Out derm spot! We take a dive into the new salmon sperm skincare trend

News24

2 days ago

Carmen Williams dives into the latest breakthrough in skincare, PDRN, a DNA-derived ingredient often sourced from salmon sperm, that's transforming skin repair, anti-aging, and post-treatment recovery. Get into the science behind PDRN, its proven benefits, and why South African clinics are beginning to embrace this innovative treatment. Whether you're curious about in-clinic options or topical applications, this guide has everything you need to decide if PDRN deserves a spot in your skincare routine.
Retinol, ceramides and hyaluronic acid are just some of the trendy skincare ingredients we've seen in the last few years, but now there's a new supreme – and its origins might surprise you.
Polydeoxyribonucleotide (PDRN), a DNA fragment most commonly sourced from salmon sperm, is being hailed as a game-changer for skin repair, anti-ageing, and post-treatment recovery. But does it live up to the hype? Are South African aesthetic clinics offering these treatments? And what should you know before trying this new miracle ingredient?
News24 spoke to Dr Dilshaad Asmal, a dermatologist, and Maryke Kaasjager, aesthetician and owner of Best Laser and Skin Clinic, to unpack the science, benefits, and whether this ingredient is worth adding to your skincare routine.
What exactly is it?
PDRN is a DNA-derived ingredient that promotes cell regeneration, collagen production, and wound healing. Originally studied for its ability to speed up recovery in diabetic ulcers (with one Italian study showing 37.3% of PDRN-treated wounds fully healing within eight weeks compared to just 18.9% in the placebo group), it has since made its way into aesthetic medicine and luxury skincare.
'It has regenerative and anti-inflammatory properties,' explains Asmal. 'It stimulates fibroblasts, the cells responsible for collagen, and helps with new blood vessel formation, ensuring better nutrient delivery to skin cells.'
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What surprises most people is that most PDRN in use today comes from a derivative of salmon sperm, thanks to a similarity between the polynucleotides extracted from salmon DNA and human DNA. However, plant-based alternatives are emerging, like ginseng-derived PDRN. Ginseng has antioxidant properties and may improve hydration and elasticity, but it's more commonly found in cosmetic products rather than medical treatments.
Salmon-based PDRN remains the gold standard - unless you're allergic to seafood (more on that later).
Kaasjager's clinic became interested in using PDRN after seeing its success overseas.
'We're always on the lookout for innovative, evidence-based treatments that deliver real results,' says Kaasjager. 'After diving into clinical studies and witnessing its success in Korean and European clinics, we decided to incorporate it into our microneedling treatments.'
PDRN in skincare: What can it actually do?
According to Asmal, the most proven benefits of PDRN include:
Firmer, smoother, more elastic skin
Reduced fine lines and wrinkles
Improved hydration and skin tone
Faster healing post-surgery or laser treatments
Kaasjager also praises the ingredient and its benefits. But there's a catch - how you use it matters.
Injected vs topical: What works better?
Injected PDRN (used in clinics) penetrates deep into the dermis, activating collagen synthesis and blood vessel formation.
Topical PDRN (serums, creams) has limited penetration due to the skin barrier. 'Studies support that injected PDRN is more effective,' says Asmal.
So, while PDRN-infused serums may offer some benefits, in-office treatments (like microneedling with PDRN) deliver far better results.
At Best Laser and Skin Clinic, Kaasjager and her team offer various treatment options, such as a microneedling serum during Dermapen treatments, radio-frequency needling, and after HIFU skin tightening. 'While still considered advanced in South Africa, awareness is growing rapidly,' says Kaasjager.
Who should try PDRN?
PDRN isn't just for anti-ageing; it's a great skincare multitasker that can help with:
Ageing skin (boosts collagen, reduces wrinkles)
Acne scars & pigmentation (improves skin tone)
Post-laser or peel recovery (speeds healing)
Inflammatory skin conditions (soothes irritation)
Hair growth (early studies suggest scalp benefits)
Post-surgery healing (used in plastic and orthopaedic surgery)
Is it safe for all skin types?
Kaasjager says that PDRN is generally safe for all skin types, even sensitive skin, but precautions are taken with clients who have seafood allergies, active infections, or are pregnant or breastfeeding.
'We prefer using it with microneedling treatments for better tolerance,' she says.
'Ensure you're working with a trained professional using high-quality PDRN and have realistic expectations. Best results come from a series of treatments and a holistic skincare approach,' adds Kaasjager.
Can PDRN replace retinol or microneedling?
The short answer? No. But it is a potent enhancer of those treatments. 'It's not a replacement, but it enhances outcomes,' says Asmal.
PDRN + retinol = Better hydration and repair for sensitive skin
PDRN + Microneedling = Faster collagen stimulation
Kaasjager says PDRN can make for a powerful combo: 'When combined with RF microneedling or laser, PDRN accelerates healing, amplifies collagen production, and reduces downtime. It's a game-changer for achieving better textural improvements and glow.'
She adds that PDRN works well with hyaluronic acid, peptides, ceramides, and niacinamide, but aggressive exfoliants should be avoided after treatment to ensure the most benefits. It is worth noting that PDRN is not suitable for those with seafood allergies, particularly an allergy to salmon. Be sure to inform your aesthetician of your allergy before treatment of any kind.
What are the risks and side effects?
While using PDRN is generally safe, you should watch out for:
- Redness, swelling, or itching (common at injection sites);
- Rare allergic reactions (especially if you have a seafood allergy because it should be avoided in that case);
- Avoid if pregnant, breastfeeding, or immunocompromised.
Is it just a niche fad, or will it become mainstream?
While it's still a luxury treatment, Asmal believes PDRN has staying power. 'There's a growing demand for non-invasive anti-ageing treatments,' she says. 'It's being used in dermatology, plastic surgery, and post-laser care.'
But she warns: 'It is not a miracle anti-ageing treatment, and it does not work immediately. Its effects are gradual, and multiple sessions are needed to see results. There is no instant gratification.'
Kaasjager adds that in-office treatments can produce faster results, but they still take a while: 'With microneedling, clients typically see improved hydration within 7-10 days. Long-term benefits like improved texture and elasticity become noticeable after 3-4 sessions.'
But if you're using topical treatments, look for products that have been clinically tested by reputable manufacturers. 'Professional-grade products generally have higher concentrations,' she says.
'We believe PDRN is on the trajectory to become much more mainstream, especially as regenerative aesthetics grow. It may soon become a standard skin-repair ingredient,' says Kaasjager.
PDRN is more than just a skincare trend - it's a clinically backed regenerative treatment with documented benefits when incorporated into skincare routines under professional supervision.
While topical products may offer some perks, the best results come from in-clinic procedures. Microneedling treatments with a dermapen at Best Laser and Skin Clinic are R1 590 for the basic treatment, but there's an additional fee of R300 if you're adding PDRN.