What Alder's Michelin-recognized chef eats in Toronto — including perfect pistachio brioche
Where Chefs Eat is a weekly series that asks Toronto chefs and restaurant owners to name their favourite places to dine in the city: where they go for everything from weekend brunch to late-night cravings, fancy dinners to dessert.
This week: Takayoshi Li, chef de cuisine at Alder
Known for: Innovative wood-fired cuisine that highlights smoking and grilling techniques.
Each new Patrick Kriss restaurant draws much ballyhoo, given the Alo founder's stature as one of Canada's most legendary chefs. His partnership with Ace Hotel Toronto was no different; Alder has already earned Michelin recognition for its wood-fired cuisine. Alas, Kriss can't be everywhere at once, so chef de cuisine Takayoshi Li mans the fort. 'Chef Patrick's guidance is highly valued for menu development and providing fresh perspectives and expertise on the entire dining experience due to his extensive knowledge,' Li says. 'He gives us a lot of room to be creative and we like to bounce ideas off one another to create dishes.'
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After four vegan years, chef Daniel Humm announced he's bringing meat back to the menu at Eleven Madison Park The three-Michelin-starred Eleven Madison Park was named No. 1 in The World's 50 Best Restaurants in 2017. Photo byChef Daniel Humm made history when he reopened New York City's Eleven Madison Park (EMP) with an entirely meatless menu in 2021. It became the world's first three Michelin-starred vegan restaurant the following year. After making the switch as a 'creative leap and a climate imperative,' Humm announced on Wednesday that he's bringing meat back to the menu, telling The New York Times, 'I didn't realize that we would exclude people.' This advertisement has not loaded yet, but your article continues below. THIS CONTENT IS RESERVED FOR SUBSCRIBERS ONLY Subscribe now to read the latest news in your city and across Canada. Exclusive articles by top sports columnists Patrick Johnston, Ben Kuzma, J.J. Abrams and others. Plus, Canucks Report, Sports and Headline News newsletters and events. Unlimited online access to The Province and 15 news sites with one account. The Province ePaper, an electronic replica of the print edition to view on any device, share and comment on. Daily puzzles and comics, including the New York Times Crossword. Support local journalism. SUBSCRIBE TO UNLOCK MORE ARTICLES Subscribe now to read the latest news in your city and across Canada. Exclusive articles by top sports columnists Patrick Johnston, Ben Kuzma, J.J. Abrams and others. Plus, Canucks Report, Sports and Headline News newsletters and events. Unlimited online access to The Province and 15 news sites with one account. The Province ePaper, an electronic replica of the print edition to view on any device, share and comment on. Daily puzzles and comics, including the New York Times Crossword. Support local journalism. REGISTER / SIGN IN TO UNLOCK MORE ARTICLES Create an account or sign in to continue with your reading experience. Access articles from across Canada with one account. Share your thoughts and join the conversation in the comments. Enjoy additional articles per month. Get email updates from your favourite authors. THIS ARTICLE IS FREE TO READ REGISTER TO UNLOCK. Create an account or sign in to continue with your reading experience. Access articles from across Canada with one account Share your thoughts and join the conversation in the comments Enjoy additional articles per month Get email updates from your favourite authors As of Oct. 14, Eleven Madison Park's menu — seven to nine courses for US$365 ($504) — will include meat and seafood options, including the restaurant's signature lavender-honey glazed duck. An all-vegan menu will still be available. 'I have some anxiety that people are going to say, 'Oh, he's a hypocrite,' but I know that the best way to continue to champion plant-based cooking is to let everyone participate around the table,' Humm told The Times. According to the comments on a post announcing the menu update, his fears were warranted. 'Oh, so the whole 'changing the world with plant-based cuisine' act was only good while it brought headlines and customers?' one Instagram user commented. Another said, 'Claiming inclusivity is the reason when you're charging $400 (per person) is absolutely wild 😂' Essential reading for hockey fans who eat, sleep, Canucks, repeat. By signing up you consent to receive the above newsletter from Postmedia Network Inc. Please try again This advertisement has not loaded yet, but your article continues below. Humm told The Times that fluctuating finances were also a factor. Sparse bookings for private events and a slump in wine sales were challenging. 