Surrounded by water, Dutch swimmers have plenty of places to cool off
In a country dominated by waterways, canals, rivers and below-sea-level pastures, wild swimming is on the rise in the Netherlands as climate change increases temperatures and extends the summer season.
Amsterdam had just one official open-water swimming location in 2023. This summer, the city has 13 legal options for taking the plunge in a canal, pond or river, though residents frequently avail themselves of dozens of unofficial spots.
Tucked off of the Ij, a short walk from Amsterdam's central train station, the Marineterrein, a former base used by the navy since the 1600s is one of the newest official spots.
On a hot afternoon, the jetties and nearby parks are crammed with locals swimming, sunbathing and relaxing in the shade with a full-size replica of an 18th-century Dutch East India Company cargo ship moored nearby.
'I saw a video on Instagram showing some different places you can go swimming and this was nearby so I was like, 'perfect, let's go,'' Noortje Mol, who had just gotten out of the water, told The Associated Press.
In the famously egalitarian Amsterdam, there are neither showers nor lifeguards and the area is free for everyone to use. The former base was only designated a legal swimming area earlier this year. Before that, locals risked a 170 euro ($200) fine.
The city tests water quality regularly and the results are published on a national website.
'People think it's dirty, but it's not dirty at all,' said Argentinian Mike von Hütter, who remained unconcerned about cleanliness as he sat on a towel on the jetty.
The early morning crowd skews older and sportier than the afternoon revelers. A woman on a run stripped off her workout clothing and dove in, swimming a few laps before redressing and continuing her jog.
'Every morning is a light show,' said Myra de Rooy, 68, who started swimming at the naval base during the COVID-19 pandemic.
Many Dutch swimming areas allow skinny dipping and some so-called 'naked beaches' even require nudity. While bathing suits are supposed to be worn at the naval base, some among the morning crowd flout the rules.
There is a changing area but, de Rooy explained, in the morning no one uses it.
Despite the expansion of official swimming locations, many locals still jump into the nearest water when they want to cool off.
On the other side of the city, Hans, who declined to give his last name because he was swimming in an unofficial location, does his morning laps in a canal alongside passing boats.
'I swim every day, I've never had a problem,' he said.
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Travel + Leisure
a day ago
- Travel + Leisure
The U.K.'s Largest National Park Has a Royal-favorite Castle, Whisky Distilleries, and a 90-mile Scenic Drive
Cairngorms National Park is the largest national park in the UK, located in the scenic Scottish Highlands. Visitors can see Britain's only free-ranging herd of reindeer, go wild swimming, and hike through beautiful landscapes. It's best visited during the spring and fall, though it's also home to a ski area that opens during the winter. You don't enter Scotland's Cairngorms National Park through a gate—and you don't need a pass to visit its protected lands. In fact, the first time I drove through the Cairngorms, I didn't even realize I had entered the park. Heading north from Edinburgh, the landscape suddenly shifted to rolling moorland, rounded peaks, and pastoral scenery so photogenic, I couldn't help but pull over to the side of the road and take pictures every few miles. 'The tops of our mountains may not be as dramatic as some of the peaks on the west coast of Scotland, but for me, it's the recesses that are really magical,' says Lotti Papastavrou Brooks, a herder at Cairngorm Reindeer Herd, referencing the lochs, coires (glacial bowls), and glens within the park. Annie Armstrong, the founder of Wild Braemar, has similar views, adding that the Cairngorms are a 'juxtaposition between something constant, stoic, and ancient and something ever-changing, dynamic, and alive.' While the park's natural beauty is the main draw to the area—especially for adventure seekers—this is a destination with activities for everyone. Unlike the national parks in the U.S., the Cairngorms are considered a populated national park, one that's home to more than 18,000 residents living in its small towns and charming villages. There are whisky distilleries, water sports, a ski resort, and a five-star hotel that doubles as an art museum. You'll even find Balmoral Castle, a favorite summer residence of the late Queen Elizabeth II, just off one of the main roads. About half the size of Yellowstone, Cairngorms National Park is the largest national park in the United Kingdom. Still, according to Armstrong, travelers frequently make the mistake of rushing their trips to the area; in 2021, I made that error myself. 