At Pitti Uomo, the refined order and chaos of Children of the Discordance

Fashion Network

18-06-2025

Children of the Discordance chose the imposing Stazione Leopolda for its first show in Europe. Guest designer at Pitti Uomo, Japanese designer Hideaki Shikama, a regular on the Tokyo catwalks for his seventh show, immersed his guests in the dark, sophisticated world of his street-culture-inspired brand, with its singular, urban aesthetic.
See catwalk
With the percussive and electronic sounds of popular Japanese DJ Chaki Zulu providing the soundtrack, the atmosphere was underground in every sense of the word. Both in the dusty, misty palette of the clothes, and in the allure of the bad-boy models wearing studded boots signed by Korean label Aims Studio. Models hid their heads under hoods, scarves tied in turbans, or cowboy hats. Some wearing mouth jewels made by Tokyo-based Jewellers, which gave them an eerie metallic smile. It's no coincidence that the collection was entitled "Enfant Terrible".
This atmosphere was sublimated by smoky hues, hand-bleached effects, and different material layering techniques, imbuing many pieces with an unexpected authenticity, as if the garments were sun-worn or sun-washed.
After starting out in the boutique Ships and launching the cutting-edge multi-brand Acycle in Tokyo's Harajuku district in 2005, Shikama, now 45, founded Children of the Discordance with friends in 2011, which he has run solo since 2013. From the outset, he has been driven by an artistic and artisanal vein, making his own fabrics and prints.
Baggy pants with large pockets or drawstrings, in silk or nylon to layer over boxer shorts, tracksuits, and sweatshirts stained via the tie and dye technique, decorated with patches or embroidered cabalistic designs were just some of the most striking pieces in the collection. Some models, such as the zipped pants, were reminiscent of the creations of his compatriot Jun Takahashi, the designer behind Undercover.
See catwalk
The 35 looks in this collection for Spring/Summer 2026 revisited designs from Children of the Discordance's past and new creations inspired by a recent trip to Vietnam, where Shikama relied on embroidery workshops, the rest being produced in Japan. This season, the designer delved into the world of tailoring through a creative collaboration with a London-trained menswear designer and his close collaborator. The wardrobe was enriched by tailored shirts, jackets, pants, and shorts with clean lines.
Jackets in particular, including the tuxedo jacket, were the subject of a refined composition of different fabrics and men's wool sheets, in subtle patchworks. Some jackets alone combined some twenty different precious wools. Other models were overdyed, while others frayed, like a pair of silk shorts with a clean edge for an "unfinished" effect, while patterned silk ties were adorned with medallions.
As a wedding outfit, a crinoline dress made from hundreds of recycled jersey sweaters concluded the show with panache.
Today, Children of the Discordance is distributed through some 60 multi-brand retailers, almost half of them in Japan and the rest in Europe and North America. Prices are in the mid-range, with shirts priced at over 500 euros, given the high level of finishing and hand-crafting.