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Watches & Wonders 2025: how the industry is adapting to growing demand from young collectors

Watches & Wonders 2025: how the industry is adapting to growing demand from young collectors

Euronews08-04-2025

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Watches & Wonders 2025 gathered 60 brands, with colours, materials, and innovation defining this year's trends. Hublot celebrated 20 years of its Big Bang collection with a striking red ceramic model, while Ulysse Nardin introduced the world's lightest mechanical diver's watch.
Luxury brands are adapting to younger buyers, who demand both craftsmanship and modernity. Parmigiani Fleurier embraces discreet luxury, while Tudor invests in sports partnerships to broaden its appeal.
Meanwhile, tech start-ups explore blockchain authentication and bespoke watchmaking. With heritage meeting innovation, the industry continues to evolve, ensuring fine watchmaking remains relevant for the next generation.

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Hublot names Nitish Kumar Reddy as friend of the brand
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Watches & Wonders 2025: how the industry is adapting to growing demand from young collectors
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ADVERTISEMENT Watches & Wonders 2025 gathered 60 brands, with colours, materials, and innovation defining this year's trends. Hublot celebrated 20 years of its Big Bang collection with a striking red ceramic model, while Ulysse Nardin introduced the world's lightest mechanical diver's watch. Luxury brands are adapting to younger buyers, who demand both craftsmanship and modernity. Parmigiani Fleurier embraces discreet luxury, while Tudor invests in sports partnerships to broaden its appeal. Meanwhile, tech start-ups explore blockchain authentication and bespoke watchmaking. With heritage meeting innovation, the industry continues to evolve, ensuring fine watchmaking remains relevant for the next generation.

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This year's 'Oscar's of the watchmaking world', the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), saw a prize for 'eco-innovation' making its debut. The award was simply known as 'innovation' in previous editions, of which the industry is never short of. This time round it has a specific focus on sustainability and traceability, with Chopard winning the award for its L.U.C Qualité Fleurier watch. Founded in 1860, the Swiss watchmaker has continually found ways to shake up to the industry. The L.U.C Qualité Fleurier watch is made using Lucent Steel, which Chopard originally developed with high-quality industrial scraps from Swiss watchmakers, along with high-grade steel from the medical, aerospace and automotive industries. Lucent Steel also stems from Chopard's creation of a local, circular manufacturing loop. All suppliers for recycled steel are based within 1000km of its manufacturing unit, either in Switzerland or its neighbouring countries of Austria, France, Germany and Italy, reducing the need for transportation emissions. Other eco-innovations IWC Schaffhausen announced earlier this year that it has created a patent-pending luminous ceramic which will be appearing on its watches in the near future. In 2020, H. Moser & Cie released a watch with a Vantablack dial, a material which absorbs 99.965% of visible light making it the darkest material on the market today. Developments in precious materials such as sapphire cases and scratchproof gold have been evolving over the past decade. There's no shortage of new materials, but the introduction of the eco-innovation category at GPHG will likely sharpen this focus on materials, but with an emphasis on reducing environmental impact. 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The watches come with a choice of strap styles including those made from grape leather, vegetal rubber and a new recyclable and biodegradable hemp-based material with a felt texture developed by material innovation company Revoltech. Julien Tornare, CEO of Hublot, has just returned from a trip to Mexico where the brand was celebrating a new plant-based leather strap: 'We launched a limited-edition strap made out of cactus leather. People love it because it's a sustainable approach, it's linked to the local culture, cactus is such an important element of the Mexican culture, and it couldn't be more Hublot because it's a fusion of material, a fusion of elements, that we're able to bring to a watch that had never been done before.' Environmental concerns The urgent need to reduce dependency on cattle farming, which is estimated to contribute about 7% of global greenhouse gas emissions according to the UN Food and Agriculture Organization, has sparked a growing market for alternatives. Luxury watches make ideal partners for material innovators due to the higher price point and small production quantities. Many new materials come at a premium due to the investment in research and development and are yet to scale to meet the leather demands of other industries such as fashion, interiors and cars. Tornare says that, as well as the environmental benefit, this approach is key to attracting a younger demographic. "What [Gen Z is] looking for is a watch that corresponds to today's lifestyle. I think it's important to show them that watchmaking is also evolving. That's why we are trying to bring new materials, we're trying to bring new technical developments, to show them that our industry is very much alive." For Ulysse Nardin, material innovation is about creating products with a lower footprint that are imperceivably different in how they perform, but set an example for conscious luxury. The brand has just announced the launch of what it is calling its most sustainable watch yet, made from almost entirely recycled materials including the steel and its silicon escapement. The Diver Net Vendée Globe watch celebrates the 10th anniversary of the Vendée Globe and is also made with upcycled carbon fibre sourced from a ship maker known for building boats used in the sailing race and textile made from upcycled fishing nets, enhancing the storytelling of the watch. Jean-Christophe Sabatier, chief product officer at Ulysse Nardin, says that while the footprint of the luxury watch industry is low, producing more sustainable products can have a ripple effect: 'We need to lead by example. If you can demonstrate that a luxury product that is partly, or entirely, recycled is attractive, then you contribute to help and promote the necessity to make a change. 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