Edinburgh's Expanding Espresso Elite

Edinburgh Reporter

2 days ago

In a column last summer, I featured what I then considered to be Edinburgh's best specialty coffee places; its 'espresso elite'.
These were (in no particular order) The Source, Beatnik, Lowdown, Little Fitzroy, Cult Espresso, Williams and Johnson, and Origin.
That list was far from exhaustive. Pleasingly, high quality new coffee spots continue to arrive in the city, while several established places continue to serve tasty brews. This new list includes a new spot, as well as one of the city's specialty coffee pioneers. There are , it should be noted, many other places serving fine coffee in the city.
What the list shows is that the availability of high quality coffee continues a steady rise. It's all part of a general shift in the UK towards coffee, evident since the 1990s. In this sense the UK is starting to resemble continental Europe where cafes are often very numerous. Despite Brexit, we are becoming more European in this aspect. It also illustrates the way in which cafes are much more than places to drink coffee; they are for many work and study hubs, and what the sociologist Ray Oldenburg termed 'third spaces' by which he meant publicly accessible locations where social interaction can take place.
Ante
Ante, on Haddington Place, is a compact basement coffee spot with a clear focus on standards, complementing Spry, the highly rated wine bar, on the floor above. On my first visit, my coffee was brought to me as if it was a goblet full of a liquid with immense religious significance. Though, what I imbibed did not produce a spiritual awakening, it was richly flavour-packed. My taste buds at least experienced something divine. The care and attention expended on it had been worth it. Ante is clearly a high class addition to the coffee scene. 1b Haddington Place, EH7 4AE.
Cafēn
Cafēn has, in a few short months created a definite buzz, not least among others in Edinburgh's coffee scene. All those I've asked have been very impressed. In all my visits, I've been served consistently excellent brews, showing off the interesting range of beans they stock. As with some of the very best places, this includes a real focus on different brewing methods, beyond espresso. The only drawback of this instant popularity is that seats can be difficult to find. It's well worth it if you can. 44 Dundas Street, EH3 6JN.
Room & Rumours
Room and Rumours in the Old Town initially attracted a lot of attention for its highly rated donuts but this should not eclipse the very fine coffee that they serve. This is made with skill and precision with their under the counter machine. Room and Rumours rotate the coffees they are using, changing every few weeks. These have included beans by Clifton Coffee, based in Bristol, and Girls Who Grind; an all female roastery. More recently, they've offered Hundred House Coffee, ethically sourced from sustainable, eco-conscious growers from around the world. In all cases, the quality of the coffee served has been outstanding, a testament to the consistency of their friendly and knowledgeable baristas and the well chosen beans. Arch 13, 25 East Market Street, EH8 8FS.
Artisan Roast
Artisan Roast, established in 2007, is one of Edinburgh's specialty coffee pioneers. I left Artisan Roast off the list last year as I felt there was a degree of inconsistency across its four venues. This seems to have been addressed and over the last few months I've been served superb cups at all four. I'd pick out their Bruntsfield Place location as consistently the best of the bunch, while their original Broughton Street branch has a distinct bohemian vibe. It's good to see that they have maintained a strong position after all these years. 138 Bruntsfield Place, EH10 4ER.
Detour Espresso
This place is marked by its lively, welcoming vibe. Manager Matt Rees has created an engaging place that attracts a substantial band of regulars. Many of them are students and academics from the university, on the other side of the Meadows. Detour is something of a creative hub, with a writers group meeting there, regular art exhibitions and a well curated selection of books available. Their customers are attracted by the interesting music choices, the varied discussion and banter – and by the coffee. This has, I feel, gone up a notch or two in recent years. A tribute to a small, well trained barista team. 39 Argyle Place, EH9 1JT.
Fauna
Fauna, and its sister café (Heart and Bottle, near Holy Corner) make excellent use of beans by the highly rated London-based Redemption Roasters. Redemption helps provide 'prison leavers with the skills they need to gain secure and meaningful employment'. Fauna's Turkish/ Greek pastries make a great accompaniment to their coffees: especially their very moreish cinnamon dusted vanilla bougatsa. The café itself is long and thin, with an uncluttered feel. The minimalist décor creates a cool and calming atmosphere on a bustling city centre street. Fauna's arrival was part of a post-Covid revival for specialty coffee in the centre of Edinburgh. 19a Queensferry Street, EH2 4QW.
Cairngorm
Cairngorm in Melville Place is one of the most elegant places to drink specialty coffee in Edinburgh. Cairngorm is also close to Dean Village and other fantastic spots to wander towards, clutching a cup of one of Cairngorm's well crafted brews in your hand. Established in 2014, Cairngorm manifests some of the trends we see in the coffee scene, including a general mainstreaming of specialty coffee. Cairngorm's original basement bar on Frederick Street, which eventually closed in 2023, opened when specialty coffee was something new and edgy. Specialty coffee is no longer an underground movement – literally in Cairngorm's case. 1 Melville Place, EH3 7PR.
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