I went on a Nile River cruise — here's what nobody tells you

Metro

2 days ago

Drifting 1,500ft above Luxor's lunar-like streets, I knew this hot air balloon ride was an experience that would be hard to beat.
It was calming to look down on the Valley of the Queens and the Temple of Rameses III without the hum of a plane's engine in my ears, the tranquility interrupted only by the roar of flames as our pilot Mahmoud adjusted our height.
This was my final excursion before flying home after a week-long trip down the River Nile, a trip that felt decades in the making thanks to my lifelong obsession with ancient Egypt.
The downside to this dream, however, was that I would be staying on a ship.
Before this, the most sailing I had ever done was crossing the English Channel on a school trip to France.
I feared relentless motion sickness, being forced to take part in cringeworthy entertainment, feeling alienated as the youngest person for miles, and worst of all, being stuck with terrible vegetarian options.
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But it only took a few hours on TUI's new five-star Al Horeya to realise my fears had been unfounded. Dare I say, I might even be a cruise convert.
The Al Horeya, meaning freedom, is the latest offering from TUI River Cruises.
Sailing for the first time in late 2024, it's designed for Brits who want to take the guesswork out of exploring the Nile and its historic sites. Flights and excursions are included.
The first part of the Legends of the Nile itinerary that took me by surprise was that it didn't involve much sailing.
In total, the ship sails for around 74 miles (120km), from the historic city of Luxor to ancient Aswan, with stops at Edfu and Kom Ombo before returning to Luxor again.
We spent most nights docked, and although the two overnight voyages could be noisy, from the engine hum to the clacking sound of passing through the Esna Lock, I didn't lose much sleep after getting settled into my cabin.
Gone were my fears of being shut up in a dark room with a porthole for a window. Instead, I stayed in a compact but comfortable third-deck cabin with a French balcony.
While it was a case of luck whether the doors opened onto the river or the dock, more often than not, I was able to sit and watch the sun rise over the water while applying sunscreen for the day ahead.
The ensuite bathroom, while a bit of a tight squeeze, had a shower with the option of a rainfall head — a great way to unwind after a day of exploring.
As an ancient Egypt obsessive, I didn't want to spend my trip on sun loungers, but there are plenty of people who aren't as fanatical about Khonsu and Hathor as I am.
Each Al Horeya sailing includes two excursions – the Temple of Horus at Edfu, and the Kom Ombo Temple – and they're both worth going to.
The Temple of Horus is incredibly well preserved, offering a snapshot of how it would have looked thousands of years ago, while the Kom Ombo visit after nightfall had a fantastic atmosphere. Hardly anyone was there, which made for great pictures.
If your priority is winter sun, it's easy to leave the excursions at that and spend the rest of your trip on the sun deck, basking in 20-25°C sun under cloudless blue skies and enjoying the all-inclusive drinks.
But if you want to see more wonders of the ancient world, booking some additional excursions is well worth the money.
Each excursion was fascinating and gave us a digestible snapshot of thousands of years of Egyptian history.
Some excursions include visiting religious sites and it's recommended women cover their shoulders and midriffs. If you're a woman with visible tattoos you will receive stares and comments. There will be locals at temples offering to take pictures or teach you about an aspect of history. They will expect a tip. Entering and exiting attractions often involves running the gauntlet of pushy vendors trying to sell souvenirs. Eye contact is seen as provocative, so look straight ahead and politely shake your head or say no. You will often have to pay to use the toilets during excursions, and they're not always in best condition, so take tissues and hand sanitiser. It can be hard to get hold of Egyptian Pounds in the UK, but lots of places accept US Dollars or take card payments.
On our first full day, we went to the Valley of the Kings and saw the mummy of Tutankhamen in his vacuum-sealed box. It was a real pinch yourself moment, realising this boy – as he was only 19 when he died – has laid in this tomb for more than 3,300 years.
At Abydos Temple we saw the only known carving of Queen Cleopatra, one of Egypt's best-known historical figures.
There was no trace of her reputation as a femme fatale; instead she shook a set of maracas for Hathor, the goddess of music, love, and beauty.
