Valencia offers the perfect mix for a city break to remember

Irish Daily Mirror

4 days ago

If the Big Apple is the city that never sleeps, then the Big Orange - Valencia - is the city that's ever-sleek.
Spain's third-largest city has proved itself a master of reinvention over the years, yet for all its modern touches it still retains lots of charming reminders of its colourful past.
And with plenty on offer for history and culture buffs, as well as families, nature lovers, fitness fanatics, foodies and sun-seekers, it really should be at the top of the list for any traveller looking for the perfect city break.
A great way to kick off your visit is with a guided tour of the Old Town, which will give you a sense of Valencia's rich and storied history.
First stop is the Ajuntament de Valencia, or the City Hall. These buildings are commonly known as 'ayuntamientos' throughout Spain, but the city is very proud of its native language, Valencian, a fact also evident in the street signs using the word 'carrer' instead of 'calle'.
With the Irish language having a revival back home, it is always heartening to see local tongues fighting back.
The Ajuntament, which is the seat of the local government, is a very imposing edifice and incorporates a former school, the Casa de la Enseñanza. It houses a museum and an impressive marble stairway inside, but the main attraction is a balcony where visitors can enjoy a panoramic view of the bustling plaza all around.
While on the balcony, cast your eyes upwards for a glance at the Ajuntament's clock tower, which bears the city's coat of arms, complete with a towering statue of a bat, the spirit animal of Valencia. Legend has it that during a 13th-century battle between Christians and Muslims, one of the winged critters alerted Jaume I and his troops as they rested in a camp to a surprise attack by the Muslim army.
Another place of immense historical significance is Llotja de la Seda, the Silk Exchange - which was made a UNESCO World Heritage Site back in 1996. Built in the 15th and 16th centuries, it helped Valencia to flourish thanks to the silk trade with the Americas, Asia and elsewhere.
La Llotja consists of three sections along with a walled courtyard boasting several orange trees - Valencia is famed throughout the world for its production of this fruit.
The most impressive section is the Sala de Contractació, or Trading Hall - this is where the silk merchants would have carried out the major business of the day - and its sense of grandeur, with huge columns supporting a domed ceiling, is certainly something to behold. Valencia's Central Market is a haven for foodies
Fans of amazing architecture can also check out the San Nicolas church, known as Valencia's Sistine Chapel thanks to its stunning pictorial display on the ceiling, as well as the Cathedral of Valencia, which has three distinct entrances in differing Gothic, Romanesque and Baroque styles.
The cathedral also houses what many believe to be the Holy Grail itself, the cup used by Jesus Christ at the Last Supper.
And if your legs are up to it, you can climb to the top of the majestic Micalet bell tower - a mere 207 steps on a winding spiral staircase - where the views from the top are some of the best in the city. There's also a handy traffic light system so you can avoid bumping into people coming the opposite way when ascending or descending.
Moving on to slightly more modern times, the Central Market, built in the 1920s, is the largest fresh-produce market in Europe and an absolute must for any gastronomy lovers.
With stalls stretching almost as far as the eye can see with every kind of foodstuff you could want - including, of course, those aforementioned Valencia oranges - I quickly regretted not bringing at least five extra suitcases in order to bring as much home as possible.
And bringing the modernity up an extra notch is the Hortensia Herrero Arts Centre. Located in a 17th-century former palace, it houses a contemporary art collection that includes more than 100 works from 50 renowned international artists, including Irishman Sean Scully.
Although you could happily spend hours walking around Valencia's Old Town - the buzzing Barrio del Carmen area is another place well worth checking out - if you want to explore even more of the city then hiring a bike is highly recommended, with Valencia well set up to accommodate cyclists.
While on two wheels, make for the Turia Gardens, one of the country's largest urban parks. Showcasing Valencia's talent for reinvention, the park was built in the 1950s on the former riverbed of the Turia - the course of the river had to be altered after it had caused a devastating flood.