'The temptation is to try and see all of Scotland in one go, resulting in only one or two nights in the Cairngorms,' she says. 'I recommend slower travel. Take your time to really immerse and connect with this area.' On my second trip to this part of the Scottish Highlands, I took that advice to heart—opting to spend a week wild swimming in the park's crystal-clear rivers, hiking across its heather-covered hills, driving the winding, narrow roads that lead to some of the most breathtaking views in Scotland, and discovering the best ways to see this part of the country. Read on to plan your own trip to Cairngorms National Park. How to Get There A road leading to Cairngorms National you're traveling to Scotland from the U.S., you'll likely fly into Edinburgh. I'd recommend spending at least a day in the city to recuperate from jet lag before driving north, but you can also rent a car at the airport and immediately hop on the A9 toward Cairngorms National Park. You'll reach Pitlochry, considered a gateway town to the park, in about an hour and a half. If you're driving east from Glencoe or south from Inverness, you'll likely enter through Newtonmore or Aviemore, respectively. Aviemore is a popular resort town and active outdoor area, and it often serves as a basecamp for anyone traveling to the park by bus or train. If you'd prefer the public transportation option, you can find schedules and routes on Traveline Scotland. Alternatively, the Caledonian Sleeper train runs between London to Inverness, with a stop in Aviemore. Know Before You Go Landscape scenes around Cairnsgorms National Park. Lydia Mansel/Travel + Leisure As you start planning your trip to the Cairngorms, it's important to research the activities and places you're most interested in and map out each location using Google Maps (or a similar app). There are no public roads through the mountain range in the middle of the park, so you'll want to think about your journey as a giant loop. Most of the towns, villages, and points of interest on the west side of the park are connected by the A9; if you're traveling through the east side of the park—through Glenshee and Braemar and up to Grantown-on-Spey—you can take the 90-mile scenic route known as the SnowRoads. If camping is on your Cairngorms wish list, you'll need to brush up on the rules and regulations behind Scotland's 'right to roam' access rights. Thanks to the Scottish Outdoor Access Code, anyone can access the outdoors—forests, hills, moorland, etc.—but Brooks stresses that visitors should keep in mind the 'leave no trace' principle included in the code. Additionally, she says, it's best to set up your campsite away from any buildings or roads. 'You frequently see people parking at the side of the road and setting up camp next to their cars; this is not appropriate and you may be moved on by local rangers,' she says. If you're an experienced backpacker—and familiarize yourself with any restrictions in the area—you can even camp on or around some of the highest mountains (or munros) in the U.K.: Ben Macdui, the Cairn Gorm, Braeriach, Cairn Toul, and Sgor an Lochain Uaine. Best Time to Visit Spring flowers bloom in Cairngorms National Park. jacquesvandinteren/Getty Images Both Armstrong and Brooks recommend visiting Cairngorms National Park in either the spring or the fall. In the spring, notes Armstrong, you'll get amazing flowers; this time of the year is also when many new animals are born, so it's ideal timing for those travelers interested in local fauna. 'In September, you have the pink heather blooming,' she adds. The gorgeous shade is just one part of the autumn color palette, though. 'The colors in the woodland, with the contrasting yellowing birch and evergreen Scots pine and the low light of autumn, make it one of the most scenic times of the year,' adds Brooks. To avoid crowds, you'll want to plan your trip around any U.K. bank holidays and summer vacation. Summer is also less than ideal due to what Brooks describes as 'Scotland's most common biting fly.' Midges tend to come out between June to September, and she says they're particularly an issue if you're camping. No matter when you're visiting the park, be sure to pack the proper outerwear and plenty of layers; Brooks notes that it's not uncommon to experience all four seasons in one day. Best Things to Do Reindeer grazing in Cairngorms National Park. Lydia Mansel/Travel + Leisure Feed Britain's only free-ranging herd of reindeer. If you've ever wanted to see reindeer up close, book a hill walk with the Cairngorm Reindeer Herd. Led by one of the expert herders, your group will head out on a 30- to 40-minute walk across relatively rough ground to find the herd—so you must wear supportive boots or other appropriate footwear. When you reach the herd, you'll be able to feed them directly from your hand (and snap some photos, too). 