Can Seoul Fashion Week be improved?

Korea Herald

06-02-2025

Seoul Fashion Week criticized for lack of international appeal and innovation, but optimism remains for K-fashion's future
"Can we really say that Seoul is the fashion hub of Asia when Seoul Fashion Week continues to be as it is?" asked Jung Joon-ho, CEO of Lotte Department Store, during his keynote speech at the Seoul Fashion Forum, held Wednesday as part of the 2025 fall-winter Seoul Fashion Week event at Dongdaemun Design Plaza in Seoul.
Jung pointed out that if the event continues to struggle with attracting notable designer brands and a significant number of buyers, it will be impossible for Seoul to claim its place as the center of fashion in Asia.
Only 16 brands were scheduled to hold shows at Seoul Fashion Week this season, down from 21 brands the previous two seasons.
'We have lucrative designer brands such as Gentle Monster, Mardi Mercredi, Matin Kim and Anderson Bell, but for them, success means taking their shows to Paris Fashion Week,' he said. 'Seoul Fashion Week needs to become an event where people from all over the world can see the brands they want to see when they come here. Looking at the list of participating brands this season, I found no clear message they want to convey. It needs to provide an environment where foreign buyers interested in Korean products can discover attractive offerings.'
Jung added that he had heard from foreign industry insiders who find Seoul Fashion Week "boring" because it only features Korean brands. 'There are foreign brands that wish to expand their reach in Korea. Even luxury brands such as Louis Vuitton held an iconic show here two years ago. But these events should not be isolated. They should be integrated into Seoul Fashion Week.'
Having worked in the fashion industry for more than 30 years, Jung also criticized the lack of live entertainment at the event, something Paris Fashion Week is known for. 'Seoul Fashion Week lacks a dynamic environment where industry insiders can gather and mingle,' he said.
Despite his concerns, Jung remains optimistic about the future of K-fashion, particularly with the creative potential of Generation Z and Generation Alpha. 'Now, when the world is focusing on Korea thanks to its success in K-drama, K-pop and K-food, is the time to nurture star brands and designers that can make Seoul the 'Paris of Asia.''
Antonio De Matteis, CEO of Kiton Group, known for its Italian menswear, echoed Jung's thoughts on nurturing the next generation of talent. "We need to continue tailoring our best products. Our philosophy is to bring the new generation into our company," he said.
De Matteis also emphasized the importance of quality in attracting customers. "They want quality. They want uniqueness and simplicity. You also need to listen to customers and evolve based on their feedback."
He noted that Korea is both an advanced market and one with exponential growth potential. "We ask our designers to come to Seoul because it's a market, especially for the younger generation, that gives you new ideas and a fresh perspective," he said.