Ongetem: Bertus Basson goes untamed in the city

Time Out

01-07-2025

'Restaurants shouldn't always have a concept. Sometimes, they should just have delicious food.'
That's Bertus Basson - straight-talking, a proudly local Afrikaaner, and now officially on Cape Town turf with Ongetem as his first sit-down city restaurant.
It's not just a new chapter in his food empire - it's a full-throttle, fire-cooked, hip-hop-soundtracked rally cry for locals who simply want to eat well, without the pretence (don't be surprised by the cowhide over your table).
Located inside the new Hilton Canopy Hotel on Park Road in Gardens - Ongetem (Afrikaans for untamed) is gritty, playful, and living up to its name.
'There's already enough fancy-smansy in Cape Town,' says Bertus. 'We wanted to build something for South Africans — where you can grab a burger and a martini on a weeknight or bring your missus for date night.'
He's not exaggerating - it's the kind of spot where you can rock up in boots or heels, stay for cocktails, or order a two-course including a cheese burger (R130) and soufflé (R140), and still afford rent.
This is Basson's shot at building that ' reasonable middle ' in Cape Town dining, the kind of place he believes locals should be happy to pop into at least twice a week.
Fire and food that doesn't F...(aff) around!
If you've eaten at any of Basson's other restaurants - Eike, Spek & Bone, De Vrije Burger - you'll know he doesn't repeat himself. 'All of our restaurants are different. It keeps us from getting bored.'
At Ongetem, he's dialled into raw, relaxed energy.
You'll find a rebellious aesthetic, where biker grease is polished by vintage chrome wall art with petrolhead flair, all accentuated by sleek finishes and warm lighting. It's where a large plate serves up juicy mature steak from top suppliers, together with flatbreads and even banana splits for dessert - including soft-serve made in-house, naturally.
One standout? The soufflé - a legendary dish from his Overture days that made a surprise comeback. 'We were tired of soufflés, so we killed it off at Chorus. But the team here learned quickly and are amazing - it was fun to bring it back.'
A restaurant where Bertus wants to hang out
Built in partnership with the Hilton, Ongetem is a hotel restaurant meets biker bar - but in that off beat I-could-eat-here-in-jeans-or-a-suit kind of way.
There's no buffet, it's something Bertus insisted on. Breakfast is plated and proper as he and the team are serious about serving on-point poached eggs. The space is safe and full of small luxury touches - such as direct lift access, so you don't get soaked on a winter night out.
And while it's housed in an international, 150-bed hotel, the heart is unapologetically local.
"It's the kind of place where I want to hang out, that's important to me. I wanted something produce-driven and simple — just lekker food.'
The team of young chefs behind the pass? 'Amazing, hungry to learn and hardworking. It's been a joy putting this team together," he adds.
On food trends, locals, and his legacy
True to form, Basson has no time for chasing trends. 'We're not chocolate. We're not here to make everyone happy. If you try to be everything to everyone, you end up being nothing for nobody.'
Instead, he's focused on purpose. 'You go to South China Dim Sum Bar for dim sum. You don't ask Ed for a burger. I don't go to Obi for pizza — I go for broth and sushi. Same thing here — come to Ongetem to eat good food, done our way.'
His way includes dishes like whole grilled baby chicken, pork neck and that burger he's quietly obsessed with.
'I like the burger here a lot,' he grins. The restaurant also prides itself on its focus on mature beef and "not (being) afraid of just putting a piece of meat on a plate".
Bertus shares that he splits his time between Stellenbosch and Cape Town, and eats like someone who lives for food, not fuss.
"Stellenbosch really is the food capital of South Africa to be honest with you. It's an amazing place. I still think De Vrije makes my favourite burger. But I also love Clarkes in Bree - great vibe and it's all about community which we really like."
"Ramen Head - whether at the Oranjezicht Market or their bricks and mortar store. We're very lucky. Cape Town's just a cool city to eat in.'
Final thoughts? Food should be fun
Fun is a word Bertus uses often during our sit down. At Ongetem, he wants you to drop in without ceremony, eat something delicious, and maybe have a little whisky or soft serve on the way out.
'We're not building rockets. We do small plates you share for first courses, little flatbreads, big steaks with the fire, a few large plates, simple desserts. It just works, and that's the energy."In this instance, mission accomplished.