'Being the only sub-arctic ecosystem in Scotland, the Cairngorms is the only place where reindeer can free-range in their natural environment,' explains Brooks. Go hiking. If there's one must-do in the Cairngorms, it's either go for a walk or a nice long hike. 'We have some of the finest hill and forest trails in Scotland with something for everyone, from low-level gentle woodland walks to some big mountain routes,' says Brooks. It's possible to go alone—just pre-download your trail map beforehand—but following a guide may be more beneficial. 'If you go with a guide, they can teach you the different types of trees and plants and show you areas where the forest is returning thanks to conservation work,' says Armstrong. Trek Scotland, Cairngorm Adventure Guides, AP Mountaineering, and Hillgoers all offer various hikes and walks through the park. Brave the cold waters while wild swimming. 'We are lucky to have many beautiful lochs and rivers perfect for swimming in,' says Brooks, who recommends 'either joining a group or hiring a guide' if you're new to wild swimming. Through her company Wild Braemar, Armstrong leads her own wild swimming experiences and even pairs them with a portable riverside sauna and cozy wilderness tent she sets up for guests. Explore Cairngorm Mountain. Scotland might not necessarily be known for skiing, but Cairngorm Mountain in Aviemore has a ski area that opens during the winter. In the milder months, guests can enjoy the tubing park, the mountain carting track, and the walking and mountain biking trails, and they can even ride up Scotland's only funicular railway, which reaches nearly 3,600 feet above sea level. Places to Stay Left: Bar interior; Left: Exterior of The Fife Arms. Lydia Mansel/Travel + Leisure The Fife Arms 'For those looking for a special luxury experience, I must recommend The Fife Arms,' says Armstrong. The five-star gem is certainly the most opulent property within the park—or in Scotland, for that matter. Known for its distinct design (lots of tartan, taxidermy, and an art collection that includes works by Picasso and Queen Victoria), it's both a luxe place to stay and an experience in and of itself. Cairngorm Bothies If you want all the comforts of home with a touch of the outdoors, reserve one of the standalone Cairngorm Bothies, just outside Aboyne. The self-catering units are eco-friendly and outfitted with walk-in showers, a wood-burning range, and a refrigerator; think of it as upgraded camping. Glenmore Campsite 'The Glenmore Campsite, situated in the woodland at the shore of Loch Morlich, is one of the most beautiful spots in Scotland,' says Brooks. You can bring your own tent, camper van, or RV, and reservations can be made online. While there's no public Wi-Fi at the campsites, there are toilets, showers, drinkable tap water, and battery-charging facilities, among other amenities. The Balavil Hotel The Balavil Hotel, a family-run property, combines local charm with a convenient location. The rooms themselves are pretty standard—you'll have a comfortable place to sleep after a day of outdoor adventure—but the location ensures you're within a quick drive of Aviemore. Depending on the season, you'll also be right by the Highland Folk Museum, an open-air museum that highlights life in the Highlands from the 1700s to the 1950s. Places to Eat Left: Bar interior; Right: Fish and chips inside The Flying Stag. Lydia Mansel/Travel + Leisure Fish Shop Armstrong says you 'can't beat' the Fish Shop, a Michelin-recognized seafood restaurant in Ballater. She credits the 'incredible food, service, and a meticulous ethos toward sustainability' for its must-visit status, and you can expect the menu, which changes daily, to include elevated dishes with local touches—like Shetland mussels with Scottish cider and leeks or smoked haddock rarebit on Balmoral bread. The Penny Bun 'For finer dining, The Penny Bun, based at Badaguish, pride themselves on using locally sourced and foraged ingredients to make some really fantastic food,' says Brooks. Although the food is on the more upscale end of the spectrum, the restaurant notes that 'kids, dogs, bikes, and muddy boots are welcome.' The Flying Stag Located inside The Fife Arms, The Flying Stag is an ode to the hotel's former life as a hunting lodge. It's more casual than the property's other restaurant, The Clunie Dining Room, and the menu features a range of hearty pub classics—including fish and chips, haggis, burgers, and beef cheek and Guinness pie. The Old Bridge Inn There's nothing like a simple pub meal at the end of an activity-filled day in the Cairngorms. If your itinerary brings you through Aviemore, you'll find just that—plus a wood-burning stove and a buzzy bar—at The Old Bridge Inn, located on the banks of the River Spey.
