Where stone chariot races the sun

Deccan Herald

4 days ago

If you ever travel to Odisha on India's eastern coast, you might hear whispers about a mysterious temple that looks like a giant stone chariot, frozen in time as if it was about to roll towards the sea. That's the Sun Temple of Konark, one of the most fascinating buildings in India, and a place that has amazed travellers, artists, and scientists for hundreds of years.
The Konark Sun Temple stands just a few kilometres from the Bay of Bengal. As you get closer, you might spot giant wheels, each one taller than you, carved with incredible patterns and shapes. The whole temple is built to look like the chariot of Surya, the Sun God, being pulled by seven magnificent stone horses. It's made entirely out of black granite and khondalite rock, and was built more than 750 years ago, during the rule of King Narasimhadeva I of the Eastern Ganga dynasty in the thirteenth century.
Legend has it that the king wanted to build the most spectacular temple dedicated to Surya, the god who brings warmth, light and life. According to old tales, thousands of artists, sculptors, and workers worked for years to shape and carve every detail. Some stories say it took twelve years to finish. Imagine what it must have been like—a busy construction site full of hammers, chisels, laughter, and music, with the salty sea breeze blowing in.
What really makes Konark different from any other temple is its design. It's not just a place to pray; it's a gigantic sundial and a riddle in stone. The temple's wheels aren't just for show—they actually work like clocks. If you look closely, you'll notice the spokes of each wheel are carefully shaped so that, if you know the trick, you can tell the time just by watching where the sun casts its shadow. There are 24 wheels, which some people say stand for the hours in a day, and each wheel has eight spokes, like the eight 'praharas' or divisions of time in an Indian day. For hundreds of years, travellers and pilgrims have been amazed by this combination of science and art, where the temple itself helps people measure time.
The Sun Temple is decorated with thousands of carvings, big and small. Look closely and you'll find elephants, lions, horses, dancers, musicians, birds, and flowers—all carved in lifelike detail. Many of the figures tell stories from everyday life or from ancient legends, while others show how people celebrated the sun with music, dance, and festivals. Some carvings are so tiny that you need to kneel down and squint to see all the hidden details, while others are so grand you'll want to take a dozen photos.
For centuries, Konark was a place where artists and thinkers gathered, especially during the early morning, when the first sunlight would hit the temple's main entrance. The main shrine, which once held a massive statue of Surya, is now in ruins, but you can still sense the awe that people must have felt when sunlight filled the temple. Sadly, parts of the temple have collapsed over time, mainly because of the salty sea air, heavy monsoon rains, and even attacks by invaders. Still, what remains is enough to fill visitors with wonder.
One of the most fascinating mysteries about Konark is how such a huge and heavy temple was built with no cranes or modern machines. Some experts think the builders used clever ramps, pulleys, and lots of teamwork. According to legend, a huge iron rod was used to hold the top stone together, and the temple was decorated with a magical lodestone, a natural magnet that was supposed to make ships' compasses go haywire. While there's no proof of the lodestone today, these stories add to Konark's magical reputation.
People from all over the world come to Konark, not just to see the temple but to be part of its festivals. Every December, the Konark Dance Festival brings together India's best classical dancers, who perform on a stage with the temple as their backdrop, just as dancers did centuries ago. As night falls and the music begins, you can almost imagine the temple coming back to life, with shadows dancing across its ancient stones.
Konark isn't just a UNESCO World Heritage Site; it's a symbol of Indian creativity, scientific thinking, and the power of imagination. It's been called the 'Black Pagoda' by sailors who saw its dark stones from their ships. It's also a puzzle waiting to be solved, with historians and scientists still trying to unlock its secrets. Some say there are hidden passages or treasures, while others are simply amazed by how carefully the entire structure is aligned with the east, so that the first light of the day touches the feet of the Sun God.
If you ever get to visit Konark, try to wake up early and see the sunrise over the temple's wheels and horses. It's the perfect way to understand why, even after so many centuries, Konark still inspires awe.
Temple is shaped like a giant chariot
Konark's Sun Temple was built to look like Surya's chariot from Hindu mythology, complete with 24 massive wheels and seven stone horses.
Works like a sundial
The wheels aren't just for decoration—they're actually ancient timekeepers! You can tell the time by watching the shadows cast by the spokes.
Konark once had a huge magnet
Legend says the temple once had a giant lodestone (a natural magnet) at its centre, which was so powerful it could disrupt ships' compasses at sea.
Temple faced the rising sun
The main entrance was built so that the first rays of the sun would light up the idol of Surya inside the temple each morning.
It's called the 'Black Pagoda'
Sailors on the Bay of Bengal called Konark the 'Black Pagoda' because of its dark stones, which helped them navigate the coast.
Many parts are now in ruins
The main sanctum collapsed long ago, but much of the temple's beauty remains, attracting visitors and researchers from around the world.
ISTOCK
It's a UNESCO World Heritage Site
Konark Sun Temple is one of India's most famous UNESCO World Heritage Sites, recognised for its amazing architecture and history.
ISTOCK
Famous dance festival
Every year, classical dancers from all over India perform at the Konark Dance Festival, with the temple as a stunning backdrop.