A fashion legacy: How Ratianah is rewriting kebaya culture
How did you start your journey into fashion. What sparked your entry and what continues to drive your work today?
I've always had a need to create—to elevate the simple into something personal, something meaningful. Whether it was art or sewing, my instinct has always been: how can I make this more thoughtful? That curiosity led me to learn the basics of tailoring, which slowly grew into something deeper. The kebaya, especially, holds a sacred place in my heart. It's not just a garment, it's a cultural memory, a story that deserves to continue. I began my label with the hope of making pieces that reflected my identity, while also creating something others could see themselves in. My brand is rooted in both personal passion and a larger desire to honour and preserve heritage.
What are the biggest challenges you've faced as a designer in Singapore and how have they shaped your creative direction?
Like many small businesses in Singapore, the logistical challenges are real: high operating costs, manpower, rent. But perhaps a deeper challenge is the culture of fast fashion, where speed often overshadows soul. People forget what goes into a proper cut, the fit, the hand-finished detail. But I believe in the human touch—in slow, thoughtful craftsmanship. I've learnt to adapt while holding firm to my core: creating garments with heart, not haste. Ratianah's thoughtful pairing of textures and patterns echoes her ethos: garments made not with haste, but with heart. Courtesy of Kebaya by Ratianah
How does Singaporean culture shape your designs and how has your work evolved over the years?
Being born and raised in Singapore, this place lives in everything I do. My shop feels like a port—people come in with stories, traditions, memories. One customer once showed me a photo of her cat sleeping on a batik tulis she bought from us; now her cat lives forever in one of our designs. Moments like that remind me that the kebaya is alive—part of weddings, graduations, even everyday joys. I began with a humble booth and a simple dream, but today, I'm proud to see more young people embrace the kebaya. When someone says, 'When I think of the kebaya, I think of Ratianah', it's not just a compliment, it's a legacy.
What does 'home' mean to you and how does it influence your creative process?
Home is where the heartbeat steadies—a place where you feel safe to create, to dream, to be. For me, it's the source of everything. My work is inseparable from who I am. Each kebaya I make carries memories: the values I grew up with, the stories shared in my shop, the cultural traditions I want to keep alive. My designs begin from that place of rootedness and love, where creation becomes an extension of home. A sheer white kebaya adorned with intricate gold buttons down the front, styled with a navy printed wrap skirt—Ratianah's signature balance of delicate detailing and timeless silhouette. Courtesy of Kebaya by Ratianah
In what ways do you see your work contributing to Singapore's design heritage?
The kebaya is often seen as something from the past. I want to challenge that—to show that it can be worn with pride today, tomorrow, always. From whimsical prints to accessible silhouettes, I try to make the kebaya feel relevant without losing its grace. Whether paired with jeans or worn for a wedding, it's about keeping the tradition alive and evolving—stitching it into the present with intention and love.
'Legacy, to me, is a relationship between past and present, tradition and reinvention.'
Do you think about legacy when creating collections? How do you navigate heritage and modernity?
I don't think of legacy as just mine—it belongs to the women of the Nusantara. Icons like Saloma, Nona Asiah and Puan Noor Aishah shaped how we understand elegance and cultural pride. Today, I'm inspired by my customers and the strong women around me. They live and breathe life into kebaya culture. Legacy, to me, is a relationship between past and present, tradition and reinvention. I don't see heritage and modernity as opposites. They're just different chapters of the same story.
If your design ethos were a Singaporean dish, what would it be and why?
Kuih-muih. Not just one, but the whole colourful, nostalgic spread: beloved, soulful, diverse. I'd be talam berlauk : savoury, grounded, full of quiet depth. Like a handmade kuih , a lovingly crafted kebaya carries history and human touch. It's the difference between something that's mass-produced and something that's made with care, memory and heart. That's what I try to preserve—a taste of tradition, with a soul that lingers.
Vogue Singapore's July/August 'Home' issue is out on newsstands now and available to order online.