And in Kom Ombo we saw dozens of mummified crocodiles, which had been incredibly well looked after in life as part of the priests' worship of Sobek, the crocodile god.
Breakfast, lunch and dinner are a mix of traditional Egyptian and Mediterranean dishes alongside classic British fare.
I loved ordering a made-to-order cheese omelette at breakfast, watching the chef cook it and taking notes on his technique.
Combined with lightly-spiced Egyptian fava beans, herb-roasted potatoes and cheesy courgette toast, I always had plenty of energy for the day ahead.
Lunches usually featured whole fish or grilled meats, flavourful rice and side dishes including vegetable tagine – rich tomato-based stews – or baba ganoush , an aubergine-based dip served with herby flatbreads.
Felucca, the top-deck restaurant that seats 30 per night, served a five-course menu that gave us a true taste of Egypt, from richly spiced lentil soup to a baked pastry-based dessert not dissimilar from bread and butter pudding.
Despite spending most of my downtime on the ship, it was easy to feel immersed in Egypt's culture and history during the cruise.
Having two qualified Egyptologists on board at all times meant we could ask questions about all facets of life, from Cleopatra's reign to modern Egyptian politics.
The British have been fascinated by Egypt for centuries, so much so that explorers brought relics and mummies back with them to live in our museums.
Katy Berzins, head of TUI River Cruises, told me why she thinks our interest in Egyptology has stood the test of time.
'When it comes to Egyptology and ancient Egypt, human interest piques due to the curiosity of centuries of mystery, grandeur and cultural significance the country has preserved,' she said.
'We have curated a range of excursions that allows customers to experience the temples that hold centuries of stories, such as Abu Simbel Temples and Valley of the Kings with ease.
'For the more cultural experiences, we have immersive excursions that allows customers to discover new and exciting pieces of Egypt such as the Nubian Village Tour.
'With the richness of history and culture which is so different to the UK, the awe of Egypt alone has made it last the test of time of being a country which has so much to offer.'
I left Egypt feeling awestruck and extremely lucky, but also like I could go back next week.
With so much to see, do, and learn, there are so many possibilities to truly immerse yourself in Egypt's intriguing history. More Trending
And if I am ever lucky enough to visit Egypt again, I'm certain I'll set sail on a Nile river cruise again.
The Al Horeya launched and set sail on its maiden voyage in November 2024 – the first ship TUI has launched outside of Europe for its river cruise options.
The ship accommodates 141 passengers and offers 72 cabins including singles, standard cabins and suites. The ship is adults-only.
The top deck is home to a plunge pool and two hot tubs by day, and by night the al fresco dining space, Felucca, comes to life. There's also a bar on the top deck serving drinks around the clock.
On the third deck is the Observatory, the lounge bar where evening entertainment is hosted. On-board entertainers perform live music, but the ship also has visits from traditional Nubian and whirling dervishes acts.
Plus, there are two qualified Egyptologists on board throughout the sailing, to guide you through excursions and host talks.
The lower deck is home to Lazeeza, the main restaurant and dining room open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Breakfast and lunch are buffets with some items, such as omelettes, made to order. During dinner, starters and desserts are self-serve but main courses are ordered via table service. Valley of the Kings, Hatshepsut Temple and Nile boat trip – from £94
Karnak and Luxor Temples and Sphinx Avenue – from £56
Experience Luxor by hot air balloon – from £89
Temple of Horus guided tour – free for all passengers
Kom Ombo temple tour – free for all passengers
Tour of the High Dam, Unfinished Obelisk and Philae Temple – from £74
Nubian village tour and boat trip in Aswan – from £29
Tour of the temples of Dendera and Abydos – from £115
Other excursions are available. Private tours can also be booked at a higher price. To book excursions for your river cruise, click here.
Katie Boyden was a guest on a seven-night Legends of the Nile sailing on the TUI River Cruises new ship, Al Horeya.
A seven-night cruise starts from £1,799 per person, including flights between London Gatwick or Manchester Airport into Luxor. Food and drink is all-inclusive except between midnight and 8am, when charges apply. TUI Al Horeya sails between November and April each year.
This article was originally published on 23 February 2025 and has been updated.
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