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Metro
11-08-2025
- Metro
I went on a Nile River cruise — here's what nobody tells you
Drifting 1,500ft above Luxor's lunar-like streets, I knew this hot air balloon ride was an experience that would be hard to beat. It was calming to look down on the Valley of the Queens and the Temple of Rameses III without the hum of a plane's engine in my ears, the tranquility interrupted only by the roar of flames as our pilot Mahmoud adjusted our height. This was my final excursion before flying home after a week-long trip down the River Nile, a trip that felt decades in the making thanks to my lifelong obsession with ancient Egypt. The downside to this dream, however, was that I would be staying on a ship. Before this, the most sailing I had ever done was crossing the English Channel on a school trip to France. I feared relentless motion sickness, being forced to take part in cringeworthy entertainment, feeling alienated as the youngest person for miles, and worst of all, being stuck with terrible vegetarian options. Fuel your wanderlust with our curated newsletter of travel deals, guides and inspiration. Sign up here. But it only took a few hours on TUI's new five-star Al Horeya to realise my fears had been unfounded. Dare I say, I might even be a cruise convert. The Al Horeya, meaning freedom, is the latest offering from TUI River Cruises. Sailing for the first time in late 2024, it's designed for Brits who want to take the guesswork out of exploring the Nile and its historic sites. Flights and excursions are included. The first part of the Legends of the Nile itinerary that took me by surprise was that it didn't involve much sailing. In total, the ship sails for around 74 miles (120km), from the historic city of Luxor to ancient Aswan, with stops at Edfu and Kom Ombo before returning to Luxor again. We spent most nights docked, and although the two overnight voyages could be noisy, from the engine hum to the clacking sound of passing through the Esna Lock, I didn't lose much sleep after getting settled into my cabin. Gone were my fears of being shut up in a dark room with a porthole for a window. Instead, I stayed in a compact but comfortable third-deck cabin with a French balcony. While it was a case of luck whether the doors opened onto the river or the dock, more often than not, I was able to sit and watch the sun rise over the water while applying sunscreen for the day ahead. The ensuite bathroom, while a bit of a tight squeeze, had a shower with the option of a rainfall head — a great way to unwind after a day of exploring. As an ancient Egypt obsessive, I didn't want to spend my trip on sun loungers, but there are plenty of people who aren't as fanatical about Khonsu and Hathor as I am. Each Al Horeya sailing includes two excursions – the Temple of Horus at Edfu, and the Kom Ombo Temple – and they're both worth going to. The Temple of Horus is incredibly well preserved, offering a snapshot of how it would have looked thousands of years ago, while the Kom Ombo visit after nightfall had a fantastic atmosphere. Hardly anyone was there, which made for great pictures. If your priority is winter sun, it's easy to leave the excursions at that and spend the rest of your trip on the sun deck, basking in 20-25°C sun under cloudless blue skies and enjoying the all-inclusive drinks. But if you want to see more wonders of the ancient world, booking some additional excursions is well worth the money. Each excursion was fascinating and gave us a digestible snapshot of thousands of years of Egyptian history. Some excursions include visiting religious sites and it's recommended women cover their shoulders and midriffs. If you're a woman with visible tattoos you will receive stares and comments. There will be locals at temples offering to take pictures or teach you about an aspect of history. They will expect a tip. Entering and exiting attractions often involves running the gauntlet of pushy vendors trying to sell souvenirs. Eye contact is seen as provocative, so look straight ahead and politely shake your head or say no. You will often have to pay to use the toilets during excursions, and they're not always in best condition, so take tissues and hand sanitiser. It can be hard to get hold of Egyptian Pounds in the UK, but lots of places accept US Dollars or take card payments. On our first full day, we went to the Valley of the Kings and saw the mummy of Tutankhamen in his vacuum-sealed box. It was a real pinch yourself moment, realising this boy – as he was only 19 when he died – has laid in this tomb for more than 3,300 years. At Abydos Temple we saw the only known carving of Queen Cleopatra, one of Egypt's best-known historical figures. There was no trace of her reputation as a femme fatale; instead she shook a set of maracas for Hathor, the goddess of music, love, and beauty. And in Kom Ombo we saw dozens of mummified crocodiles, which had been incredibly well looked after in life as part of the priests' worship of Sobek, the crocodile god. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are a mix of traditional Egyptian and Mediterranean dishes alongside classic British fare. I loved ordering a made-to-order cheese omelette at breakfast, watching the chef cook it and taking notes on his technique. Combined with lightly-spiced Egyptian fava beans, herb-roasted potatoes and cheesy courgette toast, I always had plenty of energy for the day ahead. Lunches usually featured whole fish or grilled meats, flavourful rice and side dishes including vegetable tagine – rich tomato-based stews – or baba ganoush , an aubergine-based dip served with herby flatbreads. Felucca, the top-deck restaurant that seats 30 per night, served a five-course menu that gave us a true taste of Egypt, from richly spiced lentil soup to a baked pastry-based dessert not dissimilar from bread and butter pudding. Despite spending most of my downtime on the ship, it was easy to feel immersed in Egypt's culture and history during the cruise. Having two qualified Egyptologists on board at all times meant we could ask questions about all facets of life, from Cleopatra's reign to modern Egyptian politics. The British have been fascinated by Egypt for centuries, so much so that explorers brought relics and mummies back with them to live in our museums. Katy Berzins, head of TUI River Cruises, told me why she thinks our interest in Egyptology has stood the test of time. 'When it comes to Egyptology and ancient Egypt, human interest piques due to the curiosity of centuries of mystery, grandeur and cultural significance the country has preserved,' she said. 'We have curated a range of excursions that allows customers to experience the temples that hold centuries of stories, such as Abu Simbel Temples and Valley of the Kings with ease. 'For the more cultural experiences, we have immersive excursions that allows customers to discover new and exciting pieces of Egypt such as the Nubian Village Tour. 'With the richness of history and culture which is so different to the UK, the awe of Egypt alone has made it last the test of time of being a country which has so much to offer.' I left Egypt feeling awestruck and extremely lucky, but also like I could go back next week. With so much to see, do, and learn, there are so many possibilities to truly immerse yourself in Egypt's intriguing history. More Trending And if I am ever lucky enough to visit Egypt again, I'm certain I'll set sail on a Nile river cruise again. The Al Horeya launched and set sail on its maiden voyage in November 2024 – the first ship TUI has launched outside of Europe for its river cruise options. The ship accommodates 141 passengers and offers 72 cabins including singles, standard cabins and suites. The ship is adults-only. The top deck is home to a plunge pool and two hot tubs by day, and by night the al fresco dining space, Felucca, comes to life. There's also a bar on the top deck serving drinks around the clock. On the third deck is the Observatory, the lounge bar where evening entertainment is hosted. On-board entertainers perform live music, but the ship also has visits from traditional Nubian and whirling dervishes acts. Plus, there are two qualified Egyptologists on board throughout the sailing, to guide you through excursions and host talks. The lower deck is home to Lazeeza, the main restaurant and dining room open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Breakfast and lunch are buffets with some items, such as omelettes, made to order. During dinner, starters and desserts are self-serve but main courses are ordered via table service. Valley of the Kings, Hatshepsut Temple and Nile boat trip – from £94 Karnak and Luxor Temples and Sphinx Avenue – from £56 Experience Luxor by hot air balloon – from £89 Temple of Horus guided tour – free for all passengers Kom Ombo temple tour – free for all passengers Tour of the High Dam, Unfinished Obelisk and Philae Temple – from £74 Nubian village tour and boat trip in Aswan – from £29 Tour of the temples of Dendera and Abydos – from £115 Other excursions are available. Private tours can also be booked at a higher price. To book excursions for your river cruise, click here. Katie Boyden was a guest on a seven-night Legends of the Nile sailing on the TUI River Cruises new ship, Al Horeya. A seven-night cruise starts from £1,799 per person, including flights between London Gatwick or Manchester Airport into Luxor. Food and drink is all-inclusive except between midnight and 8am, when charges apply. TUI Al Horeya sails between November and April each year. This article was originally published on 23 February 2025 and has been updated. MORE: My week in the world's most welcoming city where immigrants are 'newcomers' MORE: Forget the Great Barrier — I had the swim of a lifetime at Australia's lesser known reef MORE: I took my family on a digital detox holiday and something extraordinary happened
The Independent
17-02-2025
- The Independent
A new cruise has opened up a whole new way to explore Egypt's ancient mysteries
I am floating peacefully high above the bustle of Luxor's dusty streets, only the occasional burst from the burner of the hot air balloon breaking the silence. Our pilot, captain Mahmoud, gently turns us around so we get an unbeatable God's eye view reaching from the lush green corridor of the Nile to the rocky hills where the world famous Valley of the Kings is tucked away. I turn around to face the magical spectacle of a dozen balloons silhouetted against the golden orange of the sun, shimmering as it too rises up from the horizon. As Mahmoud lowers the balloon back to Earth, the support crew scramble into action, holding on to the basket to ensure a gentle touchdown before calling to each other as they grab the fabric as it deflates, making sure it does not get damaged on the rocky desert ground. The captain