by poking a knife through the middle of the head. If it inserts easily, it is ready. If it is still a little tough, continue to boil.
Meanwhile, combine all the marinade ingredients in a bowl and allow all flavours to infuse. Taste and add more vinegar, salt or lemon as desired.
Once the octopus is ready, turn off the heat and leave the octopus in the pot with the water for about 30 minutes to cool slightly.
Remove the octopus from the pot, drain in a colander for 2 minutes, then chop into bite-sized pieces.
Add the octopus to the marinade, combine well, and serve.