Today, it's an oasis of calm in the city, a gorgeous green space that allows you to get back to nature amidst the hectic goings-on of a major metropolis. Undoubtedly, this played its part in Valencia being named the European Green Capital last year. The futuristic City of Arts and Sciences in Valencia
Traversing the park on my bike, I stopped at one point to examine a unique playground - and one that has a Irish connection. The Gulliver Park is named after Gulliver's Travels by Dubliner Jonathan Swift, and hosts a gigantic figure of the eponymous adventurer lying down secured by ropes just like when he visited Lilliput in the 1726 book.
The figure is covered with stairs, slides, ramps and ropes and is definitely a great spot for any parents with young children to while away a few hours.
The Turia Gardens also offer the perfect gateway to the glistening City of Arts and Sciences hub - a sleek, ultra-modern nod to Valencia's future.
Designed by legendary local artist Santiago Calatrava, there are several elements to this complex. The Hemisferic is a digital 3D cinema with a massive screen, while the Science Museum houses a number of fascinating interactive exhibitions and workshops. And for classical music fans, the Palau de les Arts hosts concerts, operas and ballets during the months of October and November.
There's also a massive, open-access garden called the Umbracle and a multi-purpose building called the CaixaForum, but for me the highlight is Oceanografic, which is Europe's largest aquarium and a haven for any animal lovers.
Oceanografic is divided into several sections such as Antarctic, Arctic, Wetlands and Mediterranean, and takes an educational approach throughout, with lots of useful information about marine conservation and the latest scientific research being carried out to combat the devastating effects of climate change.
Among the species on show are dolphins, sealions, turtles, crocodiles, penguins, crabs, octopuses and a wide variety of funky fish from all over the world.
A big draw though is a glass tunnel that you can walk through while fish and sharks swim overhead, which makes for some fabulous photo opportunities - and as this year is the 50th anniversary of Jaws, I felt it would be rude not to stage my own 'hunted by a shark' photoshoot (luckily there was a very cute ray on hand as well to counter all this scariness).
On the subject of nature, it is well worth venturing 10 kilometres out of the city to L'Albufera Natural Park, which boasts the largest freshwater lagoon in Spain and which is home to up to 300 different species of birds throughout the year, including some elegant flamingos.
A relaxing boat trip across the lagoon is the best way to experience it, while there are also walking trails throughout the reserve. L'Albufera natural park
And L'Albufera has another claim to fame - with paddy fields all around for growing rice, here is where the quintessential Spanish dish paella was invented.
For an authentic experience, try the paella valenciana, believed to be the original recipe - but be warned, it contains rabbit and snails alongside chicken (still delicious, however).
A second warning - don't try tackle one on your own like I did as they are designed to feed two people at least. I did my best to polish it off but I couldn't eat anything else for literally 24 hours afterwards - absolutely zero regrets though.
Finally, if you are just looking for somewhere to chill out with a great beach, then Valencia has that too - with almost 20km of soft, golden sands by the Mediterranean.
Sitting there with a beer at a beach bar in the Platja de la Malvarrosa, I thought to myself 'What more could you want?' But the great thing about Valencia is that it always somehow finds more to offer you.
GETTING THERE: Ryanair flies direct to Valencia from both Dublin and Cork.
WHERE TO STAY: The SH Colon hotel has an ideal location very close to the city's historic centre. With cosy rooms, friendly staff and a breakfast terrace perfect for enjoying a glass of orange juice in the morning sun, it's hard to beat.
WHERE TO EAT: The Bon Aire restaurant at L'Albufera is a super spot to try paella in its homeplace. La Maritima beside the marina is the place to go for seafood. Portolito Centro is also recommended.
GETTING AROUND: Valencia has a great public transport system. Pick up a Valencia Tourist Card, which includes free transportation on buses, trams and the metro. For bike hire, try Doyoubike Rental.
MORE INFORMATION: See www.visitvalencia.com/en.
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