Polimoda director Massimiliano Giornetti says the new generation of designers shows greater resilience
Since February 2021, Massimiliano Giornetti has led Polimoda, the Florence-based fashion school where he once earned his degree in collaboration with the London College of Fashion. He returned to the school in 2019 as head of fashion design. Alongside his academic career, Giornetti built a distinguished track record in luxury fashion. He directed Salvatore Ferragamo 's creative vision for 16 years, first in menswear, then in womenswear and accessories. He also served as design director at the Chinese luxury house Shanghai Tang. Giornetti spoke with FashionNetwork.com about how young designers and their aspirations have evolved in recent years.
FashionNetwork.com: How has creativity evolved in recent years?
Massimiliano Giornetti: Creativity today is increasingly free and independent. The new generation of designers is moving away from the standardization that once dominated the industry. They are more drawn to niche concepts and independent thinking.
FNW: What explains this new approach?
MG: Young designers clearly reject overconsumption and the accelerated pace that has driven the fashion and luxury markets in recent years. Fashion now leans toward extreme luxury, and very few consumers can afford products from major brands. Our students align more closely with emerging consumer behaviors that favor slower consumption and a more mindful approach to spending. You can even see it in how they dress. They choose vintage and independent designs over logos. They increasingly question the constant turnover of creative directors at luxury houses, watching brands celebrate designers one season and dismiss them the next.
FNW: What do emerging designers want today?
MG: Emerging designers define success by their ability to express their point of view to their community, not by wealth. They show little interest in pursuing creative director roles compared to previous generations. Instead, they focus on building their own brands with unique content and a personal voice. They create independent projects that connect with smaller, more engaged communities that value their creative vision.
FNW: But in today's market, it is very difficult to stand out…
MG: The market is challenging, but young designers have a real opportunity. The desire to express oneself through clothing runs deep in human nature. Young consumers use fashion to convey both aesthetic and ethical values. They also buy less from major houses, as those brands operate in the ultra-luxury segment with increasingly prohibitive prices. This shift creates space for new generations of designers. They have a chance to stand out.
MG: Today's young designers bring incredible eclecticism and agility. They move seamlessly between two-dimensional and three-dimensional design. They approach their creative process in a highly hands-on way. This generation shows much greater resilience than mine and collaborates far more effectively than in the past.
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