The Hermès Birkin bag that started it all: Jane Birkin's original will go up for auction next month

Economic Times

a day ago

The story behind the icon: Jane Birkin
Craftsmanship and rarity define the Birkin
Live Events
From pop culture to global phenomenon
A legacy passed on
(You can now subscribe to our
(You can now subscribe to our Economic Times WhatsApp channel
If you've ever dreamed of owning the original Birkin bag , now is your chance. Sotheby's will auction the prototype, created in 1984 for actress and style icon Jane Birkin , on July 10 in Paris. This is no ordinary handbag—it is the very model that sparked one of the most coveted luxury accessories in fashion history.Before the auction, the bag will be displayed at Sotheby's Manhattan gallery until Tuesday and then moved to Paris for public viewing from July 3 to 9. How much it will fetch remains under wraps. 'At this stage we will communicate it privately to potential bidders,' said Morgane Halimi, Sotheby's global head of handbags and fashion. 'Obviously it is a one-of-a-kind piece, completely apart from any other handbag, or any other Birkin. We are breaking records with Birkin bags on a regular basis at auction. We foresee it to be as unique as the Diana jumper or a worn jersey from the NBA. It has value because of what it is and what has happened because of that bag.'The bag's creation has become the stuff of legend. In 1984, Jane Birkin was on an Air France flight from Paris to London. Upgraded to first class, her worn wicker basket spilled its contents—wallet, keys, business cards, diapers, cigarettes, glasses—onto her seatmate, Jean-Louis Dumas, then CEO of Hermès . They struck up a conversation. Birkin explained she needed a spacious yet stylish bag. On an airsickness bag, they sketched the design of what would become the Birkin—two handles, tote style, a smaller version of Hermès's Haut à Courroies luggage.Part of the Birkin's allure lies in its rarity. 'There are a limited number of them created each year,' Halimi said. 'There is the craftsmanship: you can repair it and restore it and cherish it. And then in a world of fast fashion and seasonal trends, it's not going to be out of style anytime soon. If you are offered one to buy at Hermès, you feel like part of this small club.'This original bag differs from commercial Birkins: it stands just under 14 inches tall and nearly 16 inches deep, with non-removable brass hardware and unique studs. Even the inner zipper comes from a different manufacturer. One charming detail is a nail clipper Birkin attached to the outside, revealing her casual, unpretentious approach to these coveted bags.The Birkin transcended fashion to become a cultural icon. Mentioned in songs, TV shows—most notably the 2001 "Sex and the City" episode featuring the line, 'It's not a bag, it's a Birkin!'—it has captured imaginations worldwide. Social media users now 'Birkinify' their own bags and phones, mimicking the style and charm.Despite numerous copies and homages like the 'Boatkin,' the original remains unmatched. It has been displayed at New York's Museum of Modern Art and London's Victoria and Albert Museum, drawing thousands of visitors. Sotheby's last showcased it in Paris in 2024 and Hong Kong in 2025.Jane Birkin, who passed away in July 2023, owned five Birkins. One sold for around $160,000 in 2021. This prototype carries an extra layer of prestige. Birkin originally sold it at a charity auction for AIDS in 1994. It reappeared in auction in 2000 and was bought by Catherine Benier, a well-known collector and Paris vintage shop owner.Benier called it 'the jewel in my collection,' acquired after fierce bidding. She kept it mostly stored but decided to sell after thousands visited during recent exhibitions. 'A collection is only worth it if it's shared,' she said. She expects it to set new auction records but declined to name a price. 'Twenty-five years ago when I acquired it, it was already the most expensive bag in the world,' she wrote. 'All these elements fuel the legend of the first Birkin bag, so certainly a price exists, but what is it? This bag is the object of a lifetime, it's a legend, an icon. Does a legend have a price? Certainly.'Buying a Birkin is not simple. New bags range from $10,000 to over $100,000. Hermès does not display Birkins openly; buyers usually need a personal relationship with sales associates. The bag is also an investment. Like gold bars, its value grows with time and rarity. Birkin herself halted production of crocodile skin versions in 2015, protesting animal cruelty.For those who can't afford the real thing, fast fashion has stepped in. Last year, Walmart released a $78 knockoff, making the style accessible, if not the quality. But nothing matches the original Birkin's heritage.(With inputs from NYT)