Condé Nast Traveler
3 days ago
- Condé Nast Traveler
Women Who Travel Podcast: Author Freya Bromley Talks Wild Swimming, Cornwall, and Puffin Encounters
You can listen to our podcast on Apple Podcasts and Spotify each week. Follow this link if you're listening on Apple News. Author and wild swimmer Freya Bromley returns to tell Lale why the restorative power of nature still holds true for her, the joy and community she has found at a women's swimming retreat in Cornwall, and her favorite—and little known—island for escaping to each summer. Plus, she extolls the virtues of puffin sightings. Lale Arikoglu: Hi, there. I'm Lale Arikoglu. Today on Women Who Travel, I'm talking to Freya Bromley, a past guest and CNT contributor. I had such a good time talking to her a few years ago about a year-long experience cold swimming across the UK, which sounds not quite for the faint of heart. I was so enamored by the idea that we've asked her back for an update on wild swimming and where it's taken her and some of her recent adventures as well as the subject of a new book she's working on. Freya, so good to see you. How have you been? Freya Bromley: I've been well, thank you. It's nice to reflect on that chat and all the best swims I've had since then, but you've got to tell me about your best swim since that time. LA: Oh my God, what have been my best swims? Actually, you know what? I thought of you because I did somewhat of a wild swim about a month ago in Peru, in the highest altitude lake in the world. It's winter there because it's Southern Hemisphere, and I did a cold plunge and jumped into the lake and then ran to a hot tub pretty quickly. It was quite a luxurious version of wild swimming, but it did feel beautiful and invigorating and the landscape was pretty spectacular. I'd say that might be my most memorable swim. Then I've been lucky enough to do lots of good travels that have taken me into some beautiful waters. Most recently I was in Sicily, which I feel like the Mediterranean has all those incredible rocks to jump off. I don't know. I love water. I love being in water. I think being a city kid in London, I didn't get that for a long time. Now I jump at the chance, but what have your swims been? You would've had a lot more than me.
Forbes
3 days ago
- Forbes
These Countries Are Introducing Huge New Tourist Fines Across Europe
With the European summer in full swing and tourist hotspots swelling, many countries are this year fighting back against the scourge of bad tourist behavior. The question that this begs, however, is what exactly constitutes bad behavior? That depends on the country you visit, many of which have introduced fines for seemingly innocuous things that many would never consider bad behavior. Authorities say the rules are aimed at protecting both residents and respectful vacationers. Fancy a drink? If it's alcoholic and you're in Amsterdam, or a raft of other European places, you'll need to go inside. getty 'The rules, while they might sound rigid and punitive when listed out, are all about encouraging responsible and empathetic traveling,' Jessica Harvey Taylor, Head of Press at the Spanish Tourism Office told the BBC. 'They are designed to protect the holiday experiences of the vast majority of people who behave responsibly on holiday.' Many regions that struggle under the volume of tourist numbers yet are dependent on them for survival have created code of conduct campaigns to inform and warn visitors before and during their stay. You may have already seen them on social media and many are now hard to miss once you're there—billboards, posters, the sides of buses and leaflets are all being used to spread awareness. Malaga on Spain's southern coast has launched an Improve Your Stay campaign urging visitors to respect the area, dispose of litter correctly, be fully dressed, keep the noise down and ride bikes and e-scooters responsibly. Don't follow the rules and you can expect a fine of up to €750; around $880. 'Tourism,' noted Juan Antonio Amengual, mayor of Calvià in Mallorca, 'cannot be a burden on citizens.' The beautiful Algarve city of Albufeira has introduced a new campaign encouraging visitors to respect place and people. getty Albufeira in Portugal's Algarve region has launched a similar Stop, Respect, Relax campaign with a vast array of offences and fines, from abandoning shopping carts in the wrong place to spitting, urinating or performing sexual acts or simulations in public. Fines range from €150 to €1,800; around $175 to $2,100. Alongside these rules, more cameras and an increased police presence—especially around nightlife hotspots where drunkenness is a huge root problem—are being used to show authorities mean business. European tourist fines and how to avoid them Fines are far reaching and inconsistent, both in terms of where they're implemented and what you can get fined for. Here's the breakdown. Fines while flying If you're flying in Europe, airlines are clamping down on what they consider unacceptable or antisocial behavior. Budget giant Ryanair (a litmus test for passenger trouble) has this summer introduced a €500 ($585) disruptive passenger fine