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Vogue Singapore
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A fashion legacy: How Ratianah is rewriting kebaya culture
Kebaya by Ratianah is a soft powerhouse in the local heritage scene, dedicated to preserving and evolving the traditional kebaya for modern wearers. Founded by Ratianah, the label blends slow craftsmanship with contemporary sensibility, making the kebaya accessible beyond ceremonial occasions. Drawing from Singapore's rich multicultural roots, her designs honour the past while embracing today's rhythms. Whether paired with jeans or worn at weddings, each piece carries intention and cultural memory. From a small start to becoming a touchstone for heritage lovers, Kebaya by Ratianah holds tradition close as it blooms into tomorrow. A white kebaya by Ratianah featuring a scalloped neckline and a vibrant print of red fish, blue lotus flowers, and green lily pads—where heritage meets whimsy in every stitch. Courtesy of Kebaya by Ratianah How did you start your journey into fashion. What sparked your entry and what continues to drive your work today? I've always had a need to create—to elevate the simple into something personal, something meaningful. Whether it was art or sewing, my instinct has always been: how can I make this more thoughtful? That curiosity led me to learn the basics of tailoring, which slowly grew into something deeper. The kebaya, especially, holds a sacred place in my heart. It's not just a garment, it's a cultural memory, a story that deserves to continue. I began my label with the hope of making pieces that reflected my identity, while also creating something others could see themselves in. My brand is rooted in both personal passion and a larger desire to honour and preserve heritage. What are the biggest challenges you've faced as a designer in Singapore and how have they shaped your creative direction? Like many small businesses in Singapore, the logistical challenges are real: high operating costs, manpower, rent. But perhaps a deeper challenge is the culture of fast fashion, where speed often overshadows soul. People forget what goes into a proper cut, the fit, the hand-finished detail. But I believe in the human touch—in slow, thoughtful craftsmanship. I've learnt to adapt while holding firm to my core: creating garments with heart, not haste. Ratianah's thoughtful pairing of textures and patterns echoes her ethos: garments made not with haste, but with heart. Courtesy of Kebaya by Ratianah How does Singaporean culture shape your designs and how has your work evolved over the years? Being born and raised in Singapore, this place lives in everything I do. My shop feels like a port—people come in with stories, traditions, memories. One customer once showed me a photo of her cat sleeping on a batik tulis she bought from us; now her cat lives forever in one of our designs. Moments like that remind me that the kebaya is alive—part of weddings, graduations, even everyday joys. I began with a humble booth and a simple dream, but today, I'm proud to see more young people embrace the kebaya. When someone says, 'When I think of the kebaya, I think of Ratianah', it's not just a compliment, it's a legacy. What does 'home' mean to you and how does it influence your creative process? Home is where the heartbeat steadies—a place where you feel safe to create, to dream, to be. For me, it's the source of everything. My work is inseparable from who I am. Each kebaya I make carries memories: the values I grew up with, the stories shared in my shop, the cultural traditions I want to keep alive. My designs begin from that place of rootedness and love, where creation becomes an extension of home. A sheer white kebaya adorned with intricate gold buttons down the front, styled with a navy printed wrap skirt—Ratianah's signature balance of delicate detailing and timeless silhouette. Courtesy of Kebaya by Ratianah In what ways do you see your work contributing to Singapore's design heritage? The kebaya is often seen as something from the past. I want to challenge that—to show that it can be worn with pride today, tomorrow, always. From whimsical prints to accessible silhouettes, I try to make the kebaya feel relevant without losing its grace. Whether paired with jeans or worn for a wedding, it's about keeping the tradition alive and evolving—stitching it into the present with intention and love. 'Legacy, to me, is a relationship between past and present, tradition and reinvention.' Do you think about legacy when creating collections? How do you navigate heritage and modernity? I don't think of legacy as just mine—it belongs to the women of the Nusantara. Icons like Saloma, Nona Asiah and Puan Noor Aishah shaped how we understand elegance and cultural pride. Today, I'm inspired by my customers and the strong women around me. They live and breathe life into kebaya culture. Legacy, to me, is a relationship between past and present, tradition and reinvention. I don't see heritage and modernity as opposites. They're just different chapters of the same story. If your design ethos were a Singaporean dish, what would it be and why? Kuih-muih. Not just one, but the whole colourful, nostalgic spread: beloved, soulful, diverse. I'd be talam berlauk : savoury, grounded, full of quiet depth. Like a handmade kuih , a lovingly crafted kebaya carries history and human touch. It's the difference between something that's mass-produced and something that's made with care, memory and heart. That's what I try to preserve—a taste of tradition, with a soul that lingers. Vogue Singapore's July/August 'Home' issue is out on newsstands now and available to order online.
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