Hermes Beauty's creative director on how to wear glossy lipstick and make it work in Singapore's climate

CNA

2 days ago

When Gregoris Pyrpylis joined Hermes Beauty as creative director in 2022, the Greek makeup artist stepped into a house already making waves in cosmetics. Hermes had debuted with Rouge Hermes in 2020 – a statement collection of matte and satin lipsticks that telegraphed the maison's beauty philosophy from the start: Luxurious, intentional, and uncompromisingly crafted.
Three years later, the seasoned beauty professional – formerly global brand ambassador for Bioderma and European ambassador for Shiseido – was ready for his own defining moment. Enter Rouge Brillant Silky, Pyrpylis' inaugural lipstick collection for the storied house.
'[My first lipstick collection for Hermes] was about taking a more emotional and sentimental approach to the lip,' Pyrpylis told CNA Luxury during his recent visit to Singapore. 'It's more about how you feel – on a specific day, or for a specific occasion. I wanted to create a lipstick that feels like a companion, something you can use every day. Because we're all busy, this had to be easy, fast, maybe not even need a mirror.'
Launched this year, Rouge Brillant Silky is a luminous, skincare-infused formula that delivers glossy colour and nourishing care in one intuitive swipe. With 14 permanent shades and three seasonal limited editions, the collection offers a fresh, sensorial take on lip colour that feels as effortless as it looks.
INSPIRED BY SILK SCARVES
Pyrpylis' inspiration traces back to childhood. 'When I was five or six, my mum would pick me up from school – this was in the early '90s in Greece – and she used to wear these long silk chiffon scarves,' he recalled. 'They were light, airy, and sometimes they would brush against my face in the wind. I'd see the world through those scarves – blue, coral, pink – and it felt magical.'
That sense of softness and lightness became the soul of Rouge Brillant Silky. 'I thought, what better way to honour that memory – especially at Herm e s, a house known for its silk – than to create a lipstick inspired by the feeling of silk on the skin,' he said. 'I took the transparency and airiness of chiffon, the luxurious softness of silk twill, and the luminous finish of silk lame, and poured all of that into the texture of this lipstick.'
ALL THE LIGHT WE SEE
Born and raised in Greece, Pyrpylis' artistic philosophy centres on light – not merely as visual element, but cultural cornerstone. 'In Greek culture, we define life as light,' he explained. 'I grew up surrounded by the Mediterranean, where the light constantly changes the colours of the sea and the sky.'
His philosophy echoes Homeric epics, where heroes live only as long as they 'see the light of the sun.' For Pyrpylis, that notion still resonates. 'I wanted my collection to pay homage to my singular relationship with light and perception,' he said.
This deep connection inspired everything from texture and shade selection to artistic references – including American artist James Turrell, whose immersive light installations explore how colour and perception shift across environments. 'He alters how we perceive space through light,' noted Pyrpylis. 'I love his work. It's very spiritual, very meditative.'
A HYBRID FORMULA FOR MODERN LIFE
From conception, Pyrpylis envisioned a hybrid: Skincare meets colour. Rouge Brillant Silky delivers with 85 per cent naturally derived ingredients including raspberry leaf extract for hydration, sesame seed extract for smoothening, Abyssinian oil for nourishment, and antioxidant-rich white mulberry.
'The breakthrough moment came when we finalised the formula,' he recalled. 'We achieved a high percentage of natural-origin ingredients without compromising performance. That was the happy surprise.'
The lightweight yet buildable formula glides on effortlessly, leaving what Pyrpylis describes as 'a light veil of colour you can build to your liking.' One layer delivers a wash of tint, additional layers intensify. Our favourite part? Unlike most lipsticks that require balm as primer, this one is moisturising enough to wear on its own.
The application experience was equally considered. Working with Pierre Hardy – Hermes' creative director for shoes, fine jewellery, and beauty objects – Pyrpylis focused on how the lipstick would feel in use, while Hardy brought that vision to life through its physical design. 'I imagined it as something inviting, something you could hold and apply easily,' he shared. 'We knew it had to be more elongated, with a slanted tip.'
The resulting oval slant naturally hugs lip contours. 'You can use it precisely, or you can be spontaneous – swipe it on, dab it on, even apply it with your finger.'
The case maintains Hermes Beauty's signature elegance: Lacquered, brushed, and polished metal in black, white, and gold finishes, and fully refillable like its Rouge Hermes predecessor. The Rouge Brillant Silky lipsticks from the permanent collection retail for S$118 each, while the limited edition shades – presented in radiant, acid-toned cases inspired by artist James Turrell's light installations – are priced at S$134.
A CONSIDERED COLOUR WARDROBE
Colour selection proved equally deliberate. 'I didn't want an oversaturated collection with 30 shades – that's overwhelming,' said Pyrpylis. 'Instead, I challenged myself to create a well-edited selection that feels intuitive.'
The 14 permanent shades balance iconic Hermes colours like Rouge H and Rouge Casaque with new, wearable neutrals. Among them, he highlights three versatile browns and beiges: Beige Tan for lighter skin t ones, Brun D'Ambre's warm caramel for medium complexions, and the deeper, richer Brun Sellier for darker skin.
But Pyrpylis resists rigid shade assignments. 'Even lighter skin tones can wear Brun Sellier,' he noted. 'On fair complexions, it reads as purplish brown; on darker skin, the same shade softens to warm beige.'
This flexibility defines Rouge Brillant Silky's appeal. 'No matter which colour you pick, it's going to look good,' he insisted. 'The texture's transparency allows you to experiment – even with shades you might not have tried before, like an orange or a bright red.'
The collection's surprise bestseller? Beige Halo from the limited-edition range – a soft beige infused with pearlescent pigments. 'I was fond of it from the start. Very elegant, luminous, easy to wear without a mirror. I thought our bestseller would be bolder, but this became our number one globally. We got the finish just right – beige with hints of pink and rose, and that glossy texture makes lips look beautifully hydrated.'
EMBRACING THE SHINE
In humid climates like Singapore's, where high-shine finishes can feel risky, Pyrpylis urges wearers to reconsider. 'Lips can never be too shiny,' he asserted with a smile. 'They're one of the elements on the face that can capture light in a beautiful way and evoke freshness."
Still, he acknowledges the practical concerns in tropical heat. 'I know people want makeup that grips – foundation, primer, skincare that stays put. But this lipstick was never meant to be one you apply once in the morning and forget,' he explained. 'It's not like a matte long-wear formula. It's designed to be reapplied – and you want to reapply it.'
In fact, he adds, that's part of its charm. 'The formula is nourishing, comforting. Even the gesture of putting it on feels good.'
For balance, he suggests pairing glossy lips with velvet-finish base makeup. 'If the skin has a satin or semi-matte finish, it gives the lips room to shine without overwhelming the face.'
PRO TIPS
Here are Pyrpylis' top tips for effortless, beautiful lip makeup:
Perfect the prep: 'Lips look their best when they're smooth. A good lip scrub once or twice a week makes a big difference.'
Play with colour: 'You can create a beautiful ombre effect by starting with a beige base and tapping a red in the centre. Or use an orange liner and blend inwards, finish with a pink lipstick like the Rose Himalaya in the centre. Mixing unexpected shades sometimes creates editorial-worthy statements.'
Add strategic glow: 'After applying the lipstick, use what's left on your fingers and dab on your cheeks, even the bridge of your nose. It gives a sun-kissed effect — like you just got back from holiday.'
Build throughout the day: 'Dab on in the morning for a wash of colour and build it up gradually during the day. For evening, you can go full on with three layers, or pair with liner for a bolder, more assertive definition.'