in an attempt to 'help ensure that our passengers and crew travel in a comfortable and stress-free environment, without unnecessary disruption caused by a tiny number of unruly passengers.' Flying into Turkey could cost you more than you think if you don't adhere to new rules. getty Disruptive may mean something altogether different on a flight to Turkey. This year the Turkish civil aviation authority introduced 'administrative fines' of around $70 for passengers who unbuckle seatbelts, stand up or get out of their seat before the seatbelt sign has been switched off after landing at any Turkish airport. Onboard announcements inform passengers of the rules and consequences for breaking them, so it's worth actually paying attention to the tannoy messages if you're Turkey bound. If not, you could be out of pocket before you've even started your vacation. Fines while driving If you're renting a car in France, Spain, Portugal, Italy or Greece, make sure you're wearing proper footwear. From this year, if you're caught driving barefoot, or in flip flops or sandals, expect to pay fines of up to €300 (around $350.) Driving in flip flops could now cost you a €300 fine in several European countries. getty Naturally, levels, fines and consequences for speeding or driving while intoxicated vary from country to country, so make sure you're aware of the specific rules and pay attention to crossing borders by road, many of which are barely signposted across the European mainland. Fines for inappropriate dress One of the mostly commonly cited complaints from tourist areas around the world is visitors dressing disrespectfully or inappropriately. While many are used to covering up at historic monuments and in places of worship, new fines for wearing swimwear away from the beach are becoming increasingly common. Find yourself in bikini or boardies wandering city streets in Albufeira, Barcelona, Cannes, Sorrento, Split or Venice and you could be staring down the face of a €1,500 ($1,750) fine. Leaving the beach without covering up will now land you with a big fine in many major European cities. getty It doesn't stop at the beach though. If you're hiking the glorious trails of Cinque Terre Park in Italy wearing open-toe sandals or shoes with non-slip soles, officials on the trails may issue you a fine of up to €2,500 (more than $1,900.) Fines for public drinking and smoking Drinking alcohol in the wrong place can now land you not only in hot water with the authorities but also with a fine. Public drinking in the Canary Islands, Magaluf, and the Balearic Islands of Ibiza and Mallorca can now incur fines of up to €3,000 (around $3,500.) Smoking in many places is now equally frowned upon. Light up in a public place children may frequent (from beaches to parks, bus stops to sport centers) in France and you'll be subject to an on-the-spot €90 ($105) fine. While fines for smoking outside do already exist in certain places across Italy and Spain (Barcelona beach, for example), France is the first European country to implement a nationwide ban. A crackdown on all bad tourist behavior Many of these fines feel appropriate, if expensive, and are clearly priced primarily as a deterrent to bad behavior rather than as a punitive income. Some may catch you by surprise though. Find yourself on the famed white-pebble Lararia Beach on the Aegean Island of Skiathos and you may be tempted to take just one pebble home as a souvenir of your stay. Every pebble on Lalaria Beach could cost you a thousand euros. Best to just take photos instead. getty Heads up—that will cost you €1,000 in fines. So scared are the authorities of their beach being depleted that they've erected 'Lalaria Beach pebble return boxes' at airports, where potential pebble smugglers are also subject to suitcase searches. In Venice, if you sit on the ground or steps to eat or drink, you'll be banned from the area and fined up to €200 ($235.) Take a dip in its famed canals and that fine increases to €350 ($410.) Perhaps most surprising of all, beaches in the likes of Barcelona and the Costa Blanca have introduced a 'sunbed tax' in an effort to stop early morning stampedes to claim the best spot. Reserve too early, or leave your towel on one unattended for too long and you could end up with a €250 ($290) fine. These fines are just the latest efforts in a war against overtourism that has been raging for years. City tourist taxes are now commonplace in the most popular destinations, and many are going a step further by limiting the number of visitors allowed and banning certain types of holiday rentals. Anti-tourism sentiment is a part of everyday life in many tourists hotspots, but few more than Barcelona. NurPhoto via Getty Images Authorities are finally waking up to the impact not just overtourism but also unruly tourists is having on the lives of its residents. These fines are simply the latest measure in that push towards local-visitor equanimity, but whether they will work or not is yet to be seen. While it always pays to be respectful and polite when traveling, knowing the specific rules and regulations for each place you visit could now save you even more.
