The Best Dishes Eater San Francisco's Editors Ate in July
Mentaiko spaghetti at Bon, Nene
Dianne de Guzman
If you've ever hit the perfect trifecta of a San Francisco moment — friends, perfect weather, great food — it's a testament to what makes San Francisco great. These three elements came together on a recent July afternoon, topped off with an excellent lunch at Bon, Nene in the Mission. The cozy dining room felt welcoming, and it felt like a charming neighborhood spot as diners chatted over their dishes, or locals dropped in to pick up something to-go. The mentaiko spaghetti seemed right for the occasion, and although I initially had worries about the dish — Would I tire of the cured cod roe mix, like any experience of too much of a good thing? — it wound up perfect. The saltiness of the mentaiko was tempered by the use of butter, emulsified into a sauce, clinging to the al dente spaghetti. I worked my way through each bite, and before I knew it, I had polished off the dish, a surprise to even myself. In fact, the entire table had finished their plates in short order, and we walked away impressed and vowing to return. And when I do, this is one plate that will be on the table.
Bon, Nene (2850 21st Street, San Francisco) is open for lunch from noon to 2:30 p.m. Tuesday through Friday, and noon to 3 p.m. on Saturday; dinner from 5:30 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday.
— Dianne de Guzman, regional editor, Northern California/Pacific Northwest
Barbecue plate at Breakwater Barbecue
Paolo Bicchieri
I lived it: after two, three decent rips, I carried my seven-footer out of the Princeton Jetty and remembered Breakwater Barbecue's new spacious location was just thirty seconds away. I grabbed a table at the country bar-ish resevoir, a cowboy hat-wearing dude posted up by the smoker in the parking lot, a much more effective advertisement than the peppy sign spinners of yore. Got a half-pound of the brisket, a mini loaf of cornbread, and beans and greens, a medley of Simms Organics Swiss chard, black eyed peas, garlic, and house-smoked sausage. The cornbread was graciously moist, the beans and greens rich and a little sweet, and the meat itself was powerfully indulgent, a rare carnivorous splurge worth the price. It's no surprise to me that the bar and outdoor tables were full, the lazy Friday night energy paired with baseball and pro surfing on TVs above the breezy scene.
Breakwater Barbecue (10151 Cabrillo Hwy, El Granada) is open noon to 7 p.m. Thursday through Sunday.
— Paolo Bicchieri, editor, Northern California/Pacific Northwest
Pistachio baklava at Baklava Story
Rebecca Roland
You can smell Baklavastory before the tiny sidewalk sign comes into view, an aroma of sweet syrup and fresh-baked pastry drifting out to Harrison Street from the compact storefront. Owner Tolgay Karabulut is usually at the front of the store, handing out samples of his pistachio or walnut-riddled squares of baklava. At the same time, guests decide on a tray to take home. The fatal flaw of many baklavas is too-thick pastry sheets, which turn the entire sweet gummy. But at Baklavastory, each sheet looks almost fragile, strengthened only by the number of layers and semi-sticky syrup. Baklavastory only sells by the tray, which may seem like too much at first, but it's a great excuse to gather friends and share over some tea or plan for a few days of baklava breakfast. The walnut filling is great, but I think Karabulut's pistachio baklava may be among the best preparations I've ever had.
Baklavastory (1830 Harrison Street, San Francisco) is open 9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday through Saturday.
— Rebecca Roland, deputy editor, Eater Southern California/Southwest
Baby corn at Maritime Boat Club
Maritime Boat Club Dianne de Guzman
Yes, Maritime Boat Club is a seafood-focused restaurant, but it's the produce that really shined on my first visit. Beautiful slices of tomato paired with torn shiso leaves, balled melon dressed in tiny elderflowers, the entire dish a gentle pond of tomato water, dots of elderberry shrub and olive oil, was just on of quite a few dishes showing off for our region. But of all the summer produce highlighted on the menu, the baby corn stood out most: a plate of baby corn, husk and tiny kernels charred, giving way to tender cobs that provide a sweet, central, toothsome bite. Steamed, shucked, then grilled, gently cooked before being given the confidence of a sear. Crunchy bits of cranberry beans give the corn another dimension of texture, and the corn was accompanied by a burnt ash sauce and a smooth quinelle of Brokaw avocado puree. It made for a lovely addition, but these seasonal gems, under the hands of Maritime chef Felix Santos, was a treat. He says there's a small window to get them, so he can't pass them up when they appear at the farmer's market. If you, too, like me, mostly only ever experience baby corn through a tin can, this will also make you wonder what else you're missing out on.
Maritime Boat Club inside Palihotel San Francisco (417 Stockton Street, second floor, San Francisco) is open 5:30 p.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, and 5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday.
— Dianne de Guzman, regional editor, Northern California/Pacific Northwest
Strawberries and cream at Friends and Family
Paolo Bicchieri
The heightening pressure on queer communities in the United States makes the scene at Friends and Family feel all the more significant. That may be a reality or burden not that desirable for the destination bar. But headed over for the first time it was a palpable relief for me and my party, the aesthetics and staff offering a sense of familiarity before the exquisitely made drinks hit the table. Chef Gaby Maeda's dishes across the board landed with all four of us — the sesame-sprinkled onigiri and herby tteokbokki riffs were particular highlights. The strawberries and cream, though, merged the overt commitment to sweetness and Maeda's restaurant chops in fine fashion. Demerara sugar-studded strawberries, held to the surface with a straight-up sour cream, does something special to the soul these days. If nostalgia serves any purpose, maybe it's to remind us of a world that still feels, as poet and writer Hanif Abdurraqib notes. Thanks to Friends and Family for keeping bellies full and hearts beating while so much of our country eats itself.
Friends and Family (468 25th Street, Oakland) 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. Monday through Thursday and 5 p.m. to 11:30 p.m. Friday through Saturday
— Paolo Bicchieri, editor, Northern California/Pacific Northwest
Fishin' 4 Heat from Gigi's Cafe
Rebecca Roland
One of the best sandwiches I've had recently was from a Burlingame office park. Gigi's Cafe, set on the ground floor of an office building, right across the street from Embassy Suites, is a daytime cafe and sandwich shop hidden on the first floor of an office building. The mostly takeout operation (there are a few seats at the edge of the parking lot) serves a handful of breakfast items like croissants and egg-filled burritos, alongside a comprehensive sandwich menu. As a tuna melt devotee, the Fishin' 4 Heat immediately caught my eye, with tuna salad, pepper jack cheese, avocado, lettuce, tomato, and jalapenos on a craggly Dutch crunch roll. I almost missed the turnoff for Gigi's — a tight driveway at what looks like a dead end — on my visit. Towards the end of the day, the cafe was quiet, with one other diner in the parking lot hunched over a table, caught in a sandwich trance. Unwrapping the Fishin' 4 Heat, it was the size of a small animal — almost too large to hold, but I found a way. The tuna was the right texture, and the cheese did lend a welcome kick. The Dutch crunch fared better than most bread would, doing its best to hang on to the oversized creation. I'm already looking for my next excuse to take to Burlingame and head back to Gigi's.
Gigi's Cafe (111 Anza Boulevard Suite 111, Burlingame) is open 8:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Friday and 10:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturday.
— Rebecca Roland, deputy editor, Eater Southern California/Southwest
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