John Dory Seafood Market review: Five dishes to try at Belarusian brand's first Dubai outpost

The National

2 days ago

Tucked into one of the deeper nooks of Dubai Festival City Mall's The Market Island, a modern food hall with communal seating, this Belarusian seafood brand is making its first international foray after more than a decade of service in Minsk.
You can tell straight away this is one of the more ambitious offerings in any UAE shopping mall food hall. It's sprawling and it looks great. There's an open kitchen, a raw bar serving oysters, and a sit-down space with a mix of couple and group seating all tied together in a light, well-paced layout.
The kitchen snakes through the restaurant, with the counter finished in soft green and engraved with fish, a quiet design detail that runs throughout.
Focused on serving seafood nose to tail but relaxed in its execution, John Dory Seafood Market delivers some of the best fish you'll find in any mall outlet. It is family-friendly and does what a good mall restaurant should: make you forget you're in a mall.
Here are five dishes to try.
Oysters (various prices)
No oysters taste the same, and that's the point of John Dory's offerings.
While sold individually, a recommended idea is to curate your own set and explore the differences in brine, texture and depth. The selection is thoughtful with oysters sourced from France to Fujairah.
Served on ice, each has a distinct character. The Gillardeau No 2 (Dh45) offers a meaty depth, while the Dibba Bay No 3 (Dh18), the most local of the lot, is crisp, saline and fresh. The Speciale Krystale No 2 (Dh32) is buttery and rich while the Fine de Claire Geay No 2 (Dh13) is clean and delicate, and best saved for the end depending on how you sequence your tray.
Other options include the Fines de Normandie No 3 (Dh10), Speciale Poget No 3 (Dh37) and Speciale Belle-Ile No 3 (Dh25).
At Dh180 for all seven, it's best shared with friends.
Seychellois yellowfin tuna tiradito (Dh60)
Bright, tart and dressed for the occasion.
This is a raw dish that's all about balance and texture. Thinly-sliced tuna is expertly laid over a tangy tomato ponzu, garnished with crisp potato straws and a drizzle of Japanese mayo blended with kimchi.
The acidity is sharp enough to cut the fat, while the crunch of the straws adds contrast. It reminded me a little of more upmarket crevice. It's beautiful to look at and wonderfully refreshing.
Carabineros prawns (Dh300)
This is the most indulgent item on the menu, and it announces itself with a bold, no-frills presentation. If you need a reminder that John Dory is, at its core, a seafood fishmonger restaurant, then this is it.
Large, vivid red prawns arrive lightly grilled and drizzled with lime. It is all about freshness here. The flesh is sweet and tender. But the real treat, and this is not for the faint-hearted, is the head. That is where you will find the rich umami with all its flavour and fat.
Yes, it is pricey but for seafood connoisseurs but this is a treat you owe yourself.
Octopus hotdog (Dh75)
Now, this is a case where looks can deceive. It looks like a roll with a big piece of octopus in the middle. But once you bite into it, you're caught off guard in a good way.
While the tentacle is fresh, smoky and soft, the sauce is the real standout. A base layer of Japanese mayo and kimchi sits underneath the tentacle, while a layer of melted cheese ties it all together.
The sauce is spicy enough and coats everything just right. It is one of the most surprising dishes on the menu. Bold and satisfying and Dubai exclusive, this treat could be the UAE outpost's calling card.
Dry-aged tuna fillet (Dh65)
Years of eating canned tuna as a student meant I rarely gave the fish much thought, so I approached this dish with some hesitation.
This version is more considered. White yellowfin tuna from the Seychelles is aged in-house for 10 to 14 days, then lightly seared and sliced into neat, delicate strips. The ageing gives it a firmer, meatier texture, somewhere between sashimi and a lean steak.
The minimal seasoning allows the concentrated flavour to come through. It is slightly nutty, with a gentle umami depth that lingers. While it may not convert the sceptical, it shows how tuna can be reimagined in an elegant way.
Save or splurge
Dishes range from Dh40 to Dh300, with plenty on offer for diners of different appetites and varying passion for crustaceans. The value holds up, especially when you consider the sourcing and technique involved.
Between the fish counter, raw bar and dining space, John Dory Seafood Market shows what a premium food hall can be. It proves that accessible, well-executed, even polished dining can exist in a mall without losing integrity.
For those wanting to take some of that experience home, the adjacent seafood store sells pre-marinated fillets and ready-to-bake meals.
John Dory Seafood Market at Dubai Festival City Mall is open daily from 12pm to 11pm. Reservations can be made by calling 052 240 3898.