'It's hard to get 30 people for a corporate dinner to come to a plant-based restaurant.' Eleven Madison Park's announcement coincides with another acclaimed chef deepening his commitment to plant-based food. Once known as a leading rotisserie, chef Alain Passard's Paris restaurant Arpège became the first three-Michelin-starred establishment in France to switch to an entirely plant-based menu on July 21. Alain Passard phased out red meat at his Paris restaurant Arpège 24 years ago to focus on vegetables he grows in his gardens. Photo by Bertrand Guay/AFP via Getty Images Honey from Passard's beehives prevents the restaurant from being vegan. Passard has run the fine-dining destination for nearly 40 years, and it has held three stars since 1996. Once known as a leading rotisserie, he phased out red meat at Arpège 24 years ago and has focused instead on the vegetables he grows in his gardens in the west of France. This advertisement has not loaded yet, but your article continues below. Like Humm, Passard told AFP he's motivated by environmental concerns. But he's driven primarily by the culinary challenge of cooking plant-based food. 'There's light in this cuisine,' Passard said. 'There are taste sensations that I've never experienced anywhere else.' Humm said in a statement announcing Eleven Madison Park's return to meat that he and his team 'felt liberated and cracked open' by the post-pandemic plant-based focus, creating eggless meringues, butter-free mille-feuille, koji stocks and 'land caviar.' Coinciding with the vegan shift, they started the four-acre Magic Farms in Hoosick Falls, New York, in 2021 to supply the restaurant's vegetables. While Eleven Madison Park retained its Michelin stars, Humm's vegan dishes received mixed reviews. 'Some are so obviously standing in for meat or fish that you almost feel sorry for them,' Pete Wells, former restaurant critic for The Times, wrote in 2021. This advertisement has not loaded yet, but your article continues below. Over four vegan years, Humm said they've been paying attention to guests' feedback. 'The all-or-nothing approach was necessary to develop our expertise, but that, too, comes with its own limitations. As a chef, I want to continue to open paths, not close them,' he wrote. 'As I approach my 20th anniversary at EMP, I've decided it's time for change again.' Read More Our website is the place for the latest breaking news, exclusive scoops, longreads and provocative commentary. Please bookmark and sign up for our cookbook and recipe newsletter, Cook This, here. Vancouver Whitecaps News Local News Vancouver Whitecaps Homes
National Post
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- National Post
The world's only three Michelin-starred vegan restaurant is bringing back meat
Chef Daniel Humm made history when he reopened New York City's Eleven Madison Park (EMP) with an entirely meatless menu in 2021. It became the world's first three Michelin-starred vegan restaurant the following year. After making the switch as a ' creative leap and a climate imperative,' Humm announced on Wednesday that he's bringing meat back to the menu, telling The New York Times, 'I didn't realize that we would exclude people.' Article content Article content As of Oct. 14, Eleven Madison Park's menu — seven to nine courses for US$365 ($504) — will include meat and seafood options, including the restaurant's signature lavender-honey glazed duck. An all-vegan menu will still be available. Article content Article content Humm told The Times that fluctuating finances were also a factor. Sparse bookings for private events and a slump in wine sales were challenging. 'It's hard to get 30 people for a corporate dinner to come to a plant-based restaurant.' Article content Article content Article content Honey from Passard's beehives prevents the restaurant from being vegan. Article content Passard has run the fine-dining destination for nearly 40 years, and it has held three stars since 1996. Once known as a leading rotisserie, he phased out red meat at Arpège 24 years ago and has focused instead on the vegetables he grows in his gardens in the west of France. Article content Like Humm, Passard told AFP he's motivated by environmental concerns. But he's driven primarily by the culinary challenge of cooking plant-based food. Article content 'There's light in this cuisine,' Passard said. 'There are taste sensations that I've never experienced anywhere else.' Article content Humm said in a statement announcing Eleven Madison Park's return to meat that he and his team 'felt liberated and cracked open' by the post-pandemic plant-based focus, creating eggless meringues, butter-free mille-feuille, koji stocks and 'land caviar.' Coinciding with the vegan shift, they started the four-acre Magic Farms in Hoosick Falls, New York, in 2021 to supply the restaurant's vegetables.
