What Copenhagen Fashion Week Taught Me About Getting Dressed

Refinery29

2 days ago

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Copenhagen Fashion Week opened with a dinner in the Nikolaj Art Gallery — a former church dating back to the 13th century. This season, it played host not only to the opening dinner but also to several shows, panels, and brand activations, including one from Instamax. That first night in the church set the tone for the week in more ways than one. The main course was pasta made from reclaimed bread — created using stale or leftover loaves — a nod to the council's commitment to sustainability, carrying a deeper symbol of the communal act of breaking bread. That sense of togetherness continued through the shows and the showgoers, who brought an energy that was impossible to miss.
Each show drew its own eager crowd. At Sunflower, held in the courtyard of their offices, a burned-out car sat on a square platform that models weaved around. Outside, the crowd pressed in so tightly it was nearly impossible to see the clothes — which, in theory, defeats the purpose of a fashion show. But here, the draw was as much about soaking in the atmosphere as it was about spotting a fetching fireman jacket or sharply tailored, strong-shoulder suit. At Marimekko, which was staged outdoors with only a thin rope marking the perimeter, the crowd was equally lively — phones out, and ready to catch every moment.
Copenhagen as a fashion week can feel like the odd child out. It lands about four weeks before the marathon that is Fashion Month, which kicks off on September 11 with NYFW — a little too early to define overarching themes. A few emerged, though whether they carry through to the rest of the season remains to be seen.
For me, the word trend doesn't quite sum up the week. Yes, there were recurring details — like the shoe of the summer, flip-flops — spotted at CMMN SWDN, Deadwood, and most notably Opera Sport, which sent out not only regular Havaianas but also 3D-printed versions that looked like they had been plucked from another dimension.
More broadly, the week felt defined by brands leaning into what they do best. Cecilie Bahnsen celebrated her 10-year anniversary with a show in an airplane hangar, where models drifted down the runway in white, cloudlike dresses as if they, too, were about to take flight. Nicklas Skovgaard continued his run of editorial, '80s-tinged silhouettes that struck the perfect balance between theatrical and wearable. These were pieces you wanted to own — not because they aligned with a trend, but because they looked irresistibly cool. Think an airy, voluminous Cecilie Bahnsen number, a lipstick-red Skall coat, or Sunflower's fireman jacket.
Again, overarching trends weren't exactly easy to pinpoint. Though a few major themes felt substantial and may gain momentum as we move through the rest of Fashion Month. Among the standouts: Pajamas styled for day, chemise-inspired dresses that go far beyond countryside frolics, and perhaps most exciting, a modern reimagining of '80s elements that felt decidedly innovative.
But the shoppable moments weren't confined to the runway. Outside the shows, the street style was just as much a feast for the eyes. Much has been written about the Scandi girl aesthetic and women's ability to look both laid-back and effervescent, which Copenhagen proved yet again. Styling touches like a pop of orange to brighten a look or unexpected finishes, like with a skull cap, felt instantly appealing and attainable.
From the runway to the streets, I left the week feeling inspired — and admittedly, with a case of the shoppies. Ahead, my breakdown of the top fashion takeaways, along with an edit worth adding to your cart to channel the best of Copenhagen.
On The Runway & Streets: Flip-flops
The shoe of the summer isn't going anywhere. On the runway, flip flops brought ease to elevated looks. On the streets, they lent a nonchalance to showgoers' outfits — your most effortless finish with slip dresses, linen pants, and beyond.
On the Streets: Skull Caps
What balaclavas and bonnets were to winter, skull caps are to spring and summer. This compact accessory made a major impact, appearing daily at CPHFW and giving looks a distinctive finishing touch.
On the Runways: Pastoral dresses
Designers leaned into loose, chemise-style dresses that evoked a European countryside sensibility (cue the daydream of wandering through a field of lilacs). Less TikTok milkmaid, more vintage cotton nightgown you'd stumble upon in a vintage shop. Delicate, nostalgic, and surprisingly wearable.
On the Runways: Cotton Poplin PJs
Designers gave pajama sets daytime credibility by pairing them with bomber jackets and structured outerwear for a street-ready edge. The key to pulling it off? Embracing the art of the matching set or coordinating cotton poplins, then finishing with sporty trainers or sleek loafers to ground the vibe and keep it from feeling too precious.
On the Runways: 80s-Influenced Designs
The '70s boho influence is giving way to the excesses of the '80s. Bold, sometimes clashing prints, electric colors, and sculptural shoulder pads all appeared on the runways — reworked into fresh, wearable takes that made the decade's more over-the-top elements feel exciting again.
On the Streets: Polka Dots
The playful pattern that resurfaces season after season made its way onto the streets of Copenhagen, where showgoers embraced it for an added dose of flair. From statement dresses to playful accessories, polka dots proved they're still a favorite for anyone looking to punch up an outfit.
On the Runways: Fireman Jacket
At first glance, this outerwear shape recalls barn-style jackets we've seen in recent seasons. But it's the signature metal clasp closures that give the fireman jacket its distinctive, namesake appeal. Prepare for plenty of iterations to start popping up in new arrivals sections.
On the Street: Pops of Orange
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For a few seasons, pops of red have been the go-to accent for injecting drama into an outfit. This time, orange took center stage. Whether as a small detail — like a shoe to brighten a neutral look — or a blouse to invigoirate an entire ensemble, this color trend added energy and vibrance to the week's street style.