This private chef served 9-course Malay fine dining from his HDB flat - and it blew me away, Lifestyle News

AsiaOne

3 days ago

I wanted to plan a fun date night for my partner, Iffah — something more than just another meal out. Having just returned from her recent hot girl summer solo trip in Europe, I had an inkling that she might be craving some good old Malay food.
Iffah loves curated, intimate fine dining experiences, and I had just the idea. I recently worked with Ilya, a private chef who runs Sudu by Ilya, a home-based dining concept that turns classic Malay dishes into modern, artful courses. The kicker? He does it all from his four-room HDB flat in Woodlands.
Ilya, 39, may have gotten some recognition from his appearance on MasterChef Singapore, but it was what he chose to do after the cameras stopped rolling that truly impressed me. He told me after dinner, "I started cooking seriously after being on MasterChef SG. But the real push came when Chef Gaggan Anand once listed out all the Singaporean cuisines but left out Malay food. That hit me hard."
His response? To create a space where Malay cuisine could shine in a new light — not as hawker staples, but as high-concept cuisine that celebrates heritage while reimagining it. And so Sudu was born. The ambience: classic, intimate, and unexpected
When we arrived at Ilya's flat, we were greeted with warm lighting, a carefully set dining table, and the gentle sound of a violin cover of "Getaran Jiwa" by P. Ramlee playing softly in the background. I was immediately transported into a different era. It felt like the 1960s, in the best way.
It's not just a dinner. It feels like you've stepped into someone's memory — a nostalgic reverence for tradition with modern, creative flair. This was no gimmick; this was theatre, story, and flavour, all playing out on a plate. The food: a 9-course tribute to Hari Raya
The current menu, Kunjung 2.0, pays homage to classic Hari Raya dishes with refined twists. It will only run till mid-July, so we were lucky to have snagged a booking.
Here are the standouts (with full respect to the entire menu) according to Iffah and me: Sambal Goreng (Course 5):
Smoky sambal lobster with tempeh chips. My personal favourite. It hits that nostalgic spicy-savoury note but feels indulgent and elegant.
Iffah: Perfect marks from me as well. This is my fav too! Sambal goreng is traditionally a fan favourite during Hari Raya and it's usually cooked with beef lungs. But it was the use of smoky sambal lobster here that elevated the dish to another level. Ayam Merah (Course 7):
Chicken mosaic wrapped and steamed in a lepat, paired with a smoked ayam merah emulsion. It looked like art and tasted like my grandmother's cooking — if my grandmother had studied French plating. Satay Kambing (Course 8):
Lamb loin with nasi tomato and a rich pine nut sauce. A beautiful take on satay that doesn't rely on skewers or the grill.
Iffah: Personally, this particular dish is not too much to my liking. Perhaps it's because I prefer the charred 'meaty' taste of satay being heavily soaked into peanut sauce. Kek Kukus & Tapai (Course 9):
Iffah: I like that Ilya mentioned most Malay establishments would leave out curating their desserts and that it would always be the usual array of overly sweet cakes, but this almond crumble and ice cream combo was brilliantly balanced by the steamed kukus.
Ilya explained, "This menu is inspired by what we eat during Hari Raya. You won't find fish here because we don't usually eat fish during Raya. It's these little details that make it meaningful."
Iffah: He also wanted to keep the dishes as authentic as possible; even for fine dining. During our conversation with Ilya, he mentioned that most modern dining establishments would present bread (with butter or olive oil) for appetisers, even for those that claim to be 'Malay' inspired.
But the reality is bread doesn't exist in most Malay dishes and we don't traditionally have a type of bread that is specific to our culture. It's in the little details and research that Ilya had done that stood out for us.
The creativity shines, but Ilya stays respectful to the root of every dish. "The principle at Sudu is to keep traditions while changing certain things," he said. "Sometimes it tastes like the traditional dish but looks different. Or looks familiar but tastes new."
There was also Roti Sardine with caviar, Kuih Bakar with kulim butter, and a home-brewed kombucha by Ilya's dad, which was the perfect palate cleanser. Elevating modern Malay cuisine to the realm of fine dining
Beyond the food, what really moved me was Ilya's conviction. Before Sudu, he was a food delivery rider. Opening a full-scale restaurant wasn't financially feasible, so he turned his home into a testbed for his vision.
"Within the Malay community, it's hard to accept Malay food becoming something else," Ilya shared. "There's not much demand from our own community to see it elevated. But I wanted to show that it could be done."
Iffah: But in retrospect, Ilya never really meant for this experience to be for the mass Malay community — and he's ok with it. When it comes to Malay food — the perception is that people want it to be tasty, affordable and perhaps familiar to what they've had for generations. And while there's nothing wrong with that, Ilya wants to show that there is an opportunity to elevate familiar Malay dishes — for those who are open to it.
And his guests seemed to agree. He recalled how one particular group loved the meal so much they came back three times, even when the menu was the same. Final thoughts: A night to remember
Dining at Sudu wasn't just a treat for my tastebuds; it was a journey — through culture, memory, and possibility. We left feeling full, not just from the food, but from the thought, story, and heart behind each dish.
It's not about changing cultural dishes — I for one still like my Hari Raya food the same way they've always been prepared.
Iffah: And it's also not about erasing the kind of food that defines our race; rather it's the opposite. It's about repurposing the same ingredients, the same flavours but refining it so that it can be put on the map for people outside of our community.
If you're someone who thinks fine dining means foie gras and truffle foam, Sudu will make you rethink everything. If you're Malay and have never seen your food served this way, it might even make you proud. I certainly was! Can't wait for what Ilya whips up next.
Sudu by Ilya is running its Kunjung 2.0 menu till mid-July. Book your seat while you still can. Address: 184A Woodlands Street 13, Singapore 731184.
[[nid:719981]]
This article was first published in Wonderwall.sg .