At Pitti Uomo, the refined order and chaos of Children of the Discordance
Children of the Discordance chose the imposing Stazione Leopolda for its first show in Europe. Guest designer at Pitti Uomo, Japanese designer Hideaki Shikama, a regular on the Tokyo catwalks for his seventh show, immersed his guests in the dark, sophisticated world of his street-culture-inspired brand, with its singular, urban aesthetic.
See catwalk
With the percussive and electronic sounds of popular Japanese DJ Chaki Zulu providing the soundtrack, the atmosphere was underground in every sense of the word. Both in the dusty, misty palette of the clothes, and in the allure of the bad-boy models wearing studded boots signed by Korean label Aims Studio. Models hid their heads under hoods, scarves tied in turbans, or cowboy hats. Some wearing mouth jewels made by Tokyo-based Jewellers, which gave them an eerie metallic smile. It's no coincidence that the collection was entitled "Enfant Terrible".
This atmosphere was sublimated by smoky hues, hand-bleached effects, and different material layering techniques, imbuing many pieces with an unexpected authenticity, as if the garments were sun-worn or sun-washed.
After starting out in the boutique Ships and launching the cutting-edge multi-brand Acycle in Tokyo's Harajuku district in 2005, Shikama, now 45, founded Children of the Discordance with friends in 2011, which he has run solo since 2013. From the outset, he has been driven by an artistic and artisanal vein, making his own fabrics and prints.
Baggy pants with large pockets or drawstrings, in silk or nylon to layer over boxer shorts, tracksuits, and sweatshirts stained via the tie and dye technique, decorated with patches or embroidered cabalistic designs were just some of the most striking pieces in the collection. Some models, such as the zipped pants, were reminiscent of the creations of his compatriot Jun Takahashi, the designer behind Undercover.
See catwalk
The 35 looks in this collection for Spring/Summer 2026 revisited designs from Children of the Discordance's past and new creations inspired by a recent trip to Vietnam, where Shikama relied on embroidery workshops, the rest being produced in Japan. This season, the designer delved into the world of tailoring through a creative collaboration with a London-trained menswear designer and his close collaborator. The wardrobe was enriched by tailored shirts, jackets, pants, and shorts with clean lines.
Jackets in particular, including the tuxedo jacket, were the subject of a refined composition of different fabrics and men's wool sheets, in subtle patchworks. Some jackets alone combined some twenty different precious wools. Other models were overdyed, while others frayed, like a pair of silk shorts with a clean edge for an "unfinished" effect, while patterned silk ties were adorned with medallions.
As a wedding outfit, a crinoline dress made from hundreds of recycled jersey sweaters concluded the show with panache.
Today, Children of the Discordance is distributed through some 60 multi-brand retailers, almost half of them in Japan and the rest in Europe and North America. Prices are in the mid-range, with shirts priced at over 500 euros, given the high level of finishing and hand-crafting.