Vancouver Sun
a day ago
- Vancouver Sun
The world's only three Michelin-starred vegan restaurant is bringing back meat
Chef Daniel Humm made history when he reopened New York City's Eleven Madison Park (EMP) with an entirely meatless menu in 2021. It became the world's first three Michelin-starred vegan restaurant the following year. After making the switch as a ' creative leap and a climate imperative ,' Humm announced on Wednesday that he's bringing meat back to the menu, telling The New York Times , 'I didn't realize that we would exclude people.' As of Oct. 14, Eleven Madison Park's menu — seven to nine courses for US$365 ($504) — will include meat and seafood options, including the restaurant's signature lavender-honey glazed duck. An all-vegan menu will still be available. Discover the best of B.C.'s recipes, restaurants and wine. By signing up you consent to receive the above newsletter from Postmedia Network Inc. A welcome email is on its way. If you don't see it, please check your junk folder. The next issue of West Coast Table will soon be in your inbox. Please try again Interested in more newsletters? Browse here. 'I have some anxiety that people are going to say, 'Oh, he's a hypocrite,' but I know that the best way to continue to champion plant-based cooking is to let everyone participate around the table,' Humm told The Times. According to the comments on a post announcing the menu update, his fears were warranted. 'Oh, so the whole 'changing the world with plant-based cuisine' act was only good while it brought headlines and customers?' one Instagram user commented. Another said, 'Claiming inclusivity is the reason when you're charging $400 (per person) is absolutely wild 😂' Humm told The Times that fluctuating finances were also a factor. Sparse bookings for private events and a slump in wine sales were challenging. 'It's hard to get 30 people for a corporate dinner to come to a plant-based restaurant.' Eleven Madison Park's announcement coincides with another acclaimed chef deepening his commitment to plant-based food. Once known as a leading rotisserie, chef Alain Passard's Paris restaurant Arpège became the first three-Michelin-starred establishment in France to switch to an entirely plant-based menu on July 21. Honey from Passard's beehives prevents the restaurant from being vegan. Passard has run the fine-dining destination for nearly 40 years, and it has held three stars since 1996. Once known as a leading rotisserie, he phased out red meat at Arpège 24 years ago and has focused instead on the vegetables he grows in his gardens in the west of France. Like Humm, Passard told AFP he's motivated by environmental concerns. But he's driven primarily by the culinary challenge of cooking plant-based food. 'There's light in this cuisine,' Passard said. 'There are taste sensations that I've never experienced anywhere else.' Humm said in a statement announcing Eleven Madison Park's return to meat that he and his team 'felt liberated and cracked open' by the post-pandemic plant-based focus, creating eggless meringues, butter-free mille-feuille, koji stocks and 'land caviar.' Coinciding with the vegan shift, they started the four-acre Magic Farms in Hoosick Falls, New York, in 2021 to supply the restaurant's vegetables. While Eleven Madison Park retained its Michelin stars, Humm's vegan dishes received mixed reviews. 'Some are so obviously standing in for meat or fish that you almost feel sorry for them,' Pete Wells, former restaurant critic for The Times, wrote in 2021 . Over four vegan years, Humm said they've been paying attention to guests' feedback. 'The all-or-nothing approach was necessary to develop our expertise, but that, too, comes with its own limitations. As a chef, I want to continue to open paths, not close them,' he wrote. 'As I approach my 20th anniversary at EMP, I've decided it's time for change again.' Our website is the place for the latest breaking news, exclusive scoops, longreads and provocative commentary. Please bookmark and sign up for our cookbook and recipe newsletter, Cook This, here .
