A luxury hillside escape at Vana Belle in Koh Samui

The National

a day ago

Koh Samui may have gained new attention as the backdrop for the latest season of The White Lotus, but the island has long been a favourite among travellers.
Thailand 's second-largest island after Phuket welcomed about 2.78 million visitors last year – a 21 per cent increase from 2023 – a number expected to rise further with the show's global appeal. Yet, Koh Samui has always had plenty to offer, from stunning sunrises and sunsets to white-sand beaches and jungle-covered hills.
Vana Belle, a Luxury Collection Resort, Koh Samui, is only 15 minutes from Samui Airport. Tucked away in a secluded area on Chaweng Noi Beach, which is known for its powdery sands and fringe of tropical forest, the resort also offers easy access to shops, restaurants and nightlife.
The National checked in for a two-night stay to discover one of the island's luxurious five-star resorts.
The welcome
Koh Samui is about an hour's flight from Bangkok, with Bangkok Airways operating several daily flights to the island. After a short ride from the airport, my group and I are greeted with warm smiles by the staff, who offer us cool towels and refreshments, and put beautiful fresh flower bracelets around our wrists. The open-air lobby offers magnificent views of the watery dreamscape.
The resort is located on the southern edge of Chaweng Beach. While secluded – as its rooms and suites are situated on a hillside – it is still conveniently located near Fisherman's Village and is a short 10-minute drive from Chaweng city centre. The vibrant hub is known for its beautiful beach, lively nightlife and diverse dining and shopping options.
The room
If there's a bad view at Vana Belle, I don't find it - and that's having slept in two rooms during my stay. The first night, I settle into a premium ocean pool one-bedroom suite that spans 86 square metres and includes a living and sitting area.
This bedroom epitomises tropical luxury, blending indoor comfort with outdoor serenity. A plush king-sized bed faces a wide, floor-to-ceiling opening that leads to a private terrace with a stunning infinity pool, offering uninterrupted views of turquoise waters and villas nestled in lush greenery.
This bathroom has an open-concept design and sleek finishes. It features a stylish free-standing bathtub and a separate rainfall shower. A double vanity with vessel sinks and contemporary fixtures stands at the centre, flanked by tall, elegant mirrors that subtly divide the room.
And while the space feels every bit as peaceful as it was designed to be, after one night, I have an issue that becomes abundantly clear – the air conditioning is not working properly. Although the staff is quick to address the problem, I end up switching rooms.
The next day, I'm moved into the grand suite, which is a one bedroom with a private pool and an ocean view. While it offers a similar bedroom layout, the bathroom is bigger (as it has a dedicated space) and the private pool is larger as it wraps around the suite.
The food
Later in the evening, my group attends a dinner with a special set menu at Kiree, a charming southern Thai beachside restaurant. We're seated in a private room that closes us off from other diners to offer full privacy.
From the menu, we're given options of an appetiser of Thai-flavoured tuna tartare or burrata; mains of broiled lobster tail or bai mui marinated beef tenderloin and dessert with coconut creme brulee or pistachio tiramisu.
I start with the burrata, which is soft and creamy, paired with fresh tomatoes and a light drizzle of olive oil that lets the quality of the ingredients shine. The bai mui-marinated beef tenderloin is rich and full of flavour, cooked to a medium rare and served with a well-balanced sauce. For dessert, the coconut creme brulee stands out, the custard is smooth and not too sweet, with a crisp, caramelised top that adds a refreshing finish to the meal.
Although we had a special set menu, Kiree offers similar items on their menu such as burrata salad (690 Thai baht or Dh79), 250g Thai French Charolais beef tenderloin (1,690 baht) and lavender creme brulee (390 baht) for price point reference.
The breakfast scene
Breakfast is also at Kiree, which offers impressive water views. In the mornings, a buffet-style set-up is available, along with an a la carte menu. It features a mix of Thai and Western-inspired dishes, ranging from avocado toast to tori katsu kare rice (crispy breaded chicken cutlet in curry sauce and rice).
I try the Thai tea and a passion fruit and ginger smoothie to feel alert for the day. The scrambled tofu – which comes with spring onion, coriander and cherry tomatoes, served on multigrain bread – can be found under the 'healthy options' section of the menu. It makes for a good, protein-filled meal to kickstart my day with.
Meanwhile, the buffet set-up also includes fresh fruit, international cheeses, pastries, breads, smoked fish, seafood, Thai and Asian specialities, as well as gluten-free brownies, which are a nice touch for those who like something sweet in the morning.
Hotel facilities
Each of the resort's 79 suites and villas come with a private pool and spacious terrace, offering privacy and comfort. Guests also have access to a beachfront infinity-edge pool with panoramic sea views, along with direct entry to a private stretch of Chaweng Noi Beach, often regarded as one of Koh Samui's most beautiful.
The resort has a 24-hour fitness centre, while Vana Spa provides a peaceful retreat with traditional Thai therapies, steam rooms and wellness activities such as yoga. Guests can also choose from a variety of rejuvenating treatments and massages.
Dining options include two signature restaurants – Kiree, which serves refined international cuisine, and Panali, offering authentic Southern Thai and Asian dishes in a beachfront setting. Guests can also enjoy drinks at the poolside bar or lobby lounge, with 24-hour in-room dining available.
Accessibility and sustainability
The resort is easy to get around, with smooth pathways, step-free entrances and accessible suites and facilities that make it convenient for wheelchair users and guests with limited mobility to move around on their own. For those who need help getting to places such as the beach, which is down a hill, there's a complimentary buggy service.
Vana Belle has also taken steps to reduce its environmental impact. The resort recycles its food waste and manages water use through recycling and reuse systems. Energy-saving measures such as LED lighting and solar panels help cut down on electricity use, while single-use plastics have been replaced with more sustainable options.
The property also uses 100 per cent certified natural and organic in-room amenities, making it the only Marriott resort in the world with that certification.
The service
Staff are attentive and helpful, particularly with the air conditioning issue. I alert the personal butler assigned to me that the unit isn't cooling properly, and within 30 minutes, a maintenance worker arrives at my door. While the issue isn't fully resolved, the team quickly arranges for me to move to another room, transferring all of my belongings for me.
On our final day, my group and I check out at the usual time, though our flight isn't until the evening. Thankfully, we're allowed to use the spa facilities to shower before heading to the airport, a much-needed relief in the humid Thai weather.
Value for money
Pricing is dependent on the dates and the season, with deluxe rooms starting at about 11,400 baht (Dh1,290) per night. Check-in is from 3pm and check-out is at noon.