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Fashion Network
13 hours ago
- Fashion Network
At Pitti Uomo, the refined order and chaos of Children of the Discordance
Children of the Discordance chose the imposing Stazione Leopolda for its first show in Europe. Guest designer at Pitti Uomo, Japanese designer Hideaki Shikama, a regular on the Tokyo catwalks for his seventh show, immersed his guests in the dark, sophisticated world of his street-culture-inspired brand, with its singular, urban aesthetic. See catwalk With the percussive and electronic sounds of popular Japanese DJ Chaki Zulu providing the soundtrack, the atmosphere was underground in every sense of the word. Both in the dusty, misty palette of the clothes, and in the allure of the bad-boy models wearing studded boots signed by Korean label Aims Studio. Models hid their heads under hoods, scarves tied in turbans, or cowboy hats. Some wearing mouth jewels made by Tokyo-based Jewellers, which gave them an eerie metallic smile. It's no coincidence that the collection was entitled "Enfant Terrible". This atmosphere was sublimated by smoky hues, hand-bleached effects, and different material layering techniques, imbuing many pieces with an unexpected authenticity, as if the garments were sun-worn or sun-washed. After starting out in the boutique Ships and launching the cutting-edge multi-brand Acycle in Tokyo's Harajuku district in 2005, Shikama, now 45, founded Children of the Discordance with friends in 2011, which he has run solo since 2013. From the outset, he has been driven by an artistic and artisanal vein, making his own fabrics and prints. Baggy pants with large pockets or drawstrings, in silk or nylon to layer over boxer shorts, tracksuits, and sweatshirts stained via the tie and dye technique, decorated with patches or embroidered cabalistic designs were just some of the most striking pieces in the collection. Some models, such as the zipped pants, were reminiscent of the creations of his compatriot Jun Takahashi, the designer behind Undercover. See catwalk The 35 looks in this collection for Spring/Summer 2026 revisited designs from Children of the Discordance's past and new creations inspired by a recent trip to Vietnam, where Shikama relied on embroidery workshops, the rest being produced in Japan. This season, the designer delved into the world of tailoring through a creative collaboration with a London-trained menswear designer and his close collaborator. The wardrobe was enriched by tailored shirts, jackets, pants, and shorts with clean lines. Jackets in particular, including the tuxedo jacket, were the subject of a refined composition of different fabrics and men's wool sheets, in subtle patchworks. Some jackets alone combined some twenty different precious wools. Other models were overdyed, while others frayed, like a pair of silk shorts with a clean edge for an "unfinished" effect, while patterned silk ties were adorned with medallions. As a wedding outfit, a crinoline dress made from hundreds of recycled jersey sweaters concluded the show with panache. Today, Children of the Discordance is distributed through some 60 multi-brand retailers, almost half of them in Japan and the rest in Europe and North America. Prices are in the mid-range, with shirts priced at over 500 euros, given the high level of finishing and hand-crafting.
Fashion Network
13 hours ago
- Fashion Network
At Pitti Uomo, the refined order and chaos of Children of the Discordance
Children of the Discordance chose the imposing Stazione Leopolda for its first show in Europe. Guest designer at Pitti Uomo, Japanese designer Hideaki Shikama, a regular on the Tokyo catwalks for his seventh show, immersed his guests in the dark, sophisticated world of his street-culture-inspired brand, with its singular, urban aesthetic. See catwalk With the percussive and electronic sounds of popular Japanese DJ Chaki Zulu providing the soundtrack, the atmosphere was underground in every sense of the word. Both in the dusty, misty palette of the clothes, and in the allure of the bad-boy models wearing studded boots signed by Korean label Aims Studio. Models hid their heads under hoods, scarves tied in turbans, or cowboy hats. Some wearing mouth jewels made by Tokyo-based Jewellers, which gave them an eerie metallic smile. It's no coincidence that the collection was entitled "Enfant Terrible". This atmosphere was sublimated by smoky hues, hand-bleached effects, and different material layering techniques, imbuing many pieces with an unexpected authenticity, as if the garments were sun-worn or sun-washed. After starting out in the boutique Ships and launching the cutting-edge multi-brand Acycle in Tokyo's Harajuku district in 2005, Shikama, now 45, founded Children of the Discordance with friends in 2011, which he has run solo since 2013. From the outset, he has been driven by an artistic and artisanal vein, making his own fabrics and prints. Baggy pants with large pockets or drawstrings, in silk or nylon to layer over boxer shorts, tracksuits, and sweatshirts stained via the tie and dye technique, decorated with patches or embroidered cabalistic designs were just some of the most striking pieces in the collection. Some models, such as the zipped pants, were reminiscent of the creations of his compatriot Jun Takahashi, the designer behind Undercover. See catwalk The 35 looks in this collection for Spring/Summer 2026 revisited designs from Children of the Discordance's past and new creations inspired by a recent trip to Vietnam, where Shikama relied on embroidery workshops, the rest being produced in Japan. This season, the designer delved into the world of tailoring through a creative collaboration with a London-trained menswear designer and his close collaborator. The wardrobe was enriched by tailored shirts, jackets, pants, and shorts with clean lines. Jackets in particular, including the tuxedo jacket, were the subject of a refined composition of different fabrics and men's wool sheets, in subtle patchworks. Some jackets alone combined some twenty different precious wools. Other models were overdyed, while others frayed, like a pair of silk shorts with a clean edge for an "unfinished" effect, while patterned silk ties were adorned with medallions. As a wedding outfit, a crinoline dress made from hundreds of recycled jersey sweaters concluded the show with panache. Today, Children of the Discordance is distributed through some 60 multi-brand retailers, almost half of them in Japan and the rest in Europe and North America. Prices are in the mid-range, with shirts priced at over 500 euros, given the high level of finishing and hand-crafting.