tells me: 'Look at us Egyptians at work, this is how the pyramids were made.' My aerial adventure is one of several land-based activities available on a new cruise down Egypt 's main aquatic artery, the Nile. For the first time, tour operator Tui has expanded its river cruise offerings outside of Europe with its five-star all-inclusive Al Horeya (meaning freedom), which has 72 cabins, a rooftop swimming pool and two hot tubs. A second ship will join the operation in November 2025. Ahead of our voyage, I have time to explore Luxor. Having glimpsed the Valley of the Kings from 1,500ft high, I later visit with a sense of bewilderment that these secret wonders hidden deep in the hills were ever uncovered. I approach a black hole in the rock and my eyes take a moment to adjust from the glaring sun to the muted light of the tunnel that burrows down to the underground tomb of Ramses VI. The lines of finely crafted images depicting the life of the God-king lead my eye down the corridor, my skin bristling with the sense of excitement the original excavators must have experienced as they discovered these time capsules from ancient history. As I explore some of the tunnels of the 62 pharaohs buried in the valley, the fantastical images from jackal-headed gods to the ankh symbol of life strike me as out of this world, as alien as if they had been painted on the walls by visitors in flying saucers. Saving the tomb of Tutankhamen to last, I enter the short tunnel to the burial chamber where the boy king was placed when he died at just 19 years old in 1,323BC having reigned for only 10 years. His early death led to him being buried in a spare chamber which was discovered by accident by the English Egyptologist Howard Carter in November 1922, as he was excavating the tomb of Ramses VI which lies directly above. Although the thousands of items found in the tomb, including Tutankhamen's magnificent golden death mask, are waiting to be rehoused in a newly-opened $1 billion museum, his mummified body remains in the tomb inside a glass case. Far from feeling I have suffered King Tut's curse by entering his tomb, I feel blessed to have the opportunity to have a glimpse of his face, frozen in time, as it looks out on his chamber decorated in a warm orange with wall paintings depicting his arrival in the underworld which, amazingly, have barely faded. Luckily my guide, Sarwat, one of two Egyptologists travelling with us, had advised an early 6am start to avoid the crowds, allowing us to enjoy the tomb and its images almost completely alone. Sarwat explains to me that the artists used stone powder and vegetable paste mixed with egg white to create a plaster-layer to preserve the drawings. He adds: 'They were telling the story of the kings for the gods to read, so their stories would last for all eternity.' I return to the Nile and climb on board a felucca sailboat similar to those used by traders for thousands of years for a sedate crossing back to the Al Horeya for a lunch of delicious chicken and hot sauce wraps at the appropriately-named Felucca rooftop restaurant. The next morning it is the turn of the temples of Karnak and Luxor to confound me with their scale and grandiosity. Entering the main hall, I am dwarfed by the 134 columns that form the centrepiece of Karnak and are so memorable from The Spy Who Loved Me as Roger Moore's Bond battles Jaws before making the rather unfair quip: 'Egyptian builders' as some scaffolding collapses. But Karnak is somewhere where the ancient architects have left a clue to their engineering genius as huge mud brick ramps remain next to the unfinished outer walls, showing how the huge stones were originally put in place. The temple is linked to its Luxor counterpart by the 5,000-year-old Avenue of the Sphinxes, which is lined by hundreds of human and ram-headed sphinxes and was used for a festival procession of the gods carried on their boats by the high priests celebrating the sun god, Amun-Re. The main entrance at Luxor was created by Ramses II whose domineering statue overlooks the site. It is a short hop back on the boat moored alongside the temple and time for our departure on our journey up the Nile. I sit under the shade of the ship's top deck bar, a gentle breeze from the river acting as natural air conditioning, watching as the city landscape gives way to the green farmlands that the river creates all the way down this desert country. The relaxed pace of life onboard means that I am fully refreshed in the morning, ready to experience the most complete temple in Egypt. The final stop is Aswan where we visit the famous dam, which is Egypt's modern marvel of engineering, as well as a Nubian village to gain an insight into how people have lived in country's south for generations. Sitting with a drink in hand, watching a farmer at the green riverside with sandy mountains looming behind, I get a renewed sense of the importance of this life-giving river to all the inhabitants of this country, from the ordinary worker to the iconic gods of ancient myth. As the ancient Greek historian Herodotus said: 'Egypt is the gift of the Nile' and my journey on the Tui Al Horeya has been the perfect way to unwrap it. How to plan your trip TUI ( offers a seven-night Legends of the Nile cruise on Al Horeya from £1,799 per person (two sharing) on an all-inclusive basis, including tips. Transfers and flights from London Gatwick or Manchester to Luxor, Egypt, on April 17, 2025.