Fashion Network
13 hours ago
- Fashion Network
At Pitti Uomo, Tommy Hilfiger unveils new menswear line based on soft tailoring
Eight years on, Tommy Hilfiger is making a comeback in Florence, as part of Pitti Uomo. On Tuesday, June 17, the American designer-entrepreneur set up at the Palazzo Portinari Salviati, a historic downtown palace transformed into the "Hilfiger Social Club" for the occasion. Loud music, spritz and whisky for all, a flock of influencers, and actors like Lucien Laviscount, making for the perfect setting to launch his new men's line New York, which debuts with Spring/Summer 2026. "I launched the brand 40 years ago with menswear. As we celebrate this milestone year, there's no better place to return than Pitti Uomo to continue that legacy. This season, we're reinterpreting the classic codes of the New York wardrobe with a refined, casual spirit," explained Tommy Hilfiger in the invitation card, by way of preamble. The brand has reorganized its men's offering, creating a more upscale line alongside its sportier line and Tommy Jeans, with a new aesthetic direction centered on soft tailoring. In the past, Tommy Hilfiger had launched the Tailored Line, but this was discontinued. "This time we're banking on a marriage between casual and formal dressing. We've listened to buyers' needs. That's what they're looking for. I'm sure they'll like it," said Hilfiger. A sophisticated, dressy range The new range, called New York, is both dressy and more sophisticated yet relaxed, revisiting Tommy Hilfiger classics while reconnecting with the label's origins. It is distinguished by its dark blue label, a reference to the label's original 1985 lion crest. The collection is built around timeless preppy essentials: the navy-blue blazer, the button-down shirt, the trench coat, and the chino. "When I started out, 40 years ago, I took my inspiration from Savile Row suits, giving them a lighter, more natural American touch. Now that the desire to dress is back, it's the perfect time to return to Pitti Uomo and open this new chapter in our men's history," said Hilfiger. The brand is focusing on quality. As such, these key pieces are redesigned in precious fabrics and soft, slightly structured cuts to suit the pace of modern life. The suits are made in cotton twill by Italian weaver Tessuti Di Sondrio or by other made-in-Italy names such as Lardini. The collection, composed of 19 looks, is inspired by modern American style in a more relaxed mode. The brand said it is wanting to adopt "a new approach to informal dressing, characterized by impeccable, crafted silhouettes that are elegant and easy to wear, bringing cool elegance to everyday life." "Men are currently moving towards something more refined, without losing the feeling of dressing with ease and pleasure. This collection reflects that spirit. I wanted materials that were as light and comfortable as possible, using technical and stretch fabrics and lots of knitwear. I love the navy suit in performance fabric, the blazer in fresh wool and textured linen, and the polo shirt in mixed silk," said the designer. Highlights included Ithaca striped shirts, knitted polo shirts woven in silk yarns, rugby polo shirts, lightweight overshirts, and linen blazers. Prince of Wales blazers were paired with baggy shorts. A red jacket was superimposed on the essential cricket V-neck sweater. The collection comes in Tommy Hilfiger's signature colors of red, white, and blue, with powder pink, cool blue, beige, and olive green. Produced in-house, the Tommy Hilfiger New York line will be distributed from February 2026 in the brand's boutiques and on its e-commerce site, as well as through a selection of multi-brand retailers. The brand, owned by the PVH Corp group, has sales of around $9 billion. It employs over 16,000 people worldwide, is present in 100 countries, and has over 2,000 boutiques.
